Last updated on .
Popayán is one of the most well-preserved colonial cities in all of Latin America and known for its religious traditions and unique local cuisine. It’s located in the Cauca department of Colombia.
Introduction to Popayán
Popayán, known as the White City (La Ciudad Blanca) for its whitewashed historic colonial city center, was occupied by Spanish troops under Captain Juan de Ampudia (d. 1541) on December 24, 1536. The city was founded on January 13, 1537, by Spanish conquistador Sebastián de Belalcázar (c. 1490-1551). The name comes from Pop-Pioyá-n, which is what the Aztec interpreters understood when asking the local indigenous people the name of the lands.
After 1550, cattle farms popped up around the city and there was a mining and commercial boom. This led to the arrival of Spanish nobles and the establishment of a mint in 1748. The city produced gold and silver coins for the Spanish Crown until 1819 and continued to produce coins for the Republic of Colombia after 1826. It also became an important center for religious art.
Popayán, officially Asunción de Popayán, was an important city due to its strategic location between Quito and Cartagena. It served as a transfer point for gold and other valuables going to Cartagena for shipment to Spain.
The city contributed greatly to the cause of Colombian independence and produced several powerful politicians in the 19th century. The foundation of the University of Cauca (Universidad del Cauca) in 1827 made it an important educational center as well.
An economic decline began in 1851 after the abolition of slavery in Colombia, decreed by President José Hilario López (1798-1869), who was from the city. Despite this, Popayán continued to produce important people in the fields of politics, journalism, religion, the military, literature, the arts, and philosophy. More recently, an earthquake leveled the city on March 31, 1983, and it took several years to rebuild.
Cultural Contributions of Popayán
Popayán has been recognized by UNESCO for its annual Holy Week processions as an Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity and in 2005 as a City of Gastronomy. It has a unique local cuisine mixing Spanish and indigenous culinary traditions and hosts the National Gastronomy Congress every September. Several restaurants in town offer local delicacies along with other Colombian and international cuisine.
Getting to Popayán
It’s easy to get to Popayán by bus from Cali. Frequent buses depart from the Cali bus terminal and make the trip in anywhere from 2 ½ to 3 hours. Heading south, buses go to Pasto (6 hours) and Ipiales (8-9 hours) for crossing the border into Ecuador. Guillermo León Valencia Airport (PPN / Aeropuerto Guillermo León Valencia) has service from Bogotá (as of August 2025).
Getting Around Popayán
Getting around Popayán is possible on foot in the historic city center. It’s easily walkable and mostly flat. If you’re arriving by bus, however, you’ll want to take a taxi as it’s quite far.
Where to Stay in Popayán
There are plenty of options for all budgets, but we opted for a simple two-star hotel for our stay.
Hotel Popayán Inn
We stayed at Hotel Popayán Inn, just a few blocks from the heart of the historic city center. This budget hotel is clean and has a good location. The negatives are the thin walls and staff. While staff was pleasant and friendly, we were annoyed that we had to wait anywhere between 5 and 15 minutes to either be let in or out of the hotel. Even after ringing the bell or shouting several times, we received no response. It was frustrating.
Where to Eat in Popayán
As I mentioned earlier, Popayán is a UNESCO City of Gastronomy with a unique local cuisine mixing Spanish and indigenous culinary traditions. In addition to local specialties, we found a good variety of Colombian and international restaurants.
Mora Castilla
As a UNESCO City of Gastronomy, you can’t visit Popayán without trying the cuisine. The locals sent us to Mora Castilla, a small and simple restaurant in the historic city center that many regard as the best place to sample payanés delicacies. We arrived at 10am sharp just as the doors were opening. We had to wait a few minutes for the owner to prep, but he was very friendly and excited about our eagerness to try these special dishes.
We started with tamales de pipián, which are made with cornmeal and potato and served with a spicy peanut sauce, similar to what you would find in Thai cooking. They were accompanied by salpicón payanés, a frozen concoction of mora (blackberries) with some lulo and guanabana mixed in. Both were delicious.
Next came empanadas de pipián. These tiny empanadas, filled with potatoes, came 10 to an order and served with the same spicy peanut sauce. Again, excellent.
Finally, we finished off by sampling carantantas. They’re like very thin corn tortillas and were served with hogao, a Colombian sauce made with sautéed tomatoes, onions, and garlic. It wasn’t my favorite part of the meal but they were interesting to try.
Mora Castilla is highly recommended to anyone visiting Popayán. It was a pleasure to eat these tasty treats, but the owner made the experience much more enjoyable with his explanations and enthusiasm.
Hotel Camino Real
The restaurant at Hotel Camino Real should be at the top of your list while visiting Popayán. They served one of the best meals I’ve eaten in Colombia. This award-winning restaurant offers excellent French and Colombian dishes in an elegant setting. Reservations are recommended.
