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Piazza San Marco is the main square in the UNESCO World Heritage city of Venice, Italy. It’s located in the district (sestiere) of San Marco and contains some of the city’s most iconic landmarks.
Introduction to Piazza San Marco
Piazza San Marco, known in English as St. Mark’s Square, was the social, political, and religious center of the Republic of Venice. It started out as a small empty space in front of the Doge’s Palace and St. Mark’s Basilica, but everything changed under Doge Sebastiano Ziani (d. 1178).
Between 1172 and 1178, Ziani and others donated the land to create the square while Ziani funded its construction. Old buildings were demolished to clear the area and it was subsequently paved, largely giving it the shape we see today.
Thanks to its prominent historic sites and many museums, Piazza San Marco is the area of the city most frequented by tourists. It can get extremely crowded and uncomfortable, and I highly recommend purchasing tickets to attractions online well in advance of your visit.
St. Mark’s Basilica
On the east end of the square is St. Mark’s Basilica, which is one of the most incredible churches in the world. St. Mark’s Campanile, the bell tower, is detached and sits in front and to the right. There are too many amazing details to cover so I’ve decided they deserve their own post.
Procuratie
The Procuratie (Procuracies) are three buildings dominating the north, south, and west sides of Piazza San Marco. They were built by the Procurators of St. Mark (Procuratori di San Marco).
The procurators were the second-highest ranking officials in the Republic of Venice behind the Doge and were appointed for life. Beginning in the 9th century, there was originally 1 procurator appointed by the Doge to administer the assets of St. Mark’s Basilica. A second position was added in 1231, a third in 1259, and a fourth after 1261. There were 6 procurators in 1319 and 9 in 1443. The number fluctuated over the next few centuries, with the highest reaching 40.
The responsibilities of the procurators expanded in 1269 to include the financial affairs of state wards; dispensing charity from trust funds established by charitable and religious institutions; caring for orphans and the insane; and executing wills.
In addition to new duties, the procurators were divided geographically. The Procuratori de Supra were the most prestigious, responsible not only for the administration of St. Mark’s Basilica and its treasury, but also the construction, maintenance, and management of buildings around Piazza San Marco. The Procuratori de Citra were responsible for the districts of San Marco, Castello, and Cannaregio, while the Procuratori de Ultra were responsible for San Polo, Santa Croce, and Dorsoduro.
Today, there are seven procurators. Their sole function is to work with architects and engineers to ensure the historic and architectural integrity of St. Mark’s Basilica.
Procuratie Vecchie
The Procuratie Vecchie (Old Procuracies), on the north side of Piazza San Marco, was originally built in the second half of the 12th century by Doge Sebastiano Ziani (d. 1178). It was a two-story building with shops on the ground floor and apartments above. The rents created revenue to fund work on St. Mark’s Basilica and provide charitable assistance to the poor. In June 1512, an apartment on the east wing caught fire, causing part of the façade to collapse.
The entire structure was rebuilt starting around 1514 and the design is attributed to Zuan Celestro and Pietro Bon (d. 1529). Work was carried out gradually in order to limit the loss of revenue. Tenants of the old building were only evicted when it was necessary to demolish and rebuilt their section of the building. After the death of Bon, Jacopo Sansovino (1486-1570) oversaw the project to completion in 1538.
The three-story building increased the number of shops and apartments the Procuratori de Supra could rent out. During the Cretan War against the Ottoman Empire, which took place from 1645 to 1669, the apartments were sold to raise revenue. They were repurchased by the procurators but sold for good in 1717.
Today, the Procuratie Vecchie hosts shops and cafés. Caffè Lavena opened in 1750 as the Regina d’Ungheri and was later renamed Orso Coronato. It was purchased by Carlo Lavena in 1860 and became a favorite spot of German composer Richard Wagner (1813-1883) and his Hungarian counterpart Franz Liszt (1811-1886). A few doors down is Caffè Quadri, which was established in 1775 and was favored by the Austrians during the 19th century.
