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Supía is a small town in the northwest of the Caldas department, just a half hour from Riosucio. Some rural areas are part of the UNESCO World Heritage listed Coffee Cultural Landscape of Colombia.
Introduction to Supía
Supía was originally inhabited by the Cartama people. The name comes from Supinía, which means “Path of the cacique Pía” in their native language. The town was founded on February 2, 1540, and is one of the oldest settlements in Colombia.
The Spaniards were drawn to the area for its rich gold resources and established mines. The native population was decimated due to disease, forced labor, and violence, and African slaves were brought in to replace them. Over time, the area developed a significant mixed-race population.
Supía became a municipality in 1816 and retained its importance as a gold mining town throughout the 19th century. Today, it’s still a mining town but is also very heavily agricultural. As far as tourism, there’s very little to see in town, but it’s popular for its resorts and recreational centers with pools thanks to the hot climate.
Getting to Supía
From Riosucio, you can catch one of the frequent minibuses. The ride takes about a half hour, and you’ll likely get dropped off near the plaza.
Parque de Bolívar
Parque de Bolívar is the main plaza in Supía. It’s a scenic spot filled with tall trees and benches. In the center is a monument to Simón Bolívar (1783-1830). It’s dated 1930, commemorating the 100th anniversary of his death.
The plaza has a lively atmosphere if you visit in the afternoon, especially on weekends. There are a couple of outdoor beer gardens and cafés. Many locals enjoy sitting outside to have a drink under the shade of the trees.
Church of San Lorenzo
The Church of San Lorenzo (Iglesia de San Lorenzo), which is on the north side of the plaza, is the historical and architectural highlight of Supía. The parish was founded on August 15, 1685, and construction on the current church began on January 22, 1884. It was designed by English architect William Martin and funded by mining entrepreneur Bartolomé Chávez.
The church combines the Gothic, Romanesque, and Neoclassical Renaissance styles. Its signature exposed brick façade was controversially covered with cement and granite between the 1920s and 1950s, but it has since returned to its original appearance.
The church consists of a central nave and two aisles lined with chapels. There’s a chapel at the end of each aisle and in the right transept.
Where to Eat in Supía
There’s only one place we’ve visited in Supía and we’d be happy to stop in every time we pass through.
Manolo Bakery
There’s no better reason to visit Supía than Manolo Bakery. This small friendly bakery and café serves up some of the best pastries this side of the Atlantic. It can fit nicely in any major city around the world. Seriously. It’s that good. If baking is an art, Manolo has turned it into a masterpiece.
We stopped in for breakfast and coffee on a long drive and were impressed from the moment we walked in. Staff kept bringing out more and more baked goods such as croissants and cookies, and we didn’t know where to start.
We sat down and ordered coffee, which is very good, and two different croissants to share. Both the almond croissant and caprese, which is stuffed with cream cheese, grilled cheese, sprouts, and tomato jam, are incredible. The croissants are buttery and flaky and easily the best we’ve had in Colombia. In addition to croissants, Manolo Bakery serves breakfast and brunch.
Before leaving, we grabbed a few cookies, a cheesecake, and a loaf of bread to go. I can tell you the bread is excellent, and the cookies and cheesecake are phenomenal. As for the cookies, they’re soft and tasty without overpowering sweetness. Most bakeries in the country I’ve experienced have rock-hard cookies with way too much sugar. We’ll definitely make Manolo Bakery a mandatory stop whenever we pass through the area in the future. I highly recommend you do the same.
