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The historic center of Popayán is full of whitewashed historic buildings, impressive colonial churches, and small but excellent museums.
Overview of the Historic Center of Popayán
Visitors will spend most of their time in the historic center of Popayán, a flat area measuring roughly 8 blocks east to west and 3 blocks north to south. Every step is lined with history, and many important buildings are marked with information in both Spanish and English. Several others are historically and architecturally notable but don’t get any attention at all, and I hope to shed some light on their stories as well.
Parque Caldas
Parque Caldas, which is covered in another post, is the focal point of the White City. This huge plaza is home to Popayán’s most important religious and government buildings. You can also use it as a point of orientation while exploring the historic center of Popayán.
Calle 3 in the Historic Center of Popayán
Calle 3, also known as Calle de La Pamba, is one block north of Parque Caldas. It’s lined with a handful of museums and historic buildings. We’ll start at Carrera 7 and walk east.
Teatro Municipal Guillermo Valencia
The Teatro Municipal Guillermo Valencia (Guillermo Valencia Municipal Theatre) is one of the most elegant buildings in the historic center of Popayán. Guided tours are available Monday through Friday. They cost COP$8,000 for adults and COP$5,000 for students (as of January 2026).
Borreo y Ospina of Cali oversaw the project, basing the plans on the Théâtre du Châtelet in Paris. Construction took place between 1918 and 1927, and it opened on December 22, 1927, with a presentation of Il Trovatore by Giuseppe Verdi (1813–1901), featuring Catalan tenor Hipólito Lázaro (1887–1974).
In 1973, the theatre was renamed after poet Guillermo Valencia (1873–1943) on the 100th anniversary of his birth and later underwent a 15-year restoration following the 1983 earthquake. A Bohemian crystal chandelier was installed in 1998. The rooftop is adorned with eight of the nine muses of Greek mythology (missing is Calliope).
Site of the House of Don Joaquín Mosquera-Figueroa y Arboleda
Across the street is the site of the House of Don Joaquín Mosquera-Figueroa y Arboleda (Casa de don Joaquín Mosquera-Figueroa y Arboleda). It was commissioned by Joaquín Mosquera-Figueroa y Arboleda (1787–1878), a founding father and the fifth president of Gran Colombia, where he lived with his wife and cousin, María Josefa Mosquera Hurtado, and their children.
The original mansion, built in the late 18th century, was a single-story structure with basements and terraces descending north towards the river. A portal on Carrera 7 allowed entry for the family’s livestock, which were raised on the riverside.
Guillermo Valencia lived there with his wife, Josefina Muñoz, in the early 20th century. Their first son, Guillermo León Valencia (1909–1971), the 22nd President of Colombia from 1962 to 1966, was born there on April 27, 1909. The house was later divided among various owners.
Although it survived the 1983 earthquake with minimal damage, the owner at the time demolished it and replaced it with the current building, a two-story Neo-Popayán-style house that bears no resemblance to the original mansion. It features six balconies on the upper floor facing Calle 3 and five facing Carrera 7.
Casa Obando
Attached to the east is Casa Obando. It was built by Miguel Wenceslao Angulo y Gorbea in the mid-19th century and acquired by the Obando Velasco family about 100 years later. In 1979, the property was transferred to the Municipality of Popayán, and in 1997 it was given to Cauca High School (Colegio Mayor del Cauca).
Bank of the Republic Cultural Center
Next door is the Bank of the Republic Cultural Center (Centro Cultural Banco de la República), a Modernist building designed by Augusto Sánchez Herrera and Camilo Cucalón Aragón. Construction began in 1962, and it opened as the Bank of the Republic’s local headquarters in 1969. It wasn’t affected by the 1983 earthquake, but in the aftermath its vault stored treasures from ruined churches and the Museum of Religious Art to prevent looting.
In 2000, the entire building was designated as a cultural center, opening in 2002. Today, it features a library with over 8,000 volumes, a temporary exhibition hall, and an auditorium.
The building stands on the site of a two-story mansion designed by Marcelino Pérez de Arroyo (1764–1833) for José Marcelino de Mosquera Figueroa y Arboleda Vergara (1741–1803) between 1770 and 1780, and demolished in 1962. The arrest warrant against poet Julio Arboleda Pombo (1817–1862), a protagonist of the Colombian Civil War of 1851, was issued there the same year. The park behind the building bears his name, but his statue had been removed since my last visit.
Casa Torres Tenorio
Across the street to the south is Casa Torres Tenorio, which today serves as the University of Cauca Faculty of Arts (Facultad de Artes de la Universidad del Cauca). The two-story building, once the home of wealthy landowner Jerónimo Torres Tenorio (1771–1839), was designed by Marcelino Pérez de Arroyo. According to the inscription on the portico, construction began around 1802 and was completed in 1809.
The building was restored to its original appearance after the 1983 earthquake. It features a stone and brick portico, balconies, four interior courtyards surrounded by Tuscan brick columns, and Neoclassical elements. The original fountains remain to this day.
House of Don José Rafael Arboleda Arroyo
Across Carrera 6 to the east is the House of Don José Rafael Arboleda Arroyo (Casa de Don José Rafael Arboleda Arroyo). This two-story mansion hosted Simón Bolívar (1783–1830) twice — from October 23–30, 1826, upon his return from Peru, and again from November 19–December 15, 1829, after his victorious campaign in Ecuador.
Constructed after the 1736 earthquake, the house was commissioned by Francisco Arboleda y Hurtado as a home for his descendants. His grandson, José Rafael Arboleda Arroyo (1795–1831), became the owner during the Colombian War of Independence. He lived there with his wife, Matilde Josefa Pombo O’Donell, and raised their two sons — poet Julio Arboleda and journalist Sergio Arboleda (1822–1888) — in the house.
The building has served various commercial and administrative functions, including the temporary headquarters of the Government of Cauca after the 1983 earthquake. It features a brick portal with Mudéjar influences and brick balconies with iron railings. It’s now the Graduate School of the Autonomous University of Cauca (Escuela de Posgrados de la Corporación Universitaria Autónoma del Cauca).
