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Arnavutköy is a picturesque village on the European side of the Bosphorus in Istanbul, Turkey. It’s located in the Beşiktaş district between Kuruçeşme and Bebek.
Introduction to Arnavutköy
Arnavutköy has been settled since antiquity. During the Byzantine period, it was known as Mega Revma (Μέγα Ρεύμα) for the strong current of the Bosphorus. Arnavutköy translates to Albanian Village, because Sultan Mehmed II resettled many Albanians in the area in 1468.
Several seaside mansions were build in Arnavutköy in the late 19th and early 20th centuries. The neighborhood remained very heavily populated by Greeks until the early 20th century with small Muslim, Armenian, and Jewish communities.
Today, the village is famous for its seafood restaurants, picturesque wooden Ottoman seaside mansions, and views of the Bosphorus. It maintains a very small Greek minority.
Wandering through the streets of Arnavutköy is an enjoyable experience. While the seafood restaurants tend to overlook the Bosphorus, there are a handful of small cafés and restaurants on the streets and alleys heading inland. Many are housed in colorful historic buildings.
Getting to Arnavutköy
To get to Arnavutköy, you can take the 40T bus from the Park Otel stop in Gümüşsuyu near Taksim Square; the 22 or 40T from Kabataş; or the 22, 22RE, 40, 40T, or BŞK5 from Beşiktaş. The ferry terminal has service on the City Ferry Lines (Şehir Hatları) every hour or so from Eminönü and Beşiktaş.
Seaside Mansions in Arnavutköy
As previously mentioned, Arnavutköy is famous for its beautiful Ottoman seaside mansions (yalılar). These mansions used to sit right up against the shore of the Bosphorus, but the coastal road has cut them off from the water.
The good thing is you can admire the beauty of the mansions without getting on a boat. You can see the entrances on the southbound side of the road and the façades on the Bosphorus on the northbound side.
Ömer Yılmaz Güven Park
Just across the road from the ferry terminal is Ömer Yılmaz Güven Park (Ömer Yılmaz Güven Parkı). It contains a monument dedicated to Mustafa Kemal Atatürk (1881-1938), the founder of the Turkish Republic.
The side of the monument facing the Bosphorus depicts Atatürk as the President of Turkey while the side facing inland depicts him during his time as a military leader.
Arnavutköy Police Station
East of the park is the Arnavutköy Police Station (Arnavutköy Karakolu). It was constructed in 1843 and has a U-shaped plan consisting of a central section and two side wings. The tughra of Sultan Abdülmecid I sits above the entrance. The building continues to serve as a local police station.
Tevfikiye Mosque
The Tevfikiye Mosque (Tevfikiye Camii), also known as the Akıntı Cape Mosque (Akıntı Burnu Camii) is next to the police station. It was built between 1832 and 1838 by Sultan Mahmud II in honor of his son Şehzade Tevfik. The architect is unknown. The wooden mosque is on a rectangular plan and covers 287 square meters. It contains a Sultan’s pavilion and a total of 29 windows. The single minaret is made of cut stone.
Beyhan Sultan Fountain
As the coastal road turns north towards Bebek, you’ll find the Beyhan Sultan Fountain (Beyhan Sultan Çeşmesi). It was built in 1804 by Beyhan Sultan (1766-1824), the daughter of Sultan Mustafa III. The Baroque fountain is divided into three parts and contains the tughra of Selim III in an oval medallion at the top of the center section.
Great Archangels Greek Orthodox Church
Moving inland, one of the major landmarks in Arnavutköy is the Great Archangels Greek Orthodox Church (Παμμέγιστοι Ταξιάρχες Μεγάλου Ρεύματος / Aya Strati Taksiarhi Rum Ortodoks Kilisesi).
The church existed earlier than the 17th century, and it was renovated in 1677. It was also renovated after fires in 1796 and 1799.
The current church was built between 1896 and 1899, after it was destroyed by an earthquake in 1894. Currently, it serves one of the largest congregations of Greek Orthodox Christians remaining in Istanbul. Outside the church is a holy spring dedicated to St. Paraskevi.
The nave of the church is beautifully decorated. There’s a stunning wooden iconostasis and a painting of Christ Pantocrator in the dome. I apologize for the poor quality of the photos.
Underneath the church is a crypt containing the tombs of church benefactors and wealthy Ottoman Greeks. I haven’t been able to confirm if it’s the same person, but one of the notable burials may be Stefan Bogoridi (1775-1859), an Ottoman statesman of Bulgarian origin. In 1849, Bogoridi donated his house in Fener to build a Bulgarian Orthodox Church. The famous iron Church of St. Stephen sits there today.
