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Casco Viejo is the old town of Panama City. It’s included in the UNESCO World Heritage listing for the Colonial Transisthmian Route of Panamá.
Introduction to Casco Viejo
Casco Viejo was commissioned by Antonio Fernández de Córdoba in 1672. It replaced the original site of Panama City, which was sacked a year earlier by pirate Henry Morgan and subsequently burned down. It was completed and settled in 1673, with the re-founding of the city taking place on January 21, 1673.
Casco Viejo, also known as Casco Antiguo and San Felipe, was built on a peninsula and surrounded by a defensive wall. The current layout dates to the late 19th and early 20th century. Today, you’ll find many important historic sites, a few museums, and some churches, as well as boutique hotels, restaurants, and nightclubs.
The area features a mixture of Spanish, French, American, Neoclassical, and Afro-Antillean-style construction as well as ruined Colonial buildings. Many have undergone extensive restorations. Simply wandering the streets in this area is a treat, especially with the odd run-down building mixed in.
Safety in Casco Viejo
Casco Viejo is safe but don’t wander too far off the peninsula. It’s connected to one of the worst neighborhoods in Panama City. If you do plan to go inland, do it during the daytime only and don’t wander onto any side streets west of Avenida Central.
Getting to Casco Viejo
To get to Casco Viejo, you can take the metro to Plaza Cinco de Mayo. From there, you can take a taxi. During the daylight hours, you can safely walk down Avenida Central.
Plaza de Francia
Plaza de Francia is a good place to start exploring Casco Viejo. It sits at the very end of the small peninsula and was once known as Punta de Chiriquí. In 1921, President Belisario Porras (1856-1942) dedicated the plaza to the original French Panama Canal project attempt that took place between 1881 and 1889. It was designed by Peruvian architect Leonardo Villanueva Meyer (1891-1981) and inaugurated on December 4, 1923.
Monument to Pablo Arosemena
In the center of the plaza is a monument to Pablo Arosemena (1836-1920), who was the first designated president of Panama from 1904 to 1906. He also served another term from 1910 to 1912. The monument features a bronze statue of Arosemena standing on a pedestal.
Monument to the French
At the far end of the plaza is a monument dedicated to the French Panama Canal effort. In the center is an obelisk standing 18 meters high, topped by a French rooster. Surrounding the obelisk are the busts of engineers Ferdinand de Lesseps (1805-1894), Armand Reclus (1843-1927), Lucien Bonaparte-Wyse (1845-1909), León Boyer (1851-1886), and Pedro J. Sosa (1851-1898).
Behind the obelisk is a plaque honoring Carlos Finlay (1833-1915), the Cuban doctor who discovered how mosquitoes transmit yellow fever. This allowed the US builders of the Panama Canal to reduce cases and deaths due to the disease.
There’s also a semicircular gallery chronicling the history of the Panama Canal. It contains 10 marble plates, each 10 feet wide by 6 feet high. The first 3 outline the ideas and first attempts to build the canal while the 10th covers its completion.
Paseo de Las Bóvedas
Paseo de Las Bóvedas is a walkway that sits atop a series of vaults built by the Spanish in the 18th century. They were used as barracks, warehouses, and a prison. You can access it by walking up the stairs next to the monument.
The walkway provides great views of the modern city, the plaza, and the Pacific Ocean, where many ships await to transit the Panama Canal. Although it’s commonly known as Paseo de Las Bóvedas, the walkway was officially renamed Paseo de Lesseps on November 24, 1928. In 1944, it became Paseo Esteban Huertas, in honor of Estaban Huertas (1876-1943), a Colombian military leader who fought for Panamanian independence.
A small plaque at about the halfway point marks the site where on November 3, 1903, Captain Raúl Chevalier (1882-?) fired a cannon at a Colombian battleship which then returned fire. The Colombian ship was pursued by US Navy gunboats forcing it to retreat, thus securing Panamanian independence from Colombia.