Guillermo Valencia National Museum
Back across the street to the north is the Guillermo Valencia National Museum (Museo Nacional Guillermo Valencia), the former home of poet, writer, and politician Guillermo Valencia Castillo (1873–1943). The museum is open daily except Mondays and admission is free (as of December 2024). A mandatory guided tour of the house leads visitors through several rooms furnished with original décor, photographs, and personal belongings of the Valencia family.
The two-story Neoclassical house was built in the late 18th century and features a large central courtyard. It was commissioned by José Gregorio Angulo and designed by Marcelino Pérez de Arroyo y Valencia. The house later passed to the Angulo Diago family and subsequently to the Valencia family. It hosted German naturalist Alexander von Humboldt (1769–1859) in 1801 and Spanish sculptor Victorio Macho (1887–1966) in 1937.
After the death of Guillermo Valencia in 1943, a mausoleum was built in a room off the garden. He was buried there alongside his wife, Josefina Muñoz.
The garden is the most attractive feature of the house, set on the slope overlooking the Molino River. It features a fountain, a statue of Valencia, and excellent views of the Puente del Humilladero.
Mosquera House Museum
Heading east to the corner of Carrera 5 is the Mosquera House Museum (Casa Museo Mosquera). This 18th-century building was the former home of General Tomás Cipriano de Mosquera (1798–1878), a four-time president of Colombia. It also hosted distinguished guests, including Simón Bolívar from January 23 through February 12, 1829, and Antonio José de Sucre (1795–1830) from January through March 1822 and again from January through May 1830.
Tickets are COP$10,000 for adults and COP$5,000 for children and include admission to the Natural History Museum and the Pantheon of the Heroes (as of December 2025) — they must be purchased at the Pantheon of the Heroes. The museum is open daily except Mondays.
The museum features historical items from the personal collection of the general and his brother, Archbishop Manuel José Mosquera (1800–1853), along with a selection of colonial and religious art.
Luis Eduardo Ayerbe González House Museum
Directly across the street to the south is the Luis Eduardo Ayerbe González House Museum (Casa Museo Luis Eduardo Ayerbe González). It displays a large collection of art and furniture from different periods, including impressive religious works that highlight the city’s cultural heritage. It’s open daily except Sundays, and adult admission is COP$8,000 (as of December 2025). Photography is forbidden inside the rooms.
Built by poet Julio Arboleda Pombo in the 1830s, the one-story house features a triangular gabled pediment above the entrance. In 1913, it was acquired by Samuel González. It was restored after the 1983 earthquake and purchased in 1993 by architect Luis Eduardo Ayerbe González, a promoter of Holy Week in Popayán and the founder of the museum.
The central courtyard, inspired by the House of the Vettii in Pompeii, is paved with cobblestones and surrounded by 14 Tuscan-style columns with red Doric capitals. Above is a wooden frieze with metopes depicting oxen and cornucopia, while a bronze statue of Mercury — a copy of the 1567 original by Giambologna (1529–1608) — stands in the center.
Museum Collection
Docents lead excellent tours through six rooms of the house, pointing out the most important artifacts along the way. The first room is the Desk Room (Sala del Escritorio). It features a 16th-century desk from Germany linked to the Lutheran Reformation; a bust of Simón Bolívar by Italian sculptor Pietro Tenerani (1789–1869), commissioned by Tomás Cipriano de Mosquera (1798–1878); works by notable Colombian artists including Enrique Grau (1920–2004), Efraím Martínez (1898–1956), and Antonio Barrera (1948–1990); and awards and honors highlighting the military achievements of Colonel Carlos Ayerbe Arboleda (1908–1968).
In the Hall of the Emperors (Salón de Emperadores), you’ll see European and colonial works of art, including busts of Roman emperors Hadrian and Augustus, an oil painting from the Cusco school, Murano crystal lamps, and more. This room is followed by the Alcove Room (Sala de la Alcoba), a living space decorated with period furniture such as an Austrian-style imperial bed, French vases, Peruvian silver, art from the Quito school, and porcelain accessories.
The Collections Room (Sala de Colecciones) houses colonial silverware, indigenous ceremonial objects, 18th-century religious images, and a replica of the Crown of the Andes (La Corona de los Andes). The crown, originally from Popayán, was sold to Chicago businessman Warren J. Piper in 1936 and is now on display at the Metropolitan Museum of Art in New York City.
The fifth room is the González Dining Room (Comedor de los González), featuring a carved wooden table surrounded by its original chairs. It reflects the European influence of the early 20th century.
You’ll finish in the Oratory (Oratorio), which contains impressive processionals carved by master sculptors from the Quito school and restored in 2016. These processionals are still used during the Holy Monday procession of Holy Week.
Casa Caldas
On the opposite corner is Casa Caldas, a one-story colonial-style house where Francisco José de Caldas (1768–1816) — scientist, inventor, lawyer, and hero of Colombian independence — was born. He was the fifth of 15 children of José de Caldas y Gamba and María Vicenta Tenorio y Arboleda.
Built in the mid-18th century, the house features a stone and brick portal, a central courtyard, and beautifully carved windows. Caldas later expanded the property down the slope to the north, adding basements used for food storage, animal shelter, and other maintenance purposes. His family continued to live there after his execution in 1816, and the house was restored to its original appearance following the 1983 earthquake.
Today, the building hosts a local tax office. Some of Caldas’ scientific contributions are highlighted along the courtyard walls.
Birthplace of Francisco Antonio de Ulloa
The birthplace of Francisco Antonio de Ulloa (Casa natal de Francisco Antonio de Ulloa) is located in the middle of the block on the north side of the street. It’s a simple one-story house with two entrances and two windows, built by Spanish official Juan Francisco Jiménez de Ulloa. His son, Francisco Antonio de Ulloa (1783–1816), was born there and later became a hero of Colombian independence. He was also a close friend of Francisco José de Caldas, and they were both executed together.
