Last updated on .

Karaköy is an important neighborhood in the Beyoğlu district of Istanbul. It’s a busy transportation and tourist hub with a handful of interesting minor attractions and some good restaurants.

Karaköy, Istanbul, Turkey
Karaköy

 

Intro to Karaköy

When I lived in Istanbul from 2010 to the end of 2013, Karaköy was one of those areas I used to avoid. Other than running to catch a ferry, I had no reason to spend time there. It was a dirty, seedy port area with nothing of interest to tourists unless they were looking to buy baklava at Karaköy Güllüoğlu. Fast forward to one of my first trips back in 2018, I was shocked to see the transformation from seedy port area to one of Istanbul’s trendiest neighborhoods.

Umbrellas covering a street in Karaköy, Istanbul, Turkey
Umbrellas covering a street

Nowadays, I highly recommend visiting Karaköy. You’ll enjoy spending some time chatting with friends at a café or trying one of the restaurants. The best areas to hang out are along Mumhane Street or behind the Kılıç Ali Pasha Mosque on Kılıç Ali Pasha Mescidi Street. For architecture and history, hit Karaköy Square and Bankalar Caddesi.

A revamped street in Karaköy, Istanbul, Turkey
A revamped street in Karaköy

In this post, I’ll start this exploration of Karaköy at Karaköy Square, which is the heart of the neighborhood and a place almost every visitor to Istanbul will likely pass through at least once. From there, I’ll continue along the waterfront and into the eastern half of the neighborhood, then back around to Karaköy Square via Kemeraltı Street. From there, I’ll cross the square to cover the western half of the neighborhood. I’ve covered Bankalar Caddesi in another post.

A lively street in Karaköy, Istanbul, Turkey
A lively street in Karaköy


 

Boundaries of Karaköy

Depending on the source, you’ll find different boundaries for Karaköy. The socially accepted boundaries are the Atatürk Bridge to the west, Galataport to the east, Bankalar and Kemeraltı Streets to the north, and the shoreline to the south. Some sources consider Karaköy to be the square and everything east while the western half is called Perşembe Pazarı, Arapcami, or Azapkapı. For this post, I’ll use the socially accepted boundaries mentioned above.

 

Getting to Karaköy

As one of the busiest transportation hubs in Istanbul, Karaköy is an easy place to reach. You can take the T1 tram from Kabataş or Sultanahmet or take a leisurely stroll across the Galata Bridge from Eminönü. There are ferry terminals on either side of the Galata Bridge, with Turyol ferries leaving from the Golden Horn side and City Lines ferries from the Bosporus side. In addition, you can take Tünel down from Istiklal Street if you don’t want to walk down through Galata.

Ferry docked at Karaköy Pier in Istanbul, Turkey
Ferry docked at Karaköy Pier
Turyol ferry terminal
Turyol ferry terminal

 

Karaköy Square

Karaköy Square (Karaköy Meydanı) is a bustling area linking the Galata Bridge to the rest of Beyoğlu. The square is always busy and full of traffic.

Karaköy Square in Karaköy, Istanbul, Turkey
Karaköy Square

Karaköy Square contains a stop on the T1 tram line running from Kabataş to Bağcılar and ferry terminals on either side of the Galata Bridge. Galata is up the hill. An underground passage full of shops allows pedestrians to safely connect to the tram, the shoreline, and Tünel station.

Karaköy Square in Karaköy, Istanbul, Turkey
Karaköy Square
Underground passage on Karaköy Square
Underground passage
İETT Building and Tünel station
İETT Building and Tünel station


 

Development of Karaköy Square

Karaköy Square was developed in 1958. While there are a few notable historic buildings on the square today, several other beautiful buildings did not survive.

Buildings lost to development
Buildings lost to development – courtesy of lcivelekoglu.blogspot.com

Gone are Mehmet Ali Pasha Han, the Wagon-Lits Cook Building, Haviar Han, Borsa Han, Tokatlı Brewery (Tokatlı Birahanesi), and the Merzifonlu Kara Mustafa Pasha Mosque (Merzifonlu Kara Mustafa Paşa Camii), among others. The Aziziye Police Station (Aziziye Karakolu) was another stunning building demolished much earlier in 1910. You can see photos of these old buildings on lcivelekoglu.blogspot.com (text in Turkish).

Karaköy Square in 1947
Karaköy Square in 1947 – courtesy of lcivelekoglu.blogspot.com
Karaköy Square in the late 19th century
Karaköy Square in the late 19th century – courtesy of lcivelekoglu.blogspot.com

A more recent casualty is the old outdoor fish market that once sat just west of the Galata Bridge (although an indoor fish market still exists nearby).

Old fish market
Old fish market

 

Karaköy Palace

Among the surviving buildings, the massive building on the east side of the square is Karaköy Palace (Karaköy Palas), which was designed by Giulio Mongeri (1873-1951), an Italian born in Constantinople. It was completed in 1910 and has three separate entrances.

Karaköy Palace on Karaköy Square in Karaköy, Istanbul, Turkey
Karaköy Palace
Karaköy Palace on Karaköy Square in Karaköy, Istanbul, Turkey
Karaköy Palace
Giulio Mongeri's name on Karaköy Palace
Giulio Mongeri’s name on the building

The building contains several Byzantine elements, such as porphyry panels and columns as well as semicircular arches. You can also see Byzantine influence around the entrances.

Karaköy Palace on Karaköy Square in Karaköy, Istanbul, Turkey
Karaköy Palace
Entrance to Karaköy Palace on Karaköy Square in Karaköy, Istanbul, Turkey
Entrance

 

Karaköy Yeni Han

Just south of Karaköy Palace is Karaköy Yeni Han. It was built in 1893 and holds a branch of Akbank. There’s an inscription in French and Ottoman Turkish above the entrance. Unfortunately, I can’t find much more information about it.

