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The Frankfurt city center has a lot to offer visitors, from excellent museums to beautifully reconstructed historic buildings.
Introduction to the Frankfurt City Center
Frankfurt’s city center consists of a variety of neighborhoods on both sides of the Main River. You’ll find museums, cultural and historical attractions, and much more. Altstadt (Old Town), on the northern bank of the river, once contained around 1,250 half-timbered houses until it was largely destroyed by Allied bombings in 1944 during Word War II. Keep in mind almost everything you’ll see is a reconstruction from the 1950s onward.
Römerberg in Frankfurt
Römerberg is a great place to start exploring Frankfurt. It’s a colorful public square that has been the seat of city administration since the 15th century.
The site was acquired by the city in 1405 to replace the old town hall, which was demolished for the construction of Frankfurt Cathedral. Since then, it has hosted Christmas markets, fairs, 10 imperial coronations between 1562 and 1792, political rallies, and other events. It was also the site of an infamous Nazi book burning on May 10, 1933.
All of the buildings surrounding Römerberg have been reconstructed between 1952 and the 1980s. There are very few original elements remaining.
Fountain of Justice
The Fountain of Justice (Gerechtigkeitsbrunnen) has decorated the center of Römerberg since 1543. It was built in its current form in 1611, and today’s fountain is largely a detailed copy from 1887. During coronation ceremonies, it flowed with wine, first for the new Holy Roman Emperor and then for the people. The fountain mostly survived the Allied bombings in 1944.
The Fountain of Justice consists of an octagonal base made of red sandstone, 6.5 meters in diameter. The statue of Justice (Justitia), holding a sword and scales, stands atop a bronze base decorated with reliefs on all four sides. The reliefs represent the virtues of Justice, Temperance, Hope, and Charity. Above the heads of each virtue is a mask spitting water.
Römer
The Römer, on the west side of Römerberg, is the building complex that makes up the Frankfurt Town Hall. It began as two houses purchased on March 11, 1405, and has since grown through further acquisitions and expansions. What was once only 2 buildings grew to a network of 11.
The first two buildings were the Late Gothic Haus zum Römer (House of the Roman) and Haus zum Goldenen Schwan (House of the Golden Swan), both first mentioned in 1322, followed by Haus Frauenrode in 1424. Haus Viole was added in 1510, Haus Schwarzenfels in 1542, and Haus Wanebach and Haus Löwenstein in 1596. In 1843, the complex was further expanded with Haus Frauenstein and Salzhaus. The final addition was the Alt-Limpurg in 1878. Before the Allied bombings during World War II, many of the buildings were modified or demolished as the complex expanded over the years.
The Römer was rebuilt after World War II and inaugurated in 1955. The complex today has a total area of 10,000 square meters (110,000 square feet), extending west all the way to Buchgaße and north into Paulsplatz. It consists of nine houses enclosing six courtyards. There’s even a bridge over Bethmannstraße connecting the north wing.
Façade of the Römer
The main façade of the Römer faces Römerberg. It consists of three buildings: the original Haus zum Römer in the center, Alt-Limpurg to the left, and Haus Löwenstein to the right. They were redesigned in the Neo-Gothic style between 1896 and 1902, with the appearance regained after restorations in 1974 and 2005.
On Haus zum Römer, you’ll notice a clock at the top flanked by two city coats of arms. In the spaces between the windows are sculptures of four Holy Roman Emperors added in 1902. From left to right, they depict Frederick I Barbarossa (Friedrich I), Louis IV (Ludwig IV), Charles IV (Karl IV), and Maximillian II. A sculpture of the personification of Frankfurt is on the corner of Haus Löwenstein.
The balcony was added at the same time as the statues. It’s used as a stage for state visits and celebrations for sporting events. For example, the men’s and women’s national football teams are presented there after winning championships as are Eintracht Frankfurt and FSV Frankfurt football clubs.
Neues Rathaus
The Neues Rathaus (New Town Hall) extends on the west side of the complex. It was built between 1900 and 1908 and designed by architects Franz von Hoven (1842-1924) and Ludwig Neher (1850-1916). Several dozen houses as well as three buildings acquired in the 15th and 16th centuries – Frauenrode, Viole, and Schwarzenfels – had to be demolished for its construction.