The Ulloa family continued to own the house for many generations. Manuel Caicedo Arroyo, who owned it in the 1930s, divided the property. The house was later heavily damaged by the 1983 earthquake, and the east side of the roof was demolished. Although much of the building continues to decay, you can still admire the main portal flanked by monolithic columns. Above the stone lintel is the coat of arms of the Ulloa family.
House of Doña Dionisia Mosquera
At the next corner is the House of Doña Dionisia Mosquera (Casa de doña Dionisia Mosquera). It was built in the mid-18th century by Pedro López Crespo de Bustamante and his wife Dionisia de Mosquera Bonilla. The corner of the house was the family’s personal and business space, while the side facing Calle 3 was used by servants and slaves. It features a central entrance, auxiliary entrances, and several windows fitted with traditional colonial grilles. Today, it serves as the headquarters of the local water works company.
The house is best known for a crime of passion that occurred there on January 29, 1770. Crespo was returning from a trip to the Antilles to stock up on goods for his store in Popayán. When he entered the east side of the building, a slave named Francisco Ficher struck him on the head, knocking him unconscious, while another slave, Pedro Fernandez de Borja, suffocated him with a ruana. Joaquim Perdomo, the butler, stabbed Crespo to make it look like an animal attack and left the body on the street corner.
Joseph Ignacio Ortega led an investigation ordered by the Royal Court of Quito. He discovered an affair between Dionisia de Mosquera Bonilla and Pedro Hermenegildo García de Lemos that resulted in her pregnancy. She was escaped to the town of Almaguer and give birth to Ana María García de Lemos Mosquera, who would become the mother of General José María Obando (1795–1861), a two-time President of Colombia. A plaque on the side of the building commemorates the event.
Palacio Nacional
Across the street to the east is the Palacio Nacional de Popayán. Officially named for Francisco de Paula Santander (1792–1840), it’s one of the largest buildings in the city. The north and east façades of the three-story structure feature windows on the first floor, balconies on the second, and arches on the third. A four-story tower rises from the northwest corner.
A small plaza on the northwest corner of the property contains a statue of General José María Obando. An arched colonnade lines the south side, while a stone portal provides access to the tower.
The site was originally an orchard owned by the Carmelite Monastery until the government expelled the monks in 1863 and seized their property. The land was acquired by the Ministry of Public Works (Ministerio de Obras Públicas) at the beginning of the 20th century to build the Palacio Nacional. Designed by architect Hernando Gonzales Varona in an eclectic Italian style, construction began around 1938 and was completed in 1941. The building serves as the headquarters of the Supreme Court of the city’s judicial branch.
Calle 4 in the Historic Center of Popayán
Heading a block south from Carrera 3, we’ll walk down Calle 4 from east to west. West of Parque Caldas, it’s called Calle Real de San Francisco, while to the east it’s known as Calle de Santo Domingo.
House of Miguel Arroyo Hurtado
At the northeast corner of Carrera 3, the House of Miguel Arroyo Hurtado (Casa de Miguel Arroyo Hurtado) features a row of windows on the first floor flanking a main portal with two Tuscan columns supporting a central balcony. 18 additional balconies line both sides of the building.
The property was originally owned by Bernardo Arboleda and was acquired by Miguel Arroyo Hurtado (1826–1892), the last governor of the State of Cauca, in the mid-19th century. He built the house with his wife, Margarita Diez-Colunje y Pombo (1838–1919). The house was rebuilt according to its original design after the 1983 earthquake and is considered one of the finest examples of Popayán-style architecture.
Church of Our Lady of Mount Carmel
Across the street to the west is the Church of Our Lady of Mount Carmel (Iglesia de Nuestra Señora del Carmen), designed by architect Gregorio Causí and completed in 1774. Some of the most prominent artists from Popayán were commissioned to decorate it. The church was part of the attached Carmelite Convent until the Carmelites were expelled from Colombia in 1863. It was heavily damaged during the 1983 earthquake and later restored to its 18th-century appearance.
The highlight of the single-nave church is the altarpiece, considered a masterpiece of Popayán art. It’s hand-carved and gilded and contains several statues. The one representing St. Teresa of Ávila was brought from Ávila, Spain. The five side altars are also worth a look, as is the gilded 18th-century pulpit. On the exterior, be sure to notice the decorative elements under the eaves.
Carmelite Convent
The former Convent of Our Lady of Mount Carmel of the Order of the Discalced Carmelites (Convento de Nuestra Señora del Monte Carmelo de la Orden de las Carmelitas Descalzas) comes next. The Carmelites established their mission in Popayán in 1720, and the convent was founded around 1729 by the Marchioness of San Miguel de la Vega, Doña Dionisia Pérez Manrique y Camberos (1668–1744).
The land on which the complex sits was owned by Pedro León de Mesa, who sold it to Francisco de Arboleda, who in turn donated it to the Discalced Carmelites. Construction began around 1730 under architect Gregorio Causí, but all work was destroyed by an earthquake on February 2, 1736. Causí then designed a new complex, with construction starting the same year. It featured living cells, a stable, storage rooms, a refectory, and an orchard, along with four inner courtyards. The main courtyard is surrounded by 40 octagonal columns supporting the second floor and has a stone fountain in the center. Balconies overlook Calle 4 and Carrera 4.
The Discalced Carmelites were expelled from Colombia in 1863, and the nuns fled to Ibarra, Ecuador, where they settled in 1876 and built a similar convent. That convent is considered the successor to the one in Popayán, which became a school in 1870. After the 1983 earthquake, the building was restored by the University of Cauca and converted into the Faculty of Human and Social Sciences (Facultad de Ciencias Humanas y Sociales).
Casa de los Pombo
Directly across the street to the south of the church is the Casa de los Pombo. It was originally built as a one-story house by Esteban de Pombo y Gómez, who arrived from Spain after 1736 and acquired the land in 1738. After his death in 1774, it’s believed the house operated as a school. His daughter, Petronila Agustina de Pombo y Ante, gave birth to Colombian independence hero Miguel de Pombo (1779–1816) in the house.
The corner of the house collapsed during the 1983 earthquake but was never rebuilt. The eastern wing was demolished, and a two-story house was built in its place. Only the western wing remains of the original construction, with a plaque commemorating inventor Carlos Albán (1844–1902).