Procuratie Nuove
The Procuratie Nuove (New Procuracies) is on the south side of Piazza San Marco. It housed the apartments of the procurators on the upper floors while shops on the ground floor were rented out to raise revenue. Construction started in 1583 after the demolition of several deteriorating structures on the site, including 13th century apartments and offices for the procurators as well as a hospice. 11 years into the project, the original architect Vincenzo Scamozzi (1548-1616) was dismissed from his post after years of criticism and his design was radically altered.
Scamozzi was succeeded by Francesco di Bernardin Smeraldi until 1611 followed by Mario della Carità until 1640. Baldassare Longhena (1598-1682) then oversaw the project until completion in 1660.
After the Republic of Venice fell to Napoleon on May 12, 1797, the Procuratie Nuove was converted to an imperial palace for Viceroy Eugène de Beauharnais (1781-1824). In 1866, the building passed to the Kingdom of Italy, which ceded it to the state in 1919.
The Procuratie Nuove has hosted the National Archeological Museum of Venice since 1920 and a section of the Correr Museum since 1922. It also hosts shops and two historic cafés. In fact, the first coffee shop in Venice opened there in 1683.
Caffè Florian opened on December 29, 1720, and is the oldest coffee house in continuous operation. It was favored by the Venetians during Austrian rule in the 19th century and was a meeting place for Venetian patriots organizing the 1848 Venetian Revolution, which resulted in independence and the short-lived Republic of San Marco. Famous patrons included Casanova, Goethe, Charles Dickens, and Lord Byron. Giuseppe Boduzzi followed by opening Caffè Aurora in 1723.
Napoleonic Wing of the Procuraties
The Procuratie used to have extensions on the west side of Piazza San Marco. They were separated only by the small Church of San Geminiano (Chiesa di San Geminiano), which was founded by Byzantine general Narses (478-573) between 554 and 564 and rebuilt between 1505 and 1557. All the structures were demolished in 1807 to extend the royal palace at the Procuratie Nuove by building the Napoleonic Wing of the Procuraties, also known as the Procuratie Nuovissime.
The original design was a two-story loggia created by Giovanni Antonio Antolini (1756-1841), but by 1810 his project was abandoned and the work in progress was demolished. The current Neoclassical building was then constructed, designed by Giuseppe Maria Soli (1747-1822) and completed in 1815. The Correr Museum opened there in 1922.
Torre dell’Orologio
Attached to the east side of the Procuratie Vecchie is the intriguing Torre dell’Orologio. This clock tower replaced the older Clock of St. Alipio, which stood at the northwest corner of St. Mark’s Basilica and was in disrepair by 1490. The location for the new clock was decided in 1495. The following year, buildings were demolished to clear the space and construction began. The design of the tower is attributed to Mauro Codussi (1440-1504) while Gian Paolo and Gian Carlo Ranieri were hired to build the clock.
The Torre dell’Orologio was inaugurated on February 1, 1499, and the wings on each side were completed by 1506. In 1751, Giorgio Massari began restoration of the wings, and two additional floors were added starting in 1755. The eight columns in front of the ground floor were also added in 1757. Further repairs were made in 1855, 1865, 1953, and 1998 to 2006. As for the two wings, they’ve been used as shops and apartments since the early 18th century.
Features of the Torre dell’Orologio
Atop the tower is the original bell, which was cast in 1497 by Simeone Campanato. It’s rung by two bronze figures known as “the Moors”. One of the figures is old and one is young, meant to represent the passage of time. They were cast in 1494 by Ambrosio Delle Anchor.
The next level down features the Lion of St. Mark in front of a blue background with gold stars. A statue of Doge Agostino Barbarigo (1419-1501), who was in office while the tower was being built, used to kneel in front of the lion. It was removed in 1797 after the city surrendered to Napoleon.