The Bürgersaal building, which includes the Ratskeller on the ground floor, took the place of the Frauenrode. The Nordbau (north wing) and Südbau (south wing) are separated by Bethmannstraße but connected by the Seufzerbrücke (Bridge of Sighs). The bridge is a covered passage and takes its name from the Bridge of Sighs in Venice.
The Südbau was built with two towers completed in 1904. Their original appearances were lost to the Allied bombings in 1944. The tower on the northwest corner is the Langer Franz, which is 70 meters high and named for Mayor Franz Adickes (1846-1915). It’s a copy of a bridge tower on the Sachsenhausen side of the Alte Brücke built in 1345 and demolished in 1765. The shorter tower on the southwest corner is the Kleiner Cohn. It was a copy of the Salmenstein House at Judengasse, which stood between 1350 and 1810. Its name refers to an anti-Semitic operetta song composed around 1900 by Julius Einödshofer (1863-1930).
Kaisersaal
The Kaisersaal (Imperial Hall) is the most famous room at the Römer. It’s located on the second floor of Haus zum Römer. The entrance is via a courtyard on the south side of the complex. There’s no admission (as of July 2025), but the hall is sometimes closed for events.
In the center of the courtyard is the Hercules Fountain (Herkulesbrunnen). It has an octagonal base and a statue of Hercules made by Josef Kowarzik (1860-1911) in 1901. The walls of the courtyard are decorated with the heraldic shields representing districts of Frankfurt that were once independent communities.
At the end of the courtyard is an enclosed spiral staircase leading up to the second floor of Haus Löwenstein, where there’s a hall often used for wedding ceremonies.
From there, you’ll cross into Kaisersaal. It dates back to the 15th century and takes its name from a redecoration in 1711, in which the bronze portraits of Holy Roman Emperors were added. In 1838, restoration of the hall began and the portraits were changed to life-size color representations. The final painting was completed in 1853.
The paintings in Kaisersaal begin with Charlemagne and end with Francis II (Franz II), excluding the four emperors of the Great Interregnum (Conrad IV, William II of Holland, Richard of Cornwall, and Alfonso X of Castile). There are 52 in all. Each one is roughly 280 centimeters tall and 80 centimeters wide.
Samstagsberg
The Samstagsberg is a reconstruction of seven historic half-timbered houses on the east side of Römerberg. They were all destroyed during the Allied bombings in 1944 and rebuilt starting in 1981.
From left to right is the Großer und Kleiner Engel (Great and Little Angel), built in 1562; Goldener Greif (Golden Griffin), built in 1562; Wilder Mann (Wild Man), built in the 16th century; Dachsberg, first mentioned in 1561; Großer Laubenberg, built before 1500; Kleiner Laubenberg, first mentioned in 1381; and Schwarzer Stern (Black Star), built in 1610 and detached from the other buildings.
Old St. Nicholas Church
Old St. Nicholas Church (Alte Nikolaikirche) is on the south side of Römerberg. It was originally built as a Catholic chapel around 1150 and renovated to a Gothic hall church in 1290. The roof gallery was added between 1459 and 1467. In 1530, during the Reformation, the church was closed. The original Catholic altar was demolished in 1543. The building was then leased and used as a municipal archive until 1719.
The church was restored for the Protestant community and reopened to worship in 1721. By 1805, it was in disrepair and slated for demolition, but instead was renovated starting in 1838. It only suffered minor damage during the Allied bombings in 1944.
Old St. Nicholas Church features 51 bells in the 48-meter-high tower. The four stained glass windows in the nave were created by Lina von Schauroth (1874-1970) in 1922. They were originally made for a private chapel, put into storage for safekeeping during World War II, and installed at Old St. Nicholas in 1951.
On the south wall are two colored tombstones from the Romanesque period. They’re attributed to Madern Gerthener (1360/70-1430) and dedicated to Siegfried zum Paradies (d. 1386) and his wife Katharina von Wedel (d. 1378). They were transferred to Old St. Nicholas in 1840 when their original location, the Church of the Holy Spirit (Heiliggeistkirche), was demolished. A replica stone sculpture of the Man of Sorrows from 1370 is next to the altar. The original is in the Frankfurt Historical Museum. You’ll also find an Oberlinger organ built in 1992.
Paulsplatz in Frankfurt
Paulsplatz is a square immediately north of Römerberg. It’s a pedestrian zone with plane trees and outdoor cafés on the eastern side. During the winter, it’s one of the venues for the Frankfurt Christmas Market.