Karaköy Yeni Han on Karaköy Square in Karaköy, Istanbul, Turkey
Karaköy Yeni Han
Inscription on Karaköy Yeni Han on Karaköy Square in Karaköy, Istanbul, Turkey
Inscription

 

Customs Directorate Building

Directly behind Karaköy Yeni Han is the old Customs Directorate Building (Gümrük Müdürlüğü Binası). It was built in 1903 and designed by Ottoman Greek architect Ioannis Karagiannis, whose signature is on the building. The Customs Directorate Building was restored over the period of about a year and reopened as the Karaköy Gümrük Restaurant in 2014.

Customs Directorate Building
Customs Directorate Building
Signature of Ioannis Karagiannis on the Customs Directorate Building
Signature of Ioannis Karagiannis


 

Ziraat Bank Building

Just east of the Galata Bridge where Rıhtım Street begins is the Ziraat Bank Building. It was originally built by the Austrians as the Bank of Vienna between 1910 and 1912. It was also used as the Banque Française des Pays d’Orient and the Tobacco Regime (Tütün Rejisi) before becoming property of Ziraat Bank in 1944.

Ziraat Bank Building in November 2010 in Karaköy, Istanbul, Turkey
Ziraat Bank Building
Ziraat Bank Building in November 2022
Ziraat Bank Building in November 2022

The building is five stories high and a penthouse was added in 1975. Two statues adorn the balcony. The male statue represents industry while the female statue represents commerce. The building was under renovation during my last few visits to Istanbul. I look forward to seeing the results.

Statue representing commerce on the Ziraat Bank Building
Statue representing commerce
Ornamental stonework on the Ziraat Bank Building
Ornamental stonework

 

Nordstern Han

On the west side of the square across from the Tünel station is Nordstern Han (Nordstern Hanı). It was built in 1889 by Raphael Solomon Kamondo as a Yahudhane to house Jewish families. The original building was constructed in 1810, demolished in 1857 and rebuilt in 1862. In 1928, it was purchased by Nordstern, a German insurance company.

Nordstern Han on Karaköy Square in Istanbul, Turkey
Nordstern Han
Nordstern Han
Nordstern Han

The architect of the building is unknown but it’s often mistakenly attributed to Giulio Mongeri. He would have been only 16 at the time of its completion. The building sticks out for its Venetian-style design. The original branch of Baylan Pastanesi was located there until the 1990s. Today, Nordstern Han serves as the Nordstern Hotel.

Windows on Nordstern Han on Karaköy Square in Istanbul, Turkey
Windows

 

Zülfaris Synagogue

Hidden down an alley just off the west side of Karaköy Square is the Zülfaris Synagogue (Zülfaris Sinagogu). A synagogue has stood on the site since 1671. The current building opened on October 31, 1823. It was renovated in 1890 with funds from the Kamondo family. The synagogue closed permanently in 1983 because no more Jews lived in the area.

Zülfaris Synagogue in Karaköy, Istanbul, Turkey
Zülfaris Synagogue
The back of the Zülfaris Synagogue from Karaköy Square in Karaköy, Istanbul, Turkey
The back of the Zülfaris Synagogue from Karaköy Square

From 2001 to September 20, 2015, it hosted the Quincentennial Foundation Museum of Turkish Jews. I visited this location with a group of students in March 2012. The museum moved to the Neve Shalom Synagogue on January 14, 2016.

Zülfaris Synagogue in Karaköy, Istanbul, Turkey
Zülfaris Synagogue
Former exhibit of the Museum of Turkish Jews at the Zülfaris Synagogue
Former exhibit of the Museum of Turkish Jews


 

Eastern Half of Karaköy

The eastern half of Karakôy is the part that has undergone the incredible transformation I mentioned earlier. It’s now an important entertainment zone and is still undergoing changes.

 

Karaköy Quay

Karaköy Quay (Karaköy Rıhtım) is a pedestrianized area along the waterfront. It follows Rıhtım Street (Rıhtım Caddesi) and contains several restaurants and some historic buildings. It also holds one of the ferry terminals in the area.

Karaköy Quay in Karaköy, Istanbul, Turkey
Karaköy Quay

Rıhtım Street in Karaköy, Istanbul, Turkey
Rıhtım Street
Rıhtım Street
Rıhtım Street

Karaköy Quay is a great place to stroll and enjoy views of the old city across the water. You can spot Topkapi Palace and Hagia Sophia and look all the way across the Bosporus to the Asian side.

Looking across to the old city from from Karaköy, Istanbul, Turkey
Looking across to the old city
Topkapi Palace
Topkapi Palace
Hagia Sophia
Hagia Sophia
Asian side
Asian side

There are often people fishing on both sides of Karaköy Pier, where large city-run ferries pick up and drop off passengers heading to Üsküdar, Kadıköy, and up the Golden Horn.

Fishing along Karaköy Quay in Istanbul, Turkey
Fishing along Karaköy Quay

Across from Karaköy Pier is an attractive historic building that I can’t seem to find any information about. I’ll keep searching and add information here if I find it.

Interesting building
Interesting building

 

Istanbul Port Authority

Two buildings down is the Istanbul Port Authority (İstanbul Liman Başkanlığı). It oversees the nearby Port of Istanbul, where large cruise ships dock. The port has been redeveloped as Galataport, a cruise ship terminal that began to open in August 2021.

Istanbul Port Authority in Karaköy, Istanbul, Turkey
Istanbul Port Authority


 

Ömer Abed Han

Walking a block inland along Kemankeş Street is Ömer Abed Han. It was built in 1909 by Ottoman French architect Alexander Vallaury (1850-1921) for Arap Izzet Pasha, a clerk of Sultan Abdülhamid II.

