Last updated on .
San Antonio is a fun city that blends rich history with vibrant culture. From the Alamo to the lively River Walk, it’s a city that tells the story of Texas with charm and flavor.
Introduction to San Antonio
San Antonio was originally inhabited by the indigenous Payaya people. On June 13, 1691, the feast day of St. Anthony of Padua, Spanish explorers were the first Europeans to pass through the area. They named it San Antonio in honor of the saint.
The city was founded on May 1, 1718, as a Spanish mission and outpost. It grew to become the largest settlement in Texas and was later named the capital of the Mexican province of Tejas.
In December 1835, the Texian Army, made up of mostly American citizens, captured the city. Retaliation by the Mexican army was swift, crushing them at the Battle of the Alamo from February 23 to March 6, 1836. This defeat, couple with the phrase “Remember the Alamo”, however, became a rallying cry, and the Texians later drove out the Mexicans to gain independence for Texas.
The United States’ annexation of Texas led to the Mexican-American War, which depleted San Antonio’s population by almost ⅔. Migrants and immigrants moved in and the city experienced rapid growth. The boom continued after the Civil War as it became a center of the cattle industry. The railroad arrived in 1877.
German immigration had a major impact on San Antonio’s culture in the late 19th and early 20th centuries, and today over 50% of the population are Hispanic or Latino. The city was named a UNESCO City of Gastronomy in 2017.
Unfortunately, we only spent one full day in San Antonio. I look forward to going back one day to see more.
Getting to San Antonio
We drove to San Antonio from San Angelo, making a couple stops along the way. If you’re flying, San Antonio International Airport (SAT) has flights from most major US cities as well as a few from Mexico.
Where to Stay in San Antonio
We spent two nights in San Antonio on a budget.
La Quinta Inn by Wyndham IH-10
For our hotel, we stayed on the west side of the city at the La Quinta Inn by Wyndham IH-10. It wasn’t anything special. Staff was fine, the hotel was clean, and the location wasn’t too bad. It did the job.
Where to Eat in San Antonio
For our two meals in town, we made some terrible choices.
Rio Rio Cantina (Permanently Closed)
For lunch, I visited Rio Rio Cantina along the River Walk. As far as Tex-Mex food, it wasn’t that great. I did, however, enjoy the beautiful setting along the river.
Texas Roadhouse
For dinner, I’m ashamed to say we visited a Texas Roadhouse on the west side of town. This wasn’t my idea at all. Martin had a friend from England who had been living in San Antonio for a few years. I would have preferred something more unique and local rather than a steakhouse chain. Anyway, the meal was fine but the service wasn’t that great.
The Alamo
Let’s start exploring San Antonio at the Alamo, which is the most important historic site in the city. This iconic Texas landmark is part of the UNESCO World Heritage listing for the San Antonio Missions, but not included in the San Antonio Missions National Historical Park.
The Alamo is open to visitors free of charge. The Long Barrack, which was originally the convent, and the Chapel are the two historic buildings open to the public. There’s also a gift shop. Please note the Chapel is hallowed ground. Photos and cell phone use as well as clothing with obscene images and language are forbidden inside.
If you’d like a more in-depth visit, guided tours are offered daily. They cost US$45 for adults, US$40 for seniors age 65+, and US$35 for kids up to 12 (as of April 2025).
Origins as a Mission
The Alamo was founded as a mission in April 1718 by Spanish governor Martín de Alarcón. He named it San Antonio de Valero after St. Anthony of Padua and it sat on the banks of the San Antonio River. The Presidio San Antonio de Béxar, a fort, was built nearby to protect the mission.
The mission moved to its present location near the west bank of the river in 1724 to protect it from flooding. By 1744, there were over 300 Native American converts living in the complex. A permanent stone church was built but it collapsed in the late 1750s. Construction on a new church began in 1758 but was never completed. The mission was secularized in 1793 and later abandoned.
Military Use of the Alamo
In the 19th century, the complex became known as the Alamo after it was taken over in 1803 by the Second Flying Company of San Carlos de Parras, a company of Spanish lancers. It served as the first hospital in Texas between 1806 and 1812. It also functioned as a military prison during the Mexican War of Independence between 1810 and 1821. During that time, many improvements were made to strengthen the complex.
