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St. Mark’s Basilica (Basilica di San Marco) is the most important church in the UNESCO World Heritage city of Venice, Italy. It’s located on Piazza San Marco and combines the Byzantine, Romanesque, and Gothic styles.
Introduction to St. Mark’s Basilica
St. Mark’s Basilica was built to house the relics of St. Mark, which was taken from Alexandria to protect them from destruction by Muslims. Construction on the first church began shortly after the relics arrived in Venice on January 31, 828.
The church was commissioned in the will of Doge Giustiniano Participazio (d. 829) and completed in 836. It was modeled after the Church of the Holy Apostles in Constantinople (now Istanbul), which was demolished in 1461 by the Ottomans to make way for the Fatih Mosque. The church was damaged by fire in 976 during a popular uprising and repaired within two years.
St. Mark’s Basilica was rebuilt and enlarged under Doge Domenico I Contarini (d. 1071), completely altering its appearance, starting in 1063. This included the extension of the north and south transepts, the construction of a narthex, and the enlargement of the crypt. The wooden domes were also rebuilt in brick and a mosaicist was brought in from Constantinople to decorate the interior. The church was dedicated on October 8, 1094, and that same day, the relics of St. Mark were placed into the new crypt.
The famed Pala d’Oro (Golden Altarpiece) was ordered from Constantinople in 1102 and installed on the high altar in 1105. Over the next centuries, the church underwent alterations. Several decorations adorning the church, including the marble panels, were looted during the Sack of Constantinople in 1204 by Doge Enrico Dandolo (c. 1107-1205).
St. Mark’s Basilica served as the personal chapel of the Doge from its construction until the Fall of Venice in 1797. It became the seat of the Patriarch of Venice in 1807, replacing the Basilica of San Pietro in Castello. Today, St. Mark’s Basilica is still active and holds daily services.
Visiting St. Mark’s Basilica
Admission to St. Mark’s Basilica is €3 (as of August 2024). There’s usually a very long line to get into the building but it moves quickly. No photography is allowed inside and visitors must be dressed appropriately – no shorts or bare shoulders. You usually have about 10 minutes to see the interior, as ushers like to keep the line moving quickly.
It’s an additional €5 to see the Pala d’Oro and treasury (as of August 2024). This is well worth it. In the treasury, it’s possible to see several items looted from Constantinople that are so beautiful they’re indescribable.
To visit St. Mark’s Museum (Museo di San Marco), it costs €7 (as of August 2024). It’s located on the upper level and contains the original Horses of St. Mark as well as other valuable items. Entry includes access to the balcony, where you can get excellent views of the Piazza San Marco.
Finally, admission to the Campanile is €10 (as of August 2024). You can ride an elevator to the belfry and enjoy spectacular views of Venice.
Tickets are available at the San Basso Ticket Office on Piazzetta dei Leoncini. Admission is free for kids up to age 6. No backpacks or bags are allowed inside, and they can be stored for a small fee at Ateneo San Basso on Piazzetta dei Leoncini. Check the official website for more info.
Unfortunately, I can’t show you any photos of the interior, but I can say it’s beyond stunning. All of the walls are gold and adorned with several mosaics and other decorations in the Byzantine style. It feels like you’ve been transported from Venice to an ancient Byzantine church.
Exterior of St. Mark’s Basilica
St. Mark’s Basilica measures 76.5 meters long and 62.6 meters wide. The exterior underwent major alterations in the 13th century with the addition of decorations brought back from Constantinople in 1204. This includes Corinthian capitals, statues, and marble panels. Some of the spolia were intermixed with reproductions by Venetian artisans and are almost indistinguishable from the originals.
The main façade of the church faces west. It consists of five arched portals separated by two levels of columns, each decorated with mosaics. You’ll also notice reliefs of saints between each arch.
On the northern façade of the church, facing Piazzetta dei Leoncini, there are marble inlays and reliefs of different origins. The entrance on this side is called the Gate of the Flowers (Porta dei Fiori). Unfortunately I don’t have a good picture.
The southern façade of the church, which is connected to the Doge’s Palace, is decorated with marble looted from Constantinople.
Main Portal of St. Mark’s Basilica
The main portal of St. Mark’s Basilica contains the church’s most recent mosaic, The Appearance of Christ the Judge. It was created between 1836 and 1838 by Liborio Salandri using a design by Lattanzio Querena (1768-1853). The doors on the main portal were looted from Constantinople.
Mosaics of the Translatio
The other four portals on the main façade are also decorated with some spectacular mosaics. Moving from right to left, they narrate the story of the Translatio, or the transfer of St. Mark’s relics from Alexandria to Venice. First, the portal on the far right depicts The transfer of the body of St. Mark to the ship. It was made in 1660 by an unknown artist using a design by by Pietro Vecchia (1603-1678).
Second from right is a mosaic depicting The arrival of the relics of the apostle Mark to Venice. The artist is unknown, but it was also made in 1660 using a design by Vecchia.