Our table was set in an intimate side room off the main dining room and we were promptly attended to. The menu has some intriguing choices, but Marisol and I both decided for the six-course dinner menus. Marisol had Menu 1 and I had Menu 2.
Starters
The meal started off with a selection of cheeses and bread. Blue cheese, gouda, and brie were the cheeses of the day. Next came the first dishes. Marisol’s was ravioli de langostino (shrimp ravioli) and mine was langostinos a la Gabardina (breaded shrimp). I didn’t care too much for mine but the raviolis were delicious.
Next came nido de espárragos con vinagreta (asparagus spears in vinaigrette) for Marisol and ceviche de corvina (sea bass) for me. Both dishes were good but we were happier with the ceviche. A granizado de mora (iced blackberries) came after these dishes to help clean our palates.
Main Course
For the main course, I had steak a la pimienta negra (black pepper steak) and Marisol had the solomillo en reducción de vino tinto (tenderloin in red wine reduction). Both came accompanied by sautéed vegetables and mashed potatoes. The meat was cooked perfectly and had an incredible flavor, and the sides were the perfect complement.
Dessert
Finally, we were able to choose any one of the desserts off the menu. I opted for the pie de manzana y nueces con helado (apple and nut pie with ice cream) and Marisol had the Eduardo Santos (a fruit cassata). My pie was disappointing because it was a little too overcooked but the Eduardo Santos was great.
Restaurante Italiano
We ate an amazing lunch at Restaurante Italiano, an Italian restaurant and pizzeria run by a Swiss woman. It’s located near the Church of San Francisco. I had spaghetti a la puttanesca and Marisol had the spaghetti con camarones. Everything was perfect except for the agonizingly slow service. We had to wait about 30 minutes to get drinks and 45 minutes before our meals came. There were no empty tables when we arrived, but the crowd thinned out as we waited for our meals. Food is priced reasonably.
Terra Inca
Near the bus terminal in the modern part of Popayán is Terra Inca. This Peruvian restaurant serves up tasty ceviche, causa limeña, and grilled octopus. We also shared a lomo saltado. The price was reasonable according to the quality. A taxi is necessary if coming from the city center.
El Monito (Permanently Closed)
We had a simple yet excellent breakfast at a tiny little place called El Monito in the historic city center. We both had eggs and hot chocolate for a decent price.
Parque Caldas
Parque Caldas is the focal point of the White City. This huge plaza is home to Popayán’s most important religious and government buildings. It was laid out in 1537 and was initially a market square and the site of public executions until 1766.
Parque Caldas was beautified in 1910 with the planting of trees and the addition of a monument. It was pedestrianized starting in April 2009 on a proposal by architect Lorenzo Castro. Today, it’s a pleasant place to spend time. Street vendors are scattered throughout.
Monument to Francisco José de Caldas
In the center of Parque Caldas is a monument to Francisco José de Caldas (1768-1816), a national hero of Colombia originally from Popayán. It was created by French sculptor Raoul Verlet (1857-1923).
Cathedral of Popayán
The Cathedral of Popayán (Catedral de Popayán), officially the Metropolitan Cathedral Basilica of Our Lady of the Assumption (Catedral Basílica Metropolitana de Nuestra Señora de la Asunción), is on the south side of Parque Caldas. The Diocese of Popayán was established on August 22, 1546, by Pope Paul III and elevated to an Archdiocese on June 20, 1900, by Pope Leo XIII. The first bishop was Juan del Valle (c. 1500-1563).
The first cathedral was a simple construction with a straw roof. It was located a few blocks east and replaced with a brick structure at the site of the present cathedral. Construction began on December 17, 1594, and wasn’t completed until 1682. It was damaged by an earthquake on February 2, 1736, and was repaired, but was eventually demolished in 1785.
The current cathedral was designed by architect Marcelino Pérez de Arroyo (1764-1833) and the first stone was laid on May 30, 1819. Construction was halted a couple months later because of the Battle of Boyacá and a significant decrease in funding. Work resumed on August 15, 1856, 1859 and it was completed on June 12, 1906. An organ from Paris was installed and inaugurated on December 12, 1909. Pope Pius XII elevated the cathedral to a Minor Basilica on April 25, 1953.
On March 31, 1983, at 8:15am, a devastating earthquake struck Popayán, collapsing the dome and destroying the organ. 25% of all deaths in the city occurred at the cathedral, where worshippers were celebrating Holy Thursday. The dome was reconstructed according to its original design. Pope John Paul II visited in 1986.
Archbishop’s Palace
The Archbishop’s Palace (Palacio Arzobispal) sits to the right of the cathedral. It was built in 1940 on land left vacant by the demolition of the second cathedral in 1785. The palace faces both Parque Caldas and Calle del Reloj (Carrera 7).