The northern part of the walkway is under a bougainvillea arch where several vendors sell souvenirs such as Panama hats, fridge magnets, license plates, and artwork.
Palace of Justice
The Palace of Justice (Palacio de Justicia) is on the east side of Plaza de Francia. It was designed by Italian architect Gennaro Ruggieri in 1924 but construction didn’t begin until 1930. Work was suspended on January 2, 1931, when Ruggieri’s friend, President Florencio Harmodio Arosemena (1872-1945) was overthrown. Ruggieri fled the county, and Rogelio Navarro took over the project in April 1931. Navarro made some modifications to the plans and completed the building between 1935 and 1936.
The building functioned as the country’s Supreme Court until 1991. It then reopened as the headquarters of the National Institute of Culture (Instituto Nacional de Cultura) in 1993. The courtroom was converted into the Teatro Anita Villalaz in 1996. When the National Institute of Culture was elevated to the Ministry of Culture (Ministerio de Cultura) in 2019, the main offices moved out of the building. It’s currently undergoing restoration, which is expected to last until late 2028 (as of October 2025).
The Palace of Justice features four decorative medallions on the ground floor of the façade. They depict archivist Manuel José de Ayala (1728-1805); José Joaquín Ortiz y Gálvez (1774 – mid-19th century), deputy of the district of Panama before the Cortes of Cádiz; lawyer and politician Miguel Chiari (1808-1881); and lawyer and politician Justo Arosemena (1817-1896).
French Embassy
Also on the plaza is the French Embassy. It’s housed in a mansion that dates to around 1915, while the land on which it stands was given to France in 1908.
Union Club Building
The former Union Club building sits along the ocean a few steps north of Plaza de Francia. It opened in 1917 and was designed by James C. Wright (1889-1958). During its history, it welcomed celebrities and dignitaries, such as Queen Elizabeth II in 1953.
In 1969, it became the Club de Clases y Tropas (Classes and Troops Club), which hosted sporting and cultural activities for Panamanian military officers. The club was once a popular hangout of dictator Manuel Noriega (1934-2017), and was destroyed on December 20, 1989, during the US invasion of Panama. The building was under reconstruction at the time of my visit. It reopened as the Sofitel Legend Casco Viejo on January 19, 2023.
Plazoleta Medio Baluarte
Plazoleta Medio Baluarte is next to the Union Club. It’s a pleasant park surrounded by beautiful architecture and a fountain in the center. From one side you’ll find decent views of the modern city.
Plaza Carlos V
Plaza Carlos V is a short walk west of the Union Club. It’s dedicated to Charles V, Holy Roman Emperor and King of Spain (as Carlos I), who ordered the first survey for a route for ships traveling between Peru and Spain. It’s a small but pleasant space with a bust of the emperor in the center.
Church of Santo Domingo
The ruined Church of Santo Domingo (Iglesia de Santo Domingo) is a few steps away. It was one of the first churches built in the new Panama City, completed in 1678. The structure measured roughly 20 meters wide by 48 meters long and stood about 14 meters high. It had a single nave with eight side chapels. Along with the attached Dominican convent, the complex occupied a half block.
Fires gutted the church in 1737 and 1756 and it was never rebuilt. A much smaller chapel was later added on the side. The convent closed shortly after 1803.
In 1860, the entire property was acquired by French citizen Jacques Joly de Sablah. His son, Theodoro, sold sections of the convent to people who built their residences inside. Only the façade, arch, and chapel remained intact, and they were declared a National Historical Monument in 1941. The ruins were restored in 1981, removing a house that occupied the nave of the church as well as a bus terminal in the cloister.
The chapel functioned as the Museum of Colonial Religious Art (Museo de Arte Religioso Colonial), which features religious artifacts dating back to the 16th century, between 1974 and early 2025. It’s currently closed for restoration and will return to its original purpose as a chapel (as of October 2025). The museum will relocate to two halls of the Palace of Government (Palacio del Gobierno) a block north.
