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Historic downtown Las Vegas is where all the glitz and glamour of Sin City was born. It earned the nickname “Glitter Gulch” because of all the neon lights.
Fremont Street
The heart of historic downtown Las Vegas is Fremont Street, where you’ll find some of the oldest hotels and casinos in the city. It’s the second most famous street in Vegas after the Strip.
Fremont Street dates back to 1905 when the city was founded. It’s named for explorer and politician John C. Frémont (1813-1890). In 1925, it became the first paved street in Las Vegas and received the city’s first traffic light in 1931. The street was pedestrianized on September 7, 1994.
Fremont Street Experience
Fremont Street is much different nowadays, with a five-block covered pedestrian mall called the Fremont Street Experience. It opened on December 14, 1995, with the purpose of attracting visitors back to the historic downtown from the Las Vegas Strip. At that time, the Strip was attracting 80% of the casino market.
At night, the street is lit up with a barrel-vaulted LED display canopy over the street presenting light and sound shows. It’s 90 feet (27 meters) high at its peak and four blocks, or roughly 1,375 feet (419 meters) long. Live bands are set up on stages while street performers, street vendors, and street artists can be found everywhere. There’s even a pair of zip lines running the length of the street.
Historic Casinos on Fremont Street
During the day, Fremont Street is much quieter. You might find a few street performers or two, but the noise and people aren’t there. This will give you a chance see the historic casinos that take up most of the street. It’s a great opportunity to imagine what historic downtown Las Vegas might have been like in its heyday.
Binion’s
Binion’s was founded by Benny Binion (1904-1989) after he purchased the Eldorado Club and Hotel Apache in 1951. He reopened them as Binion’s Horseshoe and gave the casino a frontier riverboat theme. It was the first casino in downtown Las Vegas with carpeting and the first to offer comps to all gamblers. Binion’s was also the first to introduce high table limits. The Binion family ran the casino until 2004.
The hotel was remodeled and reopened as the Hotel Apache in 2019, paying homage to the original hotel opened by the Silvagni family on March 19, 1932. It features vintage furnishings.
Golden Nugget
Across the street is the Golden Nugget, which opened in 1946. Both Jackie Gaughan (1920-2014) and Steve Wynn both had a stake in the casino, and it was the foundation for Wynn’s rise to prominence. Landry’s Inc. purchased the Golden Nugget on September 27, 2005, and expanded and upgraded all aspects of the property. Frank Sinatra (1915-1998) often headlined at the casino.
Since 1981, the Golden Nugget has displayed the Hand of Faith, the world’s largest gold nugget. It was found by Kevin Hillier near Kingower, Victoria, Australia, on September 26, 1980. It weighs 60 pounds (27.2 kilograms) and is 18 inches (46 centimeters) in length. There are also two huge aquariums with sharks.
Four Queens
Next is the Four Queens, which opened on June 2, 1966. It was developed by Ben Goffstein (1908-1967), who named it in honor of his four daughters. From 1973 to 2003, the Four Queens was owned by the Elsinore Corporation. It was sold to Terry Caudill in 2003.
The Four Queens introduced the world’s largest slot machine, the Queen’s Machine, in 1985. It measured 9 feet high, 18 feet long, and 8 feet wide, supporting up to 6 players simultaneously and a US$2 million jackpot. It remained on the casino floor until the mid-1990s. Later, in 1996, it debuted the world’s largest blackjack table.
Fremont Hotel and Casino
The Fremont Hotel and Casino was designed by architect Wayne McAllister (1907-2000) and opened on May 18, 1956, as the tallest building in Nevada. It was owned by Ed Levinson (1898-1981) and financed by Lou Lurie (1888-1972). Wayne Newton made his Las Vegas debut at the Fremont in 1959, and several scenes from the 1996 movie Swingers were filmed there.
