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Çemberlitaş is a historic neighborhood in the old city of Istanbul, stretching along the Divan Yolu, an ancient road dating back to the Roman period. In this area, the street is called Janissaries Street (Yeniçeriler Caddesi), a name that reflects its rich Ottoman-era history.
Çemberlitaş Square
Çemberlitaş Square (Çemberlitaş Meydanı) sits at the heart of the neighborhood and is easily accessible via the T1 tram line. The square occupies the site of the Forum of Constantine (Φόρος Κωνσταντίνου), established shortly after the founding of Constantinople. Originally circular, the forum lay just outside the original city walls of Byzantium. It featured two monumental gates to the east and west, along with several statues, many of which were melted down by Crusaders during the Sack of Constantinople in 1204.
Column of Constantine
Çemberlitaş takes its name from the Column of Constantine, erected by Roman Emperor Constantine the Great on May 11, 330, to commemorate Byzantium’s designation as the new capital of the Roman Empire. The column originally stood at the center of the Forum of Constantine.
Constructed from several porphyry blocks, the column originally rose 50 meters and was topped with a statue of Constantine as Apollo. According to tradition, the orb he carried contained a fragment of the True Cross. Legends also suggest that the base housed relics such as the crosses of the two thieves crucified alongside Christ, the baskets from the loaves-and-fishes miracle, an alabaster jar used by Mary Magdalene to anoint Jesus’ head and feet, and the ancient Roman palladium.
In 1106, a strong gale toppled the statue along with the column’s top three cylinders. Byzantine Emperor Manuel I Komnenos replaced the statue with a cross and inscription in the mid-12th century, which the Ottomans removed after the Fall of Constantinople in 1453.
A series of earthquakes and a fire in 1779 destroyed much of the surrounding neighborhood and left black scorch marks on the column, giving it the Turkish nickname “Burnt Column” (Çemberlitaş Sütunu). Sultan Abdülhamid I later repaired the column and added the masonry base; the original base now lies about 2.5 meters below ground level. Today, the column stands 35 meters tall and is part of the UNESCO World Heritage listing for the Historic Areas of Istanbul.
Çemberlitaş Hamam
The Çemberlitaş Hamam (Çemberlitaş Hamamı) stands on the east side of the square and is one of Istanbul’s most historic Turkish baths. Built in 1584 by the renowned architect Mimar Sinan (1490–1588), it was commissioned by Nurbanu Sultan (1526–1583), consort of Sultan Selim II and mother of Sultan Murad III. The hamam was intended to generate income for her charitable foundations, supporting projects such as the Atik Valide Mosque Complex in Üsküdar.
The Çemberlitaş Hamam is open daily and has separate sections for men and women. It offers a range of services at different price levels, including traditional washes and massages. Visitors can admire Sinan’s signature domes and the elegant layout of the interior, which reflect the classical Ottoman style.
In my experience, the washing and massage services are just as thorough as those at more upscale hamams, like Cağaloğlu or Haseki Hürrem Sultan, though the setting is simpler and lacks extra pampering and complimentary touches. Staff members are generally friendly, but the attendants’ insistence on tips after the services can be a bit off-putting.
Atik Ali Pasha Mosque
On the west side of Çemberlitaş Square stands the Atik Ali Pasha Mosque (Atik Ali Paşa Camii). Built between 1496 and 1497 by Atik Ali Pasha (d. 1511), a eunuch and Grand Vizier under Sultan Bayezid II, the mosque was originally part of a large complex that included a madrasa, soup kitchen, caravanserai, tombs, and a dervish lodge. Today, only the mosque, its tombs, and part of the madrasa survive.
The mosque has suffered repeated earthquake damage over the centuries. In 1648, both the minaret and dome collapsed completely, and later earthquakes in 1716 and 1766 caused further damage. Next to the mosque are the tombs of several Grand Viziers, including Kemankeş Kara Ali Pasha (d. 1624), Lefkeli Mustafa Pasha (d. 1648), Boynueğri Mehmed Pasha (d. 1665), and Koca Derviş Mehmed Pasha (d. 1655), along with other burials.
The mosque measures 21.55 by 28.13 meters. Its main dome spans 13.3 meters in diameter and is surrounded by 16 windows on the drum. Additional features include a half dome and four smaller domes, all of which contribute to its distinctive Ottoman style.
Köprülü Complex
The Köprülü Complex (Köprülü Külliyesi) is a significant group of buildings in Çemberlitaş, built by members of the influential Köprülü family. It partially occupies the square and includes a mosque, madrasa, tomb, caravanserai, fountain, and library. The Divan Yolu separates the caravanserai, Vezir Han, from the rest of the complex, giving it a distinct position within the urban layout.
Vezir Han
Vezir Han sits directly on Çemberlitaş Square. This large caravanserai was built by Grand Vizier Köprülü Fazıl Ahmed Pasha (1635–1676) between 1659 and 1660. Its name reflects the prominence of the Köprülü family — five members served as Grand Viziers of the Ottoman Empire.
