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Hagia Sophia is one of the most magnificent structures ever built. The building, with an interior full of priceless Byzantine mosaics and Islamic artwork, is part of Istanbul’s UNESCO World Heritage listing.
Notes about this Post
The information and photos I’ve compiled for you are from several different visits to Hagia Sophia over the years, starting with my first visit in November 2010. At that time, Hagia Sophia was a museum. It has since been re-converted to a mosque (2020) and in January 2024 a section of the building reopened as a museum.
Unfortunately, with these changes, several sections of Hagia Sophia are no longer accessible to all visitors as in the past. I’ve noted those sections in red throughout the text, but thankfully I’ve been able the photograph them to share with you here. For several different virtual tours of Hagia Sophia, click here.
Personal Reflection on Hagia Sophia
NOTE: On July 10, 2020, Turkish President Recep Tayyip Erdoğan signed a decree announcing the conversion of Hagia Sophia to a mosque. I strongly condemn this decision.
In a city with over 3,000 mosques that don’t all fill on Fridays, and the claim that Hagia Sophia is being “returned to its intended purpose”, this decision is a prime example of religious intolerance, cultural destruction, and imperialism.
I only hope reason will one day prevail and the building will again belong to all people of the world. The monument should stand as a symbol of peace and unity among people of different faiths and nationalities, not a political tool used to create divisions.
Visiting Hagia Sophia
With the conversion of the building from museum to mosque in July 2020, there was no admission to visit Hagia Sophia. However, on January 15, 2024, the protocol for visiting has changed. Security checks to enter the complex remain in place, and visitors must observe the dress code for entering a mosque.
Tourists are only allowed to visit the upper gallery, which contains historic Byzantine mosaics and other features as well as the best views of the building. The ticket booth and tourist entrance is now opposite the gate to Topkapi Palace and the building is open daily. Admission is €25 (as of January 2024) and neither the Museum Pass Istanbul nor the Museum Pass Türkiye is valid. An audio guide is available in 23 different languages. Also note the building is closed to tourists until 2:30pm on Fridays.
The ground level of Hagia Sophia is only open to Turkish citizens and Muslim worshippers. Turkish citizens can enter at any time while foreign Muslims can enter only during prayer times. The entrance for worshippers is on Hagia Sophia Square (the same as the original tourist entrance). Below is a video of Hagia Sophia just before Friday prayers on May 27, 2022:
Brief History of Hagia Sophia
Hagia Sophia was finished in 537 as the largest Christian church in the world and the seat of the Ecumenical Patriarchate of Constantinople. It was converted to a mosque after the Ottoman conquest of Constantinople in 1453, turned into a museum in 1935, and re-converted to a mosque in 2020. It has had a long and complicated history and still evokes hotly contested debates between Christians and Muslims as well as Greeks and Turks.
Origins of Hagia Sophia
The origins of Hagia Sophia date back to a church completed on the site on February 15, 360, under Roman Emperor Constantius II. It was called Megali Ekklisia (Great Church / Μεγάλη Ἐκκλησία) and replaced Hagia Eirine as the cathedral of Constantinople (now Istanbul, Turkey). The church burned down during riots protesting the exile of the Patriarch of Constantinople, John Chrysostom, in 404.
Second Church
The second church built on the site was called Hagia Sophia. It was consecrated on October 10, 415, under Theodosius II. This church also burned down on January 13-14, 532, during the Nika Revolt. Over 30,000 people died and half the city burned after an attempt to overthrow Justinian I.
Fragments of the second church are on display in an excavation area on the west side of the building. You can also see a rendering of the older church as well as more fragments in another area opposite the entrance. (Note: This area is now accessible to worshippers only.)
Construction of Hagia Sophia
Justinian decided to rebuild Hagia Sophia on a much larger and grander scale than the previous church. He called on architects Isidore of Miletus (b. c. 475) and Anthemius of Tralles (c. 474 – between 533-558) to oversee the construction. Over 10,000 workers were employed. Five years later, on December 27, 537, the new church was inaugurated.
When the church was completed, Emperor Justinian proclaimed, “Solomon, I have outdone thee!” (Νενίκηκά σε Σολομών!). Hagia Sophia was the largest church in the world for nearly 1,000 years, until the Cathedral of Sevilla was built in 1520. Its official name was the Church of the Holy Wisdom of God (Ναός τῆς Ἁγίας τοῦ Θεοῦ Σοφίας).
