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Üsküdar, one of the most colorful neighborhoods in Istanbul, sits on the Asian shores of the Bosphorus. It’s the main part of the Üsküdar district.
Introduction to Üsküdar
Üsküdar is a more conservative area of the city that captures the old world feeling that has gone missing from many historical neighborhoods on the European side. Crowded and full of action but not chaotic, there are plenty of things to see and do. It’s a great place to spend a day wandering.
Üsküdar was founded by the ancient Greeks as Chrysópolis (Χρυσόπολις). During the Byzantine period, the name changed to Skoutárion (Σκουτάριον), and later Scutari. It was conquered by the Ottomans 100 years before they took Constantinople.
Naturally, you would expect there to be lots of historic places. Barely anything from Byzantine period exists, but there are several important Ottoman mosques that are well worth visiting. Most are within reasonable walking distance from the ferry terminal.
Aside from the historic mosques, two more things I love about Üsküdar are the shoreline path with spectacular views of the European side and the bustling markets. You may also see some fishermen. This is a common scene all up and down the Bosphorus. There’s something idyllic about patiently waiting for a nibble while looking across to another continent as a ferry shuffles past.
Getting to Üsküdar
The most enjoyable way to arrive is via ferry to Üsküdar Square, which is one of the main transportation hubs on the Asian side. There’s frequent service on the Istanbul City Ferry Lines (İstanbul Şehir Hatları) and Turyol ferries from Karaköy and Eminönü (as of March 2025). Dentur Avrasya provides service from Beşiktaş and Kabataş (as of March 2025).
The Marmaray gets you across the Bosphorus from the European side or other points on the Asian side. There’s access to the M5 metro line via Üsküdar station, and it’s also possible to take a dolmuş from Taksim Square or Kadıköy.
Üsküdar Square
Üsküdar Square (Üsküdar Meydanı) is the main square in Üsküdar. It’s a transportation hub and several attractions are on or near the square. If you’re arriving by ferry, it’s a great experience for first time visitors to explore this area before getting deeper into the neighborhood.
Starting near the ferry terminal, there’s a small area with snack bars, street vendors, flower sellers, and benches to sit. It’s a great place for people watching. There are also lots of people fishing right along the Bosphorus.
Üsküdar Square is a great place to sit and enjoy the views across the Bosphorus. Some of the landmarks you can easily spot are Dolmabahçe Palace, Beşiktaş Stadium, and the buildings at Taksim Square.
Fountain of Ahmed III
In front of the Mihrimah Sultan Mosque is the Fountain of Ahmed III (III. Ahmed Çeşmesi). It was built by Sultan Ahmed III in 1728 to honor his mother, Gülnuş Sultan (1642-1715). It was designed by Ottoman court architect Kayserili Mehmed Ağa (d. 1742), and contains poetry verses and calligraphy by Ahmed III himself.
The fountain provided drinking water for travelers and for people to complete their ritual ablutions before praying. It was originally right on the waterfront but due to redevelopment of the area, the fountain was dismantled and moved to its current location in 1932-33.
Mihrimah Sultan Mosque
The Mihrimah Sultan Mosque (Mihrimah Sultan Camii) is one of three Ottoman mosques on Üsküdar Square. It was commissioned by Mihrimah Sultan (1522-1578), the daughter of Süleyman the Magnificent and the wife of Grand Vizier Rüstem Pasha (c. 1505-1561). In addition to the mosque in Üsküdar, Mihrimah Sultan also built another larger mosque of the same name at Edirnekapı.
The architect was Mimar Sinan (1490-1588) and the mosque was built between 1543 and 1548. It was constructed at the same time as the Şehzade Mosque. The mosque complex consisted of a madrasa, medical school, primary school, and caravanserai. Only some of these structure have survived, while the madrasa is used today as a health center. Before the coastal road was built, the mosque was directly on the water.
The ablution fountain (şadırvan) sits under a pavilion extending from the porch. It has 20 corners and is made of marble.
The entrance to the prayer hall sits behind a double portico. The grave of Sultanzade Osman Bey (1546-1576) is underneath the minaret on the southwest corner of the portico.
