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Mesa Verde National Park is dedicated to the protection of over 4,000 Ancestral Puebloan archaeological sites, including 600 cliff dwellings, in southwest Colorado.
Introduction to Mesa Verde National Park
Mesa Verde has been inhabited since at least 7500 BC, but the most important period was the 600 years starting in the 7th century. During this time, the cliff dwellings were built. The site was abandoned by the 14th century.
Journalist Virginia McClurg (1857-1931) rediscovered the first cliff dwellings – Echo Cliff House, Three Tier House, and Balcony House in 1885, while Richard Wetherill (1858-1910) stumbled upon Cliff Palace on December 18, 1888. Members of the Ute tribe, however, already knew about the ruins but didn’t visit as they considered them sacred ancestral sites.
After Gustaf Nordenskiöld (1868-1895) removed several artifacts in 1891, McClurg ramped up her efforts to protect Mesa Verde. She formed the Colorado Cliff Dwellers Association, gave speeches both domestically and internationally, and published poems in popular magazines. As for Nordenskiöld’s collection, it was shipped to Sweden and ended up in the National Museum of Finland in Helsinki. Countless other artifacts removed during the late 19th and early 20th centuries ended up in private collections and museums all over the world.
Theodore Roosevelt established Mesa Verde National Park on June 29, 1906. Over the next several decades, the ruins were excavated and stabilized. Starting in 1932, the Civilian Conservation Corps built roads and trails, created museum exhibits, and constructed buildings. The park was declared a UNESCO World Heritage site in 1978.
Mesa Verde National Park covers an area of 52,485 acres of which 8,500 acres was designated wilderness in 1976. There are 4,372 documented archaeological sites including over 600 cliff dwellings. In fact, it’s the largest, most important, and best preserved archaeological field in the United States.
Planning Your Trip to Mesa Verde National Park
For the casual visitor, you can cover a lot in just a half day by visiting a cliff dwelling and stopping at the overlooks. I spent one full day at Mesa Verde, although that could have easily been two or three. Wetherill Mesa was closed for the season, and I would have stayed at least another day had it been open.
Before getting into some of the trails and highlights of the park, here’s some essential information to help you plan your trip:
Entrance Fees for Mesa Verde National Park
The entrance fee to Mesa Verde varies depending on your mode of transportation. Prices are current as of September 2025:
- For private vehicles, it’s US$30 between May 1 and October 22 and US$20 the rest of the year.
- For motorcycles, it’s US$20 between May 1 and October 22 and US$15 the rest of the year.
- For visitors entering on bicycle or on foot, it’s US$15 for adults and free for kids under 16.
- Holders of any interagency pass are covered for one vehicle or four per person fees.
Entrance fees are good for seven days. Please note the Wetherill Mesa section is closed from October through April.
Mesa Verde Visitor and Research Center
The Mesa Verde Visitor and Research Center is located just before the entrance gate. The state-of-the-art building opened in December 2012 and is open year-round. Park entrance fees are collected there from early January through early March.
Outside the visitor center is The Ancient Ones, a monument a bronze sculpture by Edward J. Fraughton (1939-2024). It was erected in 2012 and depicts an Ancestral Puebloan climbing a cliff face while carrying a bundle of wood.
Inside the building you’ll find exhibits about the Ancestral Puebloans and their descendants as well as the park’s research collection.
Cliff Dwelling Tours at Mesa Verde National Park
Reservations are required if you plan on taking one of the guided cliff dwelling tours. Tours sell out quickly but can be purchased online up to 14 days in advance. We took a tour of Balcony House and it was the highlight of our day at the park.
Keep in mind that cliff dwelling tours are not recommended for everyone. Consider your physical limitations. There are steep steps, ladders, and tight spaces that may be difficult for some to navigate.
Cliff Palace
Cliff Palace is the largest known cliff dwelling in North America. It’s a moderate 45-minute tour with a total distance of ¼ mile (400 meters). It descends on very uneven stone steps and you’ll have to climb four ladders. The total elevation change is 100 feet (30 meters).
Tours are limited to 50 people and it’s offered early May through mid-October. You’ll meet the ranger at the Cliff Palace Overlook on Chapin Mesa. Tickets are US$8 for adults and US$1 for kids under 2 (as of September 2025).