Underneath is a balcony with a copper statue of the Virgin and Child. To the left, a panel indicates the hour in Roman numerals. To the right, another panel indicates the minutes in five-minute intervals in Arabic numerals. Only twice a year, on Epiphany (January 6) and Ascension Day (the first Thursday 40 days after Easter), statues of the Three Magi led by a trumpeting angel leave from a doorway where the numbers reside. They parade around the statue of the Virgin and Child, bow to them, and enter through the other doorway.
Further down is the clock face. It’s surrounded by a marble circle indicating the 24 hours of the day in Roman numerals. Inside the circle are the signs of the Zodiac in gold, indicating the position of the sun within the zodiac. In the very center is the earth with a moon revolving around it to show the phases of the moon.
Finally, pedestrians can pass under the tower through a two-story archway that leads from Piazza San Marco to a street called the Merceria.
Visiting the Torre dell’Orologio
It’s possible to visit the Clock Tower on a guided tour booked in advance. Tours in English are available daily at scheduled times. Tickets can be purchased online or at the ticket office of the Correr Museum on Piazza San Marco.
Tickets are €14 for adults while children from age 6 to 14 are admitted for €11 (as of August 2023). Children under 6 cannot attend tours. Reduced admission of €11 is available for holders of the Museum Pass or the St. Mark’s Square Museum Ticket.
Piazzetta dei Leoncini
Just north of St. Mark’s Basilica is the Piazzetta dei Leoncini. It’s named after two marble lions donated by Doge Alvise III Mocenigo (1662-1732) in 1722. They were carved by sculptor Giovanni Bonazza (1654-1736). The Patriarchal Palace (Palazzo Patriarcale), the seat of the Patriarch of Venice, is on this small square.
Piazzetta di San Marco
You may be asking yourself why I haven’t mentioned the Doge’s Palace. That’s because it’s located next to St. Mark’s Basilica on the Piazzetta di San Marco. Technically, this small square is not part of Piazza San Marco but they’re generally associated together.
Library of St. Mark
The Library of St. Mark (Biblioteca Marciana) is on the west side of the Piazzetta. It’s one of the greatest libraries in the world, containing over one million printed books, manuscripts, and classical texts. It was established in 1468 after Byzantine scholar and titular Latin Patriarch of Constantinople, Cardinal Bessarion (1403-1472), donated his manuscript collection to the Republic of Venice under the condition that a public library be created. The library was originally housed in the Scrutinio Room of the Doge’s Palace.
The building was designed by Jacopo Sansovino (1486-1570) and is considered his masterpiece. It was constructed between 1537 and 1588 on a site previously occupied by a meat market, hostels, and bread shops. The hostels and bread shops were demolished in 1537 and the meat market in 1581. The ground floor is modeled on the Theatre of Marcellus and the Colosseum in Rome, while the upper level is inspired by ancient triumphal arches. The ground floor was occupied by shops rented out for revenue while the upper level housed the library and the offices of the procurators.
Today, the Library of St. Mark is the only official institution established by the republic that continues to function, although most of the collection has moved to the Zecca (Mint) next door. Admission for a guided tour of the Monumental Halls of the library is included on the St. Mark’s Square Museum Ticket (as of August 2024), or free for holders of the Museum Pass.
Columns of St. Mark and St. Theodore
At the southern end of the Piazzetta are the Columns of St. Mark and St. Theodore (Colonne di San Marco e San Todaro). According to tradition, these two large granite columns were erected between 1172 and 1177 by Nicolò Barattieri (d. 1181), but according to other sources in 1268. The bases and capitals are from the 13th century with an unknown origin, but most likely came from the Greek island of Chios via Constantinople (now Istanbul). Public executions took place between the columns and gambling was permitted between them as well.
At the top of western column is a statue of St. Theodore holding a spear and standing on a dragon. St. Theodore was the patron saint of Venice before St. Mark. The statue is a copy while the original, which dates back to at least 1329, is kept in the Doge’s Palace.