Ömer Abed Han in Karaköy, Istanbul, Turkey
Ömer Abed Han
Ömer Abed Han in Karaköy, Istanbul, Turkey
Ömer Abed Han
Alexander Vallaury's signature on the Ömer Abed Han
Alexander Vallaury’s signature

There are two entrances to the building, although only the western entrance off Halil Paşa Street is used today. The building consists of three blocks with a central covered courtyard and is quite an interesting place to explore.

Ottoman inscription on the Ömer Abed Han
Ottoman inscription
Ornamental stonework on Ömer Abed Han
Ornamental stonework
Ömer Abed Han in Karaköy, Istanbul, Turkey
Ömer Abed Han

 

Underground Mosque

Continuing along Kemankeş Street is the Underground Mosque (Yeraltı Camii). Although it’s off the tourist radar, it’s one of the most intriguing mosques in Istanbul. It’s located in the cellar of a former Byzantine tower. The tower once held one end of the enormous chain that the Byzantines used to block ships from entering the Golden Horn. After Ottoman conquest, the cellar was used as ammunition storage.

Underground Mosque in Karaköy, Istanbul, Turkey
Underground Mosque
Underground Mosque
Underground Mosque

In 1640, the bodies of three men, Süfyân bin Uyeyne, Amr bin As, and Vehb bin Hüşeyre, were discovered inside the cellar. It’s believed they were Arab soldiers who were captured and imprisoned in the cellar during the failed siege on Constantinople in the 7th century. Supposedly the location of their bodies was revealed to a Nakşibendi dervish in a dream. The mosque itself was built between 1753 and 1756 by Grand Vizier Köse Bahir Mustafa Pasha (d. 1765).

Underground Mosque in Karaköy, Istanbul, Turkey
Underground Mosque
Tomb of Süfyân bin Uyeyne in the Underground Mosque
Tomb of Süfyân bin Uyeyne
Tombs of Amr bin As and Vehb bin Hüşeyre in the Underground Mosque
Tombs of Amr bin As and Vehb bin Hüşeyre

 

Kemankeş Karamustafa Pasha Mosque

At the next corner, Kemankeş Street opens up to a small plaza. If you turn left, you’ll come to the Kemankeş Karamustafa Pasha Mosque (Kemankeş Karamustafa Paşa Camii). The mosque was founded in 1643 and rebuilt in 1766. It sits on the site of the San Antonio Church, which was built by the Genoese and dates back to the 14th century. The church was confiscated by Ottomans in 1606 and the mosque was built atop the foundations.

Kemankeş Karamustafa Pasha Mosque in Karaköy, Istanbul, Turkey
Kemankeş Karamustafa Pasha Mosque

 

Reisülküttab Ismail Efendi Fountain

Next to the entrance of the Kemankeş Karamustafa Pasha Mosque is the Reisülküttab Ismail Efendi Fountain (Reisülküttab İsmail Efendi Çeşmesi). It dates back to 1732 and sits beneath the mosque’s former primary school. The structure looks very much like the Genoese buildings in Galata, although I can’t verify its origins. If so, perhaps it was part of the original church complex.

Reisülküttab Ismail Efendi Fountain
Reisülküttab Ismail Efendi Fountain


 

Çeçeyan Han

Continuing around the corner along Gümrük Street back towards Karaköy Square is Çeçeyan Han, also spelled Tchetcheyan Han. It’s an Ottoman Armenian building constructed in 1890. It contains Armenian script above the entrance.

Çeçeyan Han
Çeçeyan Han
Entrance to Çeçeyan Han
Entrance
Inscription on Çeçeyan Han in Karaköy, Istanbul, Turkey
Inscription

 

Russian Orthodox Churches

While most of them are hardly noticeable, the eastern half of Karaköy is home to seven churches. Of these, four are Russian Orthodox churches. They’re all located within two blocks of each other, sitting atop buildings along Hoca Tahsin Street and Mumhane Street. They’re dedicated to St. Andrew, St. Panteleimon, Prophet Elijah, and the Holy Trinity.

The churches were built on the rooftops of hostels between 1880 and 1890 and served Russian pilgrims on their way to Jerusalem or Mount Athos in Greece. I was only able to spot St. Andrew, which has a green dome visible from street level. The rest are displayed on the map above.

Dome of St. Andrew Russian Orthodox Church in Karaköy, Istanbul, Turkey
Dome of St. Andrew Russian Orthodox Church

 

Turkish Orthodox Churches

The other three churches are the most enigmatic churches in Istanbul, belonging to the Turkish Orthodox Church. On March 5, 1924, the community of the Panagia Kaffatiani Church (see below) broke away from the Ecumenical Patriarchate of Constantinople. They declared themselves followers of the Turkish Orthodox Church, which was founded in Kayseri on September 15, 1922, by a Greek Orthodox priest, Pavlos Karahisarithis (1884-1968). He had met Mustafa Kemal Atatürk (1881-1938) and became a strong supporter of his ideals. The breakaway Turkish church was supported by other Turkish-speaking Greek Orthodox priests from Anatolia who genuinely wanted to remain both Orthodox Christians and Turkish citizens.

In 1923, Karahisarithis moved to Istanbul, changed his name to Papa Eftim I, and was excommunicated by the Ecumenical Patriarch. Most of his supporters ended up being deported during the 1923 population exchange between Greece and Turkey. There are only a handful of followers today. Papa Eftim I and his descendants are buried in the Greek Orthodox Cemetery in Şişli.

 

Meryem Ana Turkish Orthodox Church

The most important is Meryem Ana Turkish Orthodox Church (Meryem Ana Türk Ortodoks Kilisesi), which is the seat of the Turkish Orthodox Patriarchate.

