Last updated on .
Kanlıca, sitting on the Asian side of the Bosporus in Istanbul, is a village known for its delicious yogurt and some of the most beautiful seaside mansions.
Introduction to Kanlıca
During the Byzantine period, Kanlıca was known as Vorádion (Βοράδιον) or Gláros (Γλάρος). It became an upscale neighborhood during the Ottoman period. In 1882, the population was about ⅔ Muslim and ⅓ Greek. There were also small Armenian and Levantine communities.
Today, Kanlıca is a popular stop on the touristic Bosporus cruise offered by Istanbul City Ferry Lines (Şehir Hatları). It’s also the starting point for the annual Bosphorus Intercontinental Swim, an open-water competition that ends 6.5 kilometers (4 miles) away at Kuruçeşme on the European side.
Kanlıca Yogurt
Kanlıca Yogurt (Kanlıca Yoğurdu) is a brand that’s been produced since 1893. It’s readily sold on the touristic cruises and at the ferry terminal. What sets it apart from other Turkish yogurts is that it’s eaten with powdered sugar while others are typically eaten with savory foods. It can also be served with jam or honey. The yogurt is a nice little treat and a must try when visiting the village.
Getting to Kanlıca
The easiest way to get to Kanlıca is through Üsküdar. Take a ferry to Üsküdar and walk to the Üsküdar Cami Önü stop (in front of the mosque across the street from the ferry terminal). Hop on pretty much any bus with a number 15 until you reach the Kanlıca stop. You can also take a dolmuş going to Beykoz and ask the driver to let you out at Kanlıca – it’s much faster than the bus.
If you’re on the European side, there’s a ferry service on the Istanbul City Ferry Lines (İstanbul Şehir Hatları) from either Arnavutköy or Bebek to Kanlıca every few hours throughout the day. Alternatively, you can get there on the aforementioned touristic Bosporus cruise. Kanlıca is one of two stops on the Asian side.
Kanlıca Square
The small Kanlıca Square (Kanlıca Meydanı) is at the heart of the village. It’s lined with outdoor cafés and restaurants and a tall lighthouse called the Radar Tower (Radar Kulesi). You’ll also be able to sample the yogurt there.
İskender Pasha Mosque
Also on the square is the İskender Pasha Mosque (İskender Paşa Camii). It’s a lesser work of Mimar Sinan (c. 1490-1588), built in 1559. The tomb of İskender Pasha, the Ottoman military judge who commissioned the mosque, is in the courtyard
Seaside Promenade
On the north end of the village is a promenade right along the Bosporus. It leads to the neighboring village of Çubuklu. It’s a fantastic place to walk with amazing views across to the European side.
Seaside Mansions in Kanlıca
The shores of Kanlıca are lined with fine Ottoman seaside mansions (yalılar), both modern and historic. Of course, they’re best seen from the sea, so I recommend going by ferry or taking a touristic Bosporus cruise. I’ve walked along the road and it’s impossible to admire the homes from the street because of the high security fences. You’ll get the best views as the ferry approaches the terminal. I’ll cover several mansions below moving from south to north.
Kadri Pasha Mansion
Starting on the south side of the neighborhood is the Kadri Pasha Mansion (Sadrazam Kadri Paşa Yalısı), which was built in the 1850s by Ismail Pasha, the Chief Physician of Sultan Abdülmecid I. Mehmed Kadri Pasha (1832-1884) married Ismail Pasha’s daughter and received the mansion as a wedding gift. Kadri Pasha later served as Grand Vizier and mayor of Constantinople. His heirs, who still live there today, restored the mansion after a ship crashed into it.
Ferruh Efendi Mansion
A couple homes north is the Ferruh Efendi Mansion (Ferruh Efendi Yalısı). It’s a small two-story mansion with separate harem and selamlık sections. The harem section on the south side belongs to popular Turkish singer Sezen Aksu, who uses it as a studio. The mansion was built by Ferruh Efendi in the 19th century but has changed hands several times. It has also lost its original appearance.
Nâzım Pasha Mansion
Next door is the Nâzım Pasha Mansion (Nazım Paşa Yalısı), which was built by Mehmed Nâzım Pasha, the Governor of Van. He was a member of the Mevlevi order and grandfather of poet Nâzım Hikmet (1902-1963). The small wooden mansion has three floors on the left and two on the right.