Battle of the Alamo
One of the most important moments in Texas history was the Battle of the Alamo, which took place at the complex between February 23 and March 6, 1836. After a 13-day siege, Mexican troops under President General Antonio López de Santa Anna (1794-1876) stormed the Alamo and brutally killed the outnumbered Texians and Tejanos inside. Among those killed were Jim Bowie (1796-1836), William Travis (1809-1836), and Davy Crockett (1786-1836).
The Battle of the Alamo marked a turning point in the Texas Revolution. Hellbent on revenge, Santa Anna’s cruelty inspired many Texians and Tejanos to join the Texian Army. They defeated the Mexicans at the Battle of San Jacinto on April 21, 1836, and formed the independent Republic of Texas.
The remains of the heroes of the Alamo are buried at San Fernando Cathedral on Main Plaza. Songs, films, books, and television shows have all been written about the battle, and the battle cry “Remember the Alamo!” remains an important motto for Texans.
Preservation of the Alamo
After gaining statehood, in 1855 the Texas Supreme Court decided that the Catholic Church was the rightful owner of the Alamo. The Church leased it to the military until 1876. The Long Barrack, which is the oldest building on the site dating back to 1724, was purchased by Honore Grenet, who used it as a wholesale grocery business. The Church then sold the Chapel to the State of Texas in 1883.
Restoration and preservation became a priority in 1892, and there were several battles over the next few decades to save the Alamo. Non-historic buildings on the property were demolished and a wall was built around it. It was named a National Historic Landmark on December 19, 1960, and an inaugural listing on the National Register of Historic Places on October 15, 1966. The museum opened in 1968. Today, the Alamo is one of the most popular tourist attractions in Texas.
San Antonio River Walk
The San Antonio River Walk is one of the top attractions in the entire state of Texas. It winds through downtown San Antonio along the San Antonio River and sits one level below street level.
The San Antonio River Walk originated in 1929, when local architect Robert Hugman (1902-1980) submitted a beautification and flood control plan for the downtown area. The plan was adopted in 1938 as the San Antonio River Beautification Project.
Work on the 2 ½ mile walkway began in 1939. Hugman designed 31 unique stairways as well as several bridges and other features.
In 1946, the first of several restaurants opened along the San Antonio River Walk, and the Hilton Palacio del Rio opened in 1968. The Hyatt Regency San Antonio followed in 1981 and the Marriott Rivercenter in 1988. Several other hotels, restaurants, and shops have also joined.
The project has since expanded north and south of downtown, and there are always plans for further expansions. In addition, many buildings have created their own River Walk entrances separate from their street entrances.
Recreation and Events on the San Antonio River Walk
The San Antonio River Walk continues to be a place for both locals and tourists to gather. Tourist boats are a popular attraction and cruise down the river frequently. Interpretive panels also sit along the River Walk explaining important landmarks and architectural features.
Social and cultural events are held along the River Walk, including the San Antonio Spurs holding cruises to celebrate their NBA championships. Events for the Fiesta San Antonio take place there every April.
Torch of Friendship
I walked almost the entire length of the San Antonio River Walk circling the heart of downtown, passing a few points of interest just off the path. First, on the east side of the River Walk is the Torch of Friendship (La Antorcha de la Amistad). It’s located in the median at the intersection of Losoya, Alamo, and Commerce Streets. It was a gift from the Mexican Consulate in 2002 and stands 65 feet tall. The intertwining beams represent the friendship and roots Texas shares with Mexico.
Briscoe Western Art Museum
Near the southeast corner of the River Walk is the Briscoe Western Art Museum. It opened in 2013 in the building that once served as San Antonio’s first public library. The museum’s goal is to share stories of both Western heritage and the people behind it.
The museum is named for former Texas Governor Dolph Briscoe (1923-2010) and his wife Janey Slaughter Briscoe (1942-2000). Tickets are US$16 for adults; US$14 for seniors age 65+, students age 13-18, and college students; and free for kids under 13 (as of April 2025). It’s open Thursday through Monday. I wasn’t able to visit.
La Villita
Finally, just south of the River Walk is La Villita. It’s a small arts district containing about 25 shops and galleries as well as restaurants. The galleries feature jewelry, pottery, Mexican folk art, souvenirs, and other gifts.
La Villita was San Antonio’s first neighborhood. It was originally home to a Native American community then housed Spanish soldiers and their families. In the late 19th century, the area was thriving with immigrants from Germany, France, and Italy. It was a cultural melting pot with a variety of different architectural styles, from traditional adobe to early Victorian.
