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The Rosario Islands (Islas del Rosario) is an archipelago about 20 kilometers (12 miles) from Cartagena.
Introduction to the Rosario Islands
The Rosario Islands are part of the Rosario and San Bernardo Corals National Natural Park (Parque Nacional Natural Corales del Rosario y San Bernardo), which was founded in 1988. They’re a popular destination for day trippers from Cartagena, and there are several resorts as well. The islands offer plenty of opportunities for recreation and relaxation, including snorkeling and diving at the coral reefs, fishing, and relaxing on the beach.
Day Trip to the Rosario Islands and Playa Blanca
There are several companies offering day trips from Cartagena to the Rosario Islands, including a beach stop at Playa Blanca. I took a day trip on my very first visit to the islands when my cousin Anna was in from Philadelphia. We opted for an organized trip on a large boat.
All in all, a day trip should cost roughly COP$120,000 per adult and COP$105,000 per child age 3-10 (as of December 2024), including the boat trip, lunch at Playa Blanca, and dock fees. The tax of COP$20,000 (as of December 2024) to enter the national park that encompasses the Rosario Islands is not included. You should be able to book directly with a tour operator or through your accommodation.
The Boat
Our boat was the Alcatraz II, one of the most popular boats for this tour. On board, they were selling fresh mango and drinks. There was loud music playing making it a festive atmosphere. We were able to sit on the top deck and get some sun, or on the bottom in the shade. It was uncomfortable everywhere we sat.
The Cruise
The scenery on the trip was enjoyable. First, we passed Bocagrande, the modern part of Cartagena with all the skyscrapers. On the other side of the bay is Fort San Sebastián del Pastelillo (Fuerte de San Sebastián del Pastelillo), one of the several old Spanish forts dotting the shore. We were also able to spot the Virgin of Mount Carmel (Virgen del Carmen), a statue sitting right in the middle of the bay.
At the end of Bocagrande we could see another Spanish fort, Castillo Grande de Santa Cruz. It sits next to the larger entrance to the bay, also called Bocagrande (Large Mouth). An underwater seawall was constructed across this opening by the Spanish to keep ships from entering the bay. It caused many shipwrecks and is still impassible today.
Next, we passed through Bocachica (Small Mouth), the small entrance to the bay. This is where all ships had to come through to approach Cartagena. Sitting on Isla de Tierra Bomba is Fort San Fernando (Fuerte de San Fernando), and directly across on a tiny island is the Battery of San José (Batería de San José). These small forts were the main line of defense against ships passing through Bocachica.
Once through Bocachica, we were out on the open Caribbean Sea. There were many fishermen in small boats casting nets for the day’s fresh catch.
Arriving at the Rosario Islands
About an hour and a half later, we finally arrived at the Rosario Islands, a group of several small islands containing coral reefs and mangroves. It was very interesting to see structures occupying such tiny pieces of land with zero protection from the elements.
Oceanarium
We cruised around the islands for a good 20 minutes before finally stopping at the Oceanarium. They offer a dolphin show for COP$30,000 per adult and COP$25,000 per child (as of December 2024). We decided not to do it and ended up sitting for an hour at a picnic table under the shade of a tree.
There was a concession stand with very high prices, a literal tourist trap. There were also independent vendors at the dock selling fruit, fresh lobster, and shrimp, also for very high prices. A sign posted at the oceanarium warned against buying from these vendors for sanitary purposes, but Anna decided not to heed the warnings. She was perfectly fine and didn’t get sick.
Lunch and Time at Playa Blanca
We left the Rosario Islands at 12:30pm and arrived at Playa Blanca, located on Isla Barú, just over an hour later. Our boat stopped just off the beach and we took a tender to shore. From there, we walked inland about five minutes and had a delicious lunch of fried fish, coconut rice, salad, and patacón (fried plantain).
After lunch, we only had until 3:30pm to enjoy the beach. It wasn’t nearly enough time. We took a dip in the warm sea with crystal clear waters then sat on our beach chairs which we rented for a small fee. The tender took us back to the boat and we departed at 4pm, arriving in Cartagena at 5:30pm.
My Thoughts on the Day Trip
This tour overall wasn’t worth it. It was nice to cruise through the Rosario Islands to see such a unique environment, but the main purpose of the day was to spend time enjoying the islands and the beach. When you break down the time, we spent nearly 6 hours on the boat, 1 hour wasting time at the oceanarium, 30 minutes at lunch, and just an hour and a half at the beach. The first part of the boat ride was great because we were up walking around checking out all the sights along the way. After that, it was just sitting uncomfortably. If you like sitting on uncomfortable boats all day, this trip was made for you.
Secondly, Playa Blanca is overcrowded and it’s difficult to relax. Men on jetskis were racing without caution and we thought it was a bit dangerous for people who wanted to go further out than waist-deep water. It’s better to walk further down the beach where it’s more quiet and relaxing. Unfortunately this is no longer possible as the entire beach is now overcrowded.
Finally, if you really want to see the Rosario Islands and spend quality time on them, take a day trip to one of the many resorts. The positive: the beaches are private and much less crowded and quieter than Playa Blanca. The negative: it’s more expensive.
Resorts on the Rosario Islands
The Rosario Islands are dotted with resorts catering to every budget and taste, including the opportunity to rent out your own private island. You’ll find quiet places to relax and family-oriented resorts as well as resorts with beach parties. You can stay overnight or get a day pass.
I’ve had the chance to get day passes at one resort. Obviously, it’s is much more expensive than going to Playa Blanca or taking the day trip I mentioned above, but If you want to get away from the crowds and chaos and have a more peaceful beach experience, a day pass is a good option.
Rosario de Mar
Our tour groups to Cartagena have often decided to spend a day at Rosario de Mar (formerly Gente de Mar), a beach resort on Isla Grande. They’ve preferred this option rather than taking a trip to overcrowded Playa Blanca.
A day pass at Rosario de Mar is COP$310,000 per adult and COP$210,000 per child age 3-7 (as of May 2024). The cost includes lunch with 10 different options and non-alcoholic drinks. It also includes access to all the facilities on the resort, and a beach chair. Not included are spa services, snorkeling equipment, other optional activities, alcoholic drinks, and the COP$23,000 dock fee to enter the national park (as of May 2024). We always book directly through the resort.
To get to the island, go to the docks and find Gate 4. Once you arrive, you pay the dock fee and get escorted to the boat. It leaves at around 8am, and you should be on the beach in just over an hour.
There are usually anywhere between 30 and 50 people visiting the resort on a day trip plus the overnight guests, but it feels like fewer once everyone disperses.
The beach wasn’t as good as I was expecting. There was lots of seaweed and some rocks, but at least the water is warm and calm.
It was a relaxing day, minus a few vendors trying to sell us souvenirs, and the lunch was decent. When it was over, we were taken back to Cartagena at about 3pm and walked back to our hotel once we arrived.