The prayer hall itself is beautifully decorated. It features a marble minbar and is topped by a dome 10 meters in diameter. The exterior height of the dome is 24.2 meters (79 feet).
Burials at the Mihrimah Sultan Mosque
In the outer courtyard is a tomb containing the burials of two men and two women. Two of these graves purportedly belong to Mihrimah Sultan’s daughter, Ayşe Hümaşah Sultan (1541-1604), and Sinâneddin Yusuf Pasha, but this has never been confirmed.
Nearby is the tomb of Grand Vizier Ibrahim Edhem Pasha (1819-1893), who’s buried with three family members. The grave of Sinan Pasha (d. 1553), the brother of Rüstem Pasha and Grand Admiral (Kaptan-ı Derya) of the Ottoman Navy, is in the small cemetery next to the tomb.
Selman Ağa Mosque
Continuing clockwise around Üsküdar Square is the Selman Ağa Mosque (Selman Ağa Camii). It was built by Selman Ağa, the Chief Black Eunuch of the Imperial Harem at Topkapi Palace under Sultan Bayezid II.
Construction began in 1506 and it was completed in November that same year. Selman Ağa, who was executed by Bayezid II in 1508, is buried next to the mosque. The building is made of stone and brick and the roof and minbar are wooden.
Yeni Valide Mosque
The Yeni Valide Mosque (Yeni Valide Camii) is another mosque on Üsküdar Square. It was built by Sultan Ahmed III in honor of his mother, Emetullah Râbia Gülnûş Sultan (1642-1715). She was also the mother of Mustafa II and the consort of Mehmed IV.
The architect of the complex was likely Kayserili Mehmed Ağa (d. 1742). Construction began on November 7, 1708, and it opened for worship on March 5, 1711.
Mosque Complex
The mosque complex included fountains, a timing room, primary school, soup kitchen (imaret) and shops. The soup kitchen was built outside the complex facing Üsküdar Square and has a fountain on the southwest corner that was added later.
The primary school sits atop the main gate to the outer courtyard. It’s on a rectangular plan and consists of two vaulted classrooms. The seven vaulted spaces extending from the school were shops that provided income for the upkeep of the mosque.
The imperial pavilion is attached to the mosque on the east side of the outer courtyard. It’s a wooden structure standing on columns with access to the Sultan’s loge inside the prayer hall.
Courtyard of the Yeni Valide Mosque
The mosque features a monumental entrance to the inner courtyard, which is raised from ground level. The inscription above the gate was written by calligrapher Bursalı Hezarfen Mehmed Efendi (d. 1740).
An ablution fountain (şadırvan) sits in the center of the inner courtyard and there’s an arcade with domed bays on all four sides.
The entrance portal is under the domed arcade opposite the monumental entrance. It contains an inscription directly above.
Prayer Hall of the Yeni Valide Mosque
The prayer hall is beautifully decorated with floral patterns and calligraphy by Hezarfen Mehmed Efendi. There are aisles on each side and a women’s prayer area on the right aisle and upper level.
The prayer hall is topped by a single dome supported by four semi-domes. The main dome has 24 windows in the drum while each semi-dome has 3 windows.
The mihrab and minbar are both finely crafted out of marble. On the left side of the prayer hall you’ll find the Sultan’s loge, which is behind a gilded screen and features its own prayer niche.
I enjoyed spending time inside as it was easily one of the most peaceful and quiet places I could find in such a bustling city. Outside, people hurry by trying to get to work or the markets while traffic zooms past. Once inside, I could hear only the ticking of the clock. It was a great place for me to sit and reflect.
Tomb of Gülnuş Sultan
Gülnuş Sultan is buried in an open-air tomb behind the mosque, attached to the exterior wall of the complex. The tomb was built in 1715 and features intricate metal latticework and columns with pointed arches. Next to it is a public water dispenser as well as another fountain built in 1709.
Balaban Lodge
On the square in front of the Yeni Valide Mosque is the Balaban Lodge (Balaban Tekkesi). It was a dervish lodge originally built in 1637. The building was reconstructed in 2009 based on old photographs.