La Villita deteriorated into a slum early in the 20th century, but Mayor Maury Maverick (1895-1954) led efforts to preserve and restore it beginning in 1939. Today, the neighborhood is on the National Register of Historic Places and includes 27 notable buildings.
Main Plaza
Main Plaza sits at the heart of San Antonio. It’s the historic center of the city and has been transformed into a vibrant outdoor cultural center.
In 1730, the Spaniards laid out Plaza de las Islas around the small church serving the village of San Fernando de Bexar, which later became San Antonio. Government buildings, stores, and homes were all built around the plaza and surrounding streets. Religious festivals, political rallies, parades, and other important events all took place there.
As the city center shifted elsewhere in the late 19th century, Plaza de las Islas lost importance. The plaza itself shrank in size with the widening and paving of roads in the 1880s. The center was filled in with grass, effectively transforming the plaza into a park.
In 2006, the city received public and private investments aimed at revitalizing the space and regaining its former character. The plaza was repaved and fountains were installed. It was transformed into Main Plaza, a relaxed setting full of outdoor cafés where people could meet and public events could be held. The grand opening took place on April 13, 2008.
San Fernando Cathedral
The most important building on Main Plaza is the San Fernando Cathedral. It’s the oldest cathedral in Texas and one of the oldest in the United States.
The San Fernando Cathedral, also known as the Cathedral of Our Lady of La Candelaria and Guadalupe (Catedral de Nuestra Señora de la Candelaria y Guadalupe), is the seat of the Archdiocese of San Antonio. It was founded on March 9, 1731, by 15 families of settlers from the Canary Islands. It’s the oldest continuously functioning religious community in Texas.
The original Church of San Fernando was built between 1738 and 1750 and named for Fernando III of Castile. The baptismal font is thought to be a gift of Carlos III of Spain and is the oldest piece in the cathedral.
The church was enlarged in 1868 under architect Francois P. Giraud (1818-1877), incorporating the walls of the original church to form the sanctuary. The Stations of the Cross were added in 1874 and stained glass windows were installed in 1920. Pope John Paul II visited on September 13, 1987, and a major renovation took place in 2003.
Burials at the San Fernando Cathedral
There are several burials at the cathedral, including former bishops and prominent citizens. Their resting places are clearly marked, some in both English and Spanish.
The most famous burials are the remains of the heroes who died defending the Alamo on March 6, 1836. They include Davy Crockett (1786-1836), William Travis (1809-1836), and Jim Bowie (1796-1836).
The heroes were originally buried in the sanctuary of the old San Fernando Church. They were exhumed on July 28, 1836, and put on public display for a year, then reinterred on May 11, 1938. On an interesting note, Bowie married Ursula de Veramendi at San Fernando in 1831.
Municipal Plaza Building
The skyscraper next to the cathedral is the Municipal Plaza Building. It’s 12 stories high and was built in 1922 to house the Frost National Bank. It features a three-story lobby with an Italian marble staircase and Tiffany electrical fixtures. The bank moved out in 1973 and the lobby was occupied by Luby’s Cafeteria from 1975 to 1989. The city purchased the building in 1989 and moved the City Council Chamber to the lobby in 1992. The building was renamed as the Municipal Plaza Building in April 1994.
Bexar County Courthouse
On the south side of Main Plaza is the imposing Bexar County Courthouse. Construction began on August 4, 1891, and it was completed in 1896. The architect was James Riely Gordon (1863-1937), who designed it in the Romanesque Revival style. Additions took place in 1914, 1923, 1963, and 1972. The total area is about 300,000 square feet.
Morris Building
Finally, east of the courthouse is the Morris Building. It was constructed between 1910 and 1925 as a hotel and was later converted into apartments. A penthouse was added in the 1950s. It’s a mixed-use building today, with 48 apartments and retail space on the ground floor.
Spanish Governor’s Palace
A block west of Main Plaza and across from City Hall is the Spanish Governor’s Palace. It was planned as early as 1722 and completed in 1749. The building is the last remaining part of the Presidio San Antonio de Béxar complex, which was founded on May 5, 1718, by Spanish governor Martín de Alarcón to protect Spanish interests and missions in the area.
The Spanish Governor’s Palace was originally the home of the presidio captain and later housed Spanish governors living in San Antonio. It also served as the capitol building of Spanish Texas from 1772 to 1821. The keystone above the entrance contains the coat of arms of King Ferdinand VI of Spain as well as the year 1749.
