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Pierre Loti Hill (Pierre Loti Tepesi) is a romantic spot with sweeping views over the Golden Horn in Istanbul, Turkey. It’s located in the Eyüp district.
Introduction to Pierre Loti Hill
The hill is named after Pierre Loti, the pseudonym of 19th century French naval officer and writer Julien Viaud (1850-1923). Loti fell in love with Constantinople during his first visit in 1876. He wrote two novels about the city and often spent time atop the hill.
Getting Up the Hill
To get up to the top of the hill, you have two options. One is to take a pleasant walk up through the cemetery, which takes about 15 minutes. The other is to take a short ride on the cable car.
The cable car runs from 8am to 10pm and accepts the Istanbulkart. The queue can be quite long, especially on weekends. I found it’s best to visit on a weekday and go earlier in the day.
Eyüp Cemetery
If you decided to head up on foot, you’ll be walking through the Eyüp Cemetery (Eyüp Mezarlığı). This historic burial ground is one of the largest and oldest Muslim cemeteries in Istanbul. It stretches from the top of Pierre Loti Hill down to the Eyüp Sultan Mosque.
The cemetery became popular because people wanted to be buried near the tomb of Abu Ayyub al-Ansari (d. 674), a companion of the Prophet Muhammad who died of dysentery during the First Arab Siege of Constantinople. It now hosts the graves of several important members of Ottoman and Turkish society, including military leaders, scientists, writers, artists, and business leaders.
Observation Point at Pierre Loti Hill
Once at the top, there’s an observation point with spectacular views of the Golden Horn. You can spot several different landmarks from there.
If you look towards the Bosporus, you can see the Galata Tower and several landmarks in the Old City. Hagia Sophia and the Süleymaniye Mosque are two of the easiest to spot.
Looking down towards the bottom of the hill is the Eyüp Sultan Mosque. A little further up above the dome of the mosque, you can see the Theodosian Walls of Constantinople as well as the Palace of the Porphyrogenitus.
Pierre Loti Café
Also at the top of the hill is Pierre Loti Café (Piyerloti Kahvesi), which has several tables with equally stunning views. If the good tables are full, wait a few minutes and grab one as soon as it empties!
Take a second to pop inside the two rooms operated by the café. You’ll see several old photos and some Pierre Loti memorabilia as well as traditional Ottoman seating and decor.
If you’re looking for something more than just coffee or tea, the road up past the café features several food vendors selling treats such as gözleme, hamburgers, ice cream, döner, and more.
Be Prepared for a Tourist Trap
When I first moved to Istanbul in late 2010, the café was mostly frequented by locals looking to get away from the insanity of the city. Every time I went up, no matter the season, it was easy to get a table and sometimes it was completely empty. There was rarely a long wait for the cable car. Now that foreigners have “discovered” it, things have dramatically changed for the worst.
On a visit in November 2019, we had to wait a half hour to ride up the cable car. At the top, there were almost no locals to be found and every table with a decent view was full. I witnessed one occasion where an older couple was walking towards an empty table, and two younger women ran and sat down before the older couple had a chance. Service was also quite rude. Unfortunately, it’s become a huge tourist trap. The views from Pierre Loti Hill are lovely, but be prepared for disappointment.
(Note: on my most recent visit in June 2022, the service had improved greatly. Many waiters spoke English and were much friendlier. The crowds were still an issue.)