Casa Rosada
Continuing west is the Casa Rosada, built by José Alonso de Velasco at the end of the 18th century. Also known as the Postgraduate House (Casa de Posgrados), it was designed by Marcelino Pérez de Arroyo y Valencia (1764–1833) and is one of the best-preserved colonial buildings in the historic center of Popayán.
The building features three portals and three interior courtyards, each surrounded by semicircular arches supported by square columns on both levels. Simón Bolívar’s stay in the house from January 26 to March 8, 1822, is commemorated with a plaque. He gave a speech from the main balcony thanking locals for their warm welcome.
After Colombian independence, the house was acquired by Francisco José Chaux Paredes and his wife, Adelaida Rengifo Ferrer. It was later subdivided for another family member. The 1983 earthquake caused significant damage, and the University of Cauca undertook restoration. It now houses the university’s graphic design program.
Archdiocesan Museum of Religious Art
A block west towards Parque Caldas, you’ll find the Archdiocesan Museum of Religious Art (Museo Arquidiocesano de Arte Religioso) on the north side of the street. Its collection spans the 16th through 20th centuries and includes paintings and carvings from the Quito school, processionals, silverware, liturgical items, furniture, ornaments, and more. It’s open daily except Sundays. Admission, including an optional guided tour, is COP$8,000 per person (as of May 2025).
The museum was founded on October 10, 1972, by Monsignor Miguel Ángel Arce Vivas (1904–1987) and opened to the public on September 21, 1979. Its purpose is to protect colonial art belonging to the Archdiocese of Popayán and affiliated churches, parishes, and convents. After the 1983 earthquake, works at risk of being stolen by looters were added to the collection.
The museum occupies the Arboleda Family House (Casa de la Familia Arboleda), completed around 1786 by architect Marcelino Pérez de Arroyo y Valencia (1764–1833). It features two cobblestone courtyards, each surrounded by arched porticoes on both floors.
Collection of the Archdiocesan Museum of Religious Art
On the ground floor, the exhibit explains the origins of the museum and displays vestments worn by Monsignors Miguel Ángel Arce Vivas and Samuel Silverio Buitrago (1930–1990), along with background on the 18th-century craftsmen who created several pieces on display.
Upstairs, several Quito school paintings and impressive carvings are on display.
In Room 205 is a stunning painting of the Last Supper, St. Francis of Assisi, and St. Peter of Alcántara, measuring 585 × 213 centimeters (19.2 × 7 feet). It originally hung in the College of Missions of St. Francis of Assisi (Colegio de Misiones de San Francisco de Asís) in Popayán from 1780 to 1863. It’s accompanied by paintings of the Twelve Apostles depicted with symbols of their martyrdom.
The final rooms contain more paintings.
Church of Santo Domingo
The Church of Santo Domingo (Iglesia de Santo Domingo), officially the Church of Our Lady of the Rosary of the Dominican Order (Iglesia de Nuestra Señora del Rosario de la Orden de los Predicadores), stands across the street at the corner of Calle 4 and Carrera 5. Originally part of the Dominican monastery to the south, the first church was a simple chapel built in 1552. It was destroyed in an earthquake in 1564 and reconstructed, along with a cloister completed in 1575.
The friars built the second church that was stronger and more elaborate between 1606 and 1683, but it was completely destroyed by an earthquake on February 2, 1736. Gregorio Causí, Antonio García, and Simon Schenheer collaborated on a new complex, with work beginning in 1740. The Arboleda family contributed greatly to the construction and decoration.
After the Dominicans were expelled from Colombia in 1863, the church became a parish under the jurisdiction of the Diocese of Popayán. The bell tower collapsed during an earthquake in the late 19th century and was rebuilt by architect Adolfo Dueñas, with work completed in 1885. The church survived the 1983 earthquake.
Features of the Church of Santo Domingo
The ornate portal, carved around 1741, is the most striking feature of the church. The stone water basin in front once stood at the center of Parque Caldas before it was relocated to the town of Timbío in 1910. It was later brought back to Popayán and placed in its current location.
The nave is lined with chapels on both sides and filled with some of the finest examples of sculptures from the Popayán and Quito schools. The main altar features a Neoclassical altarpiece with four Corinthian columns. In the central niche is a sculpture of Our Lady of the Rosary, brought from Spain and considered the oldest image still venerated in Popayán. The Neoclassical pulpit was designed by Francisco José de Caldas (1768–1816) and gilded and painted in 1825 by José Caicedo.
University of Cauca Administrative Headquarters
Continuing west, on the north side of the street are the administrative headquarters of the University of Cauca. Created by decree on April 24, 1827, it’s one of the oldest and most prestigious public universities in Colombia. It counts 17 Colombian presidents among its alumni, and preserves a valuable collection of colonial and republican documents. The headquarters are in a historic colonial building, likely dating to the 18th century.
Birthplace of Guillermo Valencia
After passing Parque Caldas, the first building on the right is the birthplace of poet and politician Guillermo Valencia (1873–1943). The house was originally built as a one-story residence by Fr. Agustín de Sandoval near the end of the 18th century. Valencia’s parents, Joaquín Valencia Quijano and Adelaida Castillo Silva, acquired it in the late 19th century. The building was remodeled in 1979, when a second story was added, which also helped prevent damage during the 1983 earthquake. A plaque commemorates Valencia’s birth.
Club Popayán
Attached is Club Popayán. Commissioned by Andrés Pérez de Arroyo and designed by his brother, Marcelino Pérez de Arroyo y Valencia, it was originally built as a residence near the end of the 18th century. After its completion, it passed to Gabriela Pérez de Arroyo. President Marco Fidel Suárez stayed in the house in 1920 on his way to meet the president of Ecuador.
Club Popayán acquired the property in 1947 and, without altering its unique design, remodeled and expanded it for use as a social club. The two-story building has five balconies and a Neoclassical portal. A vestibule connects to two inner courtyards surrounded by arcades.