Balcony House
Balcony House is a strenuous hour-long tour with a total distance of ¼ mile (400 meters). You’ll have to climb a 32-foot (9.8 meter) ladder, crawl through an 18-inch (45 centimeter) wide by 27-inch (68 centimeter) tall tunnel that’s 12 feet (3.7 meters) long, and climb up a 66-foot (20 meter) open cliff face with uneven stone steps, and two 18-foot (5.5 meter) ladders to exit.
Tours are limited to 35 people and it’s offered early May through mid-October. You’ll meet the ranger at the Balcony House shade structure on Chapin Mesa. Tickets are US$8 for adults and US$1 for kids under 2 (as of September 2025).
Long House
Long House is the second largest cliff dwelling at Mesa Verde National Park with over 150 rooms. It’s a moderate 90-minute tour with a round-trip distance of 2 ¼ miles (3.6 kilometers), including the walk between the parking lot and trailhead. There’s an elevation loss/gain of about 130 feet (40 meters). You’ll have to descend a steep staircase and climb two 15-foot (4.5 meter) ladders.
Tours are limited to 30 people and it’s offered late May through late September. You’ll meet the ranger at the Long House trailhead on Wetherill Mesa. Tickets are US$8 for adults and US$1 for kids under 2 (as of September 2025).
Backcountry Cliff Dwelling Tours
There are also special tours to backcountry sites. They’re typically offered early May through mid-October, once daily, and are limited to 10 people. The schedule and sites change annually, so check the official website for what’s on offer. Possibilities include Square Tower House, Mug House, Oak Tree House, and Yucca House National Monument. Tickets are US$25 for visitors age 3+ only.
- Square Tower House, on Chapin Mesa, features the tallest structure at Mesa Verde National Park as well as an intact kiva roof and original plaster and paint. It’s a strenuous 2-hour tour with a distance of 1 mile (1.6 kilometers) along an unpaved uneven trail. It descends 120 feet (37 meter), and includes “steep drop-offs, switchbacks, and two 16-foot (5 meter) ladders”. You’ll also have to scramble over boulders, walk along a 34-foot (10 meter) narrow cliff ledge. You’ll meet the ranger at the Square Tower House trailhead.
- Oak Tree House, on Chapin Mesa, is one of the largest cliff dwellings in the park. It’s a strenuous 2-hour tour with a round-trip distance of 1 mile (1.6 kilometers) along an unpaved uneven trail. There’s a total elevation change of 200 feet (61 meters). You’ll have to navigate steps carved into the sandstone, steep drop-offs, a 4-foot (1.2 meter) and 15-foot (4.6 meter) ladder. You’ll also have to scramble over boulders and move along a 15-foot (4.5 meter) open cliff face with uneven stone steps and a rope guideline. You’ll meet the ranger at the Sun Temple Overlook.
Accommodation at Mesa Verde National Park
There are limited options for staying inside the park boundaries, but you’ll find plenty of accommodation in nearby towns.
Camping
Morefield Campground is the only developed campground at Mesa Verde. It has 267 sites and rarely fills. It’s open early May through late October and costs US$38 for a tent site or dry RV site, or US$51 for one of the 15 full hook-up RV sites (as of September 2025). A full-service village with showers, a restaurant, gift shop, grocery store, coin-operated laundry, and gas station is located at the campground.
Far View Lodge
Far View Lodge is the only lodge at the park. It’s typically open from mid-April through mid-October and is located at the intersection of Mesa Top Ruins Road and Wetherill Mesa Road. You can find the Metate Room Restaurant at the lodge and the Far View Terrace is ¼ mile away.
Retro Inn at Mesa Verde
Because we were visiting in off-season, we stayed in nearby Cortez at the Retro Inn at Mesa Verde. It was reasonably priced with a friendly staff and comfortable rooms. A simple breakfast was included in the rate, and the hotel is near several restaurants.
Activities at Mesa Verde National Park
In addition to cliff dwelling tours, hiking, stargazing, photography, birdwatching, cross-country skiing, and snowshoeing, are some of the activities available at the park. Check the official website for more ideas. Information about free lectures and other programs can be found on the website and at the visitor center.