Entrance to the Meryem Ana Turkish Orthodox Church
Entrance
Courtyard of the Meryem Ana Turkish Orthodox Church
Courtyard
Burials in the courtyard of the Meryem Ana Turkish Orthodox Church
Burials in the courtyard

The church was originally built as the Panagia Kaffatiani Church in 1583 by Tryfon Korobeinikov. It was founded by Orthodox Christians from the Crimean city of Kaffa (now Feodosia). The church burned down on April 25, 1696, and was rebuilt and opened for worship on September 14, 1698. It burned down again in 1731 and was rebuilt by a decree of the Sultan, reopening for worship on October 1, 1734. The church fell into ruin and was restored in 1840.

Narthex of the Meryem Ana Turkish Orthodox Church in Karaköy, Istanbul, Turkey
Narthex
Narthex of the Meryem Ana Turkish Orthodox Church in Karaköy, Istanbul, Turkey
Narthex

Although there’s no staff on hand, the courtyard of the church is often open to visitors. It’s possible to enter the narthex and peek inside. My apologies for the terrible photo below.

Nave of the Meryem Ana Turkish Orthodox Church
Nave

 

Aziz Nikola Turkish Orthodox Church

A few steps to the west is Aziz Nikola Turkish Orthodox Church (Aziz Nikola Türk Ortodoks Kilisesi). It was built in the late 16th century by Tryfon Korobeinikov and rebuilt in 1804. It was seized from the Ecumenical Patriarchate of Constantinople in 1965. Much of the church was destroyed by fire in 2003, leaving it redundant.

Aziz Nikola Turkish Orthodox Church
Aziz Nikola Turkish Orthodox Church
Entrance to Aziz Nikola Turkish Orthodox Church
Entrance

 

Aziz Yahya Turkish Orthodox Church

Near Kemeraltı Street is Aziz Yahya Turkish Orthodox Church (Aziz Yahya Türk Ortodoks Kilisesi). It was also built by Tryfon Korobeinikov in the late 16th century. It burned down in 1696 and was rebuilt in 1698. The church was reconstructed in 1836 and again in 1853 by architects Matzini and Stamatis Falieros with the permission of Sultan Abdülmecid I. It was seized from the Ecumenical Patriarchate of Constantinople in 1965 and leased to the Assyrian Church of the East in the 1990s.

Aziz Yahya Turkish Orthodox Church
Aziz Yahya Turkish Orthodox Church
Entrance to Aziz Yahya Turkish Orthodox Church
Entrance


 

Interesting Building

Back towards the water along Kemankeş Street is an interesting building that caught my eye. It’s about a block and a half east of the former Karaköy Güllüoğlu location. I can’t find any information about it, but the tiles decorating the exterior are worth stopping to see.

Interesting building
Interesting building
Tiles on the interesting building
Tiles

 

Cité Francaise

Further along Kemankeş Street is Cité Francaise (Fransız Geçidi). It’s a historic shopping arcade dating back to the 1890s. It runs between Kemankeş Street and Mumhane Street and features fancy iron gates.

Cité Francaise in Karaköy, Istanbul, Turkey
Cité Francaise
Cité Francaise in Karaköy, Istanbul, Turkey
Cité Francaise
Arcade at Cité Francaise
Arcade

 

Karaköy Police Station

Finally, next door to Cité Francaise is the Karaköy Police Station (Karaköy Polis Merkezi), which contains an ornate façade. It dates back to 1823 and is one of 250 police stations built in Constantinople during the reign of Sultan Mahmud II. Only 32 of these police stations survive, and the Karaköy branch is the best preserved.

Karaköy Police Station in Karaköy, Istanbul, Turkey
Karaköy Police Station


 

Kemeraltı Street

Next, we’ll walk back to Karaköy Square down Kemeraltı Street (Kemeraltı Caddesi). It’s a busy street along the tram line and separates Karaköy from Galata. There are a few minor points of interest along the street.

 

Surp Krikor Lusavoriç Armenian Church

First, on the east side of the street is Surp Krikor Lusavoriç Armenian Church (Saint Gregory the Illuminator / Surp Krikor Lusavoriç Ermeni Kilisesi). It was originally completed in either 1391 or 1436. It’s the oldest Armenian Apostolic church in Istanbul and has survived several fires throughout the centuries.

Surp Krikor Lusavoriç Armenian Church in Karaköy, Istanbul, Turkey
Surp Krikor Lusavoriç Armenian Church
Surp Krikor Lusavoriç Armenian Church in Karaköy, Istanbul, Turkey
Surp Krikor Lusavoriç Armenian Church
Bell tower of Surp Krikor Lusavoriç Armenian Church
Bell tower

The original church was demolished by the Turkish government in May 1958 in order to widen Kemeraltı Street. It was rebuilt between 1962 and 1965 by architect Bedros Zobyan and is half the width of the original church. You can try knocking on the door to gain access, but in my experience the caretaker has been cranky and reluctant to open for visitors.

Nave of Surp Krikor Lusavoriç Armenian Church
Nave

 

Galata Greek Primary School

Directly across the street is the Galata Greek Primary School (Σχολή Γαλατά / Galata Rum İlköğretim Okulu). It was founded in 1885.

Galata Greek Primary School in Karaköy, Istanbul, Turkey
Galata Greek Primary School
Galata Greek Primary School
Galata Greek Primary School

 

St. Benoit French High School

A bit further west is St. Benoit French High School (Lycée Français Privé Saint-Benoît / Saint Benoit Fransız Lisesi). It was established in 1783 by French Lazarist friars and is now one of the most prestigious high schools in Turkey.

