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Kuzguncuk is one of my favorite places to spend time in Istanbul. It’s a small village on the Asian side of the Bosphorus between Paşalimanı and Beylerbeyi.
Introduction to Kuzguncuk
During the Byzantine period, Kuzguncuk was known as Chrysokeramos (Χρυσοκέραμος) after a church with a gilded roof. In Turkish, the name means “little raven” or “barred window of a prison door”. It may derive from Kuzgun Baba, a holy man who lived in the area during the reign of Mehmed II.
Kuzguncuk (Κουσκουντζούκ in Greek) was a mostly non-Muslim neighborhood during the Ottoman period. In fact, there was no mosque until 1952. In the 15th century, it became the first Jewish settlement on the Asian side of the city, and Armenians arrived in the 18th century. There was also a small Greek community. Most of the non-Muslim residents left after the 1955 Istanbul pogrom and there very few living there today.
Today, Kuzguncuk is a popular getaway for both locals and tourists. It’s only a few minutes away from the busy transport hub of Üsküdar, yet it’s small enough to feel like you’re in a completely different world. It’s a fantastic place to wander through the streets lined with colorful Ottoman homes.
Personally, I always enjoy sitting outside at one of the cafés, while some people go there to look for antiques. The majority of the action is along İcadiye Street.
Getting to Kuzguncuk
The easiest way to get to Kuzguncuk is through Üsküdar. Take a ferry to Üsküdar and go to the Üsküdar Cami Önü stop (in front of the mosque across the street from the ferry terminal). Hop on a bus with the number 15. Kuzguncuk is the third stop. You can also take a dolmuş going to Beykoz and ask the driver to let you out at Kuzguncuk. There’s a ferry service on the Istanbul public ferry lines (İstanbul Şehir Hatları) but it isn’t frequent or convenient.
Kuzguncuk Ferry Terminal
The first Kuzguncuk Ferry Terminal (Kuzguncuk Vapur İskelesi) was wooden and was replaced by Kirkor Kalfa in 1889. The current building was constructed by Nafilyan in 1913 and is a two-story masonry structure. It was completely renovated in 2011. The pier, which is one of the most difficult to approach due to the strong current of the Bosphorus, is 14.6 meters long and 7.1 meters deep. It stands 1.5 meters above the water level. A café operates on the ground floor.
Kuzguncuk Pier Park
Next to the bus stop and ferry terminal you’ll find Kuzguncuk Pier Park (Kuzguncuk İskele Parkı). From there you’ll be treated to wonderful views of the European side of the city and the Bosphorus Bridge.
Surp Krikor Lusavoriç Armenian Church
Surp Krikor Lusavoriç Armenian Church (Surp Krikor Lusavoriç Ermeni Kilisesi) sits across the street from the Kuzguncuk ferry terminal. It was originally a wooden building designed by Ohannes Amira Serverian that opened on May 11, 1835. It was replaced by the current church, which opened in 1861 and was funded by Bedros Agha Shaldjian. The church is on a cross plan and is topped by a dome. A two-story bell tower is just behind the apse.
Kuzguncuk Mosque
The Kuzguncuk Mosque (Kuzguncuk Camii) is located on the grounds of the Armenian church. It was built in 1952 with funds donated by the Armenian community.
Bet Yaakov Synagogue
The Bet Yaakov Synagogue (Bet Yaakov Sinagogu) is right outside of the bus stop. It was built in 1878 but may have existed as early as 1862. It’s still active every Saturday.
Greek Orthodox Church of St. George
The synagogue is located right next to the small Greek Orthodox Church of St. George (Ἑλληνορθόδοξη Ἑκκλησία Αγίου Γεωργίου / Ayios Yeorgios Rum Ortodox Kilisesi). According to the inscription, it was completely renovated in 1821.
Greek Orthodox Church of St. Panteleimon
The larger Greek Orthodox Church of St. Panteleimon (Άγιος Παντελεήμωνας Ἑλληνορθόδοξη Ἑκκλησία / Ayios Panteleimon Rum Ortodoks Kilisesi) sits a few blocks down the road. The church opened in 1831 but burned down in 1872. It was rebuilt by architect Nikola Ziko between 1890 and 1892.
The church is in the form of a Greek cross and is topped by a dome supported by four pillars. The bell tower at the entrance was built in 1911 by Andon Hüdaverdioğlu. There’s a holy spring on the street next to the church.
Kuzguncuk Greek Orthodox Cemetery
Nearby is the Kuzguncuk Greek Orthodox Cemetery (Kuzguncuk Rum Ortodoks Kabristani), which contains the burials of some prominent Ottoman Greeks.
Once through the gates, you can ask the caretaker to enter. Follow the short path a few steps uphill and you’ll find several graves. I noticed a few tombstones written with Karamanli Turkish, which is the Turkish language written in Greek script.
Grave of Marko Pasha
The most important grave belongs to Markos Apostolidis (1824-1888), more commonly known as Marko Pasha. He was a Greek doctor beloved by Ottomans of all ethnic backgrounds. In 1861, during the reign of Abdülaziz, he rose to the rank of the Sultan’s Chief Physician.
Marko Pasha was a popular member of the Senate during the reign of Sultan Abdülhamid II. He became famous for taking time to listen to people’s problems. In fact, the phrase “Go tell your problems to Marko Pasha” was a common expression. On June 11, 1868, he was one of the founders of the Turkish Red Crescent and became its first president.
Long after his death, his legacy lived on. In the 1940s, author Aziz Nesin (1915-1995) named his magazine Marko Paşa with the goal of highlighting the problems of everyday people.
Bet Nissim Synagogue
The Bet Nissim Synagogue (Bet Nissim Sinagogu) is a few blocks further south. It was built in the 1840s but the Torah ark dates back to the end of the 18th century. The synagogue is available to visit via appointment only.
Fethi Pasha Mansion
Just south of the village is the Fethi Pasha Mansion (Fethi Paşa Yalısı), which is best seen from the Bosphorus. It was built by Ahmed Fethi Pasha (1801-1858), an Ottoman marshal and ambassador. In 1846, he created the Archaeological Artifacts Collection (Mecma-i Asar-ı Atika) and the Ancient Weapons Collection (Mecma-i Esliha-i Atika), at Hagia Eirine. It became the first official Ottoman museum in 1869.
Also known as the Pink Mansion (Pembe Yalı), the home is separated into two parts, a harem and selamlık. It was built from wood on a brick foundation. There are 16 rooms and two large halls spread over two stories. Fethi Pasha decorated his home with the rarest of furnishings as well as crystal and fountains. Sultan Abdülmecid I was so impressed with the furnishings, he commissioned Fethi Pasha to decorate Dolmabahçe Palace. A harem room and a butler’s room were destroyed by fire in 1922, but the rest of the mansion survives in good condition.
Where to Eat in Kuzguncuk
In all my visits to Kuzguncuk, I’ve only stopped into one place.
Aliki Cafe
Aliki Cafe is along İcadiye Street with a garden in the back facing Üryanizade Street. I enjoyed an iced latte and strawberry lemonade. Service is friendly and the atmosphere is relaxed. They also have a full menu with breakfasts, croissants, crepes, pizzas, and more.