The original Byzantine mosaics inside the church were completed in the 6th century. Unfortunately, they were all destroyed during the periods of Byzantine Iconoclasm, when religious images were forbidden by leaders of the Eastern Church. The current mosaics were made between 867 and the 14th century.
Addition of Buttresses
After a series of earthquakes over nearly 800 years, along with damage sustained during the Latin occupation of Constantinople (1204-1261), Emperor Andronikos II Palaiologos ordered four buttresses to be built to support the structure. They were completed in 1317. 24 buttresses in total were added during both the Byzantine and Ottoman periods.
Addition of Minarets
On May 29, 1453, Constantinople was conquered by the Ottomans and Hagia Sophia was converted into a mosque. Christian mosaics were plastered over, and the bells, iconostasis, and other Christian elements were removed. The first minaret was ordered by Mehmed the Conqueror (Mehmed II) shortly after the building’s conversion to a mosque. It was built of wood and no longer exists. A red brick minaret was built around 1481 on the southeast corner, probably by Bayezid II.
Selim II had another minaret built on the northeast corner, while Murad III had the northwest and southwest minarets built. The three newer minarets are made of white limestone and sandstone and were designed by the great Ottoman architect Mimar Sinan (c. 1490-1588), who also strengthened the building in anticipation of earthquakes. More recently, the minarets began announcing the call to prayer twice every afternoon in 2013, seven years before the building was converted back to a mosque.
Outer Narthex of Hagia Sophia
The outer narthexes, located on the west side of the building, is the first section of Hagia Sophia visitors walk through. It’s a corridor with a row of doors that separate it from the inner narthex. There’s not much decoration in the outer narthex. (Note: The outer narthex is now accessible to worshippers only.)
Among some of the artifacts I found on display in the outer narthex are stone tablets with inscriptions in Greek. They’re resolutions from a Synod assembly in 1166 under Emperor Manuel I Komnenos and Ecumenical Patriarch Loukas Chrysovergis (d. 1169). There’s also a sarcophagus used by a Byzantine empress.
Inner Narthex of Hagia Sophia
The inner narthex is much more inviting than the outer narthex. It has a row of doors connecting it to the nave (prayer hall). A ramp at the northern end of the inner narthex leads to the upper gallery, which can’t be missed on your visit. (Note: The inner narthex is now accessible to worshippers only. In the past, tourists used the ramp from the inner narthex to access the upper gallery, but there’s now a different tourist entrance.)
The decorations in the inner narthex date back to the Byzantine period. There are still crosses visible above some of the doors, and there are beautiful marble panels along the walls.
Imperial Gate
The largest door in the inner narthex is the Imperial Gate. The wooden door dates back to 6th century, stands seven meters high, and leads to the nave. During the Byzantine period, only the emperor was allowed to pass through the door, which is crowned by the Mosaic of the Imperial Gate.
Unfortunately, the wooden door of the Imperial Gate has sustained damage from disrespectful worshippers and tourists ever since Hagia Sophia was re-converted to a mosque. I was disgusted to see the damage firsthand during recent visits to the building in May 2022 and June 2023.
Mosaic of the Imperial Gate
Above the Imperial Gate is the Mosaic of the Imperial Gate, which was completed in the late 9th century. It depicts either Byzantine Emperor Leo VI or his son, Constantine VII Porphyrogenitus, kneeling before Christ. Archangel Gabriel and the Virgin Mary are depicted in medallions on either side of Christ. “May peace be with you. I am the Divine Light.” is written on the Bible. (Note: Tourists are no longer able to see this incredible mosaic in person.)
Nave of Hagia Sophia
I can’t describe the feeling I got when I set foot in the nave of Hagia Sophia for the first time. It was bigger and more awe-inspiring than I had ever imagined. How could a building of this magnitude be built 15 centuries ago? How could it stand the test of time, through earthquakes, wars, and human interference? The exterior is one thing, but the interior is even more spectacular. (Note: Only worshippers are allowed to enter the ground floor of the nave/prayer hall, stand directly underneath the dome, and get close to the features listed below. Tourists can only view it from the upper gallery.)