Golden Gate Hotel and Casino
John F. Miller (1864-1957) built the Golden Gate in 1906 as Hotel Nevada, the first hotel and casino in Las Vegas. The casino operated until 1909, when gambling was made illegal in Nevada. The first telephone in Las Vegas was installed there in 1907. The property was expanded in 1931 and renamed Sal Sagev, “Las Vegas” spelled backwards. The Golden Gate Casino, a separate business, opened on the ground floor of the hotel in 1955. The casino purchased the hotel in 1974 and renamed the entire property Golden Gate. Derek and Greg Stevens purchased a 50% stake in the property in March 2008 and became full owners in 2016. They purchased the former La Bayou casino, tore it down, and expanded the Golden Gate. Today, it’s the oldest continuously operating hotel in Las Vegas.
Las Vegas Club (Permanently Closed)
The Las Vegas Club was open from 1930 to 2015. It was originally on the south side of Fremont Street and was owned by John Kell Houssels Sr. (1895–1979) and his partners John Horden (d. 1941) and A.F. Gilmore. After Horden’s death, Benny Binion became a partner for a short time in the mid-1940s. In 1949, it moved to the ground floor of the Overland Hotel at Fremont and Main Streets.
In May 1962, Jackie Gaughan (1920-2014), Mel Exber (1923-2002), and Larry Hezzelwood (1898-1962) purchased the Las Vegas Club and Overland Hotel. A sports theme was added by 1970 and the property included the Sports Hall of Fame exhibiting memorabilia owned by Exber. Two towers were eventually added. Gaughan sold the Las Vegas Club to Barrick Gaming and the Tamares Group in 2004, with Tamares buying out Barrick’s shares in June 2005. The club struggled financially and was eventually sold to Derek and Greg Stevens on August 14, 2015. They shut it down six days later and it was demolished by 2018, along with Mermaids and the Glitter Gulch Strip Club. It was replaced by the Circa. I was able to see the ongoing demolition of the hotel during my second visit in 2017.
Plaza Hotel & Casino
At the western end of Fremont Street is the Plaza Hotel & Casino. It opened as the Union Plaza Hotel on July 1, 1971, and sits on the site of a Spanish-style railway depot constructed in 1906, followed by a Streamline Moderne station built in 1940 and designed by Henry Gogerty (1894-1990). It was owned by Sam Boyd (1910-1993), Jackie Gaughan (1920-2014), John Kell Houssels Jr (1922-2017), and Bill Boyd (1906-1997). The Union Plaza was advertised as the largest casino in the world and at the time it opened had a casino floor of 66,000 square feet. Las Vegas Greyhound bus station was also located there from the hotel’s opening until the station moved on February 23, 2021.
Barrick Gaming purchased the Union Plaza from Gaughan in 2004, and later sold it to the Tamares Group in late 2005. The name changed to the Plaza Hotel & Casino, and closed the hotel for renovation between November 11, 2010, and September 1, 2011. It has been featured in several movies, television shows, and music videos.
Vegas Vic
Vegas Vic, the neon cowboy sign from the now-defunct Pioneer Club (1942 to 1995), is still on display for all to see. He stands 40 feet (12 meters) high and was added to the casino in 1951. It used to speak and the arm stopped moving in 1991. The Pioneer Club is now a souvenir store.
Fremont East District
The Fremont East District consists of six city blocks running to the east of the Fremont Street Experience. It was created in 2002, with three blocks redeveloped between 2004 and 2007 as an arts and entertainment area. A few more restaurants, casinos, and lots of neon signs are located there.
The Mob Museum
The Mob Museum, officially the National Museum of Organized Crime and Law Enforcement, is one of the most intriguing museums I’ve ever visited. It’s situated in the former federal courthouse in historic downtown Las Vegas, just two blocks from Fremont Street. I spent about three hours there but could have stayed much longer.
The Mob Museum is open daily 9am to 9pm. An adult general admission ticket costs US$34.95, admission plus one special experience costs US$49.95, and admission plus two special experiences costs US$54.95 (as of April 2024). Discounts are available if purchased online or with coupons, and for Nevada residents.
Obviously, there have been several changes since my visit, so the exhibits and artifacts I’ve written about below may be different. Hopefully I’ll get another chance to see the museum again to update this post.
Birth of the Mob
The first exhibits of the Mob Museum cover the origins of organized crime in America. One of the first artifacts really gets your attention. The original bullet-riddled wall from the 1929 St. Valentine’s Day Massacre in Chicago stands right in front of you. There’s also a replica of Old Sparky, the electric chair from Sing Sing, a stark reminder that crime doesn’t pay.