St. Benoit French High School in Karaköy, Istanbul, Turkey
St. Benoit French High School
St. Benoit French High School
St. Benoit French High School

 

Church of St. Benoit

On the grounds of Saint Benoit High School is the Church of St. Benoit (Saint Benoit Latin Katolik Kilisesi). It’s the oldest Catholic church still in use in the city. It was founded by Genoese Benedictine friars on May 12, 1427, and was dedicated to St. Benoit and the Virgin Mary (Santa Maria della Misericordia). The only remaining original monument is the 15th century bell tower.

Church of St. Benoit in Karaköy, Istanbul, Turkey
Church of St. Benoit

In the 16th century, Süleyman the Magnificent threatened to convert the church into a mosque for Moors expelled from Spain. King François I of France intervened and it became the Royal Chapel of the Ambassador of France. The Jesuits took over on November 18, 1583. It burned down and was rebuilt several times, eventually becoming the most prestigious church in Galata and the burial place for many upper-class residents and aristocrats. Finally, as mentioned above, French Lazarists took over the complex in 1783.

Church of St. Benoit
Church of St. Benoit

 

Surp Pırgiç Armenian Catholic Church

Continuing west is Surp Pırgiç Armenian Catholic Church (Surp Pırgiç Ermeni Katolik Kilisesi). It’s the oldest Armenian Catholic church in Istanbul.

Surp Pırgiç Armenian Catholic Church in Karaköy, Istanbul, Turkey
Surp Pırgiç Armenian Catholic Church

Surp Pırgiç was built under Mahmud II, who issued a decree allowing the Armenian Catholic community to build the church on October 7, 1831. Construction started on May 12, 1832 and it opened on January 13, 1834. The church served as the seat of the Armenian Catholic Patriarch of Cilicia from 1850 to 1928, when the patriarchate moved to Beirut. It’s hard to notice until you spot the small bell tower on top of the building.

Bell tower of Surp Pırgiç Armenian Catholic Church
Bell tower

 

Balıklı Han

Finally, just before reaching Karaköy Square is Balıklı Han. It was built in 1875 by Joachim II (1802-1878), the Ecumenical Patriarch of Constantinople. It sits on a former branch of the Balıklı Greek Hospital (Balıklı Rum Hastanesi) which is located in Zeytinburnu. The current building, which was designed by architect Ariditi Razi, was constructed to collect income for the hospital. It now houses the 10 Karaköy Hotel.

Balıklı Han in Karaköy, Istanbul, Turkey
Balıklı Han


 

Western Half of Karaköy

The western half of Karaköy sits between the Golden Horn and Bankalar Caddesi. It contains a handful of important historic landmarks.

Golden Horn side of Karaköy, Istanbul, Turkey
Golden Horn side of Karaköy

Also called Perşembe Pazarı, Arapcami, or Azapkapı, local industry is very much alive in this section of Karaköy. You’ll find several shops selling industrial equipment and tools as well as skilled craftsmen plying their trade.

Road signs for sale on Tersane Street
Road signs for sale on Tersane Street
Industrial equipment for sale
Industrial equipment for sale

 

Karaköy Fish Market

First, nestled behind the Turyol ferry terminal just west of the Galata Bridge is the Karaköy Fish Market. Now strictly indoors, the market once spilled out onto what’s now a parking lot next to the ferry terminal. If you keep walking further past the market, there are a number of fish restaurants with outdoor tables.

Karaköy Fish Market near Karaköy Square in Karaköy, Istanbul, Turkey
Karaköy Fish Market
Karaköy Fish Market near Karaköy Square in Karaköy, Istanbul, Turkey
Karaköy Fish Market
Fresh fish at Karaköy Fish Market
Fresh fish
Fish restaurants in Karaköy, Istanbul, Turkey
Fish restaurants

 

Karaköy Seaside Park

Continuing west along the Golden Horn, you’ll come to a beautiful open space, Karaköy Seaside Park (Karaköy Sahil Parkı). It’s a great place to relax and escape the bustle of the city.

Karaköy Seaside Park in Karaköy, Istanbul, Turkey
Karaköy Seaside Park
Karaköy Seaside Park in Karaköy, Istanbul, Turkey
Karaköy Seaside Park

The park contains a nice grassy area and a running and cycling track that leads from the Turyol ferry terminal under the Golden Horn Metro Bridge and all the way to the Sokollu Mehmet Paşa Mosque. A boardwalk runs along the entire length of the track as well.

Karaköy Seaside Park in Karaköy, Istanbul, Turkey
Karaköy Seaside Park
Boardwalk
Boardwalk

 

Hatibzade Yahya Pasha Fountain

On the east side of the park is the Hatibzade Yahya Pasha Fountain (Hatipzâde Yahya Paşa Çeşmesi). It was built in 1732 by Hatibzade Yahya Pasha (d. 1755), an Ottoman statesman and admiral. It has been in a dilapidated state for quite some time but has been under restoration during my last few visits to the park.

Hatibzade Yahya Pasha Fountain
Hatibzade Yahya Pasha Fountain

 

Mimar Sinan Statue

On the west side of the park next to the grassy area is a statue of the great Ottoman architect Mimar Sinan. It was erected in 1987 and made by Turkish sculptor Haluk Tezonar (1942-1995).

Mimar Sinan statue
Mimar Sinan statue
Mimar Sinan statue
Mimar Sinan statue

 

Walls of Galata

Further to the west, just underneath the Golden Horn Metro Bridge, is one of the last remaining sections of the Genoese walls that once encircled Galata. They were built in the 14th century. All but a few sections were demolished in the 1870s to allow for expansion of the city. The walls were being restored at the time of my last few visits to the area.

