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The Phanar Greek Orthodox College (Özel Fener Rum Lisesi) stands proudly on a hill in the Fener neighborhood of Istanbul. It’s the world’s oldest functioning Hellenic educational institution.
Introduction to the Phanar Greek Orthodox College
To many, the regal red brick building of the Phanar Greek Orthodox College is known as the Red Castle while others call it the Big Red School. It’s even mistakenly identified by some as the Ecumenical Patriarchate. To Greeks, however, it’s a symbol of the legacy they left on the city and the Ottoman Empire and remains the most prestigious Greek school in the city.
Fener, or Phanar to the Greeks, became the Greek district of Constantinople after 1453. It was here that the wealthiest Greeks built their mansions and businesses in close proximity to the Ecumenical Patriarchate, who founded and administered the school until the establishment of the Turkish Republic in 1923.
Several of the most prominent Phanariotes, many of noble Byzantine lineage, as well as Ecumenical Patriarchs, received their education at the school. It also graduated Ottoman ministers (including Turks) and Wallachian and Moldavian princes, such as historian, writer, philosopher, and musician Dimitrie Cantemir (1673-1923).
The school is still open, but because of a dwindling Greek population due to persecution, deportation, flight, and other factors, there’s only a handful of students and teachers remaining. Despite these issues, the school is still looked upon with prestige and pride by the remaining community and Greeks around the world.
History of the Phanar Greek Orthodox College
The school was founded by Patriarch Gennadios II (c. 1400-c. 1472) on January 6, 1454, just after the Fall of Constantinople. It was seen as a continuation of the Ecumenical Patriarchal School (Οικουμενικής Πατριαρχικής Σχολής) founded in the 4th century by Constantine the Great and the Patriarchal Academy (Πατριαρχικής Ακαδημίας) founded in the 9th century. The Patriarch appointed Matthaios Kamariotis (d. 1490), a scholar from Thessaloniki, as the first director.
The school functioned in various buildings in Fener until 1803, when it relocated to the mansion of Alexandros Mavrokordatos in Xirokrini (today’s Kuruçeşme) and was renamed the Patriarchal School of Xirokrini (Πατριαρχική Σχολή Ξηροκρήνης). It operated there until 1821, when it closed for four years due to the Greek Revolution.
In 1825, the school was officially renamed the Great School of the Nation (Μεγάλη του Γένους Σχολή) and temporarily reopened in Fener. It transferred back to Xirokrini in 1837, and in 1849, it permanently returned to Fener.
A generous donation by Ottoman Greek banker Georgios Zariphis (1810-1884) and others allowed for the construction of the current building. The cornerstone was laid on January 30, 1880, by Patriarch Joachim III (1834-1912) and it was completed in 1883. Classes began on September 12, 1882, under the auspices of the Ecumenical Patriarchete. Since 1923, however, educators must present the full Turkish curriculum, compulsory by law, in addition to Greek language, literature, and religion.
Features of the Building
The architect was Konstantinos Dimadis (d. 1901), who built it on land once owned by Dimitrie Cantemir. The four-story structure is a massive building with very high ceilings and features a dome that functions as an astronomical observatory. It has 3,020 square meters of floor space. The signature red bricks were imported from France. In my opinion, it’s the most beautiful modern secular building in all of Istanbul.
My Visit to the Phanar Greek Orthodox College
Several times in the past, I had walked by the school and had never seen or heard a soul in the yard or anywhere near the entrance. I never thought I would have the chance to visit without special advance permission, but this was my lucky day.
I heard several children screaming and running out as classes finished for the day. As one of them ran outside, he held the door for me as if to invite me inside. I thanked him and walked up the stairs to the grand entrance. After introducing myself to the groundskeeper and then a school official inside, I was allowed to walk around on the ground level to take photos.
I was honored to be able to walk around inside and visit a building that played such an integral role in the history of Ottoman Greeks. I’ll let the rest of the photos speak for themselves:
Lobby
Hallways
Classrooms
Grounds
