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Santa Cruz de Lorica is a town in the Caribbean region of Colombia. It’s a unique place that seems stuck in time.
Introduction to Lorica
Lorica was founded on the banks of the Sinú River as Santa Cruz de Gaita on November 24, 1776, by Juan de Torrezar Díaz Pimienta, the Governor of Cartagena. The name later changed to Santa Cruz de Lorica to honor a local indigenous chief.
Lorica was an important economic center and a melting pot of local and foreign cultures from the mid-19th through early 20th centuries. The architecture was heavily influenced by Syrian and Lebanese immigrants, and the rich natural resources attracted people from France, Belgium, England, Italy, and the United States.
Today, Lorica is a Colombian Heritage Town (Pueblo Patrimonio) full of architectural gems and an interesting local gastronomy. It’s off the beaten path, but worth the trek if you’ve got the time.
Getting to Lorica
The nearest airport to Lorica is Los Garzones Airport in Montería, which is a little over an hour away. There are regularly scheduled flights from Bogotá, Medellín, and Barranquilla (as of August 2024). You can also catch a bus from Montería or Cartagena.
Lorica Riverwalk
One of the best ways to see Lorica is to stroll along the riverwalk (malecón) on the Sinú River. There, you’ll get the best views of town.
The riverwalk runs for about six blocks. It contains a few trees and benches as well as a bike path. As we continued towards the historic center of town, the views of the buildings got better and better.
Plaza Eva y María
At about the midpoint of the riverwalk, across the street is Plaza Eva y María. There’s a statue of what I assume is Eve on her knees in front of the Virgin Mary.
Mural of Lorica
At the east end, there’s an amazing mural plastered on the side of a building. It was created by Adriano Ríos Sossa, an artist born in Lorica.
The mural is a mosaic made of 1,200 pieces and depicts life in the town in the 1950s. In that era, Lorica was the most important commercial hub along the Sinú River. You can see the influence of immigrants from Syria and Lebanon, Germany, and Italy, as well as Afro-Colombians and indigenous peoples.
The mural vividly captures Lorica in its heyday and helped me travel back in time to understand how the town must have appeared to travelers.
Gastrobar Saudita
Continuing east along the river, we passed the Gastrobar Saudita, which opened in 1958. This shows some of the Arab influence in Lorica.
Parque Simón Bolívar
A short walk east of the riverwalk is Parque Simón Bolívar, which is the main plaza in Lorica. It’s surrounded by some of the most important buildings in town.
Cathedral of Santa Cruz de Lorica
On the north end is the Cathedral of Santa Cruz de Lorica (Catedral de Santa Cruz de Lorica). This colonial church was built in 1700 and looks larger than it is. When you look at it from the side, you notice it’s only one story high.
The incredible façade is a combination of the various cultures in Lorica. The clock was donated by the Lebanese and Syrian community and imported from Italy in 1920, while the bells were cast in Lisbon, Portugal. The bronze statues were made in France.
Parque Lácides Bersal
Next to the cathedral is Parque Lácides Bersal. It was originally called Parque La Fraternidad but renamed in honor of Lácides Bersal (1865-1947), an important Catholic priest, in the 1960s. Bersal was instrumental in the renovation of the cathedral and the construction of the Public Market. In the center is a statue of the priest.
González Building
Across the plaza is the González Building (Edificio González), which is one of the most elegant buildings in town. It was built in 1929 by José Bravo and was originally known as the Martínez building. Since 2005, it has served as the town hall and contains a tourist info center.
Antioquian Commercial Bank
In a building to the right of the González Building, we found what was once the night deposit box at the former Antioquian Commercial Bank (Banco Comercial Antioqueño).
La Isla Building
On the east side of the plaza is the La Isla Building (Edificio La Isla). It was completed around 1919 and has always been used for commercial activities. It was designed in the Neoclassical style and is surrounded by columns on all four sides.
Public Market of Lorica
The Public Market (Mercado Público), known locally as El Ranchón, is the most iconic building in Lorica. It’s a beautiful structure located east of Parque Simón Bolívar with a façade along the Sinú River.
The Public Market opened in 1929 and was designed by French architect Gastón Lelarge (1861-1934). It’s a blend of the Neoclassical and Republican styles with Arabic influences. Columns surround all four sides of the building.
Inside, you can find all kinds of goods including locally made crafts, spices, household goods, and much more. It’s a great place to buy an authentic sombrero vueltiao, a national symbol of Colombia.
If you want to get a taste of Lorica, visit one of the food stalls. They’re set up on the river side of the building. We noticed several women preparing local specialties for lunch. It was too early to eat so we didn’t have a chance to try anything on our visit.
Observing Local Life at the Public Market
The Public Market is the best place to spend time in Lorica, especially if you want to observe local life that seems as if has been unchanged for decades. On the side facing the street, there’s plenty of life. Street vendors set up shop next to and across the street from the market while locals walk by greeting each other.
On the side facing the Sinú River, we noticed men preparing fishing nets, a man collecting bottles floating downriver, and three men collecting silt in a boat just offshore.
Afife Matuk Building
Just east of the Public Market, we admired another Arab contribution, the Afife Matuk Building (Edificio Afife Matuk). It was completed in 1929 for Checri Fallad and designed by Pedro Barrios.
Herons
East of the Afife Matuk Building is a narrow path along the Sinú River. We stopped to admire some of the white herons that stood along the river’s edge.
Caraballo Building
A block north of the Public Market is the Dolores de Caraballo Building (Edificio Dolores de Caraballo). It was built in 1936 by José Bravo and was used as a meeting and recreational space for members of the Club Unión. It has also been a meeting place for members of the Syrian and Lebanese community of Lorica.
Plaza de La Concordia
Further north is Plaza de La Concordia, which contains a large outdoor public market. This seemed to be where the majority of locals do their shopping. The shops contained mostly household goods, shoes, and clothing.
Plaza de la Cruz
A block north is Plaza de la Cruz, which contains a large cross in the center. There are two important buildings on the plaza.
Ana Gabriela Martínez Martelo House
On the east end is the Ana Gabriela Martínez Martelo House (Casa de Ana Gabriela Martínez Martelo). It was completed in 1929 and originally functioned as a clinic. Built in the Neoclassical style with Spanish colonial and African elements, it has since been turned into a private residence.
Lorica Social Club
On the north end is the Lorica Social Club (Club Lorica). It was built in 1950 and is still active. Although it’s quite simple in style, it’s considered one of the most beautiful and elegant buildings in the city.
Palace of the 13 Columns
A block north is the Palace of the 13 Columns (Palacio de las 13 Columnas), which functions as the Municipal Council (Concejo Municipal). Construction began in 1880 under Mayor Juan Burgos Villadiego and was completed in 1915 under Mayor Joaquín Lubo. It has housed the town hall, a jail, and police station.
Monument to the Father of the Fatherland
Finally, a couple blocks east is a plaza with the Monument to the Father of the Fatherland (Monumento al Padre de la Patria), which is dedicated to Admiral José Padilla (1784-1828). It sits in the center of the plaza where Padilla liberated Lorica from Spain in 1821. The monument is seven meters high and consists of an obelisk with an eagle at the top. The plaza was once known as Hermitage Plaza (Plaza de la Ermita) due to a small hermitage nearby. It was laid out in 1930 and completed in 1939.