Arco Chato
The Church of Santo Domingo is one of the most important buildings in Panamanian history thanks to an arch in the ruins. The Arco Chato, which once supported the wooden choir, is the reason Panama was chosen over Nicaragua as the site of the interoceanic canal. It was used as proof that the area was not susceptible to earthquakes because it had survived for over two centuries.
The current arch was reconstructed after it collapsed on November 7, 2003. Before the collapse, it was 15 meters wide and 10.5 meters high.
Plaza Bolívar
Walking a few blocks north, you’ll come to Plaza Bolívar. Originally named Plaza San Francisco, it was created in 1756 after a huge fire destroyed an entire block of houses. It was officially named for Simón Bolívar (1783-1830) in 1926 to commemorate the 100th anniversary of the Amphyctionic Congress. Today, the plaza is surrounded by a handful of important buildings.
Monument to Simón Bolívar
In the center is a large two-sided monument to Simón Bolívar. It was designed by Spanish sculptor Mariano Benlliure (1862-1947) and erected by engineer Julio Poyló (1864-1932) in 1926. One side depicts Bolívar in civilian clothing and holding a scroll, emphasizing his role as a statesman rather than a military leader. The other side contains sculptures of men holding the flags of Argentina, Chile, Bolivia, and Colombia.
Reliefs around the base commemorate the emancipation of slaves, Bolívar proclaimed as the “Father of the Nation”, the cry of independence in Caracas, and the crossing of the Andes. At the top is a condor with its wings outstretched, symbolizing the idea of freedom. Just below are figures of Liberty and Victory.
Bolívar Palace
The Bolívar Palace (Palacio Bolívar), on the east side of the plaza, is an important historic site for all of Latin America. This is where Simón Bolívar held the Amphyctionic Congress on July 15, 1826, urging the union of Latin American countries against Spain. The first constitution of Panama was also drafted and signed in the building.
The complex was originally a Franciscan convent attached to the Church of San Francisco. It was built in the late 17th century and abandoned in 1821. The government of the Republic of Colombia, to which Panama belonged until gaining independence in 1903, expropriated the property. Shortly after, in 1823, they converted it into a military barracks for the Isthmus Battalion (Batallón Istmo).
The complex later functioned as a hospital for foreigners and hosted several schools: Colegio Nacional Balboa (1892-1899), Colegio La Salle (1910-1952), Colegio Panama School (1934-1940), Colegio Javier (1948), Colegio San Agustín (1953-1959), Instituto Bolívar (1959-1999), Instituto Comercial Bolívar (1959), and Primer Ciclo América (1961-1972). Since 2003, it has housed the Ministry of Foreign Affairs (Ministerio de Relaciones Exteriores).
Visiting Bolívar Palace
Free tours in Spanish are offered at 10:30am Monday through Friday (as of October 2025) by making an appointment on the official website at least 48 hours in advance. The complex consists of four pavilions:
- The St. Joan of Arc Pavilion was built between 1921 and 1922 and contains the Bolívar Hall (Salón Bolívar) and the Hall of Acts of the Amphyctionic Congress (Sala de Actas del Congreso Anfictiónico).
- The St. John the Baptist de La Salle Pavilion (Pabellón San Juan Bautista de La Salle) was built in 1926 and includes the library and archives.
- The Constitution Pavilion (Pabellón Constitución), originally the St. Joseph Pavilion (Pabellón San José), was built in 1931.
- The Centennial Pavilion (Pabellón Centenario) was built in 2003 to commemorate the 100th anniversary of the Republic of Panama. During its construction, the foundations of the convent’s laundry and kitchen were discovered.
Church of San Francisco
The Church of San Francisco (Iglesia de San Francisco) is attached to the south. It was originally built by the Franciscans in the late 17th century but destroyed by fire in 1737 and 1756. The current structure dates back to 1756. The Jesuits administered the church between 1880 and 1896, followed by the Piarists and the Brothers of La Salle.