At the top of the eastern column is the iconic Lion of Venice, which is the symbol of the city. The sculpture was probably made around 300 BC and weighs 3,000 kilograms. It was most likely a monument to the Cilician god Sandon at Tarsus in what is now Turkey. The statue topped the pillar before 1293. After Napoleon conquered Venice in 1797, it was removed, taken to France, and placed at Place des Invalides in Paris. On October 2, 1815, while being removed for repatriation to Venice, the statue fell and broke into 20 pieces. It was repaired with a few alterations and returned to its rightful place on April 13, 1816.
Molo
The quay along the lagoon is called the Molo, which was once the spot for receiving officials and distinguished guests. This is where you’ll find some of the city’s most incredible scenery, including gondolas lined up at the quay and amazing views of both the Church of San Giorgio Maggiore and the Basilica of Santa Maria della Salute. Looking east along the Riva degli Schiavoni, you’ll see several of the beautiful buildings in the Castello district.
Museums at Piazza San Marco
There are two important museums at Piazza San Marco. You can visit both on a St. Mark’s Square Museum Ticket, which is €25 if purchased online at least 30 days in advance or €30 otherwise (as of August 2024). The ticket also gives access to the Doge’s Palace and the Monumental Halls of the Library of St. Mark. The Museum Pass is also valid for entry.
National Archaeological Museum of Venice
The Procuratie Nuove hosts the National Archeological Museum of Venice (Museo Archeologico Nazionale di Venezia). It was established in 1523 after the death of Cardinal Domenico Grimani (1461-1523), who bequeathed several ancient Greek and Roman sculptures from his private collection to the Republic of Venice. They were originally displayed at Palazzo Grimani on Campo Santa Maria Formosa in Castello starting in 1563. The collection expanded over the years and moved to the Procuratie Nuove in 1920.
Correr Museum
The Correr Museum (Museo Correr) is housed at the Napoleonic Wing and extends to the upper floors of the Procuratie Nuove. This civic museum, established in 1830 with a collection bequeathed by art collector Teodoro Correr (1750-1830), covers the art and history of Venice. It opened in its current space in 1922.
Royal Gardens of Venice
Finally, behind the Procuratie Nuove are the Royal Gardens of Venice (Giardini Reali di Venezia). The gardens were established in 1806 after Napoleon converted the Procuratie Nuove to an imperial palace. They were designed by architect Giovanni Antonio Antolini (1756-1841) and replaced the Granai di Terra Nova, a Gothic granary building built in 1340, which had to be demolished. The space also served as a granary and a prison.
In 1857, the path along the shoreline opened to the public but the gardens remained for the exclusive use of the court. An iron bridge was built in 1872 to connect the gardens to Piazza San Marco and it was replaced in 1893 with an iron drawbridge. The pergola was built at the end of the 19th century.
The Royal Gardens were given to the municipality and opened to the public on December 23, 1920. They fell into disrepair over the years and were closed in 2014 for recovery and restoration. They reopened in September 2020.
Celebrating New Year’s Eve at Piazza San Marco
On our honeymoon in Venice, we were lucky enough to spend an amazing New Year’s Eve at Piazza San Marco. After a late dinner, we started walking towards the famous square. As we arrived, we stopped to admire the Christmas tree at Piazzetta dei Leoncini.
When we got to Piazza San Marco at 11:20pm, it was jam packed with people and we could barely move. We made our way alongside St. Mark’s Basilica and the Doge’s Palace until we found a good spot underneath the two columns. Even from there, it was nothing but a sea of people, both looking back at the heart of Piazza San Marco and down along the Riva degli Schiavoni towards Castello.
We patiently waited in the freezing cold while revelers drank and greeted each other until finally, the bells of the Campanile started ringing to signal the countdown. At midnight, the fireworks lit up the sky from the canal in a spectacular display that lasted over 20 minutes.
There was no music or crazy show, just the sound of thousands of cheering people and the crackling of the fireworks. It was a little different than we expected but still an enjoyable experience in a great place to ring in the New Year.