Safety at Mesa Verde National Park
The best advice is to take plenty of water and seek shelter if there’s lightning. Also, know your physical limits, especially if you have heart or respiratory issues. The park elevation is between 7,000 (2,134 meters) and 7,500 feet (2,286 meters) above sea level.
Mesa Top Ruins Road
Mesa Top Ruins Road is the main road through Mesa Verde National Park. It runs for about 21 miles from the visitor center to Chapin Mesa.
The first half of Mesa Top Ruins Road has several steep inclines and hairpin turns as well as a short tunnel. There are a few different overlooks located along this stretch of the road.
As the road evens out, it passes the Far View Lodge and the junction at Wetherill Mesa Road. It then continues south where there are turns to Spruce Tree Terrace, Mesa Top Loop, and Cliff Palace Loop Road.
Mancos Valley Overlook
Mancos Valley Overlook is the first stop, located just before the entrance to the Morefield Campground. From there, you’ll enjoy great views of the Mancos Valley.
An interpretive panel explains how tourists would get to the cliff dwellings in the late 19th and early 20th centuries. You can also spot the small town of Mancos in the distance. The park’s first headquarters was located there from 1906 to 1920.
Montezuma Valley Overlook
After passing through a tunnel and continuing down the road, you can stop at the Montezuma Valley Overlook, which provides views to the northwest. From there, you’re able to see the town of Cortez.
Park Point
The road twists and turns until it comes to another road taking you up to Park Point. At 8,572 feet, this is the highest point at Mesa Verde National Park. The summit contains a ranger station and two overlooks.
At the south overlook, there’s an interpretive panel titled “The Grandest View”. On a clear day, you can see all the way to Shiprock in New Mexico. It obviously wasn’t very grand when I visited.
At the north overlook, it was more of the same. Hopefully on my next visit I’ll have better weather!
Geologic Overlook
After a few more curves, you’ll come to Geologic Overlook for more views to the northwest.
Far View Sites
The Far View sites were a community of farming villages just south of the Far View Lodge. Many visitors overlook Far View in favor of the more popular cliff dwellings, but it’s well worth taking the time to see all of the structures there.
The Far View area was populated by Ancestral Puebloans from around 800 to 1300. The structures at the site were built at least 200 years before the park’s famous cliff dwellings. They’re similar to the structures found at Chaco Culture National Historical Park in New Mexico.
About 50 villages have been identified within a ½-square-mile area, and the Far View sites were excavated from 1916 to 1922. An easy ¾-mile loop trail takes visitors to a handful of the excavated and stabilized sites.
Far View House
The first site on the loop, next to the parking lot, is Far View House. It was built as early as 1018 and contains 30 to 40 rectangular rooms surrounding a large kiva. Three smaller kivas were added later.
Pipe Shrine House
Pipe Shrine House, which is much small than Far View House, sits nearby. It was built in the 11th century and expanded throughout the 13th century. Dr. Jesse Walter Fewkes (1850-1930) excavated the site for the Smithsonian Institution in 1922. He named it for the dozen decorated tobacco pipes and some small carved stone figures found in one of the kivas.
Coyote Village
Moving clockwise around the trail is Coyote Village. An interpretive panel at the site indicates it was built, occupied, abandoned, rebuilt, and reoccupied several times starting around 975.
Coyote Village was once 2 stories high but now consists of only 30 ground floor rooms. There are five kivas and a watchtower. One of the kivas is connected to the tower by a tunnel. The keyhole-shaped kivas are unique to Mesa Verde and indicate a local style that came to be preferred in the 13th century. You’ll also find mealing bins for grinding corn and other grains.
Far View Reservoir
Next is the Far View Reservoir. It was built in at least two phases starting at the beginning of the 10th century and was recognized as a reservoir by Gustav Nordenskiöld (1868-1895) in 1891. The reservoir, which is about 90 feet in diameter, was created by hollowing out a large area and constructing stone embankments around it. It has been named a National Historic Civil Engineering Landmark by the American Society of Civil Engineers.