House of Don Cristóbal Manuel de Mosquera y Figueroa
At Carrera 8 you’ll find the House of Don Cristóbal Manuel de Mosquera y Figueroa (Casa de don Cristóbal Manuel de Mosquera y Figueroa). It was built by Cristóbal Manuel de Mosquera y Figueroa in the mid-18th century and was the birthplace and residence of several important members of the Mosquera y Figueroa family.
The building was demolished and rebuilt after the 1983 earthquake, with a few modifications to its original design. The two-story structure features a portal with stone columns and the crest of the Mosquera y Figueroa family. It opens to a central courtyard.
Central Mortgage Bank
The former headquarters of the Central Mortgage Bank (Casa del Banco Central Hipotecario) stands at the northeast corner of Calle 4 and Carrera 9. Now a registry office, it was built in 1936 in the Eclectic style. The two-story building has an entrance portal on Calle 4 flanked by two pairs of columns, with a balcony above.
A 17th-century mansion built by Francisco Hurtado del Águila and his sister María Teresa once stood on the site. It was destroyed by the earthquake of 1736 and later rebuilt with a few modifications to its original design. Shops occupied the first floor, with the residence upstairs. The property was acquired by Governor José Ignacio Ortega in the 18th century and remained there until it was demolished to make way for the current building.
Church of San Francisco
Across the street to the west is the Church of San Francisco (Iglesia de San Francisco), which is covered in another post. It’s the biggest church in Popayán and one of the best examples of Baroque architecture in Colombia.
House of Don Lorenzo de Paz Maldonado
Directly south is the House of Don Lorenzo de Paz Maldonado (Casa de don Lorenzo de Paz Maldonado), one of the oldest houses in the historic center of Popayán, dating back to the 16th century. It was built by the encomendero of Usenda, Lorenzo de Paz Maldonado (1526–?), and his wife Catalina de Belalcázar (c. 1556–1591), granddaughter of Spanish conquistador and founder of Popayán, Sebastián de Belalcázar (1480–1551). The one-story building features a portal with stone block columns and Tuscan capitals, three windows, and an interior courtyard. It’s now a public registry office.
The building is famous for a crime of passion that occurred on October 11, 1591. After 15 years of marriage, Maldonado discovered Belalcázar with her lover, Francisco García de Tobar. Maldonado murdered Belalcázar in the kitchen while García managed to escape to the hallway, where he was eventually caught and killed. It was a major scandal that became the talk of the town. Maldonado was brought to trial but escaped execution thanks to his wealth. He later married Catalina de Zúñiga Mosquera y Velasco (1568–?), daughter of conquistador Francisco de Mosquera y Figueroa (1529–1583), in 1602.
Calle 5 in the Historic Center of Popayán
Walking a block south down Carrera 3 will take you to Calle 5 in the historic center of Popayán. It’s known as Calle del Seminario for the three blocks west of the plaza, and Calle Real de las Catedrales and Calle de la Ermita to the east. Follow along from west to east.
Negret House Museum
On the west side of Calle 5 at Carrera 3 is the Negret House Museum (Casa Museo Negret), featuring modern art by Popayán-born artist Édgar Negret Dueñas (1920–2012). Admission is free (as of March 2024) and it’s open daily.
The one-story house has two cobblestone patios with a private water supply. It was built in the 18th century at what was then the westernmost point of the city. The house was acquired by Rafael Negret, and his son Édgar spent a few years of his life there.
The Popayán Contemporary Art Foundation (Fundación de Arte Contemporáneo de Popayán) purchased the building before it was destroyed during the 1983 earthquake. It was reconstructed and repurposed as the Ibero-American Museum of Modern Art (Museo Iberoamericano de Arte Moderno) in tribute to Negret.
Guillermo León Valencia House Museum
On the opposite corner is the Guillermo León Valencia House Museum (Casa Museo Guillermo León Valencia). It’s open daily except Mondays and admission is free (as of August 2024). It was the home of Guillermo León Valencia (1909–1971), who was president of Colombia from 1962 to 1966.
The home, built in the middle of the 18th century, has two cobblestone patios. It was acquired by the future president in the middle of the 20th century. A couple of rooms are dedicated to his life, and he was reinterred in one of the patios in 2008.
House of Don Manuel Mallo
The next building on the right is the House of Don Manuel Mallo (Casa de Don Manuel Mallo). This two-story 18th-century house has an impressive stone portal with floral motifs and two internal courtyards. It’s best known as the residence of Manuel Mallo, a close friend of Simón Bolívar and one of the lovers of Spanish Queen Maria Luisa of Parma, the wife of King Carlos IV.
In the early 20th century, the building housed the Departmental Comptrollership (Contraloría Departamental del Cauca). It was restored in 1985 after suffering serious damage during the 1983 earthquake and now holds archives for the Government of Cauca.
House of Tomás Figueredo
Across the street to the south is the House of Tomás Figueredo (Casa del Avecindado Tomás Figueredo). According to official records, wealthy merchant Tomás Figueredo, who settled in Popayán in 1669, purchased the lot in 1694 from Gregorio Codurgo. He constructed the house with two interior courtyards and lived on the second floor, while servants lived on the first.
The late-17th-century house is important because it’s one of the few two-story buildings to survive the 1736 earthquake and is a pure example of Spanish Colonial style. It also withstood the 1983 earthquake with only minor damage to the roof and walls, which were quickly repaired. The building now functions as a high school, Colegio Los Alcázeres.
House of the Regent
Continuing east, at the corner of Calle 5 and Carrera 9, is the House of the Regent (Casa del Regente). It was built near the end of the 18th century for Joaquín de Mosquera y Figueroa (1748–1830), who was appointed regent to the Spanish Crown in 1812.
The building was designed by Marcelino Pérez de Arroyo y Valencia (1764–1833) and features two brick portals supporting balconies. Inside are two courtyards surrounded by semicircular arches on both levels.
During the 20th century, the building housed the Champagnat School, commemorated by a plaque on the façade. It suffered only minor damage in the 1983 earthquake.