Şemsi Pasha Mosque
The Şemsi Pasha Mosque (Şemsi Paşa Camii) has an amazing location along the Bosphorus on the west side of the square. This tiny mosque is a minor work of Mimar Sinan (1490-1588). It was commissioned by Grand Vizier Şemsi Ahmed Pasha (d. 1580) and built between 1580 and 1581. It’s one of the smallest mosques in Istanbul built for a Grand Vizier.
The dome of the mosque is 8.2 meters (27 feet) in diameter. The tomb of Şemsi Ahmed Pasha is attached to the prayer hall. There’s a small Ottoman cemetery outside containing the graves of his descendants.
Rum Mehmed Pasha Mosque
The Rum Mehmed Pasha Mosque (Rum Mehmet Paşa Camii) is perched on a hill just above the Şemsi Pasha Mosque. It was built between 1469 and 1471 for Rum Mehmed Pasha (d. 1470), a Grand Vizier of Greek descent under Sultan Mehmed II.
The mosque, which was restored in 1953, was part of a complex containing a madrasa, hamam, and soup kitchen, but only the mosque survives today. The madrasa was probably located to the northwest and the soup kitchen was also nearby. The hamam was a double bath that was one of the oldest in Üsküdar. It was restored in 1886 and was demolished sometime after that.
The Rum Mehmed Pasha Mosque was one of the first Islamic religious buildings constructed in the city after the Fall of Constantinople. It’s entered through an arched portico with five domed bays.
The mosque is on an inverted T plan with four small domed rooms attached to the prayer hall. The central dome is supported by a semi-dome. You’ll notice in the photos below, taken over 12 years apart, that arched windows were added above the rectangular ones as well as a new lighting system.
Rum Mehmed Pasha was executed by drowning in 1470 and is buried in an octagonal domed tomb next to the mosque. His relatives are buried in a small cemetery next to the tomb.
Istanbul Kite Museum
Hidden down one of the back streets a few blocks away is the Istanbul Kite Museum (İstanbul Uçurtma Müzesi). This kid-friendly museum was founded in 2005 by Mehmet Naci Aköz. It displays some of the 2,500 kites and accessories he collected from 33 countries on six continents. In addition to the museum, there’s also the Kite School (Uçurtma Atölyesi). The museum is open daily except Sundays and reservations are required. Admission is free (as of March 2025).
Uncular Street
A block north of the Kite Museum and a block south of the Yeni Valide Mosque you’ll find Uncular Street (Uncular Caddesi). It’s known as the gastronomic heart of Üsküdar and is lined with cafés, pastry shops, and restaurants. The alley leading to the Yeni Valide Mosque and around the corner contains even more places to discover.
Üsküdar Shoreline
A beautiful shoreline promenade starts next to the Şemsi Pasha Mosque and continues around to the south along the Bosphorus to Salacak Pier. It’s a great place to take a walk and enjoy the scenery of Istanbul.
Near the north end of the promenade, on either side of the Bosphorus Traffic Signaling Tower (Boğaz Trafik Sinyalizasyon Kulesi) you’ll notice the numbers 1453 and 1923. They represent significant dates in Turkish history. 1453 marks the Ottoman conquest of Constantinople while 1923 marks the foundation of the Turkish Republic.
As you walk along the promenade, you can’t help but notice the breathtaking views of the Bosphorus across to the European side. Several important landmarks and areas can easily be spotted.
At the south end of the promenade is the ticket booth for the Maiden’s Tower. The whole area has been modernized and now contains benches and railings.
In the past, there were a few spots serving nargile, tea (çay), and Turkish coffee (Türk kahvesi) on some benches built along the steps. It would get crowded and service could be slow on a Sunday, but it was a great setting right on the Bosphorus.
Ayazma Mosque
Standing on a hill proudly above the Bosphorus is the Ayazma Mosque (Ayazma Camii). It was built by Sultan Mustafa III in memory of his mother, Mihrişah Kadın (d. 1732), and his brother, Şehzade Süleyman. The architect was likely Mehmed Tahir Ağa (d. 1788). Construction began on March 29, 1758, and it opened in January 1761.
The Ayazma Mosque was part of a complex that contained a hamam, caravanserai, primary school and shops. None have survived. According to historical documents, it stands on the site of the Ayazma Palace (Ayazma Sarayı), which was the residence of the Iranian ambassador. The mosque was repaired several times over the years and the minaret had to be rebuilt twice. It closed for restoration in 2014 and reopened for worship in August 2022.