A slave market operated here until 1855, when the Ottoman Empire abolished the slave trade. Slavery itself remained legal in the Ottoman Empire and in the early Turkish Republic until 1926.
The entrance to Vezir Han is through a barrel-vaulted passage that leads to a small triangular courtyard and then a larger trapezoidal one. Although the building is somewhat dilapidated today, a few goldsmiths still work here, giving visitors a glimpse of its historic commercial activity.
Köprülü Mehmed Pasha Mosque and Madrasa
Across the street is the Köprülü Mehmed Pasha Mosque (Köprülü Mehmed Paşa Camii), built in 1661 by Köprülü Mehmed Pasha (1575–1661), the patriarch of the family. The mosque also served as the classroom of a madrasa.
In the courtyard behind the mosque are the tombs of Köprülü Mehmed Pasha, his son Fazıl Ahmed Pasha, and his wife Ayşe Hatun. A fountain stands along the west wall, facing Peykhane Street.
Köprülü Mehmed Pasha Library
A short walk east along Divan Yolu, toward Hagia Sophia and the Hippodrome, is the Köprülü Mehmed Pasha Library (Köprülü Mehmed Paşa Kütüphanesi), founded in 1667 by Fazıl Ahmed Pasha. It was the first building in Ottoman Constantinople specifically designed as a library.
The library houses a valuable collection of manuscripts, prints, and maps in Ottoman Turkish, Persian, and Arabic, all donated by the Köprülü family. It sits opposite the tomb of Mahmud II, which I cover in a separate post.
Press Museum
Heading back towards Çemberlitaş Square — and just across the street from the Köprülü Mehmed Pasha Mosque — you’ll find the Turkish Journalists Association Press Museum (Türkiye Gazeteciler Cemiyeti Basın Müzesi). Established by the Turkish Journalists Association (Türkiye Gazeteciler Cemiyeti), it opened on May 9, 1988, and today presents exhibitions on mass communication and journalism. The museum is open on weekdays from 2pm to 5pm, and admission is free (as of June 2025).
The building was constructed between 1865 and 1870 by Mehmed Esat Safvet Pasha (1814-1883) a diplomat who later served as Grand Vizier under Sultan Abdülhamid II. The architects were likely the Fossati brothers — Gaspare (1809–1883) and Giuseppe (1822–1891). The structure originally housed the Ottoman Ministry of General Education (Maarif-i Umumiye Nezareti), and beginning in 1875, it was used by Istanbul University. During Abdülhamid II’s reign, it was occupied by the Censure Commission. In 1908, the building was transferred to the city and held various municipal offices until 1983. It underwent restoration between 1984 and 1988.
Theodosius Cistern / Şerefiye Cistern
A few steps south of the Köprülü Mehmed Pasha Library is the Theodosius Cistern, built by Roman Emperor Theodosius II between 428 and 443 to store water brought in from the Aqueduct of Valens. It once supplied water to both the Baths of Zeuxippus and the Great Palace of Constantinople. When I lived in Istanbul, the cistern was still closed to the public.
After an eight-year renovation, the cistern reopened in April 2018 as the Şerefiye Cistern (Şerefiye Sarnıcı). A modern glass structure now covers the original entrance. It’s open daily from 9am to 7pm, and admission for foreigners is 900₺ (as of June 2025).
Inside, the cistern is beautifully illuminated and occasionally hosts art exhibitions and concerts. It contains 32 marble columns, each about 9 meters high (30 feet). The interior measures 45 by 25 meters (148 by 82 feet).
Keçecizade Fuad Pasha Mosque
A bit further south down Peykhane Street, you’ll find the Keçecizade Fuad Pasha Mosque (Keçecizade Fuat Paşa Cami), completed in 1870. The mosque was commissioned by Mehmed Fuad Pasha (1814–1869), who died in Nice, France, before construction began. He served twice as Grand Vizier under Sultan Abdülaziz.
In the southwest corner of the mosque is the beautifully carved tomb of Mehmed Fuad Pasha, which may have been inspired by the Alhambra in Granada, Spain.
Near Çemberlitaş…
If you continue walking a few steps west along the Divan Yolu (Janissaries Street), you’ll come to Beyazıt Square. If you head north from Çemberlitaş Square, you can visit the stunning Nuruosmaniye Mosque and the busy Mahmutpaşa neighborhood. Behind the mosque is one of the gates to the Grand Bazaar.
Where to Eat in Çemberlitaş
I’ve stopped a few times for quick meals in the area.
Ortaklar
Across from the Şerefiye Cistern is Ortaklar, a casual kebab shop serving döner, pide, and other classic Turkish dishes. It’s not the best meal you’ll have in Istanbul, but it hits the spot if you’re just looking for fuel while sightseeing.
Özlem Karadeniz
A block further south is Özlem Karadeniz, which specializes in pide and kebab. It’s a friendly place with good service, fair prices, and reliably decent food. I stopped in for lunch and had a lentil soup along with a kuşbasılı pide with egg.