Popayán Clock Tower
The famous Popayán Clock Tower (Torre del Reloj de Popayán) sits at the southwest corner of Parque Caldas. Nicknamed the Nose of Popayán (La Nariz de Popayán) by poet Guillermo Valencia (1873-1943), it’s one of the symbols of the city and also functions as the bell tower for the cathedral. The first stone for the Spanish Baroque tower was laid by Bishop Cristóbal Bernaldo de Quiroz in 1673 and it was completed in 1682. It was modeled on a tower in Chiapas, Mexico.
Los Portales
On the east side you’ll find Los Portales (The Portals), which was one of the first Spanish building constructed in Popayán. It was originally designed to serve as a market on Fridays. In 1625, Captain Pedro de Velasco y Zúñiga built a single-story gallery with columns supporting a thatched roof.
The building took its current appearance under Dionisia Pérez Manrique y Camberos, Marquise of San Miguel de la Vega (1668-1744), who enlarged it and added a second floor and balconies. She made the building her residence and lived there with her second husband, Baltasar Carlos Pérez de Vivero y de la Vega (1660-1729). The Jesuits inherited the property in 1744, and they sold it to the Spanish Crown.
At the beginning of the 20th century, the popular Café Belalcázar occupied the corner of Los Portales. The Bank of Colombia acquired the building in 1943, demolishing the left side of the building and constructing the modern wing with taller columns. Much of the original design was lost in the 1983 earthquake.
Popayán City Hall
North of Los Portales is Popayán City Hall (Alcaldía de Popayán). It was originally the site of the house of Spanish conquistador Pedro de Velasco (c. 1510-1571), whose descendants expanded it to become a two-story brick mansion. They also added a stone portal.
After an earthquake in 1909, the building was rebuilt in the Eclectic style. It takes its current appearance from repairs conducted due to the 1983 earthquake.
Site of the House of Sebastián de Belalcázar
The site of the house of Spanish conquistador Sebastián de Belalcázar (c. 1490-1551), who founded Popayán, is on the north side of Parque Caldas. He received the land shortly after the establishment of the city in 1537 and built a simple one-story home of bahareque and straw. His successors improved and enlarged it, and it passed to the city around 1650.
In 1736, the property was acquired by Domingo Ibarra, who built the current two-story structure and added the beautiful stone portal. The building features balconies and a central courtyard with a small pool. It was acquired by the Government of Cauca shortly after the 1983 earthquake and restored. It currently serves as the departmental headquarters of the Ministry of Education.
Government of Cauca
Next door to the west is the headquarters of the Government of Cauca. The land was originally owned by Sebastián de Belalcázar and later passed to Juan James de Rojas, who built a simple one-story structure with a tile roof. The property changed hands several times until 1719, when Governor Marcos Antonio de Rivera y Guzmán, Marquis of San Juan de Rivera, acquired it and built a mansion.
The Government of Cauca purchased the property in 1909 and demolished the mansion to build its headquarters, which was designed in the Eclectic style with Republican features. That building was almost completely destroyed by the earthquake in 1983, and the current two-story Neocolonial structure with stone portals was built starting in 1986.
Pantheon of the Heroes of Popayán
Just north of the plaza along Calle del Reloj is the Pantheon of the Heroes of Popayán (Panteón de los Próceres de Popayán). It’s a funerary monument containing the remains of the most important personalities of Popayán. Tickets are COP$10,000 for adults and COP$5,000 for children and include admission to the Natural History Museum and Mosquera House Museum (as of August 2025). It’s open daily except Mondays.
The building was built on the site of a colonial house that was demolished in the 1920s. It opened in 1928 and initially served as the headquarters for the Departmental Assembly of Cauca. The assembly quickly outgrew the space and moved out in 1940.
The rector of the University of Cauca, Antonio José Lemos Guzmán (1901-1967), who later became mayor of Popayán and Governor of Caldas, proposed the building be converted into a pantheon. The university acquired the building and on October 15, 1940, the remains of several local heroes were relocated there from different parts of the country.
Funerary urns inside the Pantheon belong to presidents, politicians, generals, and heroes of Colombian independence. Among the most important are Francisco José de Caldas (1768-1816); José Hilario López (1798-1869), the signer of the declaration ending slavery in Colombia in 1851; and general and four-term president Tomás Cipriano de Mosquera (1798-1878). In the main room is a bust of Simón Bolívar with a cross behind it.