Features of the Ayazma Mosque
A monumental entrance leads to a peaceful courtyard with a garden and cemetery surrounding the mosque. It’s a great place to admire the structure’s elaborate stone work. The cemetery contains the graves of members of the Ottoman court.
Keep an eye out for the birdhouses built into the façade. It’s a trend that developed in Ottoman architecture during the 18th century.
The entrance to the mosque is up a semicircular staircase with 10 steps, then through a portico with 5 arches. Attached to the left side is the imperial pavilion, which was a private space reserved for the Sultan.
Once inside the prayer hall, you’ll likely notice that the Ayazma Mosque is a much smaller version of the Nuruosmaniye Mosque. It’s topped by a large single dome and contains several windows, and is relatively tall for its size.
Pay special attention to the Baroque stonework on the mihrab and minbar. To the left, you’ll see the Sultan’s loge, which is behind a gilded screen and topped by impressive woodwork.
Ottoman Homes
In the streets around the Ayazma Mosque, it’s possible to encounter several old wooden Ottoman home. Some are run down and in need of repair while others have been nicely restored.
Ayşe Sultan Fountain
A few blocks inland from the Ayazma Mosque is the Ayşe Sultan Fountain (Ayşe Sultan Çeşmesi). It was built in 1598 and was made of solid marble.
Kaptan Pasha Mosque
Working through the neighborhood is the Kaptan Pasha Mosque (Kaptan Paşa Camii). It was originally built in 1499 by Hamza Fakih Efendi and rebuilt by Kaptan-ı Derya Kaymak Mustafa Pasha between 1728 to 1729. Kaymak Mustafa Pasha (d. 1730) was the son of Vizier Kara Ibrahim Pasha, maternal grandson of Merzifonlu Kara Mustafa Pasha (1634/35-1683), and son-in-law of Grand Vizier Nevşehirli Dâmad Ibrahim Pasha (c. 1662-1730).
The mosque burned down in 1890 and was rebuilt the same year by Şerife Nefise Hanım, who’s buried in the cemetery adjacent to the building.
The mosque is on a square plan and topped by a single dome with 16 windows in the drum. The interior was once completely covered in 18th-century tiles made at the Tekfur Palace in Ayvansaray, but today they reach only the upper level of the lower windows.
The Kaptan Mustafa Pasha Fountain (Kaptan Mustafa Paşa Çeşmesi) is opposite the main gate. It was commissioned in 1729 by Kaymak Mustafa Pasha and has six-line inscription above its arch.
Aziz Mahmud Hüdâyî Complex
The Aziz Mahmud Hüdâyî Complex (Aziz Mahmud Hüdâyî Külliyesi) is around the corner to the east. It was formed around the tekke and tomb of Aziz Mahmud Hüdâyî (1541-1628) one of the most famous Sufi saints of the Ottoman Empire. He was also the third husband of Ayşe Hümaşah Sultan (1541-1604), the only daughter of Mihrimah Sultan and Rüstem Pasha. The complex is an important Islamic pilgrimage site and can get very crowded. There are gates at the upper and lower sections.
Construction on the tekke took place between 1589 and 1595. The mosque, tombs, library, fountains, dervish cells, imperial pavilion, soup kitchen, and hamam were added later. The complex burned down in 1849 and was rebuilt by Sultan Abdülmecid I in 1855. Further repairs took place in 1975 under the Directorate General of Foundations (Vakıflar Genel Müdürlüğü). The tekke was closed after Sufism was banned by Mustafa Kemal Atatürk (c. 1881-1938) in 1925.
Tomb of Aziz Mahmud Hüdâyî
The tomb of Aziz Mahmud Hüdâyî is on the left side up the stairs if you enter from the lower gate. There’s a modern guard’s room where you can remove your shoes. The first room has a well and served as a narthex.
The sarcophagus of Aziz Mahmud Hüdâyî is directly underneath the dome of the second room and surrounded by a gilded iron fence. Nine of his children and one grandchild are buried with him. The walls are decorated with floral patterns and a band of calligraphy around the top of the walls.
