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Barrio de las Letras is a small informal neighborhood in the historic center of Madrid. It lies within the barrio of Cortes.
Introduction to Barrio de las Letras
Barrio de las Letras is named for the Spanish literary giants who lived there during the 16th and 17th centuries. Among them are Miguel de Cervantes (1547-1616), Lope de Vega (1562-1635), Francisco de Quevedo (1580-1645), and Luis de Góngora (1561-1627).
Wandering the streets of Barrio de las Letras is a pleasure. Even if you aren’t into Spanish literature or historic places, there are several cafés, bars, restaurants, and little shops to enjoy.
Plaza de Santa Ana
A great place to start exploring Barrio de las Letras is Plaza de Santa Ana, which was once the site of a 17th century Carmelite monastery. The monastery was demolished in 1810 and the plaza took its current shape in 1880. Nowadays, it’s a popular meeting place that features several lively restaurants, tapas bars, and cafés. It’s one of the nicest plazas in the historic center of Madrid.
In the center of the plaza are two monuments. One is dedicated to Spanish poet and playwright Federico García Lorca (1898-1936), who was executed by Spanish Nationalist forces. The other is dedicated to Pedro Calderón de la Barca (1600-1681), another Spanish poet and playwright.
Teatro Español
Madrid’s oldest theatre, Teatro Español, is located on the east side of the plaza. It was established by royal decree of Felipe II in 1565. The first building opened in 1583 as the Teatro del Príncipe and was used until 1735. A new building designed by Italian architect Giovanni Battista Sacchetti (1690-1764) opened in 1745. The theatre changed its name to Teatro Español by royal decree in 1849. The current building was designed by Román Guerrero and was built between 1887 and 1895. It has a capacity of 763.
Plaza del Ángel
To the southwest of Plaza de Santa Ana is the smaller but also pleasant Plaza del Ángel. Several more outdoor cafés and restaurants line this plaza as well.
Church of San Sebastián
South of Plaza del Ángel is the Church of San Sebastián. It was built between 1554 and 1693 and held the funeral of Cervantes, the author of Don Quixote, in 1616, as well as the funeral of Lope de Vega.
Casa de Cervantes
Speaking of Cervantes, you can locate the site of the author’s home a couple blocks east on the aptly named Calle de Cervantes.
The original house was demolished in the 19th century, but there’s a plaque indicating Cervantes lived and died there as well as several other posters featuring his image.
Casa de Lope de Vega
Just down the street is the Casa de Lope de Vega. Spain’s second-most important author after Cervantes lived in the house from 1610 until his death in 1635. It’s now a museum offering free guided group tours that must be booked in advance via email (as of August 2024). Tours are offered Tuesday through Sunday from 10am to 6pm and last about 45 minutes.
Convent of the Barefoot Trinitarians
Finally, a block south of Lope de Vega’s house is the Convent of the Barefoot Trinitarians (Convento de las Trinitarias Descalzas). It was founded by Lady Francisca Gaitán Romero in the early 17th century. The current church was built between 1673 and 1698 and the convent between 1718 and 1752. They were saved from demolition in 1868 thanks to efforts by the Royal Spanish Academy (Real Academia Española).
The church is closed to the public, but a plaque at the entrance commemorates the burial of Cervantes at the convent. The plaque was sculpted by Ponciano Ponzano (1813-1877). The remains of Cervantes were transferred to another location in 1673 during the reconstruction of the church. They were lost until 2015 when they were rediscovered using forensic technology. A mass is held for him every year on the anniversary of his death, April 23.