Royal Seminary of St. Francis of Assisi
On the north side of the street is the Royal Seminary of St. Francis of Assisi (Real Seminario San Francisco de Asís). It was one of the most prestigious educational institutions of its time and among the most important in the entire Viceroyalty of Nueva Granada. Founded around 1642 by the Jesuits as a seminary to educate priests and missionaries for the evangelization of South America, it later began admitting the sons of aristocratic families — many of whom went on to become pivotal figures in the history of the country and continent.
After the expulsion of the Jesuits in 1767, the school closed temporarily until the Dominicans assumed control. The cloister was converted into an army barracks in 1811 during the Colombian War of Independence and remained in military use until 1819.
The Dominicans were expelled around 1827 and many of the seminary’s assets were transferred to the newly founded University of Cauca. The diocese later regained the building through the efforts of Bishop Salvador Jiménez de Enciso (1765–1841), who reopened the school for both seminarians and secular students.
The Royal Seminary continued to operate at this location until around 1942, when it moved to the north side of the city, where it remains today. The cloister became the Royal College of St. Francis of Assisi (Real Colegio San Francisco de Asís) in 1962 and was acquired by the University Foundation of Popayán (Fundación Universitaria de Popayán) in 1982. The entire complex was declared a National Monument of Colombia on December 30, 1959.
Church of San José
At the northwest corner of Calle 5 and Carrera 8 is the Church of San José (Iglesia de San José), also known as the Church of the Society of Jesus (Iglesia de la Compañía de Jesús). The original church was built by the Jesuits in 1640 and later replaced by another constructed between 1669 and 1702. After the second church was destroyed in the earthquake of February 2, 1736, they commissioned German architect Simon Schenherr to design the current Baroque church, with reconstruction beginning the same year. When the Jesuits were expelled in 1767, only one tower had been completed.
The Church of San José served as the city’s vice-cathedral after the demolition of the Cathedral of Popayán in 1785. The 1983 earthquake caused extensive damage to the façade and toppled the west tower. The Redemptorists took over in the early 20th century, and it has been administered by the Eudists since 2006.
Features of the Church of San José
The church is laid out on a Latin cross plan and features a central nave with five chapels on each side, covered by half barrel vaults. It once housed a rich collection of gold and silver works that were expropriated by revolutionary forces under Antonio Nariño (1760–1823) in 1813–1814. Still, several impressive sculptures and furnishings from the Quito school and other locations remain. The Neo-Gothic pulpit is attached to the southwest pillar.
The Neoclassical altarpiece of the main altar, made by architect Adolfo Dueñas at the end of the 19th century, contrasts with the Baroque architecture of the church. It consists of a circular marble temple with Corinthian columns and an image of St. Joseph holding the baby Jesus in his arms. Below is a crucified Christ, with paintings of the Sacred Heart of Jesus to the left and the Sacred Heart of Mary to the right, both framed in semicircular arches. The medallion on the left shows a heart between a cross and branch, while the one on the right shows a vase above two branches, possibly representing the Eucharist.
Casa del Encomendero
Across the street to the south is the Casa del Encomendero. It was built in the mid-18th century by Francisco Hurtado del Águila, the Encomendero of Chapa and Julumito. Over the years, it hosted important guests such as Francisco José de Caldas, and by the end of the 19th century it belonged to Dr. José Antonio Arroyo, father of the former president of Ecuador, Carlos Arroyo del Río (1893–1969). The building was later sold to Julio Chaux Rengifo.
The building was repaired after the 1983 earthquake and opened the following year as Hotel La Plazuela. It features a brick portal with two Tuscan columns and a central balcony above. Inside is a patio surrounded by an arched colonnade on both floors, with a stone fountain in the center.
House of Journalism
The House of Journalism (Casa del Periodismo) stands at the northeast corner of Calle 5 and Carrera 8. Built at the beginning of the 19th century, the corner shop is where José Antonio Pérez Arroyo and Manuel María Quijano founded the city’s first newspaper in 1813 — La Aurora de Popayán. They used printing presses ordered by the government that arrived in 1811.
Based on the Neoclassical elements, the architect is believed to be Andrés Marcelino Pérez de Arroyo y Valencia (1764–1833). The house was commissioned by Paula Valencia, who had inherited the property. She ordered a series of renovations, and the building wasn’t completed until 1827. The two-story building features a portal along Calle 5 with two Tuscan columns. It suffered slight damage in the 1983 earthquake.
Church of the Incarnation
A block east of Parque Caldas, at the corner of Calle 5 and Carrera 5, is the Church of the Incarnation (Iglesia de la Encarnación), which is covered in another post. It features some of the finest religious artwork in the city.
House of the Cradle of Santo Ecce Homo
Across the street to the north is the House of the Cradle of Santo Ecce Homo (Casa “Cuna del Santo Ecce Homo”). This massive two-story building, lined with balconies fitted with wrought iron grilles, was originally built at the end of the 17th century by Juan Antonio de Velasco (c. 1651–c. 1709). A freed slave who rose to become a powerful merchant, he later married Gerónima de Velasco y Noguera.
The couple brought an image of Ecce Homo from Pasto and place it in their personal oratory, giving the house its name. The image remained there until 1681, when it was first used in Holy Week processions — a tradition that continues today. In 1717, the image was transferred to the Chapel of Bethlehem on the east side of town.
After the earthquake of 1736, the building was renovated by Velasco’s children, and the stone portal was completed in 1775. It was restored again after the 1983 earthquake and later converted into the city’s tourism office.
Convent of St. Sebastian Martyr of the Dominican Order
Occupying almost an entire block between Calles 5 and 4 and Carreras 5 and 4A is the Convent of St. Sebastian Martyr of the Dominican Order (Convento de San Sebastián Mártir de la Orden de los Predicadores). Known simply as the Cloister of Santo Domingo (Claustro de Santo Domingo), it was one of the largest monastic complexes in the city, rivaled only by the Franciscan monastery.
The Dominicans arrived in Popayán before 1552, building one simple hut for worship and another for housing. Both collapsed in an earthquake in 1564, and a stronger complex was completed in 1575.
