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Parque Caldas sits at the heart of the historic center of Popayán. This huge plaza is surrounded by some of the White City’s most important religious and government buildings.
Overview of Parque Caldas
Parque Caldas, Popayán‘s main square and historic heart, was laid out in 1537. It was originally a market square, surrounded by the houses of the city’s founders and the seats of religious and government power. Public executions were held there until 1766, when the execution post was replaced by a water feature.
Once enclosed by an iron gate forged by Julio Ramos, Parque Caldas was later beautified in 1910 with the planting of trees and the addition of a monument, replacing a stone water basin installed in 1805. The basin was transferred to the town of Timbío, then later brought back in exchange for a bust of President Pedro Nel Ospina (1858–1927) and placed in front of the Church of Santo Domingo a block east.
The square was pedestrianized starting in April 2009 following a proposal by architect Lorenzo Castro. Today, it’s a pleasant place to relax, with street vendors scattered throughout. Over the years, it’s hosted large religious, political, and civic gatherings as well as celebrations.
Monument to Francisco José de Caldas
In the center of Parque Caldas stands a monument to Francisco José de Caldas (1768–1816), a national hero of Colombia originally from Popayán. It was created by French sculptor Raoul Verlet (1857–1923).
Cathedral of Popayán
The Cathedral of Popayán (Catedral de Popayán), officially the Metropolitan Cathedral Basilica of Our Lady of the Assumption (Catedral Basílica Metropolitana de Nuestra Señora de la Asunción), sits on the south side of Parque Caldas. The Diocese of Popayán was established on August 22, 1546, by Pope Paul III and elevated to an Archdiocese on June 20, 1900, by Pope Leo XIII. The first bishop was Juan del Valle (c. 1500–1563).
The first cathedral was a simple construction with a straw roof. It stood a few blocks east and was later replaced with a brick structure on the site of the present cathedral. Construction on that church began on December 17, 1594, and wasn’t completed until 1682. It was damaged by an earthquake on February 2, 1736, repaired, and eventually demolished in 1785.
The current cathedral was designed by architect Marcelino Pérez de Arroyo y Valencia (1764–1833), and the first stone was laid on May 30, 1819. Construction was halted a couple months later because of the Battle of Boyacá and a significant decrease in funding. Work resumed on August 15, 1889. Adolfo Dueñas Lenis (1845–1909), who also designed the dome, took over the project in 1897. The cathedral was completed on June 12, 1906, and an organ from Paris was installed and inaugurated on December 12, 1909. Pope Pius XII elevated it to a Minor Basilica on April 25, 1953.
On March 31, 1983, at 8:15am, a devastating earthquake struck Popayán, collapsing the dome and destroying the organ. Around 25% of all deaths in the city occurred at the cathedral, where worshippers were celebrating Holy Thursday. The dome was reconstructed according to its original design, with the cathedral reopened in 1989. Pope John Paul II visited in 1986.
Side Chapels and Altars of the Cathedral of Popayán
Aside from the main altar, the cathedral is lined with chapels and altars along both aisles.
Main Altar of the Cathedral of Popayán
The main altar sits in the apse and is decorated with a sculpture of Our Lady of the Assumption by Buenaventura Malagón. She’s depicted being transported to heaven, with the world beneath her feet and her arms and eyes raised toward the sky. Before the 1983 earthquake, the apse also featured a golden tabernacle beneath a Neoclassical canopy — considered one of the finest in South America — along with an organ brought from Germany in 1902. All of these were destroyed.
Altar of Santo Ecce Homo
The Altar of Santo Ecce Homo, in the right transept, is a Neoclassical work framed by two pairs of Doric columns. The sculpture of Santo Ecce Homo in the center was made by Spanish sculptor José Lamiel in the 20th century. It’s a replica of the original kept in the Chapel of Bethlehem on the east side of town and is used during Holy Week processions.
Chapel of Calvary
Next is the Chapel of Calvary, with a long pedestal that holds three sculptures used during Holy Week processions. At the center is a crucified Christ, the Holy Christ of Anguish (Santo Cristo de las Angustias), a 17th-century Spanish work. On the left is Our Lady of Sorrows (Nuestra Señora de los Dolores), and on the right is St. John the Evangelist (Juan el Evangelista), both made in Spain in the 18th century. They’re framed by two pairs of Corinthian columns.
Altar of the Sacred Heart
In the left transept, you’ll find the Altar of the Sacred Heart. It contains an image of the Lord of the Earthquake that survived the 1983 disaster. As a memorial to the victims who lost their lives, the archbishop at the time decided to keep it in the same condition in which it was found rather than have it restored.
Chapel of the Immaculate Conception
Continuing along the left aisle is the Chapel of the Immaculate Conception. In the arched apse, framed by two pairs of Corinthian columns, is an image of the Immaculate Conception, also known as Our Lady of the Apocalypse, an 18th-century work by Bernardo de Legarda (c. 1700–1773) of the Quito school. On the left side of the long pedestal is an 18th-century sculpture of St. Anne, while on the right is a sculpture of St. Joachim — a replica of an original at the Church of Our Lady of Mount Carmel by Spanish artist Pedro Duque Cornejo (1677–1757).
Altar of St. Joseph
After passing the Altar of Our Lady of Mount Carmel, the third and final altar along the left aisle is dedicated to St. Joseph. It features a Neoclassical arch framed by two Doric columns, with an image of St. Joseph at the center. The artist who created this altar was highly skilled and paid great attention to detail.