Moving along, organized crime is examined through the role it played in different areas it manipulated, including fixing sporting events, smuggling alcohol during Prohibition, illegal drugs, and gambling. From the sports world, you’ll learn the stories of certain teams caught cheating due to pressure from organized crime. Artifacts such as a ticket from the 1919 World Series, marred by the Black Sox Scandal, are on display.
Kefauver Committee Courtroom
One of the most interesting exhibits is situated in an actual courtroom on the second floor. In that courtroom, one of fourteen Kefauver Committee hearings took place on November 14, 1950, regarding organized crime involvement in the Las Vegas casino industry. These heavily publicized and televised hearings exposed the vast network of organized crime to Americans. Personal items owned by Tennessee Senator Estes Kefauver (1903-1963), the head of the committee, are also on display.
The Mob and Vegas
The role of the mob in casinos and Las Vegas is carefully examined. Items from the 1946 opening of the Flamingo, Las Vegas’ first luxury resort, and other artifacts from the city’s heyday are on display. You’ll also see items used by cheaters trying to “beat the house”.
The Mob and Corruption
Politics weren’t immune from the mob, either. Newspapers, artifacts, and information about the mob’s role in corruption, including the 1960 presidential election, the JFK assassination, and assassination attempts on Fidel Castro (1926-2016). One of the most interesting items on display is a bullet from Jack Ruby’s (1911-1967) gun.
Getting Whacked
The mafia often took serious matters into their own hands, and many members paid the ultimate price. One section displays weapons used to exact revenge on rivals. The most important artifact on display is the barber chair in which Albert Anastasia (1902-1957) was murdered.
Bringing Down the Mob
Catching perpetrators of organized crime is thoroughly examined. Visitors are able to listen to wiretaps and learn about methods used to catch criminals. You’ll read stories of moles and undercover investigations, and gain new respect for how these people put their lives on the line to expose mafia members.
Hall of Shame
The “Hall of Shame” profiles individual mobsters, both domestic and international, going back to the early 20th century. Several personal items owned by well-known personalities such as John Gotti (1940-2002), Mickey Cohen (1914-1976), and Meyer Lansky (1902-1983) are all on display.
The Mob and Pop Culture
Finally, you’ll enjoy an exhibit about the mob in pop culture. You can see props such as dummies and clothing used in popular films such as Goodfellas and Casino as well as television series such as The Sopranos.
Old Las Vegas Mormon Fort State Historic Park
It’s hard to believe a city like Las Vegas has Mormon roots, but it’s true. On June 14, 1855, Mormon missionaries arrived to build a fort along a creek that flowed from Las Vegas Springs. Old Las Vegas Mormon Fort State Historic Park, which is a short drive north of the historic downtown, preserves what’s left of the oldest building in the city and tells the story of its first settlers. It’s open 8am to 4:30pm from Tuesday to Saturday. Admission is US$3 and free for kids under 13 (as of April 2024).
Visitor Center
Outside the entrance to the visitor center is a statue of Helen Jane Wiser Stewart (1854-1926), the First Lady of Las Vegas. She moved there in 1882 and sold 1,834 acres of her ranch in 1902. That land became the city of Las Vegas. Stewart played an important role in the development of the city until her death. Once inside, you can go through a small museum with displays on the origins of Las Vegas and a scale model of the fort.
The Fort
Outside of the visitor center, you can walk through what’s mostly a replica of the original fort. A plaque stands next to the walls commemorating the first Las Vegas Post Office, which was once on the site. It was erected by the Daughters of Utah Pioneers in 1951.
A small building to the left contains the last surviving adobe bricks of the original fort built between 1855 and 1857. Items that would have been used during that time period are also on display. Nearby is a sign indicating the spot where Helen Stewart’s ranch house once stood until the 1960s.
The replica walls and gates of the fort tell the story of US Army soldiers living at the fort between 1867 and 1869. The Army was sent to protect the settlers in 1860, and a display shows how they might have lived at the time. During the Civil War, the fort was called Fort Baker.