Megalithic House
A spur trail past the reservoir takes you to Megalithic House, which is under a protective structure. It was a small collection of rooms surrounding a kiva and courtyard. It represents a typical late 12th-century home and was probably occupied by one extended family.
Dr. Jesse Walter Fewkes, who excavated the structure in 1922, named it for the large stones at the base of some walls. Only about half of the house is visible, with the rest unexcavated or backfilled.
Far View Tower
The final structure on the loop is the Far View Tower, which was built around 1200. It’s a 2-story tower surrounded by about 15 rooms. Two small kivas are detached from the structure.
Cedar Tree Tower
A short drive past the Far View sites, you’ll reach the turn to Cedar Tree Tower. The structure is a combination of a tower and a kiva. It was built sometime between 1100 and 1300 but its purpose is unknown. Some experts believe it was ceremonial while others think it was used as part of a communication system.
From the tower, you can hike the Farming Terrace Trail. It’s a short ½-mile loop to Ancestral Puebloan dams created for farming terraces. There are also some nice views of one of the canyons in the park.
Spruce Tree Terrace
The turn to Spruce Tree Terrace is near the end of Mesa Top Ruins Road. It contains a museum as well as one of the most popular cliff dwellings in the park.
Mesa Verde Museum
The Mesa Verde Museum, formerly the Chapin Mesa Archaeological Museum, is likely the first place you’ll see at Spruce Tree Terrace. It was constructed between 1922 and 1925 to replace a log cabin that exhibited cultural items beginning in 1917. There are prehistoric artifacts and other items on display. It’s possible to watch a 25-minute film about the park and see the UNESCO World Heritage plaque. (Note: The museum exhibits have been reimagined since my visit. New exhibits are expected to be installed in 2026 (as of September 2025).)
The diorama exhibit, which opened in 1939, illustrated life in an Ancestral Puebloan village. They were made by artists from the Civilian Conservation Corps and the Works Progress Administration using beeswax, balsam resin, and cotton. Native Americans found them inappropriate and offensive, and they were retired in 2025. They were covered and are being preserved in place per National Park Service guidelines.
Spruce Tree House
Spruce Tree House is the only Ancestral Puebloan cliff dwelling at Mesa Verde National Park that you can visit on a self-guided tour. It’s open from early March to early November. During the winter, free ranger guided tours are available three times daily. (Note: Spruce Tree House has been closed since October 2015 due to danger from rock falls (as of September 2025).)
Spruce Tree House is the easiest cliff dwelling to access at Mesa Verde and also the best-preserved. 90% of the materials, including wood, walls, and plaster, are original. There’s a ½-mile round-trip path down to the site. You can also view it from an overlook.
The structures were built between 1211 and 1278 into a natural alcove measuring 216 feet (66 meters) wide and 89 feet (27 meters) deep. It’s the third largest cliff dwelling at the park and contains about 130 rooms and 8 kivas. About 60 to 80 people lived there.
The structure was rediscovered in 1888 by two local ranchers searching for stray cattle. It’s named for a large tree that they climbed down from the mesa top. The tree, which was misidentified as a Douglas spruce, was later cut down.
Spruce Tree House was excavated and stabilized by Dr. Jesse Walter Fewkes of the Smithsonian Institution. It opened to the public shortly after in 1908. Further stabilization was completed in the 1940s and 1960s. Visitors have the chance to enter a kiva via a ladder.
Trails at Spruce Tree Terrace
Two trails begin at the museum. The Petroglyph Point Trail and the Spruce Canyon Trail are both 2.4 miles (3.9 kilometers) round-trip and considered strenuous. Hikers are required to register at the museum or trailhead before setting off.
Spruce Tree Terrace Café
If you need to grab a bite to eat, head to the Spruce Tree Terrace Café. It’s open daily and has indoor and outdoor dining as well as take away orders.
Mesa Top Loop
If you continue straight at the end of Mesa Top Ruins Road, you’ll hit Mesa Top Loop. It’s a 6-mile (10 kilometer) one-way loop road containing 12 easily-accessible sites, including ruins and overlooks. It’s open 8am to sunset.
The sites chronicle the evolution of 700 years of Ancestral Puebloan architecture, from pithouses to pueblos to cliff dwellings. We weren’t able to visit everything along Mesa Top Loop because we had to make sure we got to our guided tour of Balcony House on time.