Paulsplatz was the site of a Franciscan monastery from 1270 until the 18th century. The Franciscans left Frankfurt in 1529 and the complex was turned over to the city council and in 1542 became a school. The Franciscan Church (Barfüßerkirche) closed in 1782 and was demolished in 1786. The school and monastery buildings followed in 1838.
Unity Monument
The Unity Monument (Einheitsdenkmal) stands on the south side of the square. It was created by architect Fritz Hessemer (1868-1929) and sculptor Hugo Kaufmann (1868-1919), who won a contest for its design in 1898. The monument, which was inaugurated on October 18, 1903, consists of a three-sided obelisk with relief panels on a four-stage base. It’s crowned by a bronze statue. There were three bronze figures at the base but they were melted down to make weapons in 1940.
St. Paul’s Church
The focal point of Paulsplatz is St. Paul’s Church (Paulskirche), which replaced the medieval Franciscan Church. It was built between 1789 and 1833 and served as the city’s main Protestant-Lutheran church until 1944. Delegates of the Frankfurt National Assembly (Frankfurter Nationalversammlung), the first parliament in Germany, met there from 1848 to 1849. It’s considered an important symbol of the country’s democratic movement.
The circular building was designed in the Neoclassical style by architect Johann Andreas Liebhardt (1713-1788). Construction was halted during the Napoleonic Wars and resumed again in 1829 under Johann Friedrich Christian Hess (1785-1845).
The church was destroyed by the Allied bombing in March 1944. Because of its important symbolism for freedom, it was the first structure rebuilt in the city. The congregation, however, shifted to Old St. Nicholas Church on Römerberg. The building is now used for events. John F. Kennedy gave a major speech there in 1963.
Mainkai in Frankfurt
A few steps south of Römerberg is the Mainkai (Main Quay). This street along the north bank of the Main River was built in 1826. It runs for 720 meters between Alte Brücke in the east and ends near Untermainbrücke in the west. There are a few points of interest along the street as well as a path along the river.
Frankfurt Historical Museum
First is the Frankfurt Historical Museum (Historisches Museum Frankfurt), which was founded in 1878. It displays cultural and historical objects related to the history of Frankfurt and Germany. The museum moved into the Saalhof in 1955 and a Brutalist extension opened in 1972. The extension was demolished in 2011 and rebuilt starting in 2012. It opened on October 7, 2017.
The museum presents exhibitions on the history of Frankfurt from the Middle Ages through 2001. It’s open daily except Mondays. Admission prices below are current as of July 2025:
- Admission to the permanent and temporary exhibitions is €10 for adults, €5 for students over 18 and holders of the Frankfurt Card, and free for kids under 18.
- Admission to the permanent exhibition only is €8 for adults, €4 for students over 18 and holders of the Frankfurt Card, and free for kids under 18.
- Admission to the Snow Globe is €3 for adults, €1.50 for students over 18 and holders of the Frankfurt Card, and free for kids under 18.
Saalhof
The Saalhof is the oldest preserved building in Frankfurt. It dates back to the 12th century and was originally built as a palace for emperors of the Hohenstaufen dynasty.
In the 14th century, the Saalhof was transformed into a customs house and attached to the Fahrtor, a city gate that opened to Römerberg. The Fahrtor was built between 1456 and 1460 and demolished in 1840. The bay window from the Fahrtor was added to the west façade of the Saalhof. The building was restored in the 19th century.
One of the building’s most notable features is the Rententurm (Pension Tower). It was added to the building between 1454 and 1456 by Eberhard Friedberger (d. 1458). The tower helped protect the Fahrtor and the basement briefly served as a prison. It’s one of three surviving gate towers from the Gothic city walls.
Eiserner Steg
The Eiserner Steg (Iron Footridge) crosses the Main River near the museum. It was first built in 1868 and replaced in 1912. It was blown up in the final days of World War II but was rebuilt in 1946.
The bridge is 173.59 meters long with the main span measuring 79.69 meters. It’s 5.44 meters wide and has staircases on each end. Locals and tourists attach their “love locks” to the bridge.