Teatro Municipal Guillermo Valencia
On the next corner is the Teatro Municipal Guillermo Valencia (Guillermo Valencia Municipal Theatre), which was built between 1918 and 1927. It opened on December 22, 1927, with a presentation of Il Trovatore by Giuseppe Verdi (1813-1901), featuring Catalan tenor Hipólito Lázaro (1887-1974). The rooftop is adorned with eight of the nine muses of Greek mythology (missing is Calliope). The theatre was named for poet Guillermo Valencia (1873-1943) in 1973 on the 100th anniversary of his birth, and underwent a 15 year restoration after the earthquake of 1983.
Casa de don Cristóbal Manuel de Mosquera y Figueroa
At Carrera 8 and Calle 4 you’ll find the Casa de don Cristóbal Manuel de Mosquera y Figueroa. It was built by Cristóbal Manuel de Mosquera y Figueroa in the middle of the 18th century and was the birthplace of several important members of the Mosquera y Figueroa family. The building was demolished and rebuilt after the 1983 earthquake with a few modifications to its original design. The two-story structure features a portal with stone columns and the crest of the Mosquera y Figueroa family. It opens to a central courtyard.
Church of San Francisco
The biggest and most beautiful of the churches is the Church of San Francisco (Iglesia de San Francisco), which is on a small square on Calle 4, two blocks west of Parque Caldas. It’s known as one of the best examples of Baroque architecture in Colombia.
Officially the Church of Our Lady of the Graces of the Order of Friars Minor of Popayán (Iglesia de Nuestra Señora de las Gracias de la Orden de Frailes Menores de Popayán), the original church was built in the 16th century but was destroyed by an earthquake in 1736. Construction on the current church began in 1765 and was completed in 1788. It was designed by Friar Antonio García.
The church was heavily damaged by the earthquake in 1983 and was restored with help from the government of Spain. It was declared a National Monument of Colombia in 1996.
Exterior of the Church of San Francisco
The façade of the Church of San Francisco was built by Miguel Aguilón. He sculpted symbols of the Franciscan order as well as stone statues of St. Francis of Assisi, St. Dominic, and the Virgin Mary. The church originally belonged to a Franciscan monastery that has since been converted into the Hotel Dann Monasterio.
The bell tower contains one of the largest bells in the Americas, the San Antonio. Although it was cast in 1790, it couldn’t be raised to the top of the tower until 1903.
Nave of the Church of San Francisco
The church has a central nave with two aisles. The main altar is decorated with an altarpiece supported by Corinthian columns and a semicircular pediment with a painting of the Sacred Heart of Jesus. The Baroque gilded tabernacle was donated by Pedro Agustín de Valencia.
The elaborate pulpit, which is one of the most interesting features of the church, was carved in wood around the 18th century. It’s considered the finest in Colombia. It features a woman at the bottom of the stairs holding a pineapple with a basket of fruit on her head. The railing is decorated with figures of birds, vines, flowers, and fruits. Niches contains saints of the Order of Friars Minor and the top is crowned with a statue of a priest.
Side Chapels in the Church of San Francisco
Each aisle has five side chapels and altars. The left aisle is known as the Nave of the Gospel while the right aisle is called the Nave of the Epistle. I’ll cover some of the altars below.
Altar of the Lord of the Coronation
On the left aisle you’ll find the Altar of the Lord of the Coronation (Altar del Señor de la Coronación). It’s carved out of wood and covered in gold leaf. The altarpiece consists of three columns on each side of the central niche, which has an 18th-century carving of the Lord of the Coronation in the center. It’s used during annual processions on Holy Thursday.
Altar of St. Francis Xavier
Further along is the Altar of St. Francis Xavier (Altar de San Francisco Javier). It’s unique for the fact the entire altarpiece is painted on the wall, and it consists of only the niche, altar, and base with two shelves on the sides. On the top is a representation of the Sacred Heart of Jesus surrounded by clouds with two religious figures kneeling in prayer. In the niche is an 18th-century image of St. Francis Xavier from the Quito school.
Altar of St. Joseph
To the right is the Altar of St. Joseph (Altar de San José). The altar has a pair of columns on each side of a central niche. In the niche is an 18th-century image of St. Joseph from the Quito school.
Altar of St. Francis of Assisi
On the right aisle is the Altar of St. Francis of Assisi (Altar de San Francisco de Asís). It’s beautifully carved out of wood and is very simple in decoration. An 18th-century image of St. Francis of Assisi decorates the niche. It was made by Manuel Chili “Caspicara” (c. 1723-1796) of the Quito school.
Altar of the Lord of the Scourges
The Altar of the Lord of the Scourges (Altar del Señor de los Azotes) is also on the right aisle. It’s a Baroque work with an altar on the lower part and a triptych with a central niche as the altarpiece. The altar features golden floral motifs on a red background with blue frames while the altarpiece contains three levels of double arches making up a total of 12 small niches. In the niche is a figure of the Lord of the Scourges made in Pisa, Italy, in the 18th century. At the top is a painting of the Passion in a gold frame, depicting Christ carrying the cross with Simon of Cyrene and Our Lady of Sorrows behind him.