Aziz Mahmud Hüdâyî Mosque
The Aziz Mahmud Hüdâyî Mosque (Aziz Mahmud Hüdâyî Camii) is a three-story rectangular building. It features a wooden minbar and women’s gallery on wooden columns. The roof is also made of wood and covered with lead. The minaret, which is made of cut stone, was destroyed by lightning in 1910. It was repaired in 1912 by Princess Fatima, the daughter of Isma’il Pasha of Egypt (1830-1895).
Tomb of Halil Pasha
The Tomb of Halil Pasha (Halil Paşa Türbesi) is a few steps south. It was built shortly after the death of Kayserili Halil Pasha (c. 1570-1629), a two-time Grand Vizier under Sultans Ahmed I, Mustafa I, Osman II, and Murad IV. The tomb is made of cut stone with a fountain and water dispenser underneath. It’s fronted by an arched portico with three bays.
There are six graves in the courtyard as well as the smaller tomb of Mahmud Bey (d. 1667), Halil Pasha’s son. Sheikh Abdülhay Efendi (d. 1705) and his son are buried in the tomb of Mahmud Bey. A madrasa once stood in front of the cemetery.
Ahmediye Mosque
The Ahmediye Mosque (Ahmediye Camii) is a few blocks away. It was built on the site of the Kepçe Hoca Mosque (Kepçe Hoca Camii) between 1721 and 1722 by Eminzâde Hacı Ahmed Ağa, an Ottoman shipyard chief. It was part of a complex including a soup kitchen, timekeeper’s room, fountains, primary school, madrasa, and library. The mosque was repaired in 1861, 1885, 1965, and 2024.
The mosque is on a square plan and built of cut stone. It features 7 lower windows and 8 upper windows, a marble minbar, and a single minaret. The wooden building at the entrance was added in 1931.
The domed classroom sits above the main gate to the complex, which is on the southeast corner. It features an arched portico with three domed bays. A water dispenser is to the left of the gate while a simple fountain is to the right.
The L-shaped madrasa is on the west and south sides of the courtyard. It has 11 student cells underneath an arched colonnade, and there’s a fountain in the center. A library is on the northwest corner of the complex. Like the classroom, it also has an arched portico with three domed bays. The madrasa serves as a Quran course today.
The tomb of Kefçe Dede (d. 1540), who built the first mosque and was known for his generosity, is in the small cemetery next to the mosque. It’s a structure consisting of a dome supported by six marble columns. Eminzâde Hacı Ahmed Ağa is buried nearby.
Kara Davud Pasha Mosque
Continuing back north towards Üsküdar Square is the Kara Davud Pasha Mosque (Kara Dâvud Paşa Camii). It was built by Kara Nişancı Davud Pasha (d. 1505/06) during the reign of Sultan Bayezid II, although the exact construction date is unknown. Kara Davud Pasha served as Kaptan-ı Derya and vizier under Bayezid II.
The mosque fell into ruins and was repaired by Hüseyin Ağa in 1817 and again by a different Hüseyin Ağa in 1831/32. It was damaged by fire and repaired in 1867/68 by Hacı Aziz Ağa, and was restored between 1963 and 1966. The wall around the courtyard as well as a primary school donated by Şehid Ali Pasha were demolished at that time. The grave of Alemdar Ahmed Baba, once in the courtyard, is now at the edge of the sidewalk (d. 1680).
Atik Valide Sultan Hamam
A few steps away is the Atik Valide Sultan Hamam (Atik Valide Sultan Hamamı), which was the last hamam ever built by architect Mimar Sinan (1490-1588). It was commissioned by Nurbanu Sultan (1525-1583), the mother of Murad III and the wife of Selim II, to provide income for the Atik Valide Mosque Complex.
Construction on the double bath took place between 1574 and 1583. Also known as the Mimar Sinan Hamam (Mimar Sinan Hamamı), it was the biggest and most famous hamam in Üsküdar until it was sold in the 18th century due to a sharp decrease in revenues. It ceased to function as a hamam in 1917 and all the marble inside was removed and sold. The building was then converted into a warehouse.