A phrase in Greek, created by artist Hagen Bonifer in 1999, quotes Homer’s Odyssey. It decorates the steel structure on the northern pillar and reads:
ΠΛΕΩΝ ΕΠΙ ΟΙΝΟΠΑ ΠΟΝΤΟΝ ΕΠ ΑΛΛΟΘΡΟΟΥΣ ΑΝΘΡΩΠΟΥΣ
Sailing on wine-dark sea to people of another language
Touristic Cruises on the Main River
On either side of the bridge, you can catch a touristic cruise on the Main River. They last about an hour and run several times a day.
The Panorama Tour by KD costs €16 for adults, €12.80 for seniors, and €9 for kids (as of July 2025). It leaves from the west side of the bridge.
Primus-Linie haș two different 50-minute sightseeing cruises going upriver or downriver. They can be combined into a full 100-minute cruise. Their boats leave from the east side of the bridge. Prices are current as of July 2025:
- The 50-minute cruises are €15 for adults, €9.50 for kids age 6-14, and free for kids under 6. Family tickets (2 adults and up to 3 kids age 6-14) are available for €37.
- The 100-minute cruises are €19 for adults, €9.50 for kids age 6-14, and free for kids under 6. Family tickets (2 adults and up to 3 kids age 6-14) are available for €44.
St. Leonhard Church
A few steps west of the bridge is the St. Leonhard Church (Leonhardskirche). It’s the oldest surviving church in Frankfurt, dating back to 1219. It’s also only one of nine churches to remain undamaged during World War II.
St. Leonhard Church was built as a Romanesque basilica and was remodeled in the Gothic style around 1425. It was expanded between 1508 and 1520 to four aisles and a central nave, with a chapel added in 1515. In 1792, French troops occupied the building, sold most of its furnishings, and used it as storage.
In 1808, the church was restored, reopening to worship on January 15, 1809. Today, it serves the city’s English-speaking Catholic community.
Alte Brücke
Finally, on the east side of Mainkai is Alte Brücke (Old Bridge). It’s the oldest bridge on the Main, first mentioned in 1222, and was the only stone bridge until 1886. Alte Brücke has been destroyed and rebuilt at least 18 times. The latest reconstruction in 1965 replaced the central span with a steel truss.
Alte Brücke is 237.36 meters (778.7 feet) long and 19.5 meters (64 feet) wide. The longest span is 70 meters (230 feet). It was once flanked by towers that were demolished in 1769 and 1801. The bridge was also used for execution by drowning between 1366 and 1613.
Dom-Römer Quarter in Frankfurt
The Dom-Römer Quarter (Dom-Römer-Viertel), also known as the New Frankfurt Old Town (Neue Frankfurter Altstadt), is east of Römerberg and west of Domplatz. It was built between 2012 and 2018 in an effort to rebuild the old city center with pre-World War II architecture. 7,000 square meters (75,000 square feet) of property were redeveloped, which included the demolition of the Technical City Hall (Technisches Rathaus), a Brutalist building constructed in 1974.
Hühnermarkt
One of the highlights of the Dom-Römer Quarter is Hühnermarkt, which translates to Chicken Market. It was originally a medieval market square replaced by the Technical City Hall.
The square is surrounded by a faithful reconstruction of historic houses, including Zur Flechte, Esslinger, Rotes Haus, and Goldene Schere. They’re now occupied by cafés, restaurants, and boutique shops.
Stoltze Fountain
In the center is the Stoltze Fountain (Stoltze-Brunnen), a Neo-Renaissance monument honoring poet and journalist Friedrich Stoltze (1816-1891). It was originally created between 1892 and 1895 by sculptor Fritz Klimsch (1870-1960) and inaugurated on November 2, 1895. It’s 3.2 meters tall with a triangular water basin and topped by a bust of Stoltze. The base is decorated with reliefs of Stoltze’s literary works.
The fountain survived the Allied bombing in 1944 and was moved to Friedrich‑Stoltze‑Platz behind St. Catherine’s Church. It returned to its original location at Hühnermarkt on September 29, 2017.
House of the Golden Scales
Facing the Frankfurt Cathedral is the House of the Golden Scales (Haus zur Goldenen Waage). One of the most famous sights in the city, it was mentioned as early as 1323 as Haus Kullmann. In 1405, it was combined with the house behind it, Alte Hölle (Old Hell). Andreas Gaßmann purchased the property in 1588, and Maria Margarethe Gaßmann sold it to Abraham van Hamel (d. 1623) in 1605.