Guillermo León Valencia House Museum
A block south at the corner of Carrera 10 and Calle 5 is the Guillermo León Valencia House Museum (Casa Museo Guillermo León Valencia). It’s open daily except Mondays and admission is free (as of August 2024). It was the home of Guillermo León Valencia (1909-1971), who was president of Colombia from 1962 to 1966.
The home, which was built in the middle of the 18th century, has two cobblestone patios. It was acquired by the future president in the middle of the 20th century. There are a couple rooms dedicated to his life and he was buried in one of the patios in 2008.
Negret House Museum
On the opposite corner is the Negret House Museum (Casa Museo Negret), featuring modern art by Popayán-born artist Édgar Negret Dueñas (1920-2012). Admission is free (as of March 2024) and it’s open daily.
The house has one story and two cobblestone patios with a private water supply. It was built in the 18th century at what was then the westernmost point of the city. The house was acquired by Rafael Negret and his son Édgar spent a few years of his life there.
The Popayán Contemporary Art Foundation (Fundación de Arte Contemporáneo de Popayán) purchased the building before it was destroyed during the 1983 earthquake. It was reconstructed and repurposed as the Ibero-American Museum of Modern Art (Museo Iberoamericano de Arte Moderno) in tribute to Negret.
House of the Regent
Continuing east at the corner of Calle 5 and Carrera 9 is the Regent’s House (Casa del Regente). It was built near the end of the 18th century for Joaquín de Mosquera y Figueroa (1748-1830), who was appointed regent to the Spanish Crown in 1812. The building was designed by Marcelino Pérez de Arroyo y Valencia (1764-1833) and features brick portals supporting balconies.
Church of San José
At the corner of Calle 5 and Carrera 8 is the Church of San José (Iglesia de San José), also known as the Church of the Company of Jesus (Iglesia de la Compañía de Jesús). The original church was built by the Jesuits in 1702 and destroyed during an earthquake on February 2, 1736. They commissioned German architect Simon Schenherr to design the current church, which was rebuilt starting the same year. The Jesuits were expelled in 1767 and only one tower had been completed at that time.
The Church of San José functioned as the city’s vice-vathedral after the demolition of the cathedral in 1785. The Redemptorists took over in the early 20th century, and it has been administered by the Eudists since 2006. The church features a central nave with five side chapels on each side covered by half barrel vaults. The altarpiece of the main altar is in the Neoclassical style while the pulpit is Neo-Gothic.
Casa del Encomendero
Across the street is the Casa del Encomendero. It was built in the middle of the 18th century by Francisco Hurtado del Águila, the Encomendero of Chapa and Julumito. It has hosted important guests in the past, such as Francisco José de Caldas, and at the end of the 19th century belonged to Dr. José Antonio Arroyo, father of the former president of Ecuador, Carlos Arroyo del Río (1893-1969). The building was later sold to Julio Chaux Rengifo. It was repaired after the earthquake in 1983 and opened the following year as Hotel La Plazuela.
Church of San Agustín
The Church of San Agustín (Iglesia de San Agustín) is two blocks south of Parque Caldas at Carrera 6 and Calle 7. Officially the Church of the Order of Hermits of San Agustín de Hipona (Iglesia de la Orden de Ermitaños de San Agustín de Hipona), it was originally built by the Augustinians as a simple adobe and bahareque structure in the last quarter of the 16th century. That church was destroyed during an earthquake on February 2, 1736. The current church was designed by Gregorio Causí, with construction starting shortly after the earthquake. It was finished in 1858 with the bell tower completed in 1957. The Augustinians administered the church until 1863. It was declared a national monument on December 30, 1959.
The Church of San Agustín is on a basilica plan with a central nave and two aisles lined with impressive side chapels. The most impressive work of art is the gilded Baroque altarpiece and the tabernacle made of silver. In front is a 16th-century image of Christ attributed to Diego de Siloé (c. 1495-1563) on an 18th-century silver crucifix made in Popayán. It usually features on Good Friday processions.
Church of the Incarnation
A block east of Parque Caldas, at the corner of Calle 5 and Carrera 5, is the Church of the Incarnation (Iglesia de la Encarnación). It was the chapel of the Cloister of Our Lady of the Incarnation of the Discalced Augustinian Nuns (Claustro de Nuestra Señora de la Encarnación de las Monjas Agustinas Descalzas) until 1863. The cloister is now a high school, the Colegio Mayor del Cauca.