After an earthquake destroyed the convent on February 2, 1736, Gregorio Causí, Antonio García, and Simon Schenheer collaborated to build the current one, with work beginning in 1740. It features two stories built on thick masonry walls and six interior courtyards. It also included a garden in the southwest corner where the friars cultivated crops. The main entrance is next to the Church of Santo Domingo off Calle 4.
The Dominicans were expelled from Colombia in 1826, and the cloister was abandoned the following year. On October 2, 1827, Simón Bolívar issued a decree transferring the property to the newly-founded University of Cauca. While the university’s headquarters have moved to another nearby building, the complex now houses the Faculty of Law. It withstood the earthquake of 1983 with only minor damage.
Auditorium of the University of Cauca
The Auditorium of the University of Cauca (Paraninfo de la Universidad del Cauca), dedicated to Francisco José de Caldas, breaks the façade of the Dominican convent. Construction began in 1892 and was completed on April 23, 1916. The building features a Neoclassical and Eclectic façade designed by Italian architect Luis Chiappini and inspired by the auditorium of the University of Zaragoza in Spain.
Inside, on the back wall, is The Apotheosis of Popayán (La Apoteosis de Popayán) painted by Efraím Martínez (1898–1956) between 1935 and 1955. It’s 6 meters (19.84 feet) high and 9 meters (29.75 feet) long and was inspired by poems written by Guillermo Valencia.
Headquarters of the Permanent Pro Holy Week Board of Popayán
Almost directly across the street to the south is the Headquarters of the Permanent Pro Holy Week Board of Popayán (Sede de la Junta Permanente Pro Semana Santa de Popayán). The single-story Spanish Colonial-style mansion dates to the 19th century, likely after the earthquake of November 16, 1827. It features a stone portal flanked by Tuscan capitals supporting a Neoclassical entablature and an interior courtyard with a water fountain.
The house is the headquarters of the Permanent Pro Holy Week Board of Popayán, founded in 1937 by Guillermo Valencia (1873–1943) and ratified in 1939 to oversee, adapt, improve, and protect the city’s Holy Week processions — so important that UNESCO declared it Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity on September 30, 2009.
Casa Jorge Isaacs
Next door is Casa Jorge Isaacs, which serves as the Casa de la Cultura del Cauca (Cauca House of Culture). The 17th-century colonial structure, likely built before the earthquake of 1736, has a single entrance with four wooden windows covered by grilles and three internal courtyards. The house takes its name from writer Jorge Isaacs (1837–1895), who lived here with his family in 1870 while working as a teacher in Popayán.
Administrative Headquarters of the Autonomous University of Cauca
The Autonomous University of Cauca (Corporación Universitaria Autónoma del Cauca) has its administrative headquarters a block east. It was founded as a technical college in 1979 and officially recognized by the Colombian Ministry of National Education in 1984. The school was elevated to a university on April 7, 2003, and offers a variety of undergraduate and postgraduate programs.
House of Don Toribio Maya
After passing Carrera 3, you’ll come to the House of Don Toribio Maya (Casa de Don Toribio Maya). Toribio Maya Sarmiento (1848–1930), better known as the Apostle of Charity (El Apóstol de la Caridad), was known for his piety and service, providing food, medicine, and supplies to the less fortunate. He died in the house on August 31, 1930 — an event marked by a plaque on the façade — and is recognized as a Servant of God by the Catholic Church.
The Hermitage of Jesus of Nazareth
The Hermitage of Jesus of Nazareth (La Ermita de Jesús Nazareno) is just past the house. Officially the Hermitage of Jesus of Nazareth, St. Barbara, and St. Catherine of Alexandria (La Ermita de Jesús Nazareno, Santa Bárbara y Santa Catalina de Alejandría), it’s considered the oldest surviving Catholic temple in Popayán.
The chapel was built between 1612 and 1617 and was originally dedicated to Saints Barbara and Catherine of Alexandria. It was rededicated in 1660 to include Jesus of Nazareth.
The Hermitage belonged to the poorest citizens of Popayán and stood outside the colonial city limits. Benefactor Lorenzo de Mendoza and his wife María de León wanted it elevated to a parish and hoped to build a hospital next door, but their request was rejected by royal decree on May 1, 1687.
After 1786, the chapel stood next to the city’s first cemetery, intended for the burials of the indigenous and the poor. It also functioned as a pantheon until January 27, 1845, when the Popayán Central Cemetery (Cementerio Central de Popayán) opened on the far west side of the city.
Although simple compared to other churches in Popayán, the Hermitage houses a handful of beautiful carvings, including the gilded 17th-century pulpit and several impressive 18th-century works from the Quito school.
The chapel on the south side, dedicated to Christ the King, was made by Luis Carlos Valencia Guevara in 1937. It contains a crucifix flanked by Our Lady of Sorrows and St. John the Apostle, possibly brought from Sevilla, Spain, in the 16th century.
The cobblestone street in front of the church is one of the last in the city, and the view down Calle 5 is one of its most picturesque scenes.
Other Attractions in the Historic Center of Popayán
You’ll find a couple points of interest in the historic center of Popayán that aren’t on Parque Caldas or along the three main streets I’ve listed above.
Pantheon of the Heroes of Popayán
Just north of Parque Caldas along Calle del Reloj (Carrera 7) is the Pantheon of the Heroes of Popayán (Panteón de los Próceres de Popayán), a funerary monument containing the remains of many of the city’s most important figures. Tickets are COP$10,000 for adults and COP$5,000 for children and include admission to the Natural History Museum and Mosquera House Museum (as of December 2025). It’s open daily except Mondays.
The building was constructed on the site of a colonial house that was demolished in the 1920s. It opened in 1928 and initially served as the headquarters for the Departmental Assembly of Cauca. The assembly quickly outgrew the space and moved out in 1940.
Antonio José Lemos Guzmán (1901–1967), then rector of the University of Cauca and later mayor of Popayán and governor of Caldas, proposed converting the building into a pantheon. The university acquired the building and on October 15, 1940, the remains of several local heroes were relocated there from different parts of the country. The building was heavily damaged in the 1983 earthquake, with restoration taking place between 1985 and 1997.