Edhem Pertev Bey Mansion
Two houses further north is the Edhem Pertev Bey Mansion (Ethem Pertev Bey Yalısı). It was built in 1860 by Saylı Fatma Hanım, a member of the Ottoman Imperial Court. It was purchased by Edhem Pertev Bey (1871-1927), a pharmacist, in the early 20th century. The mansion combines Arabesque and Art Nouveau styles with British Colonial and Victorian influences. The harem has two floors with a boathouse underneath while the selamlık a one-story detached structure to the south. The Arabesque balcony was added in 1910.
Hacı Ahmed Arif Bey Mansion
Moving along is the Hacı Ahmed Arif Bey Mansion (Hacı Ahmet Arif Bey Yalısı). It was built in 1880 by Hacı Ahmed Arif Bey, the grandson of Mehmed Muhtar Bey. It was later owned by Nazmiye Ramazanoğlu. The mansion has survived in its original state. It’s three stories high with a stone ground floor and two wooden upper floors. The balconies are a defining characteristic.
Saffet Pasha Mansion
Continuing north towards the ferry terminal is the massive Saffet Pasha Mansion (Sadrazam Saffet Paşa Yalısı). It was built by Edhem Efendi in 1760 and designed by a Turkish architect educated in Venice. By the middle of the 19th century, it was dilapidated. Mehmed Esad Saffet Pasha (1814-1883), who served as Grand Vizier for a short time under Abdülhamid II, purchased the mansion and had it restored in 1865 to its original state. It passed to his family after his death. His last heir to own it was Kadri Cenani, who lived there from 1941 until a devastating fire in 1976. Prince Waldemar of Prussia (1889-1945), William Somerset Maugham (1874-1965), and Agatha Christie (1890-1976) were all guests there.
The Saffet Pasha Mansion consisted of a harem and selamlık and also had a bathhouse and boathouse. The boathouse was demolished in 1915 followed by the harem in 1920. The harem plot was sold to Sedat Simavi, Saffet Pasha’s great-grandson, who built a mansion there between 1939 and 1941. As previously mentioned, the selamlık burned down in 1976 and was rebuilt with reinforced concrete.
Yağcı Şefik Bey Mansion
One of the most noticeable seaside mansions is the Yağcı Şefik Bey Mansion (Yağcı Şefik Bey Yalısı), sitting just north of the pier. It was built in 1905 by Yağcı Şefik Bey (d. 1915), an Ottoman merchant. His descendants still live there. The Art Nouveau mansion occupies the site of the Cemile Sultan Mansion (Cemile Sultan Yalısı), which was owned by Cemile Sultan (1843-1915), the daughter of Sultan Abdülmecid I, and burned down in 1871.
Esra Umur Mansion
A few houses north is the Esra Umur Mansion (Esra Umur Yalısı). Although I can’t find any information about it other than its name, it’s noticeable for the fringes on the eaves.
Yedi Sekiz Hasan Pasha Mansion
The Yedi Sekiz Hasan Pasha Mansion (Yedi Sekiz Hasan Paşa Yalısı) is at the north end of Kanlıca. It was built by Asaf Pasha in 1870 and was known as the Ottoman Rose (Osmanlının Gülü) due to its color. It’s named for Yedi Sekiz Hasan Pasha (1831-1905), a soldier and police commander who prevented a revolt against Sultan Abdülhamid II. He killed educator and political activist Ali Suavi (1839-1878) who was trying to restore the dethroned Murad V to the throne. In return, the Sultan gave him the title of pasha and he later rose to the rank of marshal. The three-story mansion was restored in 2009.
Ahmed Rasim Pasha Mansion
Finally, the neighborhood’s northernmost mansion is the Ahmed Rasim Pasha Mansion (Ahmet Rasim Paşa Yalısı). It was built by Ottoman statesman Ahmed Rasim Pasha (d. 1897) in 1890. He served as governor of Diyarbakır and Tripoli as well as a short stint as mayor of Constantinople. The mansion burned down in a fire after his death in 1897 and was completely rebuilt, half the size of the original. Ahmed Rasim Pasha’s family sold the mansion to the municipality in 1915 and it was used as a school until 1970. The three-story Empire style mansion was restored after 1988.