The cloister was founded in 1592, with construction on the church starting that same year. The complex was destroyed by the earthquake on February 2, 1736, and rebuilt between 1764 and 1782. It was designed by German architect Simon Schenherr with Baroque and Neoclassical elements, and completed by Gregorio Causí. The Augustinians were expelled from Colombia in 1863 and the church has been a parish since then.
The church features beautiful side altars while the Baroque main altarpiece is one of the finest in the city. It’s hand-carved and gilded with niches decorated with statues. The octagonal pulpit is also impressive.
Auditorium of the University of Cauca
On the next block east is the Auditorium of the University of Cauca (Paraninfo de la Universidad del Cauca), which is dedicated to Francisco José de Caldas. It was built starting in 1892 and completed on April 23, 1916. It has a Neoclassical and Eclectic façade designed by Italian architect Luis Chiappini. Inside, on the back wall is The Apotheosis of Popayán (La Apoteosis de Popayán) painted by Efraím Martínez (1898-1956) between 1935 and 1955. It’s 6 meters (19.84 feet) high and 9 meters (29.75 feet) long. The building is flanked on both sides of the Dominican Convent of Santo Domingo, which currently functions as the university’s Faculty of Law.
The Hermitage of Jesus of Nazareth
Two blocks further east you’ll find the Hermitage of Jesus of Nazareth (La Ermita de Jesús Nazareno), officially the Hermitage of Jesus of Nazareth, St. Barbara, and St. Catherine of Alexandria (La Ermita de Jesús Nazareno, Santa Barbara y Santa Catalina de Alejandría). It’s considered the oldest surviving Catholic temple in the city. The cobblestone street in front is one of the last examples in the city.
The chapel, which dates back to 1546, was built between 1612 and 1617 and originally dedicated to St. Barbara and St. Catherine of Alexandria. It was rededicated in 1660 to include Jesus of Nazareth. The chapel belonged to the poorest citizens of Popayán and was not within the Colonial city limits. Benefactor Lorenzo de Mendoza and his wife María de León wanted it elevated to a parish and to build a hospital next to it, but their request was rejected by royal decree on May 1, 1687.
After 1786, the chapel sat next to the city’s first cemetery. It was intended for the burials of the indigenous and the poor. It also functioned as a pantheon until January 27, 1845, when the Popayán Central Cemetery (Cementerio Central de Popayán) on the far west side of the city.
Although simple compared to other churches in Popayán, the Hermitage houses a handful of beautiful carvings, including the gilded 17th-century pulpit.
Casa de Miguel Arroyo Hurtado
Moving a block north to the corner of Carrera 3 and Calle 4 is the Casa de Miguel Arroyo Hurtado. It features a row of windows on the first floor flanking a main portal with two Tuscan columns supporting a central balcony. There are another 18 balconies on both sides of the building. The property was originally owned by Bernardo Arboleda and was acquired by Miguel Arroyo Hurtado (1826-1892), the last governor of the State of Cauca, in the middle of the 19th century. He built the house with his wife Margarita Diez-Colunje y Pombo (1838-1919). It was rebuilt according to its original design after the 1983 earthquake and is considered one of the finest examples of the Popayán style of architecture.
Church of Our Lady of Mount Carmel
Across the street is the Church of Our Lady of Mount Carmel (Iglesia de Nuestra Señora del Carmen). It was originally part of the Convent of Our Lady of Mount Carmel of the Order of the Discalced Carmelites (Convento de Nuestra Señora del Monte Carmelo de la Orden de las Carmelitas Descalzas), who arranged their mission in Popayán in 1720. The land on which the complex sits was owned by Pedro León de Mesa, who sold it to Francisco de Arboleda who in turn donated it to the Order of Discalced Carmelites.
Construction began in 1730 but all the work was destroyed by an earthquake on February 2, 1736. Architect Gregorio Causí was brought in to design a new complex, with work commencing that same year. Some of the best artists from Popayán were commissioned to decorate the church, which was completed in 1774.
The Discalced Carmelites were expelled from Colombia in 1863 and the nuns fled to Ibarra, Ecuador, where they settled in 1876 and built a similar convent. That convent is considered the successor to the one in Popayán, which now belongs to the Faculty of Human and Social Sciences of the University of Cauca.
The highlight of the church is the altarpiece, which is considered a masterpiece of Popayán art. It’s hand-carved and gilded and contains a number of statues. The one representing St. Teresa of Ávila was brought from Ávila, Spain. The altars along the aisles are also worth a look, as is the gilded 18th-century pulpit.
Archdiocesan Museum of Religious Art
A block west towards Parque Caldas, you’ll find the Archdiocesan Museum of Religious Art (Museo Arquidiocesano de Arte Religioso) on the north side of the street. It’s open daily except Sundays. Admission, including a guided tour, is COP$8,000 per person (as of May 2025).
