Last updated on .
The current old town of Panama City is Casco Viejo, but the original site is actually at Panamá Viejo. It’s located a few kilometers to the northeast and is included in the UNESCO World Heritage listing for the Colonial Transisthmian Route of Panamá.
History of Panamá Viejo
Panama City was founded by Spanish conquistador Pedro Arias Dávila (c. 1440 – 1531) on August 15, 1519, as Nuestra Señora de la Asunción de Panamá, making it the oldest European settlement on the Pacific coast. It grew to become one of the greatest and richest cities of the New World. However, the city was reduced to rubble after pirate Henry Morgan (c. 1635-1688) sacked it in 1671. The city relocated to what is now the Casco Viejo area and rebuilt from scratch.
Visiting Panamá Viejo
Panamá Viejo was once left to the elements but is now an enclosed archaeological site. Admission foreigners and non-residents is US$17 for adults, US$7 for bachelor’s and technical students with a valid ID, and US$5 for kids (as of October 2025). The site is open daily except Mondays from 8:30am to 5:30pm. Check the official website for more info.
The only entrance is on the south side of the archaeological site. The path through the ruins runs for about 1 kilometer one-way. There’s internal transportation if you don’t want to walk. Interpretive panels at each building explain their function and importance. You’ll find a snack bar, restrooms, and a gift shop at the museum at Plaza Mayor.
Getting to Panamá Viejo
To get to Panamá Viejo, a taxi should be reasonably priced. There are also public buses that run down Avenida Balboa labeled “Panamá Viejo”.
Visitor Center at Panamá Viejo
The visitor center is at the entrance to the archaeological site. When I visited it contained a museum. It gave a good overview of the city, its history, significance, and downfall. There was also a scale model of the city as it was before it was destroyed in 1671.
Path to the Ruins
From the visitor center, a path follows the shoreline to the ruins. You can get a good glimpse of the natural defenses of the city. There were no walls, but thick forests and mangroves provided good protection until 1671. You can also turn around and have a good view of the modern city skyline.
Convent of La Merced
The first ruin you’ll come to is the Convent of La Merced (Convento de La Merced). The Mercedarians arrived in Panama in 1522 and acquired a large area on the western end of the city. They constructed a 1,500-square-meter church and convent in the early 17th century. It was the least affected complex during Morgan’s attack.
The façade of the original church in Panamá Viejo was dismantled piece by piece and reassembled as new Church of La Merced in Casco Viejo. The rest of the remains of the church were damaged during the construction of the old Cincuentenario Avenue.
Convent of San Francisco
Next is the Convent of San Francisco (Convent de San Francisco). This was one of the largest religious complexes in the city at 5,000 square meters. Only about 3,500 square meters remain today.
The complex was built by the Franciscans, who arrived in the early 1520s. They were housed in a temporary building until 1573, when they acquired a plot to build their complex. The convent was built between 1589 and 1601 and accommodated about 60 monks. Construction on the church began in 1603. In addition to the church, and convent, there was also a cloister.
The church contained a chapel dedicated to St. Anthony with a carving of St. Francis, an altarpiece of SS Cosmas and Damian, and an altar dedicated to St. Eligius.
Hospital San Juan de Dios
Hospital San Juan de Dios was founded as Hospital San Sebastián in 1521. It was originally a small wooden building that could only cover emergencies. It was enlarged in 1540 to include housing for hospital workers and better conditions for patients.
By 1575, the hospital was under the strict watch of a butler appointed by the Real Audiencia (Royal Audience) or the bishop. It was served by women and slaves and functioned in a more orderly manner. The butler was in charge of financial aspects as well as repairs.
In 1585, donations allowed the hospital to move to its current location as well as purchase four houses to lease to cover hospital expenses. It had acquired 10 houses by 1610, but medical care was still poor, with more patients leaving in a box than on foot. Because of this, the Order of Hospitallers of St. John of God took over in 1620, hence the name. Four religious orders arrived from Lima to take over administration and the mortality rate decreased by 1629.
The hospital grew to occupy an entire block and covered an area of 2,500 square meters. It included a church, cloister, patient rooms, and courtyards. A military hospital also operated there. By 1671, the hospital owned 20 houses and had about 20 friars attending to patients.