Archbishop’s Palace
The Archbishop’s Palace (Palacio Arzobispal) sits to the right of the cathedral. It was built in 1940 on land left vacant after the demolition of the second cathedral in 1785. The palace faces both Parque Caldas and Calle del Reloj (Carrera 7).
Popayán Clock Tower
The famous Popayán Clock Tower (Torre del Reloj de Popayán), modeled on a tower in Chiapas, Mexico, sits at the southwest corner of Parque Caldas. Nicknamed the Nose of Popayán (La Nariz de Popayán) by poet Guillermo Valencia (1873–1943), it’s one of the city’s main symbols and also serves as the cathedral’s bell tower.
The first stone for the Spanish Baroque tower was laid by Bishop Cristóbal Bernaldo de Quiroz in 1673, and it was completed in 1682. Mateo de Villafañe y Panduro (1646–1722), Bishop of Popayán, ordered its use as a prison from 1696 to 1714. An English clock was installed in 1737.
House of Don Jacinto de Mosquera y Figueroa
Continuing clockwise around Parque Caldas, on the southwest corner is the House of Don Jacinto de Mosquera y Figueroa (Casa de Don Jacinto de Mosquera y Figueroa), considered by some to be the oldest surviving house in Popayán. Construction began before 1710, ordered by wealthy landowner Jacinto de Mosquera y Figueroa, who bought the existing building and expanded it to its current appearance.
The house survived powerful earthquakes in 1736 and 1983 thanks to its strong walls — more than a meter thick and made of brick and stone. It features two interior courtyards surrounded by balconies. Today, it serves commercial purposes.
House of Governor Tacón
At the northwest corner is the House of Governor Tacón (Casa del Gobernador Tacón). The land for the house was ceded to Spanish conquistador Juan de Ampudia (d. 1541), who passed it on to his descendants after his death. They only built a simple hut, which didn’t survive the earthquake of 1564. Another house was constructed at the beginning of the 18th century, but it also fell during the earthquake of 1736.
The current structure was built by Luis Solís, who then sold it to Agustín Manuel Varela of Buga, and he in turn leased the corner to Miguel Tacón y Rosique (1777–1855), named Governor of Popayán in March 1806. The building has been modified since the earthquake of 1983, with stone portals added to both façades. Today, it serves as the city’s main branch of Banco Agrario.
Banco del Estado Building
At the corner is the Banco del Estado Building, originally an elegant two-story structure built in 1924 and designed in the Eclectic style with Republican elements. A mid-18th century house was demolished to make way.
In the 1970s, the building was remodeled and expanded, adding two stories and changing the appearance to a Modernist style. After the 1983 earthquake, some colonial features were added, such as the two stone portals, one of which bears an inscription with the year 1884.
Government of Cauca
On the north side is the headquarters of the Government of Cauca. The land was originally owned by Sebastián de Belalcázar and later passed to Juan James de Rojas, who built a simple one-story structure with a tile roof. The property changed hands several times until 1719, when Governor Marcos Antonio de Rivera y Guzmán, Marquis of San Juan de Rivera, acquired it and built a mansion.
The Government of Cauca purchased the property in 1909 and demolished the mansion to build its headquarters, designed in the Eclectic style with Republican features. That building was almost completely destroyed by the earthquake in 1983, and the current two-story Neocolonial structure with stone portals was constructed starting in 1986.
Site of the House of Sebastián de Belalcázar
The site of the house of Spanish conquistador Sebastián de Belalcázar (c. 1490–1551), the founder of Popayán, stands to the east. He received the land shortly after the city was established in 1537 and built a simple one-story home of bahareque and straw. His successors improved and enlarged it, and it passed to the city around 1650.
In 1736, the property was acquired by Domingo Ibarra, who built the current two-story structure and added the beautiful stone portal. The building features balconies and a central courtyard with a small pool. It was acquired by the Government of Cauca shortly after the 1983 earthquake and restored. It currently serves as the departmental headquarters of the Ministry of Education.
Popayán City Hall
Around the corner on the east side is Popayán City Hall (Alcaldía de Popayán). It was originally the site of the house of Spanish conquistador Pedro de Velasco (c. 1510–1571), whose descendants expanded it into a two-story brick mansion. They also added a stone portal.
After an earthquake in 1906, the building was demolished and rebuilt in the Eclectic style. Its current appearance comes from repairs made following the 1983 earthquake.
Los Portales
On the east side you’ll find Los Portales (The Portals), one of the first Spanish buildings constructed in Popayán. It was originally designed to serve as a market on Fridays. In 1625, Captain Pedro de Velasco y Zúñiga built a single-story gallery with columns supporting a thatched roof.
The building took its current appearance under Dionisia Pérez Manrique y Camberos, Marquise of San Miguel de la Vega (1668–1744), who enlarged it and added a second floor with balconies. She made the building her residence and lived there with her second husband, Baltasar Carlos Pérez de Vivero y de la Vega (1660–1729). The Jesuits inherited the property in 1744 and later sold it to the Spanish Crown.
At the beginning of the 20th century, the popular Café Belalcázar occupied the corner of Los Portales. The Bank of Colombia acquired the building in 1943, demolishing the left side and constructing the modern wing with taller columns. Much of the original design was lost in the 1983 earthquake.
