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Paşalimanı is a small neighborhood on the Asian side of the Bosphorus in Istanbul. It’s just a five-minute walk north of Üsküdar Square and sits between Üsküdar and Kuzguncuk.
Introduction to Paşalimanı
Paşalimanı, which translates to Pasha’s Port, has very little of interest to tourists. You’ll find a few historic buildings, some seaside mansions (yalılar), and a couple nice parks. The boundaries of the neighborhood aren’t clearly defined.
Nemlizade Tobacco Warehouse
Sitting right on the Bosphorus is the former Nemlizade Tobacco Warehouse (Nemlizade Tütün Deposu). The 7-story building was constructed between 1923 and 1925 on the site of a mansion belonging to Grand Vizier Hüseyin Avni Pasha.
The mansion had fallen into ruin and was used as a tobacco warehouse but was demolished and replaced with the current structure. It’s now owned by Ciner Group and is the tallest historical building on the Bosphorus.
Byzantine Cistern
Across the street is a ruined Byzantine cistern. Nothing is known about its construction date or other details.
Beylik Flour Mill
The Beylik Flour Mill (Beylik Un Değirmeni) is across the street to the north. It was founded in 1858 and had 5 floors. The building was repaired in 1910 and expanded to increase its capacity. There were 24 millstones in its heyday.
The building seems to have undergone some sort of restoration since my earlier visits, including a facelift and the addition of glass windows.
Istanbul State Theatre
Next door is a large building that has served as the Istanbul State Theatre (İstanbul Devlet Tiyatrosu) since 2009. It was built by Selim III between 1798 and 99 as a grain warehouse and later became a tobacco warehouse for many years. The building fell into ruin but was restored and served as a museum for a short time.
The Istanbul State Theatre was established in 1978 and performed its first play on April 7, 1979, at the old Atatürk Cultural Center at Taksim Square. It has since grown to become one of Turkey’s largest theatrical institutions, producing large and small-scale productions including Shakespeare, modern works, Greek tragedies, children’s plays, Turkish plays, and adaptations.
Hüseyin Avni Pasha Fountain
The Hüseyin Avni Pasha Fountain (Hüseyin Avni Paşa Çeşmesi) is a few steps past the theatre. It was built in 1874 and features wings with four long troughs on each side of the main fountain. A 5-line inscription is written under the eaves. Although the fountain is mostly intact, the water no longer flows. It was repaired in 1997.
Paşalimanı Park
Paşalimanı Park (Paşalimanı Parkı) is across from the fountain. It’s a nice pleasant green space right along the Bosphorus with a small harbor and a city-run café.
Arapzâde Atâullah Efendi Mansion
A few steps north of the park is the Arapzâde Atâullah Efendi Mansion (Arapzâde Atâullah Efendi Yalısı). It was built by Arapzâde Atâullah Efendi (1719-1785), who became Sheikh al-Islam on June 22, 1785, and died two months later. His son Sheikh al-Islam Mehmed Arif Efendi (1740-1826) and grandson Mehmed Sadullah Efendi (d. 1843) also lived there. It has three floors, with three windows on the second floor. The ground floor windows are a modern alteration.
Baştımar Mansion
The Baştımar Mansion (Baştımar Yalısı) is next door. It was built by the Baştımar family, who are descendants of Ottoman war hero Gazi Edhem Pasha (1844-1909). The mansion has two wooden upper floors resting on a ground floor made of stone and masonry. It’s on a square plan and has wide eaves on the roof to protect from heat and humidity. The construction date is unknown.
Fethi Pasha Grove
The Fethi Pasha Grove (Fethi Paşa Korusu) dominates the hill above Paşalimanı. It’s named for Ahmed Fethi Pasha (1801-1858), who once owned the property. It changed hands many times after his death. After several years of neglect, the grove was cleaned up and opened to the public as a park run by the city.
After winding your way up the path from the entrance, you’ll find the Fethi Pasha Mansions (Fethi Paşa Köşkleri). They were built by Ahmed Fethi Pasha in the middle of the 19th century and now serve as restaurants under the Fethi Pasha Social Facilities (Fethi Paşa Sosyal Tesisleri). Both buildings have a masonry first floor with two wooden upper floors.
The White Mansion (Beyaz Köşk), which served as the harem of the complex, features a full-service restaurant. Writer Cemil Meriç (1916-1987) lived there from 1947 to 1960.
Nearby is the Claret Mansion (Bordo Köşk), which served as the selamlık. It has a more casual cafeteria-style restaurant with drinks and snacks.
If you continue walking up the road, you’ll find a few nice shaded paths and trail. The views of the Bosphorus are amazing.
St. John Holy Spring
Finally, next to the lower entrance to the Fethi Pasha Grove you’ll find the St. John Holy Spring (Αγίασμα Αγίου Ιωάννη / Ayios İoanis Ayazması), a Greek Orthodox site. I can’t find any information about it. It was covered with a tarp the last time I walked by.