Passing through the Imperial Gate from the inner narthex into the nave, or naos, is capable of giving any visitor goosebumps. Try imagining the scene on May 29, 1453. Sultan Mehmed II’s Ottoman army breached the previously impenetrable Walls of Constantinople after a 53-day siege. Frightened Constantinopolitans ran to Hagia Sophia and other churches to take refuge and bolted the doors.
Shortly after, the Ottoman troops battered down the doors of the temple to find the citizens celebrating the Divine Liturgy. The soldiers looted the church, raped the women, and slaughtered the elderly and sick. Priests continued to perform Christian rites until they were forced to stop. The Sultan entered the church and demanded it immediately be converted to a mosque. An ulama climbed the pulpit and recited the Shahada, ending over 900 years of Hagia Sophia’s existence as a church.
Dome of Hagia Sophia
The marble pillars and arches are quite a sight, but the dome is the most striking feature of Hagia Sophia. It stands 55.6 meters above the ground and roughly 31 meters across, resting on several windows to allow natural light to enter the building. Parts of it have collapsed a few times due to earthquakes and the repairs have left it with more of an oblong shape, but it’s still impressive.
The last major renovation of Hagia Sophia occurred between 1847 and 1849 under Abdülmecid I. During the renovation, Ottoman calligrapher Kazasker Mustafa Izzet Efendi (1801-1876) wrote the 35th verse of the Quran on the dome. A mosaic of Christ Pantocrator is believed to be underneath, but uncovering it would mean destroying priceless Islamic artwork.
Seraphim Images
Four Seraphim (six-winged angel) images decorate the corners near the dome. They date to the 14th century and were rediscovered by the Fossati brothers during 1847 renovations. They had been covered by metallic lids since Hagia Sophia was converted to a mosque. The angels on the east are original mosaics while the angels on the west were recreated as frescoes by the Fossatis.
Calligraphic Medallions
Gigantic calligraphic medallions decorate columns around the nave of Hagia Sophia. During a major renovation between 1847 and 1849, Sultan Abdülmecid I added eight new calligraphic medallions. They’re the largest in the Islamic world at 7.5 meters in diameter.
The medallions were made by Kazasker Mustafa Izzet Efendi. They contain the names of Allah and Muhammad; the first four caliphs Abu Bakr, Umar, Uthman, and Ali; and Muhammad’s grandchildren Hassan and Hussein.
Omphalion
In 1935, Mustafa Kemal Atatürk (1881-1938) turned Hagia Sophia into a museum. He had the carpets removed to expose the marble floors for the first time in hundreds of years. This made it possible to see the Omphalion, which is the spot where Byzantine emperors were coronated.
Muezzin’s Loge
Just past the Omphalion is the Muezzin’s Loge, which is made of marble and dates back to the 16th century. It was built under Murad III, and was where the muezzin would pray during prayers and other religious ceremonies.
Mihrab
Behind the spot where the Christian altar once stood, an Islamic mihrab indicating the direction towards Mecca was installed after the Ottoman conquest of Constantinople in 1453. The mihrab is made of marble and was renovated in the 19th century. Nothing remains of the original Christian altar.
Huge candles stand on each side of the mihrab. They were brought to Constantinople by Grand Vizier Ibrahim Pasha (c. 1495-1536) after the conquest of Buda under Süleyman the Magnificent. They originally belonged to the court church of Hungarian King Matthias I.
Behind the mihrab are beautiful stained glass windows added by the Ottomans. Hanging on the right side are calligraphic panels written by three different Ottoman sultans: Mahmud II, Ahmed III, and Mustafa II. There are also 16th century Iznik tile panels on both sides of the mihrab.
Minbar
The minbar (pulpit) stands to the right of the mihrab. It’s made of marble and dates back to the 16th century during the reign of Murad III.
Apse
Above the mihrab is the apse, which contains a mosaic of the Virgin and Child. This mosaic is very important because it was the very first one created after Iconoclasm. It was unveiled on March 29, 867, by Patriarch Photios I and Emperors Michael III and Basil I. (Note: The mosaic is covered by sheets now that Hagia Sophia has been re-converted to a mosque. You can get a glimpse of it from the upper gallery.)
Sultan’s Loge
The Sultan’s Loge is to the left of the mihrab. The Sultan would perform his prayers there. Nobody is sure who built it or when it was built.
