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İstinye is a neighborhood on the European side of the Bosporus in Istanbul, Turkey. It’s situated in the Sarıyer district between Emirgan and Yeniköy.
Introduction to İstinye
İstinye was the site of a town called Lasthenes (Λασθένης), which was inhabited during the Roman and Byzantine periods. The town was renamed Leosthenion (Λεωσθένιον), which eventually changed to Sosthenion (Σωσθένιον) during the Middle Ages. At the end of the Byzantine period, the area was known as Stenos, which later became Stenia. The current name of İstinye derives from the latter.
The Michaelion, a famous Byzantine church dedicated to Archangel Michael, was located there. It was the model for hundreds of other churches in the Eastern Christian world. According to tradition, the church was built in the 4th century by Emperor Constantine I atop a pagan temple associated with healing and medicine. The temple was built by the Argonauts and dedicated to Zeus. A monastery was added to the church by the 11th century and it functioned until at least 1337. It was likely demolished in the 15th century for material to build Rumeli Fortress.
The area began to develop in the 16th century when the Ottomans used the deep natural harbor as a shipyard. A small Turkish neighborhood sprung up and a mosque was built in 1547, while the Greek minority lived along the shore. Mansions began to appear in the 18th century. A modern shipyard went into service in 1912 and operated until August 26, 1991. Almost all minority residents left after the Istanbul pogrom on September 6-7, 1955.
Today, the small bay at İstinye is regarded as one of the most scenic locations on the Bosporus. It attracts several visitors, especially on the weekends, for its cafés and fish restaurants. The neighborhood has been the headquarters of the Istanbul Stock Exchange since 1995 and the massive US Consulate General since 2003.
Getting to İstinye
To get to İstinye, you can take the 22 bus from Kabataş or the 22, 40 or SRY-7 from Beşiktaş. The ferry terminal has service every hour or so on the City Ferry Lines (Şehir Hatları) from Eminönü and Beşiktaş.
Müşir Fuad Pasha Mansion
The Müşir Fuad Pasha Mansion (Müşir Fuat Paşa Yalısı), which is on the south side of the bay, is perhaps the most impressive historic building in İstinye. It was built by Ottoman Post and Telegraph Minister Billuri Mehmed Efendi in the second half of the 19th century. It then changed ownership, first to Iranian ambassador Muhsin Khan (d. 1910), then to Hussein bin Ali, King of Hejaz (1854-1931), and finally to Ottoman military leader and politician Müşir Fuad Pasha (1835-1931), for whom the mansion is named today.
The Müşir Fuad Pasha Mansion was sold to Deniz Yolları, the shipyard directorate, in 1940, and it was finally restored after the shipyard closed in 1991. The building was then allocated to the Ministry of Foreign Affairs. The upper floors consist of six rooms around a central hall. The original configuration of the ground floor was lost during its time as the shipyard office and warehouse.
İstinye Park
İstinye Park is a large upscale mall that opened on September 21, 2007. It has roughly 300 stores and restaurants and 85,250 square meters (917,600 square feet) of retail space. The mall has three sections: the Grand Rotunda, with four levels of shopping space; the Lifestyle Center, which is an open-air “town square” surrounded by luxury shops; and the Bazaar, which is inspired by historical Turkish architecture.
Where to Eat in İstinye
While I haven’t had a meal in the neighborhood, I can recommend a scenic place for tea or coffee.
İstinye Pier Tea Garden
The İstinye Pier Tea Garden (İstinye İskele Çay Bahçesi) is a popular place to sit and relax with a drink or a meal. It sits on the north end of the bay and has spectacular views of the Bosporus. Service isn’t that great, however.
