Last updated on .
Bitlis is a small city in Eastern Anatolia set in a beautiful valley. It’s off the beaten path and rarely attracts foreign visitors.
Introduction to Bitlis
Bitlis was originally known by its Armenian name, Baghesh. According to an Armenian folk story, a donkey left its stable in the dead of winter and wandered into the valley below. The donkey froze to death and wasn’t discovered until the following spring. Therefore, the city took the name Pagh Esh, meaning Cold Donkey.
As Baghesh, the city was one of the most important in the Kingdom of Armenia. It was later ruled by the Byzantines, Arabs, Seljuks, and Mongols before becoming a Kurdish emirate in the late 12th century. Although the Kurds were forced to take a Persian governor under Safavid rule and later submitted to the Ottomans in 1533, Bitlis remained deeply influenced by Persian culture and language through the middle of the 19th century.
Bitlis had a significant Armenian minority until virtually every member of the community was exterminated during the Armenian Genocide in 1915. The Russians briefly held the city in 1916 during World War I but were driven out by Ottoman forces and Kurdish irregulars.
Today, Bitlis is known for its old houses made of cut stone. It preserves more medieval and traditional architecture than any other city in the region. The city is situated around the Bitlis River. It has hot and dry summers but cold and snowy winters.
We enjoyed our short stay in Bitlis and found the locals to be very friendly and even curious as to why we visited their city. Some were enthusiastic to practice their English and offered to show us around, including a group of schoolgirls outside the Ihlasiye Madrasa.
Getting to Bitlis
The nearest airports to Bitlis are in Muş and Siirt, which are about 60 and 90 minutes away, respectively. You can fly in from Istanbul or Ankara (as of September 2024) and there are airport shuttles from both airports into Bitlis. If you’re already in the region, the city is well-connected to other cities by bus.
Getting Around Bitlis
The city center is walkable. If you want to get up to the Ihlasiye Madrasa or Ethnography Museum you might want to take a taxi.
Where to Stay in Bitlis
We had a hard time finding a place to stay. Choices are very limited.
Öz Çavuşoğlu Hotel
Öz Çavuşoğlu Hotel is a few minutes drive south of the city center. It has large comfortable rooms, a friendly staff, and a decent buffet breakfast in the morning. The rooms didn’t have air conditioning so that might be an issue during the summer. There’s a gas station and convenience store right next to the hotel.
Where to Eat in Bitlis
When in town, the best thing to try is büryan kebab, which is mutton slow-cooked in a pit. It’s fatty and juicy and served atop pita bread. You’ll find büryan places all over town.
Tarihi Bitlis Büryan Salonu
This büryan joint is situated along Kazım Dirik Street in the former city hall, which is a late 19th century stone building. It makes for a great setting to enjoy the local specialty.
After entering the building, the friendly staff led us to the kitchen. They gave a quick rundown of how they prepared büryan. One man pulled back the lid covering the pit and the chef lifted up a hook containing the meat.
From there, we walked up to the first floor where we had the chance to sit in a traditional dining room. The server brought us a few plates of delicious büryan kebabs accompanied by fresh tomato, onion, and hot peppers. It was a nice experience and we really enjoyed the meal.
Durak Lokantası
Durak Lokantası is a small restaurant in the heart of the city. They have a few kebabs on the menu as well as pide and daily specials. We stopped in for dinner and had pide. I also had a lentil soup. Everything was delicious and fairly priced. Service was friendly and we enjoyed chatting with the owner.
Sarıyer Börek Baklava
To satisfy your sweet tooth, head to Sarıyer Börek Baklava. It’s located next to Durak Lokantası. They have a few varieties of baklava as well as börek.
Stay Connected in Bitlis *
With a flexible eSIM data plan from Saily, you can reduce or even eliminate international roaming fees AND save time, so you can enjoy your trip without missing a beat. Saily is built by Nord Security, trusted by over 14 million people worldwide, and is compatible with both iOS and Android.
Click here to learn more about Saily, or here to get started. Don’t forget to use this promo code to get 5% off: Special5
*This section contains an affiliate link. By clicking on the link or banner, I receive a small “thank you” and you receive an offer at no cost to you, unless you decide to make a purchase – a win-win for both of us!
Governor Oktay Çağatay Park
We started exploring Bitlis at Governor Oktay Çağatay Park (Vali Oktay Çağatay Parkı), which is right in the city center. This small park features the Bitlis River on the east side and the Bazaar Square Gate on the west side.
The Bazaar Square Gate (Çarşı Meydan Kapısı) was one of the main entrances to the city. It was built during the Bitlis Principality period. There are two lion reliefs on the entrance door made of traditional Bitlis stone. They represent power, leadership, and superiority. The gate was restored in 2023.
Grand Mosque of Bitlis
Next to the park is the Grand Mosque of Bitlis (Bitlis Ulu Camii). The exact construction date is unknown but some sources have cited 1126. According to an inscription, it was repaired in 1153 by Abu’l Muzaffar Muhammed. The mosque was damaged by fire in 1441 and repaired in 1444 by Emir Mehmed. The minaret was built in 1492.
The mosque is one of the oldest examples of Seljuk architecture in Anatolia. It features a conical dome resting on a cylindrical drum. The prayer hall is a rectangular space. The mosque was restored between 2012 to 2013. Unfortunately, it was always closed when we walked by.
