Last updated on .
Kuruçeşme is a pleasant neighborhood on the European side of the Bosporus in Istanbul, Turkey. It’s located in the Beşiktaş district between Ortaköy and Arnavutköy.
Introduction to Kuruçeşme
Kuruçeşme has been settled since the Roman period. The name translates to “dry fountain” and refers to a fountain at a mosque built by Osman Efendi. Sources state the mosque was either built in the 15th century during the reign of Mehmed the Conqueror or in 1740.
Today, Kuruçeşme has a handful of great restaurants making it a popular place to be at night. There are also plenty of cafés, upscale shops, and a couple exotic car dealerships.
Getting to Kuruçeşme
To get to Kuruçeşme, you can take the 40T bus from the Park Otel stop in Gümüşsuyu near Taksim Square; the 22 or 40T from Kabataş; or the 22, 22RE, 40, 40T, or BŞK5 from Beşiktaş. The nearest ferry terminals are at Ortaköy and Arnavutköy, which both have service on the City Ferry Lines (Şehir Hatları).
Kuruçeşme Arena
Entering the neighborhood from Ortaköy, the first thing you’ll likely notice is Kuruçeşme Arena. This open-air concert venue first opened on July 19, 2005, on land once used as a parking lot. The land was purchased by a development company in 2012 and was slated to be demolished to build a hotel. The plans never materialized and the area reopened in 2021. It’s also used as an outdoor cinema and can seat up to 7,000 depending on the event.
Unknown Bosporus Mansions
There are two impressive three-story mansions sitting side-by-side along the Bosporus in Kuruçeşme. If anyone has information about them I’d appreciate it.
Muhsinzade Mehmet Paşa Yalısı
Just north of the two mansions is the Muhsinzade Mehmed Pasha Mansion (Muhsinzade Mehmet Paşa Yalısı). It was built in the 18th century by Muhsinzade Mehmed Pasha (1704-1774), who served twice as Grand Vizier under Sultan Mustafa III. The mansion was occupied by the descendants of his daughter Rükiye until 1929. After that, it was used as a coal and sand warehouse. Many parts of the property were demolished during construction of the coastal road. In the 1980s, 22 heirs of the family came together and sold the property to a developer. The mansion was restored and became Hotel Les Ottomans, one of the most luxurious hotels in Istanbul.
Kuruçeşme Park
Along the shore of the Bosporus in the heart of the neighborhood is Kuruçeşme Park (Kuruçeşme Parkı). It’s a relaxing place to spend some time, with benches, a playground, and fantastic views of the Bosporus. There are often beautiful yachts moored along the park, and some of them are available for hire.
Galatasaray Island
In the middle of the Bosporus, just 165 meters (541 feet) offshore from the park, is Galatasaray Island (Galatasaray Adası). It’s owned by the Galatasaray Sports Club.
The island was property of the Ottoman dynasty until Sultan Abdülaziz granted it to Ottoman Armenian architect Sarkis Balyan (1835-1899) in 1872. Balyan built a three-story mansion and used the island as his private residence. After World War I, his heirs rented out the island to a ferry company and it later became a coal depot.
Galatasaray purchased the island in 1957 and built sports facilities on it. Social facilities opened in 1980 and operated until March 2017. It reopened on July 27, 2022. The island contains three restaurants, a nightclub, a bar, an Olympic-sized swimming pool, and event space.
Köprülü Hemşiresi Fountain
Across the street from the center of the park is the Köprülü Hemşiresi Fountain (Köprülü Hemşiresi Çeşmesi). It was built in 1681.
Holy Cross Armenian Church
Across from the southern end of the park is Kırbaç Street. If you follow it inland, there are two churches. First, on the lefthand side is Holy Cross Armenian Church (Surp Haç Ermeni Kilisesi). It was built in 1681 and originally named Surp Nışan. The bell tower dates back to 1858.
St. Demetrios Greek Orthodox Church
At the end of the road is St. Demetrios Greek Orthodox Church (Ἅγιος Δημήτριος Ξηροκρήνης / Ayios Dimitrios Rum Ortodoks Kilisesi), which dates back to the middle of the 15th century.
The current church was originally built in 1798. It was rebuilt in 1832 and again in 1875. The architect was named Saniotis. Some beautiful wooden structures, including the throne, pulpit, and iconostasis, are in the nave.
A chapel attached to the church contains a holy spring which is visited by local Christians and Muslims alike. The water is said to have healing properties.
A tunnel quarried 40 meters into the rock leads close to the source. It can be quite slippery and claustrophobic walking through the tunnel, but it’s an interesting experience.
Ali Vafi Mansion
Near the north end of Kuruçeşme Park is the Ali Vafi Mansion (Ali Vafi Köşkü). It was built by an Armenian banker but purchased by Ali Vafi of Crete in 1915. Part of it was damaged by fire in the 1980s and rebuilt according to its original design. The building is also known as the Ayvazpaşazade Mansion (Ayvazpaşazade Köşkü) or Memduh Pasha Mansion (Memduh Paşa Köşkü).
Seaside Mansions
Nearby, there are a few beautiful Ottoman seaside mansions (yalılar). These mansions used to sit right up against the shore of the Bosporus, but the main road now runs along them on both sides. Some of the mansions definitely needed work when we walked by.
St. John Greek Orthodox Church
Finally, across the street from the mansions is the St. John Greek Orthodox Church (Ἁγίου Ἰωάννου Προδρόμου Ξηροκρήνης / Ayios Yani Rum Ortodoks Kilisesi). I haven’t been able to find any information about it.
Where to Eat in Kuruçeşme
The neighborhood of Kuruçeşme has a few great restaurants worth visiting, especially if you’re looking to splurge a bit.
Mavi Balık
We took a group of 23 to Mavi Balık for dinner one night. This popular Kuruçeşme fish restaurant came highly recommended by several friends living in the city. Although it can be quite expensive for Istanbul, both food and service are excellent.
We were given a wonderful table next to the windows with a great view of the Bosporus. Once everyone was seated, the waiters began distributing the cold and hot starters included in our fixed menu.
For the main course, everyone had grilled fish. Dessert was a selection of traditional Turkish sweets along with fresh fruit.
Aşşk Kahve
Aşşk Kahve is located just past Mavi Balık down a short alley. It’s easy to miss if you aren’t paying attention. This restaurant is set in a romantic garden along the Bosporus and is popular in the summer.
They have a decent menu with selections of Turkish food, fish, burgers, salads, flatbreads, and other items. I had a burger while Marisol had the teriyaki salmon. Both meals were delicious.