Leonardo Villanueva Meyer directed a major renovation in 1918, altering the façade and adding a new bell tower with a dome. The bell tower stands 25 meters high. Another renovation took place between 1999 and 2003, and after more work, it reopened for worship on March 19, 2016. The altarpiece is a glass mosaic made in Venice in the 1950s
National Theatre
The magnificent National Theatre (Teatro Nacional) is across the street on the southeast corner of the plaza. It was built between 1904 and 1907. The theatre, which can accommodate 853 people, was designed in the Neoclassical style by Italian architect Gennaro Ruggieri. It opened on October 1, 1908, with a performance of Aida by the Lombardi Opera Company. The ceiling frescoes were painted by Roberto Lewis (1874-1929).
The theatre occupies the former site of the Convent of the Conception, which was built in 1673 by the Conceptionists. They were expelled from the country in 1862 and the convent was converted into a barracks. It was later abandoned and demolished at the beginning of the 20th century to make way for the theatre.
The façade contains six medallions depicting Richard Wagner, William Shakespeare, Molière, Gioachino Rossini, Miguel de Cervantes and Lope de Vega. There are also statues of the muses Erato and Melpomene.
Hotel Colombia
The former Hotel Colombia is on the west side of the plaza. It was designed by Peruvian architect Leonardo Villanueva Meyer (1891-1981) in an Andalusian style with Neocolonial features. The hotel opened in 1933 and had 33 rooms, some with shared bathrooms. The building was one of the tallest in Casco Viejo at the time and has two lookout towers with fantastic views. It also has a rooftop swimming pool. In the 1990s, the building was converted into luxury apartments and short-term rentals. You’ll also find restaurants on the ground floor.
Plaza de la Independencia
Plaza de la Independencia is the main plaza in Casco Antigua. It was laid out in 1673 as Plaza Mayor and later became Plaza Catedral in the 19th century. In 1903, Panama declared its independence from Colombia in the plaza, giving it its current name.
The plaza measures 57 x 57 meters. It was originally a dirt field used for markets, announcements, and public events. It’s surrounded by several beautiful buildings. It was expanded after fires in 1756, and landscaped by the late 19th century. Today, it’s surrounded by several historic buildings and contains a gazebo and some busts in the center.
Metropolitan Cathedral
The Metropolitan Cathedral (Catedral Metropolitana) is on the west side of the plaza. Officially the Metropolitan Archcathedral Basilica of Santa María la Antigua (Catedral Basílica Santa María la Antigua de Panamá), it was built between 1688 and 1796. It was designed by Nicolás Rodríguez and serves as the seat of the Archdiocese of Panama. The cathedral was elevated to a minor basilica on December 22, 2014.
The cathedral features a stone Renaissance-style façade flanked by two plastered bell towers. The current bells were forged in the 18th century. Several statues stand in niches around and above the entrance portal.
Inside is a central nave with two aisled covered by a gabled roof. The altarpiece was built in the late 19th century. The cathedral also holds the relics of St. Aurelio of Córdoba and St. Getulius.
Municipal Palace
The Municipal Palace (Palacio Municipal) is on the southwest corner. It was designed by Italian architect Gennaro Ruggieri and built between 1907 and 1910 by engineer and future president Florencio Harmodio Arosemena (1872-1945).
The building, which stands on the site of the Cabildo of Panama City, is officially named for Demetrio Brid (1859-1917), a founding father of Panama. It was originally meant to house the mayor’s office but is now the headquarters of the Municipal Council, which is the oldest governmental institution in the Americas. It was founded 1510 by Spanish conquistador Diego de Nicuesa (d. 1511) in Santa María la Antigua del Darién and transferred to Panama City in 1519.
Museum of Panamanian History
The small but worthwhile Museum of Panamanian History (Museo de Historia de Panamá), which opened on December 14, 1977, is on the ground floor of the Municipal Palace. It covers several periods of Panamanian history. Admission is free (as of October 2025) and includes a guided tour in Spanish. It’s open daily except Mondays.
