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Our time in Cannaregio was mostly limited to walking to and from the Venetian Ghetto. Cannaregio is one of the six districts (sestieri) of the UNESCO World Heritage city of Venice, Italy.
Introduction to Cannaregio
Cannaregio is the northernmost district of Venice. It’s the most populous and the second largest by land area, bordering the Grand Canal and the district of San Marco to the south, and Castello to the east.
Cannaregio developed in the 11th century. Although elegant palazzos line the Grand Canal, the area was mostly associated with the working class and manufacturing. From 1516 to 1797, Jews were restricted to living in the Venetian Ghetto.
The Cannaregio Canal was the main route into the city until the construction of the railway in 1861. It translates to Royal Canal and gives the district its name.
Today, Cannaregio continues to be heavily residential and a great place to escape from the crowds. Most people congregate along the Grand Canal leaving the rest of the district relatively peaceful.
Church of San Geremia
First, not too far from the railway station is the Church of San Geremia (Chiesa di San Geremia). It dates back to the 11th century but has been rebuilt several times. The current building was constructed in 1753 and designed by Carlo Corbellini. The church was damaged by Austrian shelling during their siege of Venice in 1849. The façade was built in 1861.
The relics of St. Lucy were moved to the church after the Church of Santa Lucia (Chiesa di Santa Lucia) was demolished in 1861 to make way for the railway station. In 1955, the Patriarch of Venice and future Pope John XXIII, Angelo Roncalli (1881-1963), had a silver mask put on the saint’s face to protect it from dust. In a bizarre occurrence, St. Lucy’s body was stolen on November 7, 1981. It was discovered by police in a nylon bag outside Venice a month later on her feast day, December 13.
Ponte delle Guglie
The Ponte delle Guglie (Bridge of Spires) is one of two bridges crossing over the Cannaregio Canal. The bridge was originally built out of wood in 1285 and replaced in 1580 with a stone and brick bridge. It was completely rebuilt in 1823 when the spires were added. It’s the only bridge in Venice with spires.
Rio Terà San Leonardo
Rio Terà San Leonardo, which turns into Rio Terà Farsetti, is on the east side of the bridge. Once one of the most important canals in Cannaregio, in 1818 it was filled in due to lack of funds for maintenance, much to the chagrin of local businesses and residents. The decision is still felt today, as delivery and garbage boats have to take long detours to complete their work.
Campo San Leonardo
Campo San Leonardo sits along Rio Terà San Leonardo. It’s named for the former Church of San Leonardo (Chiesa di San Leonardo), which was deconsecrated in 1807 and used for coal storage in the late 19th century. When we visited, there was a small outdoor market with stalls selling mostly fruits and vegetables.
Church of San Marcuola
Facing the Grand Canal is the Church of San Marcuola (Chiesa di San Marcuola), which is dedicated to Saints Hermagoras and Fortunatus. It was originally built in the 12th century but reconstructed between 1730 and 1736 by architects Antonio Gaspari (before 1660-after 1749) and Giorgio Massari (1687-1766). The façade was never completed. The church features paintings by Tintoretto (1518-1594) and Francesco Migliori (c. 1684-1734) as well as statues by Gaetano Susali (1724-1779). German composer Johann Adolph Hasse (1699-1783) is buried inside.
Island of San Michele
Finally, while walking to the Fondamente Nove ferry terminal to board a vaporetto to Burano, we spotted the Island of San Michele (Isola di San Michele). It contains a church and has served as the city’s cemetery since 1807.
The San Michele Cemetery (Cimitero di San Michele) is a mostly Catholic burial ground but there are separate sections for Protestant and Eastern Orthodox graves. Communal plots are leased for 12 years and recycled by moving the bones to an ossuary. Famous burials include Russian composer Igor Stravinsky (1882-1971) and Russian art critic Sergei Diaghilev (1872–1929).