The funerary urns inside the Pantheon belong to presidents, politicians, generals, and heroes of Colombian independence. Among the most important are Francisco José de Caldas (1768–1816); José Hilario López (1798–1869), the signer of the declaration ending slavery in Colombia in 1851; and general and four-term president Tomás Cipriano de Mosquera (1798–1878). In the main room is a bust of Simón Bolívar in front of a crucifix.
Plaza Colonial
Across the street is Plaza Colonial. When it opened in 2005, it became the first shopping mall in Popayán. The architects repurposed an older building and preserved its colonial character so it blend in with the surrounding historic architecture.
Puente del Humilladero
The Puente del Humilladero, officially the Puente de Bolívar (Bolívar Bridge), is an arched bridge at Carrera 6 and Calle 2 on the northern edge of the historic center of Popayán. It was designed by Friar Serafín Barbetti, a Franciscan monk from Italy. The first stone was laid on September 16, 1868, and the bridge opened on July 31, 1873.
The bridge made it easier to reach the city center from the Bolívar neighborhood to the north. It was closed to vehicle traffic in the mid-20th century and has since become an important cultural and tourist attraction.
The bridge has 12 arches, with the two central arches each measuring 12 meters (39.3 feet) wide and 9 meters (29.5 feet) high. It’s 240 meters (787.4 feet) long and 5.26 meters (17.25 feet) wide.
At the south end, the street is lined with several booths selling souvenirs and local handicrafts.
Puente de la Custodia
Next to the Puente del Humilladero is the tiny Puente de la Custodia. It opened in 1713 to allow priests to reach the sick in the poorer northern suburbs. For 160 years, until the Puente del Humilladero was built, it was the only entry and exit point on the north side of the city. It was almost destroyed by a flood in 1933 and rebuilt in 1940.
In an important historic moment, troops commanded by Simón Bolívar crossed the bridge after liberating the city during the struggle for Colombian independence.
House of Dr. Federico Carlos Lehmann Valencia
A few blocks east, at Calle 2 and Carrera 3, is the House of Dr. Federico Carlos Lehmann Valencia (Casa del Dr. Federico Carlos Lehmann Valencia). The single-story home sits in an area that was once the edge of the city center, where wealthy families moved during the early 20th century. It’s best known as the home of Federico Carlos Lehmann Valencia (1914–1974), a biologist who was instrumental in the creation of protected areas across Colombia, including Los Nevados National Park and Farallones de Cali National Park.
Lehmann, who may have been born in the house, is commemorated in the scientific name of one species of lizard, Alopoglossus lehmanni, and three species of frogs: Eleutherodactylus lehmanvalenciae (junior synonym of Pristimantis moro), Hyloxalus lehmanni, and Oophaga lehmanni (Lehmann’s poison frog). He’s also the grandson of German botanist Friedrich Carl Lehmann (1850–1903) and the great-grandson of General Tomás Cipriano de Mosquera (1798–1878).
Church of San Agustín
The Church of San Agustín (Iglesia de San Agustín), which is covered in another post, is two blocks south of Parque Caldas at Carrera 6 and Calle 7. It’s a fine example of Late Baroque architecture.
Chapel of Bethlehem
Finally, on a hill on the east end of town is the Chapel of Bethlehem (Capilla de Belén), officially the Church of Our Lady of Bethlehem of Popayán (Iglesia de Nuestra Señora de Belén de Popayán).
To reach the chapel, there are a series of stone steps. We decided to take a taxi because locals told us it might not be safe to walk up. Once at the top, you’ll be treated to great views of Popayán.
The interior of the chapel features a simple Neoclassical altarpiece. It houses a 17th-century image of Ecce Homo brought from Pasto and installed in 1717.
History of the Chapel of Bethlehem
In the middle of the 17th century, there was nothing atop the hill except a small hut. During the Christmas season, locals would build a manger there. Juan Antonio de Velasco (c. 1651–c. 1709), a freed slave who became very wealthy, led a group of nobles to purchase the site to build a sanctuary. Bishop Cristóbal Bernaldo de Quirós (1618–1684) granted the group the necessary permits. Work began on September 1, 1681, and was completed in 1689. The chapel was given to the Carmelites and a 17th-century image of Our Lady of Bethlehem was brought from Quito.
Christmas celebrations started taking place at the chapel in 1689, but by 1717 they had become so popular that the decision was made to expand it. Francisco Beltrán de la Torre designed and funded the project, giving the chapel its current Greek cross plan with a single nave. Two altars were added to the right side, both featuring paintings by José María Veintemilla. The image of Ecce Homo from Pasto, once owned by Juan Antonio de Velasco, was also donated to the chapel that year.
In 1787, the chapel collapsed in an earthquake. It was rebuilt by José Beltrán, the son of Francisco Beltrán. In 1863, the Carmelites were expelled from Colombia, and the chapel collapsed again in another earthquake in 1885. It was rebuilt by Adolfo Dueñas (1845–1906), who added a dome and two towers at the entrance.
On February 9, 1967, another earthquake caused heavy damage to the chapel. It was redesigned by architect Guillermo Collazos Rubio, who added a gabled roof with an arch at the entrance and returned it to a Colonial appearance. Eight stained glass windows were added in 2017 to commemorate the 300th anniversary of the installation of the image of Santo Ecce Homo.
Legend of the Stone Cross
In 1789, local sculptor Miguel Aguilón added the large stone cross near the entrance. It stands on a base decorated with reliefs of the Sacred Heart of Jesus on all four sides.
On February 4, 1877, an armed group of liberals sacked the building and acted violently toward Bishop Carlos Bermúdez Pinzón. As he was being forcibly removed from the property, he looked at the cross and proclaimed:
I curse this city, cradle of masons and enemies of God… not even the dust of this place took me… The day the cross of the church of Bethlehem falls, the dead will come out of their graves and Popayán will end.
Bermúdez was later exiled to Chile, but his words were not forgotten. On March 31, 1983, during the violent earthquake that destroyed much of the city, the cross collapsed except for a small section. Locals believed that if it had collapsed completely, the city would cease to exist.