The museum is divided into three rooms: the Colonial History Room (1501 to 1821), the Departmental History Room (1821 to 1903) and the Republican History Room (1903 to the present). The collection includes several artifacts related to Panamanian independence, the construction of the Panama Canal, the 1964 riots against the US (Martyrs’ Day), the Noriega years and the 1989 US invasion, and the present.
Panama Canal Museum
Next door is the fantastic Panama Canal Museum (Museo del Canal), which opened to the public on September 9, 1997. It chronicles the history and construction of the Panama Canal and features fascinating photos and artifacts from both the French and American projects. There are also temporary exhibitions displaying art, archaeology, history, and photography. Admission for non-resident foreigners is US$15 for adults, US$7.50 for kids and students, and free for kids under 5 (as of October 2025). It’s open daily except Mondays from 9am to 6pm and is worth a couple hours of exploration.
The museum building was originally constructed as the Grand Hotel, which was built in 1874 by French businessman George Loew. It was sold to Ferdinand de Lesseps (1805-1894) in 1881 and converted into the headquarters of the Universal Company of the French Interoceanic Canal. Most of the building was used as offices while one floor was reserved for lodging for high-ranking employees. The U.S. Canal Commission later moved into the building until it relocated to Balboa in 1910. In 1915, the Panamanian government purchased the building and used it for municipal offices.
Central Hotel
On the east side is the historic Central Hotel. It was built by French entrepreneur Emil Dreyfous and opened as Panama’s first luxury hotel in 1874. The building was damaged by fire in 1878 and it was reconstructed in 1883. The hotel hosted Theodore Roosevelt during the construction of the Panama Canal.
Julio Canavaggio purchased the hotel in 1917 and added an additional floor as well as an elevator. As the neighborhood declined in prestige, the hotel lost its status and eventually closed in 2000. It was renovated and reopened in 2016. The building is situated around a central courtyard and features high ceilings, wooden flooring, and colonial decor. There’s also a rooftop pool and terrace bar.
Palacio de las Garzas
A few steps north of Plaza de la Independencia is the Palacio de las Garzas (Palace of the Herons), which is the official residence of the President of Panama. Construction began in 1673 and it was restored and modernized in 1922. As you can imagine, the area is heavily guarded and restricted. I was only able to get a glimpse from a distance.
Jesuit Church
The ruined Jesuit Church (Iglesia de la Compañía de Jesús) is a block south of Plaza de la Independencia. After losing all their property in Panamá Viejo, the Jesuits moved to Casco Viejo and continued their educational work at the Jesuit College (Colegio de la Compañía de Jesús). They were finally granted a license by royal decree on June 3, 1749, to found the professorships of philosophy, moral theology, and scholasticism. As a result, the Jesuit College became the Royal Pontifical University of San Javier (La Universidad Real y Pontificia de San Javier). It was the first university in Panama.
The convent was completed in 1751, but the Jesuits were later expelled by King Carlos III of Spain in 1767. The church was likely unfinished at the time. The complex fell into disuse and was damaged by fire in 1781 and an earthquake in 1882. The shell of the nave was used as a stable and two homes were also built inside. The structures were removed from the ruins in 1982. As for the convent, in 1917, one wing began to hosted the first synagogue in Panama.
Church of San José
On the next block to the west is the Church of San José (Iglesia de San José). It was built between 1675 and 1677 and holds the Golden Altar (Altar de Oro). It’s a gilded Baroque altarpiece with three levels and the only thing salvaged after Henry Morgan sacked Panamá Viejo in 1671. The church has a single nave and a bell tower on the left side of the façade.
Plaza Herrera
Plaza Herrera is a nice square on the southwest corner of Casco Viejo. It was created after a fire in 1781 destroyed several houses that once occupied the space. The original name was Plaza del Triunfo and it was renamed in honor of General Tomás Herrera (1804-1854) in 1887. The plaza once held public celebrations and bullfights. Today, it features several benches and trees and is surrounded by a couple restaurants.