Lustration Urns
Two huge lustration urns carved out of a single block of marble were relocated to Hagia Sophia from Pergamon by Sultan Murad III. They were made around 330 BC and can hold 1,250 liters. They were used to distribute juice to worshippers during Islamic holidays and celebrations. The urns sit on the west side of the nave a few steps from the Imperial Gate.
Library of Mahmud I
In 1739, Sultan Mahmud I built a library inside Hagia Sophia on the south side of the building. The Library of Mahmud I is decorated with 18th century Iznik and Kütahya tiles.
Wishing Column
Finally, on the northwest corner of the nave of Hagia Sophia is a column with a small hole in the middle. Usually there’s a long line leading to it. It’s covered by a bronze plate and hard to miss. The Wishing Column is damp when touched and is said to have healing powers.
According to one legend, the dampness is caused by the tears of the Virgin Mary. Visitors would put their finger in the hole and rub the moisture on the part of their body that was ailing, hoping for a cure. Nowadays, people put their thumb in the hole and make a complete clockwise turn for good luck.
Upper Gallery of Hagia Sophia
The upper gallery is where some of the best perspectives and many of the building’s greatest treasures can be found. Currently, the only way to visit the upper gallery is to purchase a ticket and climb up the ramp inside the tourist entrance.
Burial Arcosolium
On the ramp up to the upper gallery, you’ll pass a burial arcosolium. Important people were buried in these chambers during the Byzantine period.
Mosaic of Emperor Alexander
The mosaic of Emperor Alexander is a little hard to find. It’s hidden away in a blind corner in the first section of the upper gallery after climbing up the ramp. It depicts Alexander, who ruled for 13 months and died after a game of tzykanion (polo) on June 6, 913. The mosaic dates back to the 10th century and is one of the best-preserved in Hagia Sophia. Rather than being plastered over like the rest, this one was painted over.
Empress’ Loge
In the center of the upper gallery is where the Empress’ Loge was located. The Byzantine empress would sit on a throne next to the ladies of her court and watch the church services down below. The view is spectacular from there.
Patriarch’s Office
On the southwest corner of the upper gallery is the door to the Patriarch’s office and the other offices of the Ecumenical Patriarchate of Constantinople. It’s closed to the public and it isn’t known what’s behind those doors today besides storage space.
Marble Door
Also on the southwest corner is the beautiful marble door to the meeting chamber of the Holy and Sacred Synod. The Synod is a council made up of the Ecumenical Patriarch and a group of bishops. They’ve met since the 4th century to make decisions about issues under the jurisdiction of the Patriarch.
Viking Graffiti
After passing through the Marble Door, the tourist path leads past the railing overlooking the nave. Graffiti made by Viking mercenaries can be found on the center of the marble bannister. All of them are illegible except for one that translates to “Halvdan was here”. The graffiti is from the 9th century and is attributed to the Varangian Guard, a regiment of Vikings that fought for and protected the Byzantine Emperor from the 10th to 14th centuries, and as early as the 9th century.
Northern Tympanum Mosaics
Looking across to the northern tympanum, on the opposite side of the nave, are niches with mosaics of some of the most important church fathers. Unfortunately, due to earthquakes, only three survive in good condition. They depict St. John Chrysostom, St. Ignatius Theophoros, and St. Ignatius the Younger. The photos below were taken before Hagia Sophia was reconverted to a mosque. These mosaics are now partially covered by iron railings.
Komnenos Mosaic
At the southeast end of the upper gallery are a few mosaics featuring Byzantine Emperors and Empresses with religious figures. First is the Komnenos mosaic. It dates back to 1122 and depicts Emperor Ioannis II Komnenos, the Virgin and Child, and Empress Irene.
Komnenos is shown holding a purse, which indicates a large imperial donation to the church. Irene, who was of Hungarian origin and the daughter of King László of Hungary, is shown with long braided red hair and rosy cheeks. Their son Alexios Komnenos, who was coronated as co-emperor with his father at the age of 17, is displayed on a side panel to the right.
Empress Zoe Mosaic
The Empress Zoe mosaic features Christ Pantocrator with Empress Zoe Porphyrogenita and her third husband, Constantine IX Monomachos. Constantine is holding a purse, indicating a large imperial donation to the church, while Zoe is holding a scroll, indicating donations she has made. The inscription above the Emperor says “Constantine, pious emperor in Christ the God, king of the Romans, Monomachos”. The inscription above the Empress says “Zoe, the very pious Augusta”.