Remaining Genoese wall
Remaining Genoese wall
Remaining Genoese wall in Karaköy, Istanbul, Turkey
Remaining Genoese wall
Genoese wall under restoration in May 2022
Genoese wall under restoration in May 2022


 

Sokollu Mehmed Pasha Mosque

Beyond the walls is the Sokollu Mehmed Pasha Mosque (Sokollu Mehmet Paşa Camii), which is also known as the Azapkapı Mosque (Azapkapı Camii). It sits next to the Atatürk Bridge.

Sokollu Mehmed Pasha Mosque in Karaköy, Istanbul, Turkey
Sokollu Mehmed Pasha Mosque

The mosque was built between 1573 and 1578 and was designed by legendary architect Mimar Sinan (c. 1490-1588). It was commissioned by Sokollu Mehmed Pasha and is one of three mosques in Istanbul with the same name built by Mimar Sinan. The others are in Kadırga and Büyükçekmece.

Sokollu Mehmed Pasha Mosque in Karaköy, Istanbul, Turkey
Sokollu Mehmed Pasha Mosque

Sokollu Mehmed Pasha was the Grand Vizier to Süleyman the Magnificent, Selim II, and Murad III. He was born into a Serbian Orthodox Christian family and taken away as part of the devşirme system. After serving as a Janissary, he rose through the ranks of the Ottoman imperial system, serving as Grand Admiral (Kaptan-ı Derya) from 1546 to 1551; Governor-General of Rumelia from 1551 to 1555; Third Vizier from 1555 to 1561; Second Vizier from 1561 to 1565; and eventually Grand Vizier from 1565 to 1579. Sokollu Mehmed Pasha was assassinated in 1579. He’s buried in a tomb in Eyüp near his wife, Ismihan Sultan.

Sokollu Mehmed Pasha Mosque
Sokollu Mehmed Pasha Mosque

The Sokollu Mehmed Pasha Mosque was damaged by fire in 1807. It was renovated before World War I, but due to the war it sat in ruins for many years. It only reopened to worship in 1941 after a three year renovation process.

Ottoman inscription on the Sokollu Mehmed Pasha Mosque
Ottoman inscription

 

Features of the Sokollu Mehmed Pasha Mosque

The mosque has no courtyard. There’s only one minaret, which sits to the left of the entrance because the mosque was built too close to the shoreline. Minarets usually sit to the right.

Minaret at the Sokollu Mehmed Pasha Mosque
Minaret
Minaret at the Sokollu Mehmed Pasha Mosque
Minaret

To reach the prayer hall, you must climb a staircase then pass through a narthex. The mosque is rectangular in shape with a main dome that rests on eight arches.

Narthex of the Sokollu Mehmed Pasha Mosque
Narthex
Prayer hall of the Sokollu Mehmed Pasha Mosque in Karaköy, Istanbul, Turkey
Prayer hall
Dome of the Sokollu Mehmed Pasha Mosque in Karaköy, Istanbul, Turkey
Dome

 

Saliha Sultan Fountain

At the west end of Tersane Street is the Saliha Sultan Fountain (Saliha Sultan Çeşmesi). It was built by Saliha Sultan (c. 1680-1739), the mother of Mahmud I, between 1732 and 1733. The architect was Kayserili Mustafa Ağa. Saliha Sultan was thought to have been born in Azapkapı to a Greek family and spent her childhood there.

Saliha Sultan Fountain in Azapkapı, Istanbul, Turkey
Saliha Sultan Fountain

 

Yeşildirek Şifa Hamam

Across the street is the Yeşildirek Şifa Hamam (Yeşildirek Şifa Hamamı). It was once part of the Sokollu Mehmed Pasha Mosque complex. The hamam has been rebuilt several times and has lost its original appearance.

Yeşildirek Şifa Hamam in Azapkapı, Istanbul, Turkey
Yeşildirek Şifa Hamam


 

Arab Mosque

Heading back east you’ll find the Arab Mosque (Arap Camii), which dates back to the old Genoese colony of Galata. It was built by Dominican friars as the Church of San Domenico between 1323 and 1325. It sits on the site of a 6th century Byzantine church, possibly dedicated to Saint Irene.

Arab Mosque in Karaköy, Istanbul, Turkey
Arab Mosque

After the Fall of Constantinople, sometime between 1475 and 1478, the church was converted to a mosque by Mehmed the Conqueror. It was known as the Great Mosque (Cami-i Kebir) or the Galata Mosque (Galata Camii). The friars later founded the Church of SS Peter and Paul up the hill. The Arab Mosque is the only Roman Catholic church in the city that was converted to a mosque.

Arab Mosque in Karaköy, Istanbul, Turkey
Arab Mosque

During the Spanish Inquisition, Bayezid II assigned the mosque to Muslims fleeing Spain. This gave it its present name, the Arab Mosque. The building has been renovated several times over the years. The most notable changes are the windows, which were converted from a Gothic to an Ottoman style, and the conversion of the bell tower to a minaret.

Minaret of the Arab Mosque
Minaret

During a renovation between 1913 and 1919, several Genoese tombstones dating from the beginning of the 14th to the middle of the 15th centuries were discovered. They were taken to the Istanbul Archaeology Museums.

Foundation office of the Arab Mosque
Mosque foundation office
Door to the foundation office of the Arab Mosque
Door to the foundation office

 

Features of the Arab Mosque

On the north side of the building is a large courtyard. The ablutions fountain (şadirvan) was built in 1868 by Adile Sultan (1826-1899), the daughter of Mahmud II.

Courtyard of the Arab Mosque in Karaköy, Istanbul, Turkey
Courtyard

Unfortunately, the panel next to the entrance falsely indicates that the mosque was originally built by Umayyad prince Maslama ibn Abd al-Malik (d. 738) during the Second Arab Siege of Constantinople in 717-718. This is an Ottoman legend. It’s irresponsible and misleading to visitors to display this false history.