In 1618, Van Hamel had the original house torn down and rebuilt with a Renaissance façade, with the project completed in 1619. His widow sold the house in 1655 and it changed hands several times over the next couple centuries until it was purchased by the city in 1898. It was given to the Frankfurt Historical Museum in 1913.
The House of the Golden Scales was completely destroyed by Allied bombings on March 22, 1944, and its remaining foundations were demolished in 1950. After thorough research, the house was reconstructed as part of the Dom-Römer Project starting in 2014. It was completed in September 2019 and was the most complex individual reconstruction of Dom-Römer.
Schirn Kunsthalle
Schirn Kunsthalle, which was built between 1983 and 1986, is on the south side of the Dom-Römer Quarter. It opened on February 28, 1986, and hosts temporary exhibitions of both modern and contemporary art. The exhibition building runs east-west and is 140 meters long, 10 meters wide, and 6 stories high. It has more than 2,000 square meters (22,000 square feet) of exhibition space. Admission is €6 for adults, €4 for students and holders of the Frankfurt Card, and free for kids under 8 (as of July 2025). It’s open Tuesday through Sunday.
Domplatz in Frankfurt
Domplatz is a square dominated by the Frankfurt Cathedral. There are also a couple interesting buildings around it.
Frankfurt Cathedral
The Frankfurt Cathedral (Kaiserdom), which is covered in another post, takes up the entire center of the square. It’s the largest religious building in the city and was a coronation site of Holy Roman Emperors. It’s the fourth church on the site, with the first dating back to the 7th century.
Leinwandhaus
The Leinwandhaus (Canvas House), which was built around 1400, is on the south side of Domplatz. It served in the cloth trade and as a court, prison, hospital, slaughterhouse, hostel for city clerks and the mentally ill, a city museum, and an art gallery. It was destroyed during Allied bombings in 1944 and rebuilt in 1984.
Today, the Leinwandhaus hosts the Museum of Comic Art (Caricatura Museum). Frankfurt has been the German capital of satire since the founding of magazines Pardon in 1962 and Titanic in 1972. The museum was founded at the end of the 1990s and was a department of the Frankfurt Historical Museum from 2000 to 2008. It opened as a separate museum on April 1, 2019. Admission is €8 for adults, €4 for students over 18, and free for kids under 18 (as of July 2025).
Frankfurt Museum of Modern Art
The Museum of Modern Art (Museum für Moderne Kunst), or MMK for short, is a block north of the Frankfurt Cathedral. It was founded in 1981 and opened to the public on June 6, 1991. The museum is open daily except Mondays. It’s currently closed for renovation (as of July 2025).
The building was designed by architect Hans Hollein (1934-2014) of Vienna. It has 3,500 square meters (38,000 square feet) of exhibition space and a collection of over 5,000 pieces from 1904 to the present. The core of the collection was a donation from the heirs of art collector Karl Ströher (1890-1977).
Kleinmarkthalle
Continuing north is one of my favorite attractions in Frankfurt, Kleinmarkthalle. It’s a market hall with over 60 merchants in 156 market stalls offering specialties from all over the world. It’s open daily except Sundays.
The original market was built between 1877 and 1879. It had 3 halls and was 117 meters long, 34 meters wide, and 22 meters high. It covered over 4,000 square meters of floor space with 354 stalls inside. Another 114 stalls surrounded the building. The market was destroyed by Allied bombings in October 1943 and March 1944.
Kleinmarkthalle was reconstructed in 1954 about 200 meters southwest of the former site. It was designed by architects Günther Gottwald (1907-1971) and Gerhard Weber (1909-1986) and construction took 11 months.
In 1996, proposals to demolish the market and replace it with a shopping center was met with protests. The plan was eventually scrapped.
Kleinmarkthalle is 100 meters long and 24 meters wide, with over 1,500 square meters of floor space. The main entrance is on the east side, with another on the west side. They open to the main floor and there’s also a mezzanine level with more stalls. The fish market, where photos are forbidden, is in the basement.
Vendors sell both food products and other goods, such as flowers and gardening supplies. Regional and international foods are available. You’ll also find snack bars and a restaurant.
Liebfrauenberg in Frankfurt
Around the corner is Liebfrauenberg. It’s considered one of the most beautiful squares in Frankfurt and was once the second largest in the city after Römerberg. It dates back to the early 14th century.
