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Çırağan Palace (Çırağan Sarayı) is a former Ottoman palace in Istanbul, Turkey. It’s located in the Yıldız neighborhood of the Beşiktaş district and best seen from the Bosporus. On the hill just inland is Yıldız Park.
History of Çırağan Palace
Çırağan Palace sits on what was known as the Kazancıoğlu Gardens (Kazancıoğlu Bahçeleri) in the 17th century. Sultan Ahmed III gifted the land to his Grand Vizier Nevşehirli Damat Ibrahim Pasha (c. 1662-1730) in the early 18th century. He then built the first mansion on the site for his wife Fatma Sultan (1704-1733), who also happened to be the Sultan’s daughter. They would organize “Çırağan Festivals”, and the area started to be called “Çırağan”, meaning “lights” in Persian.
Sultan Mahmud II decided to build his own mansion in the area in 1834. He demolished the original mansion and other buildings around it, and built a stone structure with 40 columns. Sultan Abdülmecid I had that mansion demolished in 1857 and planned to build another Western-style structure, but construction was left unfinished due to a combination of his death and financial difficulties.
The project was completed by Sultan Abdülaziz between 1863 and 1867. Ottoman Armenian architect Sarkis Balyan (1835-1899) designed the palace and oversaw construction along with his brother Hagop (1838-1875). The outer walls of the main building were made of marble and the inner walls and roof were made of wood. The final decorations were completed in 1871.
Destruction of Çırağan Palace
On November 14, 1909, Sultan Mehmed V allowed Ottoman Parliament to hold their meetings at Çırağan Palace. Two months later, however, it was gutted by a fire that broke out on January 19, 1910. The fire started from an overheated chimney and destroyed the palace in just five hours, leaving only the outer walls intact. The private art collection of Sultan Abdülhamid II, including works by Rembrandt (1606-1669) and Ivan Aivazovsky (1817-1900), as well as the library of Murad V, were both lost.
During the occupation of Istanbul after World War I, the ruins of the palace were used as a barracks by French troops. In 1930, the Beşiktaş football club cut down trees and briefly used it as Şeref Stadium (Şeref Stadyumu). Turkish architect Sedat Hakkı Eldem (1908-1988) carried out excavations in 1946 search of gold, in the process destroying the tombs of Mevlevi dervishes in the basement. The palace became property of the city that same year.
From Palace to Hotel
The palace laid in ruins for several years until a Japanese company purchased it in 1987. They restored it and opened it to the public as the Çırağan Palace Kempinski. A modern hotel wing was built next door, opening in 1990, while the palace opened in 1992. The palace building serves as the luxury wing and contains 11 suites and two restaurants.
The Sultan Suite is one of the most expensive hotel suites in the world. It measures 459 square meters (4,929 square feet) and includes a large hall, a living room with a dining area for 12, a kitchenette, a guest bathroom, and two bedrooms. It also offers panoramic views of the Bosporus and a chauffeur-driven 1974 Rolls Royce to any point in the city.
I only visited Çırağan Palace a couple times while I was living in Istanbul. Once was to get poolside drinks at the modern wing. I also picked up a guest and escorted him to a conference. I only snapped a few photos during those visits.
Bridge to Yıldız Park
While traveling to the palace, you’ll probably notice a beautiful bridge crossing Çırağan Avenue. The bridge links Yıldız Park to Çırağan Palace.
Beşiktaş Anatolian High School
Just west of the hotel is the Beşiktaş Anatolian High School, which is one of the most prestigious schools in Turkey. It was founded in 1937 and moved into the current building for the 1940-41 academic year. The building itself was originally built in 1871 under Sultan Abdülaziz as an addition to Çırağan Palace and was later used as a harem. It was designed by Sarkis Balyan.
Sultan Murad V, who succeeded his uncle Abdülaziz, lived in the building as a prisoner for 28 years, from 1876 until his death in 1904. He was deposed after just 93 days on grounds of insanity. His room is now used as the school’s canteen.
Ziya Kalkavan High School
To the east is the Ziya Kalkavan Vocational and Technical Anatolian High School (Ziya Kalkavan Mesleki ve Teknik Anadolu Lisesi). It’s housed in some annex buildings that once belonged to Çırağan Palace, including the Imperial Kitchen (Matbah-ı Âmire) and Imperial Stables (Istabl-ı Âmire).
The school was founded in 1909 by Captain Hamîd Naci Bey (1854-1937) as the National Trade, Naval, and Engineering School (Milli Ticareti Bahriye ve Çarkçı Mektebi Alisi). It was originally located in Azapkapı, then transferred to Üsküdar and finally its current location in 1927. The government took over in 1928, and in 1985 it became a four-year maritime high school. It was renamed in 1993 for Ziya Kalkavan (1911-1992), a Turkish business leader in the maritime sector. The school is regarded as the foremost maritime school in Turkey.