Zülfikarlar İş Han
West of the park is Zülfikarlar İş Han (Zülfikarlar İş Hanı). It’s not an attractive building but it caught my eye. I couldn’t find any information other than the inscription above the entrance with the year 1914. It looks to be a mixed residential and commercial building.
Tomb?
A few steps away along the river is a small square building with a conical dome. It wasn’t labeled and I can’t find any information about it. I’m assuming it’s a tomb, but if anyone else knows better please let me know so I can update with the correct information.
Şerefiye Mosque
Across one of the bridges you can access the Şerefiye Mosque (Şerefiye Camii). According to the inscription, it was built by Şerefhan IV, the Emir of Bitlis, between 1524 and 1529. The complex includes a mosque, madrasa, tomb, soup kitchen, and hamam.
The mosque, tomb, and soup kitchen are situated around a small central courtyard. The soup kitchen (imaret) is on the north side and was functioning as a restaurant during our visit. It’s attached to the minaret.
The tomb belongs to Şerefhan IV and was built in 1533 by his son, Emir Şemseddin. In addition to the tomb, there’s a small cemetery containing the graves of several descendants of Şerefhan IV.
The madrasa is located on the south side of the mosque and has two floors. The hamam sits along the main street detached from the complex. It was built by Şerefhan IV and is still active as the Han Hamam (Han Hamamı).
Kazım Dirik Street
Kazım Dirik Street winds through the historic city center of Bitlis. There are a few alleys running near the street with all kinds of shops. Wandering down the street and through the alleys is a great opportunity to witness local life.
There are also a couple historic mosques in the area, including the Meydan Mosque (Meydan Camii) and Kalealtı Mosque (Kalealtı Camii). The Meydan Mosque was originally built in the early 16th century and was destroyed by the Russians in 1915, leaving only the minaret. The mosque was rebuilt in 2006. The Kalealtı Mosque was built in the 18th century.
Pasha Hamam
To the north is the Pasha Hamam (Paşa Hamamı), which was built in 1571 by Hüsrev Mehmed Pasha, the governor of Van. It was a rectangular Turkish bath with a men’s and women’s section consisting of domed cells on the east and west sides. The women’s section hasn’t survived but it’s believed to have been identical to the men’s section. Vaulted shops were on the eastern façade.
Bitlis Castle
Towering over the city center is Bitlis Castle (Bitlis Kalesi). Apparently it was built in 312 BC by a general of Alexander the Great named Badlis. That claim can’t be verified.
The length of the walls is 2,800 meters. Within the walls was a caravanserai, palace, mosque, bedesten, and homes, but none of the structures have survived. Unfortunately, we were unable to visit because it was closed for restoration, which started in 2004 and has been ongoing.
Ihlasiye Madrasa
On the north side of the city you’ll find the Ihlasiye Madrasa (İhlasiye Medresesi), which sits in a complex behind a wall. It was originally built by the Seljuks in 1216 and repaired by Şerefhan V in 1589. Some of the best scientists and artists of the time once taught there.
The south façade is the most impressive part of the building. It features intricate stonework and a monumental entrance. Unfortunately, we weren’t able to enter. The madrasa was undergoing a much needed restoration at the time of our visit. I hope to return in the future to see the results.
In the outer courtyard of the madrasa are several smaller structures. First is the Şemsiye Mosque (Şemsiye Camii), which was built in 1426. It sits opposite the 15th century tomb of Veli Şemseddin. Nearby we noticed an Armenian khachkar.
Across from the entrance to the madrasa are a few more tombs. They belong to members of the Şerefhan family, including the daughters of Şerefhan II.
Finally, outside the east wall of the complex is a monument dedicated to Mustafa Kemal Atatürk (1881-1938), the founder of the Turkish Republic.
Bitlis Ethnography Museum
Not too far away is the Bitlis Ethnography Museum (Bitlis Etnografya Müzesi). It opened in 2005 and according to the official website, displays “textiles, hand embroidery, ornaments, copper threads, coins, and ethnographic items from the region’s recent history”. Artifacts highlight social and religious lives of the locals from the Late Ottoman Republican periods. Ethnographic works are on the upper floor of the building while stone works are in the garden. Admission is free (as of September 2024) and the museum is open daily. Unfortunately, it was closed for renovation when we tried to visit.
El Aman Han
Finally, on the outskirts of Bitlis along the road to Tatvan is El Aman Han (El Aman Hanı). This caravanserai was built by Hüsrev Mehmed Pasha, the governor of Van, and completed in 1579. It provided shelter and services to travelers and merchants along a route that was particularly harsh during the winter.
El Aman Han is made of cut stone and measures 90 meters long by 70 meters wide. It’s the largest caravanserai in Anatolia in terms of floor area. It consists of barns on the north and west sides, large rooms along a corridor, a mosque, and a central domed space connecting these sections. There’s a bath next to the main building and a large courtyard. 160 rooms housed staff and guests and there were 10 shops for local artisans and merchants.
El Aman Han was restored and leased to Bitlis Eren University for 20 years. The university hosted academic and social meetings as well as scientific congresses. It was closed when we passed by but we were able to walk around the perimeter. I was also able to peek under the door to the courtyard.