Convent of the Conception
The Convent of the Conception (Convent de la Concepción) was run by the nuns of Our Lady of the Conception (Nuestra Señora de la Concepción) and was the only female religious congregation established in the colonial city. It’s also one of the largest archaeological sites at Panamá Viejo.
The first four nuns arrived from Lima in 1598 and quickly grew their congregation. They had a church and cloister by 1604 but it was severely damaged by an earthquake in 1621. Construction on a new church began in 1640 and it was unfinished in 1671.
The complex grew to occupy an area of around 6,800 square meters. Today, it’s possible to climb up a staircase in the church for a better view.
You can also see a large cistern capable of holding over 124,000 liters of water. The cistern consisted of four vaults supported by arches and stone columns. It was built in the middle of the 17th century and was unique in Panamá Viejo.
Jesuit Convent
The Jesuit Convent, or the Convent of the Society of Jesus (Convent de la Compañía de Jesús), was a huge complex covering 5,000 square meters. It was founded in 1578 by Fr. Miguel de Fuentes. In 1582, it was operating out of a wooden house. Construction on the stone buildings of the complex began in 1610 under architect Fr. Andrés Alonso de Valladolid. It was funded by donations and used mainly for public educational purposes and conversion of indigenous peoples.
The church had a central nave with two aisle and often served as the cathedral. There were two entrances facing the street and a third door opening to the cloister. The cloister, of which only the foundations and column bases survive, had a wooden gallery. Monastic cells were likely on the top floor while the refectory and other offices were on the ground floor.
Plaza Mayor
Continuing along a path shaded by trees, you’ll come to Plaza Mayor. This was the main square of old Panama City and the center of social, religious, economic, political, and cultural activities. The plaza measured roughly 69 x 57 meters and was relatively small compared to the size and importance of the city.
The Plaza Mayor Museum (Museo de la Plaza Mayor) opened on the west side on August 10, 2017. It was under construction when I visited.
Cathedral of Our Lady of the Assumption
The Cathedral of Our Lady of the Assumption (Catedral de Nuestra Señora de la Asunción) is on the east side of Plaza Mayor. Construction began in 1535 under Bishop Tomás de Berlanga (1487-1551) and it was originally built out of wood. It was destroyed by fire in 1540 and rebuilt out of wood. By 1587, the building was in disrepair, and again it was rebuilt out of wood.
The current cathedral was built out of stone between 1619 and 1626 under Bishop Francisco de Cámara. Quarryman Cristóbal de Armiñán oversaw construction. The huge nave, which was about 40 meters wide, leaves you wondering about the grandeur of the building.
The reconstructed bell tower is the true highlight. It features a modern staircase leading to the top for fantastic panoramic views of the city and the entire archaeological site. There are 115 steps and 3 levels, each with interpretive panels. Not surprisingly, the structure was also used as a watchtower for enemy invaders.
Cabildo
The Cabildo, which hosted the city council, was attached to the south side of the cathedral. It was the second most important building in the city and consisted of a room on the ground floor facing the square and two shops facing the street to the south. It also had a yard next to the church grounds. The upper level contained the meeting room of the city council and other offices.
The city council was established in 1521 when Charles V, Holy Roman Emperor and King of Spain (as Carlos I), granted Panama the title of city. Some structures were built by 1540, serving as the mayor’s residence, but they were destroyed by fire. In 1583, a two-story brick building was constructed to hold meetings of the Cabildo. It collapsed during an earthquake in 1621 and was rebuilt by 1640.
Casas de Terrín
The Casas de Terrín, on the north side of Plaza Mayor, were constructed around 1600 by Francisco Terrín, one of the most powerful men in the city. They occupied an entire block. The side facing the plaza featured a long arcade.
West Houses
The West Houses (Casas Oeste) sat along the west side of Plaza Mayor. They consisted of a simple block of residences with two floors. The homes were separated by a corridor and likely had wooden walls on stone foundations. Due to their prestigious location, they probably belonged to wealthy citizens. Today, only the remains of the column bases survive.
