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While visiting Big Bend country in West Texas, we made it a point to stop in Marfa. We had to see this quirky town full of art galleries in person.
Introduction to Marfa
Marfa, which is in the desert a short drive south of Fort Davis National Historic Site, was founded in the early 1880s as a railroad water stop. Later, several thousand pilots were trained at the Marfa Army Air Field during World War II before the base closed in 1945.
In 1971, minimalist artist Donald Judd (1928-1994) moved to Marfa from New York. He began to permanently install his art and a wave of artists later followed. Several galleries dot the town, and art and music festivals take place annually.
Overall, we found Marfa to be a fun town to visit. Although our time there was short, we really enjoyed the quirkiness mixed in with the history. I’d love to go back and spend more time there.
Marfa Visitor Center
The Marfa Visitor Center is located in the historic USO Building at Highland and Galveston Streets. You can pick up maps and brochures as well as get suggestions on where to eat and shop. You can also learn about the events happening in town during your stay and get tips on the best day trips. The visitor center is open daily unless special events are planned.
Presidio County Courthouse
The imposing Presidio County Courthouse is a good place to start exploring Marfa. Standing prominently in a large square, it was built in 1886 by architect Alfred Giles (1853-1920) of San Antonio. The building was designed in the Second Empire style and modeled after the El Paso Courthouse.
The Presidio County Courthouse, which is topped by a statue of Lady Justice, features pecan wood throughout the interior. There are entrances on all sides with hallways leading to a central rotunda.
Highland Avenue
From there, you can walk down Highland Avenue, which runs through the heart of Marfa. It’s lined with several historic buildings. As you walk south you’ll get nice views of the Presidio County Courthouse.
Palace Theater
The former Palace Theater is at the north end of the street. It was built in 1905 and originally served as the Marfa Opera House. It had seating for 761 people and was later converted into a movie theater. The Palace Theater was updated to the Art Deco style in the 1930s and closed down in the 1970s.
Hotel Paisano
The most prominent building on Highland Avenue is the Hotel Paisano. This historic hotel was one of five Gateway Hotels designed by Henry Trost (1860-1933). It opened in 1930 and was built by developer Charles Bassett of El Paso.
After the 65 rooms were converted into 9 timeshare condominiums in the late 1970s, the property went into foreclosure. It was purchased by Joe and Lanna Duncan for back taxes in March 2001. They took 3 years to renovate the hotel and reopened it with 41 rooms and suites.
It’s definitely worth popping into the hotel to see the interesting decor and facilities. If you have more time, there’s even a restaurant and bar.
Marfa and Presidio County Museum
A few blocks south on San Antonio Street is the Marfa and Presidio County Museum. It’s housed in an 1880s residence, the Humphreys House, and has exhibits on the region’s history. The museum is open daily from 1pm to 5pm. Admission is free (as of July 2025) but donations are appreciated.
Liberty Hall
Liberty Hall (Teatro Libertad) is tucked away near a couple art galleries nearby. It was built in 1919 by the Mendias family as a theater for Spanish language movies and performances. Today, it serves as a popular performance venue.
Art Galleries in Marfa
Since Marfa is an important destination for minimalist and modern art, you’ll find lots of art galleries dotting the town. We saw several during our first few minutes walking around, especially along San Antonio Street and on the side streets.
Ballroom Marfa
The first one we passed was the Ballroom Marfa, which is a space for contemporary art and music. It was established in 2003 by Virginia Lebermann and Fairfax Dorn and is housed in a 1920s ballroom.
Marfa Studio of Arts
Next door is the Marfa Studio of Arts, which was founded in 2000 by Malinda Beeman. They have year-round children’s art programs and gallery space for local artists.
Wrong Store
Later we passed the Wrong Store at its former location in an old church building. It sells high-end ceramics, jewelry, photography, and other types of art. There’s also a gallery with temporary exhibitions. The Wrong Store opened in Marfa in 2010 and moved to its current location on Highland Avenue in 2019.
New Star Grocery Art Museum (Permanently Closed)
Finally, before having lunch and heading into the town center, we walked by the New Star Grocery Art Museum. It specializes in works by local artists, including metal arts, paintings, and masks.
Where to Eat in Marfa
We only spent an afternoon in Marfa, but we were able to visit a couple establishments.
Do Your Thing
Our first stop was for a quick coffee at Do Your Thing. They’re a specialty coffee shop that opened in 2014. They also serve toast using organic ingredients and seasonal items on their homemade sourdough bread.
Boyz 2 Men (Permanently Closed)
For lunch, we had originally planned to visit Boyz 2 Men, a taco stand that was closed at the time of our visit. It later transitioned to a burger joint, Bad Hombres, which also closed permanently on May 25, 2020.
Food Shark (Permanently Closed)
Instead, we popped into Food Shark, a Middle Eastern restaurant that used to be located across the street. Opened in 2006, Food Shark operates out of a truck and uses an old school bus as a dining car.
The menu includes kebabs, falafel, fattoush salad, a hummus and veggie wrap, and more Mediterranean specialties. I had a delicious Marfalafel, which is a tortilla filled with falafel balls, hummus, mixed greens, tomatoes, cucumbers, red onions, tahini, yogurt, and harissa sauce.
Museum of Electronic Wonders and Late Night Grilled Cheese Parlour (Permanently Closed)
At night, Food Shark operates the Museum of Electronic Wonders and Late Night Grilled Cheese Parlour. It’s open Fridays and Saturday nights from 9:30pm to 12:30am.