The heads on this mosaic are not original to the bodies and there are two theories why. One is that they were made for an earlier emperor and empress and were changed for Zoe. Another is that they originally depicted Zoe’s first husband, Romanos III Argyros, or her second husband, Michael IV, and they were changed to depict Constantine IX.
Mosaics of Archangels in the Apse
The upper gallery is also the best place to spot the mosaics of Archangels Gabriel and Michael in the apse. The Michael mosaic on the left is largely destroyed with only his foot and part of a wing remaining. The Gabriel mosaic on the right is in much better condition. (Note: The mosaics are covered by sheets now that Hagia Sophia has been re-converted to a mosque.)
Views of the Blue Mosque
Looking out the windows on the south side of the upper gallery, it’s possible to get a good view of the Blue Mosque. The mosque was built to rival the grandeur of Hagia Sophia. (Note: The windows have been roped off and are no longer approachable.)
Grave of Enrico Dandolo
Following the tourist route back towards the Marble Door is a gravestone for Enrico Dandolo (1107-1205). Dandolo was the Doge of Venice and commanded the Fourth Crusade. Blind and 97 years old at the time, he was responsible for the Sack of Constantinople and looting Hagia Sophia in 1204. The Byzantine Empire went into exile in Nicaea (Iznik) and the Latin Empire ruled Constantinople until 1261. Dandolo died in 1205 and was buried in the church, but his tomb was later destroyed by the Ottomans. The gravestone is believed to be near the actual tomb.
Deësis Mosaic
The next impressive mosaic of the upper gallery of Hagia Sophia is just inside the Marble Door. It’s called the Deësis (‘Δέησις) and was probably made in 1261. It depicts Christ Pantocrator with the Virgin Mary to his left and St. John the Baptist to his right. They’re praying to Christ for the mercy of the people during doomsday. The mosaic is incomplete, but a small picture of a completed version is on display to show how it may have looked.
Special Details
If you keep your eyes open while visiting the upper gallery, you’ll find some interesting minor details. First, pay special attention to the slabs of marble floor. You might be able to spot the initials of the workers who carved their names into the floors while Hagia Sophia was being built.
Second, look closely at the column capitals. They contain the monograms of the builder of the church, Justinian I, and his wife Theodora.
Finally, look at the walls and arches throughout the upper gallery. You might spot paint that has been peeled back revealing an older layer underneath. The decorations and mosaics at Hagia Sophia have been under restoration since the 1930s and more surprises are being uncovered over the years.
Tourist Exit from the Upper Gallery of Hagia Sophia
After passing back through the Marble Door, you’ll find the tourist exit. It leads from the upper gallery back down to the ground level where the southwest vestibule awaits.
Southwest Vestibule of Hagia Sophia
The southwest vestibule is connected to the inner narthex. Tourists can visit it after walking down from the upper gallery. It contains a few important features.
Beautiful Door
The Beautiful Door is actually the oldest architectural element of Hagia Sophia. It was originally part of a 2nd century BC Hellenistic temple in Tarsus. It was added to the building in 838 by Emperor Theophilos.
Mosaic of the Southwest Vestibule
Above the door to the inner narthex is one of the best-preserved mosaics in the building. Dating back to the 10th century and the reign of Basil II, it was rediscovered by the Fossati brothers in 1849.
The mosaic features the Virgin and Child in the center. To the left is Justinian I presenting a model of Hagia Sophia and the inscription “Famous Emperor Justinian”. To the right is Constantine presenting a model of his city and the inscription “Among the saints is great Emperor Constantine”.
Quote by the Prophet Muhammad
Finally, just outside the southwest vestibule is a quote by the Prophet Muhammad on the conquest of Constantinople: “Constantinople shall be surely conquered; how blessed the commander who will conquer it, how blessed his army.”
Outbuildings at Hagia Sophia
While the interior of Hagia Sophia is the highlight of your visit, there are a few important features and additions on the exterior. You’ll notice a few of them while exiting the complex. Others are usually inaccessible.
Courtyard of the Baptistry
First, just outside the southwest vestibule is the courtyard of the baptistry. It contains an original baptismal font that may predate the building.