The mosaic second from left depicts the Doge and the Venetian seigneury meeting the body of Saint Mark. It was made by Leopoldo dal Pozzo from 1728 to 1729 based on a design by Sebastiano Ricci (1659-1734).
Finally, on the portal to the far left is the oldest and last remaining original mosaic on the entire façade. It was made in the 13th century in a Byzantine style to depict the Procession of the transfer of the relics of St. Mark to the Cathedral.
Horses of St. Mark
The balcony of St. Mark’s Basilica is adorned with the Horses of St. Mark (Cavalli di San Marco). These four horses are attributed to the ancient Greek sculptor Lysippos in the 4th century BC. It’s more likely they were made in the 2nd or 3rd century AD, and later taken to Constantinople from the Greek island of Chios by Emperor Theodosius II.
The horses originally stood atop the Hippodrome of Constantinople along with a quadriga. Doge Enrico Dandolo (c. 1107-1205) sent them to Venice in 1204 and they were installed on the balcony in 1254. Napoleon removed them in 1797 after the Fall of Venice, but they were returned to the city in 1815. What you see now are copies. The originals were removed in 1977, restored, and placed in St. Mark’s Museum in 1982.
Upper Mosaics
The mosaics in the four lunettes above the balcony were made from 1617 to 1618 by Luigi Gaetano using sketches by Maffeo Verona (1576-1618). On the far left is the Descent from the Cross. Next is The Descent of Jesus Christ to Hell. Second from right is the Resurrection of Christ. Finally, to the far right is The Ascension of Christ.
The lunette in the center, behind the Horses of St. Mark, contains a stained glass window. Underneath the mosaic of The Ascension of Christ is a mosaic of St. Nicholas.
Upper Register
The upper register of St. Mark’s Basilica was created in the late 14th and early 15th century in the Gothic style. Crowning the central lunette is a statue of St. Mark. Just below is a golden statue of the Lion of St. Mark on a blue background with gold stars. The lion holds a book inscribed with “Pax tibi Marce evangelista meus” (“Peace to you Mark, my Evangelist”). Warrior saints stand on pedestals atop the other four lunettes.
There are also six aediculae crowned with pinnacles. The four in the center contain statues of the Four Evangelists. The two on the edges feature statues of the Virgin and the Archangel Gabriel, representing the foundation of Venice on March 25, 421, the Feast of the Annunciation.
Portrait of the Four Tetrarchs
You can find the Portrait of the Four Tetrarchs set into a corner on the south façade of the building. This sculpture dating back to 300 AD represents the four rulers of the Roman Empire appointed by Diocletian. It probably decorated the Philadelphion, which was a public square in Constantinople. The figure on the far right is missing a foot, which was discovered in the 1960s near the Bodrum Mosque in the Laleli neighborhood of Istanbul (formerly Constantinople). It’s now on display at the Istanbul Archaeology Museums.
Pillars of Acre
In front of the south façade are the so-called the Pillars of Acre. They were originally thought to have been taken from Acre (now in Israel) after the Venetians defeated the Genoese there in 1258, but they were actually looted from Constantinople. The pillars belonged to the Church of St. Polyeuctus, which was rediscovered in the 1960s at Saraçhane. In the 1990s, archaeologists concluded the pillars at St. Mark’s Basilica matched those found during excavations in Istanbul.
Domes of St. Mark’s Basilica
There are five domes on the church, laid out in the pattern of a cross. They were constructed in the 13th century under Doge Sebastiano Ziani (d. 1178) with designs influenced by Eastern churches and mosques. Each dome contains 16 windows in the drum. The exterior height of the central dome is 43 meters (141 feet) while its interior height is 28.15 meters (92.4 feet).
St. Mark’s Museum
St. Mark’s Museum, which was established in the late 19th century, houses important artifacts belonging to the church. This includes the Horses of St. Mark, altarpieces, vestments, manuscripts, mosaic fragments, and tapestries. The museum is located on the upper level of the church and extends into the former Banquet Hall (Sala dei Banchetti) of the Doge’s Palace. Unfortunately, photos are forbidden inside the museum, but it’s possible to get some great views of Piazza San Marco from the balcony.
St. Mark’s Campanile
St. Mark’s Campanile (Campanile di San Marco) is the bell tower for St. Mark’s Basilica. Construction began in the early 10th century under Doge Pietro Tribuno (d. 912) and it originally served as a watchtower. A belfry with a pyramidal spire was added in the middle of the 12th century under Doge Vitale II Michiel (d. 1172).
The campanile was damaged in an earthquake on March 26, 1511. Pietro Bon (d. 1529) oversaw its reconstruction based on an earlier Renaissance design by Giorgio Spavento (d. 1509). On July 6, 1513, a gilded statue of Archangel Gabriel was placed atop the spire. Structural work was completed in June 1514 and the gilding of the spire a few months later in October 1514.
Although suffering damage from fires and lightning strikes over the next few centuries, the tower succumbed to a botched construction job, collapsing on July 14, 1902. It was rebuilt again and opened on April 25, 1912. A permanent elevator was installed in 1962, allowing visitors to reach the belfry in 30 seconds. Restoration took place between 2007 and April 2013.