The museum was founded on October 10, 1972, by Monsignor Miguel Ángel Arce Vivas (1904-1987) and opened to the public on September 21, 1979. Its purpose is to protect colonial art belonging to the Archdiocese of Popayán and affiliated churches, parishes, and convents. After the devastating earthquake in 1983, works at risk of being stolen by looters were added to the collection. On display are works ranging from the 16th through 20th centuries, including paintings and carvings from the Quito school, processionals, silverware, liturgical items, furniture, ornaments, and more.
The museum is housed in the Arboleda Family House (Casa de la Familia Arboleda), which was completed around 1786 by architect Marcelino Pérez de Arroyo y Valencia (1764-1833). It features two cobblestone patios surrounded by arched porticoes on both floors.
Church of Santo Domingo
The Church of Santo Domingo (Iglesia de Santo Domingo) is across the street at the corner of Calle 4 and Carrera 5. It’s part of the Cloister of Our Lady of the Rosary of the Order of the Preachers (Claustro de Nuestra Señora del Rosario de la Orden de los Predicadores). It’s the third church on the site. The first was a simple chapel built by the Dominicans in 1552. It was destroyed during an earthquake in 1564 and replaced with a cloister completed in 1575.
The friars built the second church, which was stronger and more elaborate, between 1606 and 1683. It was completely destroyed by an earthquake on February 2, 1736. Gregorio Causí, Antonio García, and Simon Schenheer collaborated to build a new complex, which was built starting in 1740. The Arboleda family contributed greatly to the construction and decorations.
The Dominicans were expelled from the complex by decree of Simón Bolívar (1783-1830) on October 2, 1827, and the property was allocated to the University of Cauca. The church became a parish under the jurisdiction of the Diocese of Popayán. The bell tower collapsed during an earthquake in the late 19th century. It was rebuilt by architect Adolfo Dueñas and completed in 1885.
The nave is lined with chapels on both sides. The main altar features a Neoclassical altarpiece with four Corinthian columns. In the central niche is a sculpture of Our Lady of the Rosary, which was brought from Spain and is the oldest image still venerated in Popayán today. The Neoclassical pulpit was designed by Francisco José de Caldas (1768-1816) and gilded and painted in 1825 by José Caicedo.
Mosquera House Museum
A block north at the corner of Carrera 5 and Calle 3 is the Mosquera House Museum (Casa Museo Mosquera). This 18th-century building was the former home of General Tomás Cipriano de Mosquera (1798-1878), a four-time president of Colombia. It also hosted guests such as Simón Bolívar from January 23 through February 12, 1829, and Antonio José de Sucre (1795-1830) from January through March 1822 and again from January through May 1830.
Tickets are COP$10,000 for adults and COP$5,000 for children and include admission to the Natural History Museum and Pantheon of the Heroes (as of August 2025). Tickets must be purchased at the Pantheon of the Heroes. The museum is open daily except Mondays.
The museum features historical items from the personal collection of the general and his brother, Archbishop Manuel José Mosquera (1800-1853), along with some colonial and religious art.
Guillermo Valencia National Museum
Around the corner on Carrera 6 is the Guillermo Valencia National Museum (Museo Nacional Guillermo Valencia). It was the home of poet, writer, and politician Guillermo Valencia Castillo (1873-1943). The museum is open daily except Mondays and admission is free (as of December 2024). A mandatory guided tour of the home takes you through several rooms of the house with authentic furnishings, photos, and belongings of the Valencia family.
The two-story Neoclassical house was built in the late 18th century and features a large central courtyard. It was built by José Gregorio Angulo and designed by Marcelino Pérez de Arroyo y Valencia. The house later became property of the Angulo Diago family and later the Valencia family. It hosted German naturalist Alexander von Humboldt (1769-1859) in 1801 and Spanish sculptor Victorio Macho (1887-1966) in 1837.
After the death of Guillermo Valencia in 1943, a mausoleum was built in a room off the garden. Valencia was buried there with his wife Josefina Muñoz. The garden is the most photogenic part of the house, resting on the slope towards the Molino River. It features a fountain, a statue of Valencia, and excellent views of the Puente del Humilladero.
Puente del Humilladero
The Puente del Humilladero, officially the Puente de Bolívar (Bolívar Bridge) is an arched bridge on the northern edge of the historic center of Popayán. It was designed by Friar Serafín Barbetti, a Franciscan monk from Italy. The first stone was laid on September 16, 1868, and it opened on July 31, 1873.
The bridge allowed easier access to the city center from the Bolívar neighborhood to the north. It was closed to vehicular traffic in the middle of the 20th century and has since become an important cultural and tourist attraction.
The bridge has 12 arches, with the two central arches each 12 meters wide and 9 meters high. It’s 240 meters long and 5.26 meters wide. On the south end is a small square with a statue of poet Julio Arboleda (1817-1862).
