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Tarpon Springs is a place where people can “visit Greece without leaving Florida“.
Introduction to Tarpon Springs
Tarpon Springs was settled by farmers and fishermen around 1876 and incorporated as a city on February 12, 1887. Legend has it the town was named for an expression coined by Ormond Boyer, a settler from South Carolina, who would exclaim “See the tarpon spring!” while standing on the shore of the bayou to watch fish leaping out of the water.
The waters of the Gulf coast are one of the only places in the world where natural sponges suitable for commercial use are found. In 1890, Philadelphia banker John K. Cheyney (1858-1939) launched his first sponge boat, ushering in the beginning of the sponge industry in Tarpon Springs by originally retrieving sponges with hooks.
Greek immigrant John Cocoris (1877-1944) came to Tarpon Springs to work with Cheyney in 1896. In 1905, he revolutionized the industry by introducing diving, which was already common practice in Greece. Soon after, several Greek immigrants began arriving to dive for sponges. By the 1930s, the industry generated millions of dollars a year. Although it has declined significantly, it’s still an important focus for the local Greek community.
I make a point to visit Tarpon Springs every time I’m in Clearwater to see family. It’s a great place to eat Greek food. However, my only complaint is that it’s over-commercialized and doesn’t have the same authentic feel it once had.
Tarpon Springs Sponge Docks
The historic Sponge Docks is the place to be in Tarpon Springs. All the attractions run along Dodecanese Boulevard and Athens Street. There are numerous restaurants and shops selling sponges, homemade soaps, and other Greek and locally-themed souvenirs.
Along the Anclote River, you can see several sponge diving boats as well as a statue of a sponge diver. It’s possible to take a sponge diving exhibition cruise with a diver, but my cousins told me it’s a waste of time and money.
Sponge Exchange
Across the street from the river is the Sponge Exchange, where spongers would take their sponges to sell. It’s been refurbished as a shopping and entertainment center with over 30 specialty shops and restaurants. Next to the entrance is a tile mosaic of a sponge diver.
Tarpon Springs Aquarium
At the west end of Dodecanese Boulevard is the Tarpon Springs Aquarium. Admission is US$28.99 for visitors age 13-64, US$24.99 for seniors 65+, US$18.99 for kids age 3-12, and free for kids under 2 (as of January 2024). It’s open daily from 10am to 5pm. The aquarium, which we didn’t visit, features sharks, alligators, snakes, and eels among other creatures. There’s also a petting tank and shows throughout the day.
Sponge Diver Supply
Sponge Diver Supply is a souvenir shop on Dodecanese Boulevard. When we passed by, we noticed a couple clever artistic elements outside the building.
Downtown Tarpon Springs
When most tourists visit Tarpon Springs they skip downtown and head straight for the Sponge Docks. If you have some time, it’s worth stopping for a quick stroll. The heart of downtown runs along Tarpon Avenue between Pinellas and Safford Avenues. Along the street you’ll find some antique shops, restaurants, and local businesses. There are also two museums on Tarpon Avenue and a few more in town.
Replay Museum
The Replay Museum, on Tarpon Avenue, has a large collection of pinball machines and antique video games. It’s more of an arcade than anything, with visitors allowed to play unlimited games for an entire day. Adult admission is US$14 (as of February 2024) with re-entry allowed throughout the day. The museum is open Wednesday to Sunday starting at 11am.
Historic Train Depot Museum
The other museum on Tarpon Avenue is the Historic Train Depot Museum, which is run by the Tarpon Springs Area Historical Society. It gives visitors an overview of the city’s history and doubles as a welcome center. The building is open from 11am to 3pm every Wednesday to Saturday. Admission is free but donations are welcome (as of February 2024).
Tarpon Springs Cultural Center
The Tarpon Springs Cultural Center is a block south of Tarpon Avenue. The building served as the first city hall and was built in 1915. It’s open during theatre productions, exhibitions, and special events. Check the official website for the calendar of events.
St. Nicholas Greek Orthodox Cathedral
While the Sponge Docks might be the big draw to see “Greece in Florida”, the anchor of Tarpon’s Greek community is St. Nicholas Greek Orthodox Cathedral. It’s located on Pinellas Avenue just north of Tarpon Avenue.
The building, completed in 1943, is the congregation’s second church, with the first one constructed in 1907. It was elevated to a cathedral in January 1979.
The cathedral was modeled after Hagia Sophia in Constantinople (now Istanbul). It has a beautifully decorated interior. The altar, iconostasis, and bishop’s throne were made of white Pentelic marble imported from Greece. There are also several stained glass windows and icons as well as three large glass chandeliers from Czechoslovakia.
Finally, in the courtyard you’ll find a statue of a boy holding a cross, symbolizing the congregation’s annual cross dive. It’s a Greek Orthodox tradition that takes place on Epiphany every year. Tarpon Springs holds one of the world’s largest and most famous Epiphany celebrations.
Tarpon Springs Heritage Museum
The Tarpon Springs Heritage Museum was closed during our visit on a Saturday. It’s located a few blocks west of downtown. Admission is US$5 (as of February 2024) and it’s open Monday through Friday from 10am to 4pm.
Sunset Beach
If you’re looking for beaches, there are two decent ones in Tarpon Springs. First, Sunset Beach is a small park with crystal clear water. It’s popular with locals and entrance is free. No pets or alcohol are allowed.
Fred Howard Park
The other more beautiful beach is at Fred Howard Park. A causeway connects the mainland to a small island where the beach is located. Parking is US$5 for the entire day (as of February 2024).
Where to Eat in Tarpon Springs
Obviously, with the large Greek community, Tarpon Springs is a hotspot for Greek restaurants.
Mykonos
For food, my family’s favorite restaurant is Mykonos. In our opinion, they have the best Greek food in Tarpon Springs. It sits in a whitewashed building along Dodecanese Boulevard.
The best thing to do is order a bunch of plates to share. Our favorites are always the Greek salad, broiled octopus, fried calamari, Greek fries, and saganaki.
You can’t go wrong with any of the fish or other traditional Greek dishes, such as moussaka or pastitsio. The soutzoukakia smyrneika (Smyrna meatballs) are also good. Finally, for dessert, we usually order a galaktoboureko.
Dimitri’s on the Water
Dimitri’s on the Water is our second favorite restaurant. I haven’t been in quite a while, but I can vouch for it.
Hellas Restaurant
We ate lunch at Hellas Restaurant. You can’t miss the gaudy neon exterior with the Greek warrior above the entrance. We had octopus and a Greek salad but weren’t impressed at all by the quality or the service. We also ordered frappes from the adjoining bakery and they were terrible. This restaurant, which was completely packed with tourists, is a classic tourist trap. Avoid it.