During the Middle Ages, Liebfrauenberg was a market for glassware, pots, and other household goods. It was first referred to as Rossebühel and was later renamed for the church. Most of the square was destroyed by Allied bombings in 1944. During the summer, it hosts a flower market, while in the winter it’s one of the locations of the Frankfurt Christmas Market.
Fountain on Liebfrauenberg
In the center of Liebfrauenberg is a fountain with an oval basin and an obelisk with baroque ornaments. On the two sides of the base are bronze reliefs by Johann Georg and Johannes Schneidewind. They depict the river gods Moenus and Rhenus (the Main and Rhine Rivers) pouring water from jugs into shell basins resting on the backs of dolphins. The original figures are located in the park of the Liebieghaus. The Frankfurt coat of arms adorns the front of the obelisk, which is topped by a gilded sun.
Church of Our Lady
The Church of Our Lady (Liebfrauenkirche) is a Catholic church on the north side of the square. It began as a small family chapel built in 1325 and in 1344 was expanded to a Gothic hall church with a central nave and two aisles. The south façade was modified in 1415, and an adjacent tower was converted into a bell tower in 1453. Jörg Östereicher rebuilt the choir and the sacristy between 1506 and 1509.
Part of the church was redesigned in the Baroque style between 1763 and 1771, including the heightening of the bell tower. Five new altars were installed during the same period. The city became the owner of the church in 1803, and a Walcker organ was installed in 1863.
In 1917, the church was granted to the Capuchins, who built a convent on the north side between 1924 and 1925. The entire complex was destroyed during Allied bombings in 1944. The church was rebuilt in a simplified style between 1948 and 1956. A new organ was built by Karl Göckel in 2008.
The parish was officially dissolved on December 31, 2013, but the Capuchins still administer the church and operate the monastery. On the north side you’ll find the Grotto of Our Lady of Lourdes (Lourdesgrotto), which was built around 1920. It contains a statue of Our Lady of Lourdes dated 1886.
Hauptwache in Frankfurt
Hauptwaches is a large square at the center of Frankfurt. It was originally called Paradeplatz until 1864 followed by Schillerplatz until the early 20th century. The square is home to Hauptwache station, which is one of the most important transportation hubs in the city.
The square was the scene of the infamous Hauptwache Incident on April 7, 1920. French troops opened fire on a crowd protesting against the French occupation of Frankfurt, killing 9 and wounding 26.
Hauptwache Building
The Hauptwache Building, which gives the square its names, occupies the center. It was built between 1729 and 1730 by architect Johann Jakob Samhammer (1685-1745) as the headquarters of the Stadtwehr militia, which was charged with defending the city. It also contained a prison. The building lost its role in 1866 when Prussia annexed the city and took over military duties. After this, the prison remained and it was converted into a police station. It has been a café since 1904. The roof had to be replaced after it burned during World War II.
St. Catherine’s Church
St. Catherine’s Church (Katharinenkirche) stands on the southeast corner of the Hauptwache. It’s the largest Protestant church in the city and was built between 1678 and 1681. It was designed by Melchior Heßler in the Baroque style. Johann Wolfgang von Goethe (1749–1832) was baptized there in 1749.
The church is 54 meters (177 feet) high and has a relatively modest exterior with a more lavish interior. Before it was destroyed on March 22, 1944, it featured a double gallery on the east, west, and north sides, decorated with a cycle of paintings of Biblical scenes. There were 41 on the lower level and 42 on the upper level.
The church was rebuilt in a simpler style between May 1950 and October 1954. The architects were Theo Kellner (1899-1969) and Wilhelm Massing (1904-1981). The exterior remained similar to the previous appearance and the Gothic wooden vaulted ceiling was also rebuilt. Only the western gallery was reconstructed as a place to hold the organ, which was built by Rieger Orgelbau and completed in 1990. 17 stained windows by Charles Crodel (1894-1973) were installed and the paintings that survived the bombings were placed on the western gallery. The entrance was also changed from the west to the north.
The Zeil in Frankfurt
Hauptwache sits at the western end of the Zeil, which is one of the premier shopping streets in Germany. The section connecting Hauptwache and Konstablerwache has been pedestrianized since the 1970s and runs for about 500 meters.
The Zeil ran parallel to the city wall built at the end of the 12th century. It was the widest street in Frankfurt and became famous for its Baroque and Neoclassical inns and palaces built starting in the middle of the 16th century.