The City of San Antonio purchased the property in 1928 and completed restoration in 1930. Today, it’s open to the public as a museum. It’s open daily except Mondays. Admission is US$5 for adults, US$3 for seniors age 60+ and kids age 7-13, and free for kids under 7 (as of April 2025).
O. Henry House
A couple blocks west of the Spanish Governor’s Palace is the O. Henry House. This tiny two-room adobe brick house was originally built by German settler John Kush in 1855. William Sydney Porter (1862-1910), better known as O. Henry, lived in the house in 1885, renting it for US$6 a month.
After being saved from demolition in 1959, it was moved from its original location by the San Antonio Conservation Society. It was transported again to another location in 1998, restored, and opened as a museum in 1999. The house moved yet again in November 2023 to its current location at 702 Dolorosa. It contains period furniture and items related to Porter’s life. Since the most recent move, the future of the O. Henry House Museum has yet to be determined (as of April 2025).
Buckhorn Museum
The Buckhorn Museum is a private museum in San Antonio with a very interesting collection. It’s located at the Buckhorn Saloon about a block north of the River Walk. Admission to both the Buckhorn Museum and the attached Texas Ranger Museum is US$22.99 for visitors age 12+, US$16.99 for kids age 3-11, and free for kids under 3 (as of April 2025). A. The museum is open daily. You can also get a drink or a delicious meal at the Buckhorn Saloon, and pick up some souvenirs at the gift shop.
Albert Friedrich (1864-1928) started collecting items in 1881. He eventually opened a saloon and displayed his collection inside. The name and date of the first saloon is unknown, but he later opened the Buckhorn Saloon in 1896. It was said that Theodore Roosevelt (1858-1919) and his Rough Riders were frequent customers.
In 1922, during Prohibition, Friedrich moved his business to another location and renamed it Albert’s Curio Store, and later the Buckhorn Curio Store and Cafe. In 1956, his heirs transferred the collection to the Lone Star Brewing Company building and reopened the Buckhorn Saloon. The saloon and museum moved to its current location in 1997, after Friedrich’s granddaughter, Mary Friedrich Rogers, and her husband, Wallace Rogers, acquired the collection.
Trophy Animals
The first part of the Buckhorn Museum contains trophy animals from all over the world as well as countless pieces of art. The animals were hunted in places as far away as Africa and the Arctic.
The displays discuss the art of taxidermy as well as how hunting and conservation work hand-in-hand. In addition to land creatures, there’s a section of trophy fish including sailfish, marlin, and tuna.
Carnival of Curiosities
Another section covers the history of curiosities and sideshow acts. Personalities such as Buffalo Bill (1846-1917) and P. T. Barnum (1810-1891) are profiled.
This section includes strange exhibits including a device water flowing upwards, magic acts, and items often displayed in “Cabinets of Curiosities” around the world.
Horn Furniture
Finally, the last section of the Buckhorn Museum contains a large collection of horn furniture. Friedrich’s father was a cabinetmaker who expanded into horn furniture and made pieces for European royalty such as Queen Victoria and Kaiser Wilhelm I. One of the pieces in the collection was made by Friedrich himself for Theodore Roosevelt when he returned to San Antonio as President.
Texas Ranger Museum
The Texas Ranger Museum follows the Buckhorn Museum. It features authentic artifacts associated with the Texas Rangers.
On display are guns, badges, photos, books, and more, as well as historical facts and stories about the Rangers.The Texas Ranger Museum is not affiliated with the official Texas Ranger Hall of Fame and Museum in Waco.
Ranger Town, a recreation of late 19th century San Antonio, is one of the highlights of the Texas Ranger Museum. It includes a blacksmith shop, newspaper office, livery, hotel, telegraph office, and more.
One of the entertaining parts of Ranger Town is a replica of the Buckhorn Saloon, complete with a bar and horn furniture.
Another is the jail, which contains a prisoner sleeping in a cell and plenty of wanted posters on the wall. The posters depict famous outlaws of the era.
Finally, there’s a coffin containing the “body” of Lester Moore and his wooden tombstone. The tombstone reads:
Lester Moore. Here lies Les Moore. Shot with a forty-four. No Les. No Moore. Feb’y 27, 1881. R.I.P.
The last section of the Texas Ranger Museum displays a replica of the Bonnie and Clyde getaway car. The 1934 Ford V8 Deluxe comes complete with bullet holes. The original car is located in Primm, Nevada.