Entrance portal of the Arab Mosque
Entrance portal
Panel with false history at the Arab Mosque
Panel with false history

The shape of the bell tower, now a minaret, has remained largely unchanged since the building was converted to a mosque. In the passage underneath, there are fragments of stones with coats of arms dating back to the 14th century.

Minaret of the Arab Mosque
Minaret
Stone fragments under the bell tower at the Arab Mosque
Stone fragments under the bell tower

 

Genoese Buildings

Continuing east through the neighborhood, the most interesting structures to me are the Genoese buildings found throughout the neighborhood. The greatest concentration of them are located north of Tersane Street along Perşembe Pazarı Street and house workshops and hardware stores.

Genoese building
Genoese building
Genoese building
Genoese building
Looking up at a Genoese building in Karaköy, Istanbul, Turkey
Looking up at a Genoese building
Genoese building in Karaköy, Istanbul, Turkey
Genoese building

The most important of the Genoese buildings is the Genoese Courthouse (Ceneviz Mahkemesi). It and other Genoese buildings date back mostly to the 14th century, when Galata was a Genoese colony.

Genoese Courthouse in Karaköy, Istanbul, Turkey
Genoese Courthouse
Window on the Genoese Courthouse
Window on the Genoese Courthouse

Further east towards Karaköy Square is another Genoese building. It sits along Billur Street.

Genoese building
Genoese building


 

Bereketzade Madrasa Mosque

Next to the Genoese building on Billur Street is the Bereketzade Madrasa Mosque (Bereketzade Medresesi Camii). It was originally built as a madrasa in 1705 by Bereketzade Mehmed Efendi. Over time, it was converted to a mosque.

Bereketzade Madrasa Mosque
Bereketzade Madrasa Mosque

Perhaps more impressive is the modern building towering above. It contains beautiful designs painted under the eaves as well as ornate motifs.

Building next to the Bereketzade Madrasa Mosque
Building next to the Bereketzade Madrasa Mosque
Building next to the Bereketzade Madrasa Mosque
Building next to the Bereketzade Madrasa Mosque

 

Fatih Bedesten

Back across busy Tersane Street (Tersane Caddesi) are two important Ottoman commercial structures. First, right along Tersane Street is the historic Fatih Bazaar (Fatih Çarşısı), also known as the Fatih Bedesten (Fatih Bedesteni). This trade center was built between 1453 and 1481 as the Galata Bedesten (Galata Bedesteni) by Mehmed the Conqueror. It contains 12 lead-covered domes and is in need of restoration.

Fatih Bedesten in Karaköy, Istanbul, Turkey
Fatih Bedesten

 

Rüstem Pasha Han

Nearby is the Rüstem Pasha Han, which was built in 1561 by the Grand Vizier of Süleyman the Magnificent, Rüstem Pasha (c. 1505 – 1561). The architect was the great Mimar Sinan (c. 1490 – 1588). It was originally named Kurşunlu Han and was used mainly by non-Muslim merchants.

Rüstem Pasha Han in Karaköy, Istanbul, Turkey
Rüstem Pasha Han

Rüstem Pasha Han was built atop the ruins of the Genoese church of Saint Michel. It’s a rectangular building with a central courtyard surrounded by two stories of arched porticoes. Today, it’s hidden behind several modern structures.

Rüstem Pasha Han in Karaköy, Istanbul, Turkey
Rüstem Pasha Han

Some original elements of the church survive, including a slab on the floor and some brick decorations. There’s even an ancient column capital that’s been converted to a fountain.

Ancient column capital at Rüstem Pasha Han
Ancient column capital


 

Where to Eat in Karaköy

Ever since Karaköy has undergone its transformation from a dirty port area to a trendy neighborhood, lots of good restaurants and cafés have popped up. They’re a great complement to the classics that have been in the neighborhood for several years.  I have yet to try many of these new places, but I’ve been impressed with the few I’ve been to.

 

Ali Ocakbaşı

Out of all the restaurants in Karaköy, the best I’ve been to is Ali Ocakbaşı. They have multiple branches in Istanbul, but my friend Duygu recommended the Karaköy branch for the amazing views. It’s a little hard to find – off a hidden alley west of Karaköy Square and up a rickety elevator – but once inside you’ll feel welcomed by the wonderful staff. The building is Enomotarchi Han, which was designed by J.P. Melides and built in 1910.

Alley leading to the entrance to Ali Ocakbaşı
Alley leading to the entrance
Entrance to Enomotarchi Han
Entrance to Enomotarchi Han
Ali Ocakbaşı in Karaköy, Beyoğlu, Istanbul, Turkey
Ali Ocakbaşı

Reservations are recommended. If you’ve made reservations, you might be given a table with a great view across the Golden Horn.

Dining room at Ali Ocakbaşı
Dining room
The view from Ali Ocakbaşı
The view

 

Fixed Menu

On my first visit, I went with a group of 10. We all shared the fixed menu with alcohol, which is only offered to groups of six or more. It was a true feast and everyone went home stuffed and happy. The meal started with a selection of meze dishes and spreads, then came a small portion of lahmacun.

Meze dishes at Ali Ocakbaşı
Meze dishes
Lahmacun at Ali Ocakbaşı
Lahmacun

The feast continued with a huge assortment of meats. There were different types of kebabs and chicken wings. It was so much meat I lost track.

Assorted kebabs at Ali Ocakbaşı in Karaköy, Beyoğlu, Istanbul, Turkey
Assorted kebabs

We finished off our night with excellent desserts. The semolina mixed with melted cheese was great, but the pumpkin topped with walnuts and sesame oil stole the show. Both are served with ice cream.