Casa Alarcón
Casa Alarcón is just north of the cathedral. It was originally built around 1590 by the clergy to rent out to fund the reconstruction of the cathedral. Bishops occupied the house and it was known as the Casa del Obispo. It was later auctioned and purchased by Pedro de Alarcón, a wealthy citizen, in 1640. He had it demolished and built a large stone house covering an area of 900 square meters.
Casa Alarcón is the best preserved and likely the largest house in Panamá Viejo. The structure is square and has stairs leading to the upper floor. An attached courtyard contained two smaller buildings intended to house servants. Distinguished visitors often stayed in the house.
Convent of Santo Domingo
The Convent of Santo Domingo (Convento de Santo Domingo) was founded by the Dominicans in 1571 and built in several phases. It was one of the smallest religious complexes in the city but centrally located. It covered an area of roughly 3,650 square meters and had a cloister and church.
In 1577, the complex was still made of wood and tiles, and masonry construction began in the early 17th century. The buildings withstood the earthquake in 1621 very well.
House of the Genoese
The House of the Genoese (Casa de los Genoveses) served as the city’s slave market. It was owned by a pair of Genoese merchants, likely Domingo Grillo and Ambrosio Lomelin, who trafficked African slaves. It was built in the late 16th century. The ruins sit on the northeast corner of the archaeological site and it was the largest domestic complex in the city.
Royal Houses
The Royal Houses (Casas Reales) are a short walk south. They were the center of power in Panama City and hosted the dependencies of the Kingdom of Spain. The houses consisted of the Royal Treasury, the Royal Court, the governor’s residence, and court prison. It was a large complex built in several stages throughout the 16th century and was separated from the rest of the city by a moat.
By the 1580s, the Royal Houses were six wooden and stone buildings. In 1586, Italian engineer Battista Antonelli (1547-1616) doubled the size of the complex, which put a heavy burden on the Royal Treasury for maintenance costs. Antonelli’s nephew, Cristóbal de Roda Antonelli (1560-1631), continued fortifying the complex in 1609, but his idea to build a fortress was never carried out.
The Royal Houses were severely damaged by the earthquake of 1621. They were repaired but demolished in 1647 with the intention of building a new complex. A design was proposed in 1641 by Antonio de Fonseca y Oriochea but it was never constructed.
After the abandonment of the city, the tides eroded most of the remains of the Royal Houses. In the middle of the 20th century, a police barracks was built next to the ruins. The military also built several structures on top, including a heliport, in the 1970s and 80s.
Outside the Panamá Viejo Archaeological Complex
Outside the archeological complex are a few more structures.
Matadero Bridge
Just outside the entrance to the archaeological site is the Matadero Bridge (Puente del Matadero). It crosses the Algarrobo River and was the entry point to the city. It was built because the tides and alligators made the natural passage impossible. The bridge was initially built with wood and replaced with a stone bridge in 1607.
The Matadero Bridge, which has one arch, was used for vehicle traffic until 1953. It has one arch and is named for the slaughterhouse that once stood in the area. Near the bridge it’s possible see the remains of a grain mill.
Fort of the Nativity
The Fort of the Nativity (Fortín de la Natividad), which was likely built after 1616, is just past the bridge. It was a small structure that could accommodate only 12 soldiers and 4 artillery pieces. It was the main defense of the city from the west. Henry Morgan and his pirates likely entered the city by crossing the Matadero Bridge and attacking the fort.
Morelos Monument
Just outside the visitor center is the Morelos Monument. It’s a statue of Mexican priest and revolutionary leader José María Morelos (1765-1815). It was dedicated on May 10, 1940, to honor the ties of friendship between Mexico and Panama.
Convent of San José
A few blocks north is the Convent of San José (Convento de San José). It was established by the Augustinians between 1604 and 1610. Construction began between 1615 and 1620, but the president of the Real Audiencia had it demolished. What you see today was built in the middle of the 17th century.
The complex was very modest. It was one of the buildings that suffered the least from Morgan’s attack because it was located on the outskirts of the city. Only the remains of the church can be seen today, while the convent and cloister disappeared in the 20th century.
King’s Bridge
Nearby is the King’s Bridge (Puente del Rey). It crossed the Gallinero River, which today is Río Abajo. It was built between 1619 and 1634 by a masonry expert from Cartagena and was the northern entrance to the city.