Pithouse
The first stop along the one-way loop is a pithouse under a shelter. Pithouses were the earliest type of permanent dwellings built by the Ancestral Puebloans at Mesa Verde. They started appearing around the middle of the 6th century. Interpretive panels surround the site to explain what you’re looking at.
Navajo Canyon View
Next is Navajo Canyon View, where you can get spectacular panoramic views of Navajo Canyon. It’s at an elevation of 7,000 feet (2,130 meters).
Sun Point View
We skipped a short trail to view Square Tower House and the next few pithouses and villages to get to Sun Point View. There, it’s possible to spot some cliff dwellings, including Cliff Palace to the right.
To the left you can look down Fewkes Canyon all the way to Oak Tree House.
Oak Tree House Overlook
Continuing along the road is an overlook with views of Oak Tree House. It once consisted of 60 rooms and was built starting in the 1190s. It’s one of the largest cliff dwellings in the park.
Fire Temple Overlook
Next is another overlook with views of Fire Temple and New Fire House in Fewkes Canyon. Fire Temple was thought to have been used for religious purposes only. Both Fire Temple and New Fire House are dated to the middle of the 13th century.
Sun Temple
Mesa Top Loop swings around to a smaller loop at the Sun Temple. This interesting D-shaped structure seems to have been pre-designed unlike the other structures in the park. It contains several rooms and 2 kivas, and the walls were probably between 11 and 14 feet high.
The Sun Temple was never finished and its function is still a mystery. The structure contains no windows, doors, or fire pits, suggesting it wasn’t meant to be used as a residence. You can also look down Fewkes Canyon from the ruins.
Cliff Palace View
From the Sun Temple parking lot, it’s possible to get excellent views of Cliff Palace.
Cliff Palace Loop Road
If you’re heading south down Mesa Top Ruins Road and turn left at the end, you’ll be on Cliff Palace Loop Road. It leads to two of the most impressive cliff dwellings in the park as well as some more viewpoints and a trail.
Cliff Palace
Cliff Palace is the first stop along the road. It’s the largest cliff dwelling in North America. Take the short trail from the parking lot to the overlook for an incredible overhead view. It’s only possible to visit on a ranger guided tour
Cliff Palace was built starting in the 1190s and completed around 1260. It was abandoned by the 14th century. The structure contained over 150 rooms and 23 kivas. About 100 people lived there. It was rediscovered on December 18, 1888, by local rancher Richard Wetherill (1858-1910) and his brother-in-law, Charlie Mason, while searching for stray cattle.
Also from the overlook, there are some fantastic views towards Fewkes canyon and another smaller cliff dwelling across the way.
Balcony House
After passing a couple overlooks and rounding the loop back north, the next major stop is Balcony House. It’s the most adventurous of the cliff dwellings at Mesa Verde National Park and it’s only possible to visit on a ranger guided tour. The tour begins with a 100-foot staircase descending into the canyon, then climbing a 32-foot ladder to reach the site.
At the site, you’ll learn that it has about 40 rooms, which is considered a medium-sized cliff dwelling. Only 10 of the 600 cliff dwellings at Mesa Verde are bigger. The ranger stops and lectures at a few points, explaining important features of Balcony House and its history.
It’s interesting to point out that the cliff dwelling was rediscovered in 1884 by prospectors looking for coal. Archaeologist and park superintendent Jesse Nusbaum (1887-1975) excavated the site in 1910.
Some of the features we noticed were faded paint on some of the walls, a blackened ceiling from fires set by the residents, and original wood used to stabilize the structure.
On the way back up, we had to squeeze through a narrow 18-inch-wide tunnel for 12 feet. A few in the group were claustrophobic and weren’t happy about it!
After that, it was a 60 foot climb up more ladders and steep stone steps, which got those with a fear of heights a little nervous. The views were incredible, though.
Soda Canyon Overlook Trail
If you’re interested in seeing Balcony House from a scenic viewpoint, you can hike the easy 1.2-mile round-trip Soda Canyon Overlook Trail. The trailhead is located just up the road from the Balcony House parking lot.