Puente de la Custodia
Next to the Puente del Humilladero is the tiny Puente de la Custodia. It opened in 1713 to allow priests to attend to the sick in the poorer northern suburbs. For 160 years, until the Puente del Humilladero was built, it was the only entry and exit on the north side of the city. It was almost destroyed by a flood in 1933 and was rebuilt in 1940.
In an important historic event, troops commanded by Simón Bolívar triumphantly crossed over the bridge after liberating the city during the struggle for Colombian independence.
Morro del Tulcán
For great views of Popayán, head to the top of Morro del Tulcán. This grass-covered hill is actually a pyramid built during the pre-Columbian period, sometime between the 9th and 13th centuries.
In March 1957, a storm exposed an opening with a 3-meter-high wall decorated with adobe mosaics. The hill was then excavated beginning July 15 of that year by Julio César Cubillos Chaparro (1920-1994), who determined it was used for funerary rituals. He made 13 trenches and found steps and tombs. Seashells and precious stones from other regions of Colombia and South America were also discovered, as well as evidence of an artificial lake surrounding the pyramid.
The 80-meter-high hill was once topped with an equestrian statue of Spanish conquistador Sebastián de Belalcázar (c. 1490-1551), the founder of Popayán in 1537. It was sculpted by Spanish artist Victorio Macho (1887-1966) and inaugurated in 1937. The statue was destroyed on September 16, 2020, by indigenous Guambiano protestors.
Rincón Payanés
At the bottom of the hill is Rincón Payanés, which features miniature versions of Popayán’s most iconic landmarks. It’s a decent place to buy local arts and crafts as well as snacks and coffee. There were only a couple shops open at the time we visited.
Chapel of Bethlehem
Finally, on a hill on the east end of town is the Chapel of Bethlehem (Capilla de Belén), officially the Church of Our Lady of Bethlehem of Popayán (Iglesia de Nuestra Señora de Belén de Popayán).
To reach the chapel, there are a series of stone steps. We decided to take a taxi because locals told us it might not be safe to walk up. Once at the top, you’ll be treated to great views of Popayán.
The interior of the chapel features a simple Neoclassical altarpiece. It houses a 17th-century image of Santo Ecce Homo brought from Pasto and installed in 1717.
History of the Chapel of Bethlehem
In the middle of the 17th century, there was nothing atop the hill except a small hut. During the Christmas season, locals would build a manger there. Juan Antonio de Velasco (c. 1651-c. 1709), a freed slave who became very wealthy, led a group of nobles to purchase the site to build a sanctuary. Bishop Cristóbal Bernaldo de Quirós (1618-1684) gave the group the necessary permits. Work began on September 1, 1681, and was completed in 1689. The chapel was given to the Carmelites and a 17th-century image of Our Lady of Bethlehem was brought from Quito.
Christmas celebrations started taking place at the chapel in 1689 but by 1717 they became so popular the decision was made to expand it. Francisco Beltrán de la Torre designed and funded the project, giving the chapel its current Greek cross plan with a single nave. Two altars were added to the right side, both featuring paintings by José María Veintemilla. The image of Santo Ecce Homo from Pasto, once owned by Juan Antonio de Velasco, was also donated to the chapel.
In 1787, the chapel collapsed during an earthquake. It was rebuilt by José Beltrán, the son of Francisco Beltrán. In 1863, the Carmelites were expelled from Colombia, and the chapel collapsed in 1885 during another earthquake. It was rebuilt this time by Adolfo Dueñas (1845-1906), who added a dome and two towers at the entrance.
On February 9, 1967, yet another earthquake caused heavy damage to the chapel. It was redesigned by architect Guillermo Collazos Rubio, who added a gabled roof with an arch at the entrance and returned it to a Colonial appearance. Eight stained glass windows were added in 2017 to commemorate the 300th anniversary of the installation of the image of Santo Ecce Homo.
Legend of the Stone Cross
In 1789, local sculptor Miguel Aguilón added the large stone cross near the entrance. It stands on a base with reliefs of the Sacred Heart of Jesus on all four sides.
On February 4, 1877, an armed group of liberals sacked the building and acted violently toward Bishop Carlos Bermúdez Pinzón. As he was being forcibly removed from the property, he looked at the cross and proclaimed:
I curse this city, cradle of masons and enemies of God… not even the dust of this place took me… The day the cross of the church of Bethlehem falls, the dead will come out of their graves and Popayán will end.
Bermúdez was later exiled to Chile, but his words were not forgotten. On March 31, 1983, during the violent earthquake that destroyed much of the city, the cross collapsed except for a small section. Locals believed that if it had collapsed completely, the city would cease to exist.