In the third quarter of the 19th century, the focus shifted to commerce. Many of the historic inns and palaces were demolished and replaced with commercial buildings and department stores. By 1900, only 20 of the original buildings were still standing. Most of the buildings on the Zeil were leveled during the Allied bombings in 1944, leading to a post-war reconstruction of the entire street.
David and Goliath
At the west end of the Zeil at Hauptwache is the sculpture David and Goliath by Richard Heß (1937-2017). It was installed in 1983. The sculpture depicts the victorious David sitting on Goliath’s head.
Brockhaus Fountain
At roughly the midpoint between Hauptwache and Konstablerwache you’ll find the Brockhaus Fountain (Brockhaus-Brunner). It was made in 1984 by sculptor Lutz Brockhaus (1945-2016) and his colleagues, Manuela Meyer and Christoph Kappeser (1960-2020), who chiseled it from a single 38-ton block of white Carrara marble brought in from Italy. The team worked it for several months, creating an eclectic mix of figures.
Konstablerwache in Frankfurt
The east end of the Zeil is at Konstablerwache, which translates to constable watch house. It takes its name from an armory established nearby in 1544 that was converted into a police station in 1822. The building was demolished in 1886 and replaced by commercial buildings.
The square was initially laid out in 1881 and was much smaller than today’s square. It was enlarged after the decision was made not to reconstruct several buildings destroyed during the Allied bombings in 1944. Today, it’s an important transportation hub with Konstablerwache Station underneath. It’s also considered one of the ugliest squares in Frankfurt. Konstablerwache was also near the north end of the Judengasse, which is covered in another post.
Frankfurt Stock Exchange
The Frankfurt Stock Exchange (Börse Frankfurt) is few steps north of Hauptwache. It’s the 3rd oldest and 12th largest stock exchange in the world. Although its origins go back to 11th century trade fairs, it was officially founded in 1585 to set fixed currency exchange rates.
The exchange moved into its current building at Börsenplatz in 1879. It was designed in the Neo-Renaissance style by Heinrich Burnitz (1827-1880) and Oskar Sommer (1840-1894). The Visitors Center is open to the public free of charge Monday through Friday (as of July 2025). It includes an interactive exhibition and view of the trading floor. There are also lectures and tours available. Online advance registration for your preferred time slot is required.
Bull & Bear
Out front, you’ll find the Bull & Bear (Bulle & Bär) sculptures, created by Reinhard Dachlauer (1922-1995). They were commissioned by the Frankfurt Stock Exchange in 1985 to honor its 400th anniversary. The sculptures were installed in 1988.
Schillermarkt
Schillerstraße, running north from Hauptwache, hosts the Schillermarkt every Friday. This public market features 40 stalls selling fruits, vegetables, cheese, meat, fish, and more. Many items are sold directly by the producers, making it a great place to sample regional specialties. It runs from 9am to 6:30pm.
Eschenheimer Turm
At the north end of Schillerstraße is Eschenheimer Turm, which was a gate on the city walls. It was built between 1426 and 1428 by architect Madern Gerthener (1360/70-1430). Only two other towers survive today.
Eschenheimer Turm is 47 meters high and has 8 levels. At the top is an iron weather vane. It now stands in the center of a busy intersection. The ground floor hosts a restaurant. Public access to the top is limited to special events and private tours.
Freßgass in Frankfurt
Freßgass is a pedestrianized street connecting Opernplatz and Börsenstraße. The street is considered the city’s culinary zone due to its high concentration of restaurants, cafés, delis, and bakeries. The wide street is paved with bricks and lined with plane trees. It runs for 280 meters.
One interesting fact is that Wolfgang Amadeus Mozart (1756-1791) lived at Kalbächer Gasse 10 from late September to mid-October 1790. He was in Frankfurt for the coronation of Emperor Leopold II. The street was populated by the bourgeois class up until World War II. Rents are still among the highest in Frankfurt.
Opernplatz in Frankfurt
Opernplatz, at the west end of Freßgass, is named for the opera house in the center. It was once the site of a city gate that was demolished in 1875 to make way for the square and opera house. The east side of the square is lined with six-story historicist buildings, including the Sofitel Frankfurt Opera.