The actual Byzantine baptistry now holds the tombs of two sultans. There’s also a Byzantine sarcophagus and several large jugs on display.
Fountains
A fountain was constructed under Mahmud I in 1740. It’s considered one of the most beautiful fountains in the city. An 18th century ablutions fountain sits nearby.
Primary School
A primary school built by Sultan Mahmud I in 1740 sits next to the fountain. It was used as a school until Hagia Sophia was turned into a museum. It now houses offices.
Timing Room
The timing room (muvakkithane) was built in 1853 under Abdülmecid I. The architects were the Fossati brothers, who were in charge of repair and restoration of the building at that time. It’s currently used as an office.
Almshouse
One of the outbuildings behind Hagia Sophia is the almshouse (imarethane). It was built in 1743 under Sultan Mahmud I in order to distribute food to orphans and the poor.
The almshouse, which once hosted the Carpet Museum, is made up of three sections: a dining room (me’kelhane), kitchen (aşhane), and bakery (fodlahane). If you have a chance to visit the bakery, it’s possible to see the ovens.
Treasury
Attached to the back of Hagia Sophia is the treasury (skevophylakion). It’s a large circular building in the courtyard of the almshouse.
The treasury once held the items used for church services as well as other valuables. The Ottomans used it as provision storage for the almshouse.
Addition on the East Side
There’s an office on the east side of the building that I can’t find information about.
Tombs of Ottoman Sultans at Hagia Sophia
The Hagia Sophia complex contains the tombs of five Ottoman Sultans. The tombs are located in a small courtyard outside the southeast corner of the building. To visit the tombs, visitors must dress appropriately and remove their shoes before entering each tomb, just like visiting a mosque. The sarcophagi of the sultans and princes (şehzadeler) are marked with turbans.
Tomb of Mehmed III
The first tomb at Hagia Sophia belongs to Mehmed III. It was built by architect Dalgıç Ahmed Ağa (d. 1608). There are a total of 26 sarcophagi in the tomb, including Handan Sultan (c. 1658-1605), the mother of Ahmed I; his daughter Ayşe Sultan (c. 1587 – after 1614); children of Ahmed I; and several other children. Click here for a virtual tour.
Biography of Mehmed III
Mehmed III (b. 1566, Manisa – d. 1603, Constantinople) was the 13th Ottoman Sultan (r. 1595-1603). He was mostly known for having 19 of his siblings and over 20 half-siblings strangled to keep the throne. Mehmed III was very overweight and very unhealthy, but was the first Ottoman Sultan to personally command the army since his great-grandfather, Süleyman the Magnificent. His fourth son, Ahmed I, the builder of the Blue Mosque, succeeded him.
Tomb of Selim II
The next tomb at Hagia Sophia belongs to Selim II. It’s considered one of the most beautiful tombs in Istanbul. It was commissioned before his death, designed by Mimar Sinan (1490-1588), and completed in 1577.
There are 42 sarcophagi in all, including Selim II’s wife and the mother of Murad III, Nurbanu Sultan (c. 1525-1583); his daughters Gevherhan Sultan (c. 1544 – c. 1624), Ismihan Sultan (1545-1585), and Fatma Sultan (c. 1558-1580); his sons Süleyman (1571-1574), Osman (1573-1574), Cihangir (1574), Mustafa, and Abdullah (1571-1574), who were all executed by Murad III upon his accession to the throne; and several children of Murad III. Click here for a virtual tour.
Biography of Selim II
Selim II (b. 1524, Constantinople – d. 1574, Constantinople) was the 11th Ottoman Sultan (r. 1566-1574). His nicknames were Sarhoş (Drunk) Selim and Sarı (Yellow) Selim. As a ruler, Selim II wasn’t very successful. He could never live up to his father, Süleyman the Magnificent, although he was well-liked because of his generosity and sensitivity. He was the first sultan who wasn’t interested in military matters or governing. His Grand Vizier, Sokollu Mehmed Pasha (1506-1579), was pretty much in charge. He died after slipping on a wet floor while drunk. Selim II was responsible for the second minaret constructed at Hagia Sophia.
Tomb of Murad III
The third tomb is that of Murad III. The tomb was designed by Davud Ağa (c. 1540-1599) and his assistant, Dalgıç Ahmed Ağa. Buried with him are 53 other individuals, including his wife Safiye Sultan (c. 1550-1619), several of his children, and women of his court. Click here for a virtual tour.
