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Derinkuyu is a town in Cappadocia, Turkey. It’s part of the UNESCO World Heritage listing for Göreme National Park and the Rock Sites of Cappadocia.
Introduction to Derinkuyu
Derinkuyu was first mentioned by Xenophon (c. 430 BC – 354 BC) in Anabasis. He wrote about people living in houses underground excavated homes, which is what it’s famous for today. The town was known as Malakopí (Μαλακοπή) from about the 4th century through 1923, when it received its current name. Derinkuyu translates to “deep well”.
The town is situated around a large square surrounded by souvenir shops and restaurants. They cater mostly to tourists.
Derinkuyu Underground City
The Derinkuyu Underground City (Derinkuyu Yeraltı Şehri) is the largest multilevel underground city excavated in Turkey. It’s open daily and admission for foreigners is €13 (as of August 2025).
There are some tight spaces and low ceilings in some of the tunnels so beware if you’re claustrophobic. The main tunnel to get down to the chambers is one-way, so expect some waiting if there are large groups. An attendant is on hand to let people know when they can go up or down. Also, it can get quite cool underground. You may want to take a light jacket.
The Derinkuyu Underground City may have been formed as far back as the 8th century BC by the Phrygians. It was expanded by Cappadocian Greek Christians sometime during the Byzantine era. Some artifacts found in the city date back to the 5th century.
The city was used for protection during the Arab-Byzantine Wars between the 7th and 11th centuries. It was connected to other underground cities through a series of tunnels. It continued to serve as a shelter for Christian natives well into the early 20th century to escape periodic persecutions by the Ottomans.
In 1923, when the local Greeks were sent to Greece as part of the population exchange between Greece and Turkey, the Derinkuyu Underground City was abandoned. It was rediscovered in 1963 when a resident found a strange room behind a wall while renovating his home. The cave city opened to the public in 1969. About half is accessible, but only 10% is open to visitors.
Features of Derinkuyu Underground City
The Derinkuyu Underground City reaches a depth of about 85 meters (279 feet) and could be closed off from the inside with large stone doors. It was capable of sheltering up to 20,000 people along with livestock and food stores. The temperature was cool and constant no matter the season above ground.
Rooms inside the underground city served as churches, stables, cellars, wine and olive oil presses, storage rooms, and refectories.
A 55-meter (180 foot) ventilation shaft also served as a well. It provided water to villagers aboveground in times of peace as well as to those in hiding.
One very narrow tunnel leads down to a section with graves. The lights weren’t working during my last visit so we had to light our way with our cell phones.
Church of St. Theodore
The Church of St. Theodore (Aya Todori Kilisesi) is a short walk from the entrance to the underground city. It served the local Greek community until they were deported in 1923. The church was under restoration for several years and finally reopened to the public in August 2025. Admission is 100₺ (as of August 2025).
The church was built under the permission of Sultan Abdülmecid I and opened on May 15, 1858. The architect was Kyriakos Papadopoulos. The church has three apses and is surrounded by high walls. There’s a detached bell tower on the walls.
In Turkish, it’s known as the Church of the Grapes (Üzümlü Kilise) for its beautiful engravings of grapes. They’re found around the entrance portal as well as around another entrance on the left side. In front of the entrance portal are a few empty graves.
Priest’s House
The former priest’s house (Papaz’ın Evi) is across the street from the church. The two-story structure was built in the late 18th century and housed local priests until the population exchange. It has five rooms as well as underground levels used by early Christians. The underground rooms include a barn, meeting hall, confessional, baptistry, and winery. There are also tunnels connecting to the Derinkuyu Underground City as well as the Church of St. Theodore. The home was restored in 2020 and serves as a restaurant. It’s typically open during high season.
Where to Eat in Derinkuyu
I’ve had one meal on my trips to the town.
Keskin
We popped into Keskin for lunch. We shared a shepherd’s salad (çoban salatası) to start and all had a bowl of lentil soup (ezogelin). I had an order of moussaka (musaka), beans (kuru fasulye), and rice. The food was delicious and service was friendly. Prices are more than fair.