Lucae Fountain
The Lucae Fountain (Lucae-Brunnen) sits in front of the opera house. It was designed in 1872 by the architect Richard Lucae (1829-1877) but wasn’t executed until 1983 by sculptor Edwin Hüller (1919-2009). It was made from 120 tons of yellow granite and inaugurated on June 14, 1983. The basin is 17 meters in diameter, the bowl measures 5 meters in diameter, and the total height is 3.2 meters.
Alte Oper
Alte Oper is the centerpiece of the square. It was built between 1873 and 1880 on a design by Richard Lucae. It opened with Mozart’s Don Giovanni on October 20, 1880, with Kaiser Wilhelm I in attendance.
Alte Oper was heavily damaged by Allied bombings in 1944, but most of the façade and outer walls survived. It was slated for demolition in the 1960s but was saved and rebuilt starting in 1976. It reopened on August 28, 1981, with Gustav Mahler’s Symphony No. 8.
The Great Hall (Großer Saal) of the opera house has a capacity of 2,500, while the smaller Mozart Hall (Mozart-Saal) can seat 700. The building measures 100.31 meters long and 47.46 meters wide. It has approximately 4,000 square meters of floor space.
90-minute guided tours are offered in German and English on select dates. They cost €10 per person with additional online booking fees (as of July 2025). Check the official calendar for more information and tour dates. Tours are not recommended for kids under age 10.
Sculptures on Alte Oper
The building is decorated with sculptures, including a pegasus taking flight. The original was created by Ludwig Brunow (1843-1913) but lost to the bombings. It was redesigned in 1981 by Georg Hüter. Underneath are figures by Gustav Kaupert (1819-1897) depicting the Three Graces Aglaia, Euphrosyne, and Thalia wrapped around a wreath of blooming roses. The figures on the left side represent comedy while the figures on the right represent tragedy.
Atop the lower pediment is a quadriga driven by four panthers. It was created by Franz Krüger (1849-1912) and originally decorated another theatre built in 1902. In the pediment are two men, representing the Main and Rhine rivers, leaning against the Frankfurt coat of arms. Underneath is an inscription of a modified quote by Johann Wolfgang von Goethe (1749-1832) from the poem Epilogue to Schiller’s Bell (Epilog zu Schillers Glocke):
DEM WAHREN SCHOENEN GUTEN (To the True, the Beautiful, the Good)
24 medallions above the arches depict famous playwrights and composers. They were sculpted by Gustav Herold (1839-1927), Max Wiese (1846-1925), and Ludwig Tendlau. 21 of the 24 are original while 3 were reconstructed using photographs. Finally, statues of Mozart and Goethe stand on the outer arcade. On the left is Mozart, sculpted by Friedrich Schierholz (1840-1894), while on the right is Goethe, by Gustav Herold.
Taunusanlage
South of Opernplatz is Taunusanlage. It’s a pleasant green space that was once the site of the city walls. It was transformed into a park in the 19th century.
Marshall Fountain
In the Bergmann Park (Bergmann-Park) section, next to Opernplatz, you’ll find the Marshall Fountain (Marshall-Brunen) in the center. It’s dedicated to George C. Marshall, the US Secretary of State who drafted the Marshall Plan in 1948, providing crucial economic assistance to war-torn nations. The fountain was sculpted by Toni Stadler (1888-1982) in 1963. The three bronze figures depict water nymphs.
Alt-Sachsenhausen in Frankfurt
On the south bank of the Main River is the lively Alt-Sachsenhausen neighborhood. It’s part of the Sachsenhausen district and was one of the very few areas not affected by the Allied bombings in 1944.
Alt-Sachsenhausen is famous for its apfelwein (cider) houses as well as bars and clubs. I visited on a quiet weeknight with my friend Andrew, who has lived in Frankfurt for several years. We walked around and grabbed dinner and apfelwein.
Three Kings Church
On the banks of the Main is the Three Kings Church (Dreikönigskirche). It’s a Lutheran church built between 1875 and 1890. It was designed by Franz Josef Denzinger (1821-1894) in the Neo-Gothic style. The church was spared by the Allied bombings in 1944, and stained glass windows by Charles Crodel (1894-1973) were installed in 1956.
The church is the oldest and largest Protestant parish in Frankfurt. It was originally a simple chapel built in 1340. In 1525, it became the first church with solely Protestant pastors. The church had deteriorated by the 19th century and the decision was made to replace it. The final service took place in April 1872 and it was demolished in 1875.