Monument to Tomás Herrera
In the center of the plaza is an equestrian statue of General Tomás Herrera. It was designed by French sculptor Auguste Denis and erected in 1928. At the base is a glass case holding soil from the battlefield at Ayacucho, Peru, where Herrera earned the rank of captain. The original case was stolen in 2008.
Casa de la Municipalidad
A block north is the Casa de la Municipalidad, which houses the government offices of the municipality. It was built as the Mansión Arias-Feraud in the first quarter of the 20th century. Inside are the remains of the Puerta de Tierra, an old city gate. It’s open to the public free of charge, Monday through Friday between 8am and 4pm (as of June 2025).
Church of La Merced
Across the street is the Church of La Merced (Iglesia de La Merced). It was built in 1680, with the façade moved piece by piece from the original church in Panamá Viejo. The façade, which was originally carved in 1620, is flanked by two chapels. One is dedicated to Our Lady of Mercy and the other is a mausoleum.
The church consists of a central nave and two aisles lined with altars. The Museum of La Merced, which was inaugurated in 2019, is attached to the church. It contains over 100 religious and historic documents from Panama as well as items belonging to the clergy of Panamá Viejo. Admission to the museum is free (as of June 2025) and it’s open daily except Mondays.
Plaza Santa Ana
Plaza Santa Ana is on the western edge of Casco Viejo. It contains one of the most important churches in Panama City, the Church of Santa Ana (Iglesia de Santa Ana), which was built starting in 1678 and consecrated on January 20, 1764.
Before it was converted into a market square in the 19th century, it held bullfights. In 1890, it became a park with trees, paths, and benches. The domed gazebo in the center was added in 1922. It’s not a great idea to head further west from there or visit at night.
Beyond Casco Viejo
For an authentic look at life in Panama City, walk down Avenida Central to Plaza 5 de Mayo. Many people are told to stay away from the area for safety reasons, but you should be fine during the day. Don’t go at night, keep your valuables out of sight, and beware of pickpockets. Also, stay on Avenida Central and don’t wander off onto any side streets.
Avenida Central
Take a walk down the pedestrianized Avenida Central from Plaza Santa Ana for an authentic look at everyday life in Panama City. It was the main commercial street in the city from the late 19th century through the middle of the 20th century. In its earlier years, it was served by a tram.
Today, Avenida Central is still full of life. It contains several blocks of shops and street vendors where Panamanians buy everyday goods, electronics, food, clothing, and more. You’ll also find a mix of architecture from Art Deco to modern buildings, but many seem neglected.
Plaza 5 de Mayo
Avenida Central ends at Plaza 5 de Mayo, which is a busy transit point. You’ll see the old railway station (Antigua Estación del Ferrocarril) on one side. It was built in 1912 and operated until 1960 before it was converted into an anthropological museum. The museum closed in 2013 and may reopen in late 2026 (as of June 2025).
Monument to the Heroes of El Polvorín
In the center of Plaza 5 de Mayo is the Monument to the Heroes of El Polvorín (Monumento a los Héroes del Polvorín). It’s dedicated to the Polvorín Tragedy (Tragedia del Polvorín), in which 6 firefighters died responding to a fire at a gunpowder factory on May 5, 1914. The monument was unveiled on May 5, 1916, by President Belisario Porras (1856-1942). It consists of an obelisk with statues of angels on the base. The fountains around the monument were removed in 2017.
Afro-Antillean Museum
Finally, near the 5 de Mayo metro station is the Afro-Antillean Museum (Museo Afro Antillano). This small but informative museum chronicles the history of Panama’s West Indian community, mostly about their contribution to the construction of the Panama Canal. It’s housed in a former Christian mission church built by Barbadian workers in 1910. Admission is US$1 (as of October 2025). It’s open daily except Mondays from 9am to 3:30pm.