Semolina dessert (left) and pumpkin dessert (right) at Ali Ocakbaşı in Karaköy, Istanbul, Turkey
Semolina dessert (left) and pumpkin dessert (right)

 

Ordering off the Menu

On another visit, we were a group of three and ordered off the menu. We started with a few meze dishes and each ordered a kebab. I had the fıstıklı kebap (pistachio kebab), which had bits of pistachio mixed in with the meat, while Marisol had a lamb kebab. They were as delicious as expected. Of course, we saved room for the same desserts as seen above.

Meze dishes at Ali Ocakbaşı
Meze dishes
Fıstıklı kebap at Ali Ocakbaşı in Karaköy, Istanbul, Turkey
Fıstıklı kebap
Lamb kebab at Ali Ocakbaşı in Karaköy, Istanbul, Turkey
Lamb kebab

On yet another visit with a tour group, we ordered some of my favorite specialties from before as well as çöp şiş and beyti kebab. For dessert, we tried the katmer. Both were as tasty as the rest of the food.

Çöp şiş at Ali Ocakbaşı in Istanbul, Turkey
Çöp şiş
Beyti kebab at Ali Ocakbaşı
Beyti kebab
Katmer at Ali Ocakbaşı
Katmer


 

Karaköy Güllüoğlu

Karaköy Güllüoğlu is the most famous place in Karaköy and the most famous baklava shop in Istanbul. It dates back to 1820 when it was founded in Gaziantep by Hacı Mehmed Güllü. On November 7, 1949, his grandson, Mustafa Güllü, opened the very first baklava shop in Istanbul. They’ve since moved from their original location closer to Galataport.

Karaköy Güllüoğlu in Karaköy, Istanbul, Turkey
Karaköy Güllüoğlu
Former location of Karaköy Güllüoğlu in Karaköy, Istanbul, Turkey
Former location
Trays of baklava at Karaköy Güllüoğlu in Karaköy, Istanbul, Turkey
Trays of baklava

The main branch is usually jam packed with people and it can be quite a spectacle. It looks disorganized, but they have a system that seems to work well amidst all the chaos. You order and pay at one counter, then take your receipt to another counter to pick up your order.

Baklava at Karaköy Güllüoğlu in Beyoğlu, Istanbul, Turkey
Baklava
Artistic baklava at Karaköy Güllüoğlu in Karaköy, Istanbul, Turkey
Artistic baklava

If it’s too crowded for your liking, you can walk a few blocks to the factory store on Mumhane Street to avoid the insanity.

Karaköy Güllüoğlu factory store in Karaköy, Istanbul, Turkey
Karaköy Güllüoğlu factory store
Karaköy Güllüoğlu factory store in Karaköy, Istanbul, Turkey
Karaköy Güllüoğlu factory store

 

Namlı Gurme

Namlı Gurme, located to the left of the baklava dealer, serves great Turkish breakfasts and sells all kinds of fresh Turkish products such as olives, cheeses, meats, breads, and pastries. They were in the same building next to Karaköy Güllüoğlu but have since moved.

Namlı Gurme
Namlı Gurme
Former location of Namlı Gurme
Former location of Namlı Gurme

 

Çerkezköy Delicatessen (Permanently Closed)

To the right of the baklava legend is Çerkezköy Delicatessen. It was founded in 1956 and is much like Namlı Gurme. They have lots of Turkish products for sale as well as breakfasts, pizza, pasta, burgers, pastries, sandwiches, and more.

Çerkezköy Delicatessen
Çerkezköy Delicatessen

 

Karaköy Lokantası

Another classic restaurant is Karaköy Lokantası, which is located on the ground floor of the Novotel. They serve delicious traditional Turkish food for lunch (12pm to 4pm) and dinner (5pm to midnight). On Sundays, they’re open for dinner only from 4pm to midnight. Reservations are recommended for dinner while lunch is first come, first served. It’s easily one of the best restaurants in Karaköy. (Note: the restaurant has moved to the Novotel from its former location a couple blocks away.)

Karaköy Lokantası in Karaköy, Istanbul, Turkey
Karaköy Lokantası
Former location of Karaköy Lokantası in Karaköy, Istanbul, Turkey
Former location of Karaköy Lokantası


 

Books & Coffee

If you’re in the mood for a good cup of coffee, pop into Books & Coffee on Karaköy Square next to Tünel. It’s a pleasant space offering your run-of-the-mill coffees like cappuccino, latte, and Turkish coffee as well as coffees brewed with alternative methods.

Books & Coffee
Books & Coffee
Books & Coffee in Karaköy, Istanbul, Turkey
Books & Coffee
"History of Coffee" at Books & Coffee
“History of Coffee”

 

Anda (Permanently Closed)

Anda is a small café in the backstreets of Karaköy that also serves breakfast, sandwiches, and salads. It’s cozy and has a relaxed atmosphere with friendly service.

Anda
Anda
Latte at Anda
Latte

 

Mutfak Dili Ev Yemekleri (Permanently Closed)

My friend Matthias took me to Mutfak Dili Ev Yemekleri for lunch one day. This small restaurant served one of the best meals I’ve ever had in Istanbul. True to its name, they have delicious home-cooked meals. Their purpose is to provide the meals in a way food is traditionally cooked at home. They cook with a home-style oven with a charcoal furnace and don’t use any industrial equipment. Instead of a professionally trained chef, there’s a mother in the kitchen.

Mutfak Dili Ev Yemekleri
Mutfak Dili Ev Yemekleri

 

Map of Where to Eat in Karaköy

Author

Owner of Paisadventure. World traveler. Purdue Boilermaker. Chicago sports lover. Living in Colombia.

Write A Comment

This site uses Akismet to reduce spam. Learn how your comment data is processed.

Jump To