The Campanile stands 98.6 meters (323 feet) high and is detached from the church. It’s the tallest structure in Venice and one of the city’s most recognizable symbols.
Loggetta del Sansovino
The Loggetta at the base of the Campanile was built between 1537 and 1549 by Jacopo Sansovino (1486-1570). It served as a sentry post and a gathering place for nobles as well as a meeting place for the Procurators of St. Mark. The Loggetta was mostly destroyed during the collapse in 1912 and was rebuilt along with the Campanile. Today, it serves as the entrance to the elevator.
The Loggetta features three arches likely modeled on the Arch of Constantine in Rome. Bronze statues of Athena, Apollo, Mercury, and Peace, stand in the niches between the arches. Above each arch is a marble relief: Jupiter as
an allegory of Crete (left), Venus as Justice (center), and Venus as an allegory of Cyprus (right). They were created by Danese Cattaneo (c. 1512-1572) and Tiziano Aspetti (1559-1606).
The ornamental bronze gate was made by Antonio Gai (1686-1769) between 1733 and 1734. It features the Lion of St. Mark and figures of Vigilance, Armed Peace, and Public Happiness.
Belfry of St. Mark’s Campanile
There has been a statue of the Archangel Gabriel atop the spire since July 6, 1513. In 1820, a copper statue embossed in gold made by Luigi Zandomeneghi (1779-1850) replaced the original wooden one. The current statue was made of fragments from the 1820 model.
On the belfry, there are statues on each side. Two sides contain the Lion of St. Mark while the other two contain figures of Justice.
Bells of St. Mark’s Campanile
There are five bells in the belfry of St. Mark’s Campanile. Each one had a different purpose, but the bells rang in unison on feast days, elections of the Doge, coronations of the Pope, and the deaths and funerals of the Doge and Pope. They also rang together to announce the deaths of Procurators of St. Mark, wives and sons of the Doge, the Grand Chancellor, and cardinals and foreign ambassadors who died in Venice.
All of the bells cast by Domenico Canciani Dalla Venezia in 1820, save for the Marangona, were destroyed when the Campanile collapsed in 1902. New bells were personally donated by Pope Pius X and recast on April 24, 1909. After two months of tuning, they were transported to Piazza San Marco and raised to the belfry on June 22, 1910.
Features of the Bells
The biggest bell is the Marangona, which is 180 centimeters (71 inches) in diameter and weighs 3,625 kilograms (7,992 pounds). It rang at sunrise, sunset, 108 minutes after sunset, and midnight. It signaled the beginning and the end of the work day, the opening of St. Mark’s Basilica, and the beginning and end of night watch shifts at Piazza San Marco. The Marangona also announced sessions of the Great Council (Maggior Consiglio) as well as the opening and closing of the gates of the Jewish Ghetto
The Nona signaled the midday work break and rang 84 minutes after sunset for letters to be taken to the Rialto for dispatch. It’s 156 centimeters (61 inches) in diameter and weighs 2,556 kilograms (5,635 pounds).
The Meza-terza rang at dawn, 30 minutes after sunrise, and 60 minutes after sunset. It’s 138 centimeters (54 inches) in diameter and weighs 1,807 kilograms (3,984 pounds).
The Trottiera, also known as the Dietro Nona, announced Senate meetings and the last call for Great Council meetings. It also signaled the end of the midday work break. It’s 129 centimeters (51 inches) in diameter and weighs 1,366 kilograms (3,012 pounds).
Finally, the Maleficio, or Renghiera, which was the smallest bell, announced executions and capital punishments ordered by the Council of Ten. It was originally located at the Doge’s Palace and moved to the Campanile in 1569. It’s 116 centimeters (46 inches) in diameter and weighs 1,011 kilograms (2,229 pounds).
Galileo Plaque
On August 21, 1609, Galileo Galilei (1564-1642) demonstrated his telescope to Procurator Antonio Priuli (1548-1623) and other nobles of Venice. Three days later, the telescope was presented to Doge Leonardo Donato (1536-1612). A plaque commemorating the event can be seen in the belfry.
Views from the Belfry
As for the views, to the southwest, you can spot the Basilica of Santa Maria della Salute, Punta della Dogana, and the Royal Gardens.
From the west side, you can see Piazza San Marco and landmarks in the San Marco and Dorsoduro districts.
To the north, you can see the San Marco, San Polo, and Cannaregio districts. There are also fantastic views of the top of the Torre dell’Orologio, located just below on the square.
The Basilica of SS John and Paul (Zanipolo) can be seen in the distance to the northeast, while looking down you can see the domes of St. Mark’s Basilica.
To the east, you can see the Castello district including the Church of San Zaccaria.
The Doge’s Palace is directly below to the southeast, while further in the distance is the rest of the Castello district including the Riva degli Schiavoni.
Finally, to the south just underneath the Campanile is the Piazzetta di San Marco with the Columns of Saint Theodore and Saint Mark. In the distance is the island of San Giorgio Maggiore.