Mehmet Korkut Bey from Komotini, Greece, purchased the building in 1932 for use as a carpentry workshop. In 1959, parts of the dressing room were demolished to accommodate road construction, disrupting its architectural integrity. The building was restored in 1962 and an extension was added to the eastern façade. It then reopened as the Mimar Sinan Bazaar (Mimar Sinan Çarşısı).
The building had fallen into disrepair by the middle of the 2010s. It was purchased by the Directorate General of Foundations (Vakıflar Genel Müdürlüğü) and restored in 2022, reopening as the Üsküdar Book Bazaar (Üsküdar Sahaflar Çarşısı) on December 5 of that year. It deals in second-hand and rare books. The Mimar Sinan Bazaar moved to a new building a few steps east.
Park with a Map of Istanbul
On the north side of the Atik Valide Sultan Hamam, you’ll find a small square with a circular map of Istanbul embedded into the ground. Poles sticking out of the ground mark important landmarks, with information and photos about each one posted on the poles.
Üsküdar Markets
Once you admire the historic mosques and get your fill of fresh air and stunning Bosphorus scenery on the shoreline, it’s time to explore the markets of Üsküdar. If you’re at Üsküdar Square, follow the main road inland and you’ll find a bustling area full of colors, sounds, smells, and unique flavors (ask for samples!). It’s also a great place for people watching.
My advice is to get lost in the maze of streets that make up the markets. You never know what you’ll find! Much of it will be fruits, vegetables, fish, meat, and spices, but there are also clothing stores, antique shops, music stores, cafés, and restaurants. Again, ask for samples, try the snacks from the street vendors, and take in all the sights, sounds, and smells.
Most of the photos on this post come from an afternoon wandering around these streets and alleys with a student one day. It turned out to be one of the most memorable days I spent in Istanbul.
Üsküdar Fishermen’s Market
The first market you’ll come to will most likely be the Üsküdar Fishermen’s Market (Üsküdar Balıkçılar Çarşısı). This long corridor is full of stalls selling the fresh catch of the day from the Bosphorus, Marmara Sea, and Black Sea.
Fountain
Just outside the Fishermen’s Market is an attractive fountain built by the local government in 2013. The fountain faces Üsküdar Square.
Sheikh Mustafa Devati Mosque
The somewhat hidden Sheikh Mustafa Devati Mosque (Şeyh Mustafa Devati Camii) sits just north of the market area. It was built between 1645 and 1650 by Mustafa Devati (d. 1660), an Ottoman Jelveti sheikh.
The tomb of Mustafa Devati (Şeyh Mustafa Devati Türbesi) sits nearby. It was built in 1657 and was renovated by Fatma Zehra Hanım in 1866. There’s a small Ottoman cemetery on the grounds as well.
Kaftan Sokak
Walking north towards Paşalimanı is Kaftan Sokak. It’s a famous stairway with painted steps and colorful homes. There are also spectacular Bosphorus views. You might have to be patient with selfie-taking locals and tourists.
Where to Eat in Üsküdar
I haven’t really spent much time eating in Üsküdar, but I’ve had decent experiences at the few places I’ve visited.
Leticia
Leticia is an excellent pastry shop on Uncular Street. It opened in September 2024 and offers several high quality pastries, chocolates, and breads. It’s gathered quite a following and is one of the most popular places in Üsküdar.
I sat down for Turkish coffee, mint lemonade, and strawberry cheesecake. I forgave the slow service because the cheesecake is to die for! I’ll definitely be back on a future trip to try some of the other elegant pastries on display.
Filizler Köftecisi
Filizler Köftecisi is a famous köfte restaurant along the Üsküdar shoreline, opposite Maiden’s Tower. It has two levels with outdoor seating and spectacular Bosphorus views.
I’ve been both for lunch, to eat lentil soup and köfte, and I’ve also had a nice breakfast there. The food and service are both very good. I highly recommend it.
Zeynel Kebap
If you’re at Üsküdar Square, check out Zeynel Kebap. They have a wide variety of traditional Turkish dishes. I tried the İskender kebab which is one of the house specialties, and was not disappointed.
Paçi Lounge
We stopped at the Paçi Lounge one evening for some coffee and snacks. It has a great setting right on the Bosphorus next to the Şemsi Pasha Mosque. Service was a little slow but other than that we enjoyed our time there.