Biography of Murad III
Murad III (b. 1546, Manisa – d. 1595, Constantinople) was the 12th Ottoman Sultan (r. 1574-1595). He ascended the throne by having his five younger brothers strangled. His reign was marked by long wars, high inflation, and a period of economic decline for the Ottoman Empire. He was close with Queen Elizabeth I of England and pursued military ties with her, but they never panned out.
Murad III had plans to explore and colonize North America, but had to abandon them after Spain attacked the Ottoman fleet. He was responsible for the construction of the final two minarets of Hagia Sophia and for transporting two alabaster vases from Pergamon to be placed in the prayer hall.
Murad III was paranoid of his Janissaries and believed they would overthrow him if he left Topkapi Palace. During the last few years of his reign, he never left the palace. It’s said that he had a voracious sexual appetite and may have fathered over 100 children by the time he died of natural causes.
Tomb of Princes
The small tomb next to Murad III’s belongs to four of his sons and one of his daughters. They died very young from plague. It’s believed that the tomb was originally built by Mimar Sinan for Nurbanu Sultan, Murad III’s mother. The tomb is very plain on the inside. For a virtual tour, click here.
Former Baptistry of Hagia Sophia
The final tomb is a structure original to the Byzantine period and was once used as a baptistry for Hagia Sophia. After Ottoman conquest in 1453 until 1639, it was used to store oil for lamps. Two of the worst yet most intriguing rulers of the Ottoman Empire, Mustafa I and Ibrahim, are now entombed there. Their stories couldn’t have been written even by Hollywood.
Biography of Mustafa I
Mustafa I (b. 1591, Manisa – d. 1639, Constantinople) was the 15th Ottoman Sultan (r. 1617-1618, 1622-1623). His nickname was Mustafa I Deli (Mustafa the Mad). The younger brother of Ahmed I, he was mentally ill yet reigned twice. He took the throne in 1617 in the first case of a sultan being succeeded by his brother rather than his son. His mental condition a great concern, Mustafa I was deposed in 1618 in favor of his nephew, Osman II.
After Osman II was executed in 1622 by his Janissaries, Mustafa I was restored as a puppet ruler controlled by his mother, Halime Sultan (c. 1570 – after 1623), and his Grand Vizier, Kara Davud Pasha (1570-1623). He spent the year wandering around Topkapi Palace knocking on doors and calling out Osman II’s name, asking his nephew to relieve him of the throne. A revolt took place, Kara Davud Pasha was executed, and Mustafa I’s mother agreed on his deposition in return for sparing his life. 11-year-old Murad IV took the throne, and Mustafa I died imprisoned at Topkapi Palace 16 years later.
Biography of Ibrahim
The other sultan entombed in the former baptistry is Ibrahim (b. 1615, Constantinople – d. 1648, Constantinople), the 18th Ottoman sultan (r. 1640-1648). Like Mustafa I, he was mentally unstable. His nickname was Ibrahim the Mad (Deli İbrahim) and he was the son of Ahmed I. He was terrified of being executed at the hands of his other brother, Murad IV, just as four of his brothers had been. There was some truth to his paranoia, as it was believed that Murad IV gave orders on his deathbed to execute Ibrahim I. The orders were never carried out as it would have meant the end of the Ottoman line.
Ibrahim refused to believe that Murad IV was dead and thought it was part of a plot to kill him. He wouldn’t take the throne until he personally examined his brother’s dead body. He also had an obsession for obese women. His subjects tracked down a 330 lb. woman from Georgia to quench the obsession.
Ibrahim was concerned with his duties as sultan and would often wander around the city in disguise, but his lavish spending almost singlehandedly destroyed the empire. After getting caught up in a long war with the Republic of Venice, which created scarcities and high taxes, he was deposed and executed with the consent of his mother, Kösem Sultan (c. 1589-1651). He was replaced with his six-year-old son, Mehmed IV. 10 days before he was deposed, a rumor circulated that he drowned 280 members of his Harem in the Bosporus, but it was only spread to further destroy his reputation.
Buried alongside Mustafa I and Ibrahim are 17 others, including the daughter of Murad IV, Kaya Sultan (c. 1633-1658); children of Ahmed II; and members of the court.
