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Honda, one of Colombia’s prestigious Heritage Towns (Pueblos Patrimonio), is a colonial gem with cobblestone streets and a timeless riverfront charm.
Introduction to Honda
Known as the “City of Bridges”, Honda sits at the confluence of the Magdalena River, the country’s longest waterway, and the smaller Río Gualí. It boasts more than 40 bridges crossing these and two smaller rivers that pass through the city, some of them dating back to the late 19th century.
At first glance, Honda isn’t exactly a dream town. The weather is unbearably hot and lots of buildings are in disrepair, but once you dig deeper you’ll find a greater appreciation for it. The best place to explore is the old town, which features charming 17th century cobblestone alleyways lined with colorful colonial homes and a connection to its past as the country’s most important river port.
History of Honda
Honda is named for the Ondaima, one of the indigenous peoples who once inhabited the shores of the Magdalena River. The town was founded on August 24, 1539, by Francisco Nuñez Pedroso (1499-1572), a captain in the army of Spanish conquistador Gonzalo Jiménez de Quesada (1509-1579). It was elevated to a villa on March 4, 1643, and a city on June 30, 1815.
In the 16th and 17th centuries, Honda was an obligatory stop for all passengers and goods traveling inland from Cartagena. It grew in the second half of the 18th century with the construction of schools, hospitals, convents, and churches. Much of the city was destroyed by an earthquake on June 16, 1805.
From December 22, 1814, to May 1, 1816, Honda was part of the independent of Province of Mariquita. The city was finally freed from Spain and became part of the Republic of Colombia on December 17, 1819.
Honda entered its golden age in the middle of the 19th century, when it became the country’s most important inland port. At that time, the Magdalena River was the only means of transportation between Bogotá and the Caribbean coast. All goods arriving and leaving the capital went through Honda. This period lasted until 1910.
Honda largely escaped the violence that plagued the region in the 1950s, earning it the title “City of Peace”. In 2010, it was named one of the country’s Heritage Towns. Today, it’s known as a friendly place with important tourism, fishing, and livestock industries.
Getting to Honda
Honda is located just three to four hours from Bogotá (depending on traffic), four hours from Manizales, and six hours from Medellín. Several buses to and from all three cities pass through town. The bus terminal is located just a few minutes taxi ride outside the old town.
Getting Around Honda
Pretty much everything there is to see, restaurants, and several hotels are in the old town. If you’re staying in that area, you won’t need a car or taxi. Also, there’s a tourist info center on Calle de las Trampas.
Where to Stay in Honda
We’ve had two overnight trips to the city.
El Virrey Hotel Boutique
We stayed a few nights at El Virrey Hotel Boutique. It’s a reasonably-priced colonial-style hotel with about 20 rooms on the west side of Honda, about a 5-minute drive to the old town. Although it bills itself as a boutique hotel, the lack of professionalism and service hardly qualifies it as one. I’ll get to that later.
Let’s start with the positives. The hotel has a wonderful swimming pool in the courtyard, a small gym, and a recreational area on the upper floor with ping pong and pool tables. You can buy reasonably priced beer and other drinks at the bar next to the pool, and a simple breakfast is available in the small restaurant.
We stayed in a spacious family room that sleeps seven. The air conditioning worked great and it was comfortable and relatively quiet at night. The large bathroom was also a plus.
The Negatives
Moving on to the negatives, staff lacked professionalism and seemed indifferent to any issues we had. First of all, when we checked into the room we found a thick layer of dust on the shelves and there were no towels or toilet paper in the bathroom. They provided us with a half roll of toilet paper for the five of us and gave us four towels. We appreciated that they cleaned the room and gave us fresh towels after the first night but they did nothing about the dust. After the second night, there was no cleaning whatsoever. The least they could do was empty the trash in the bathroom.
Furthermore, the front desk attendant gave us a dumbfounded look when we asked for an iron before we went out to dinner. “A curling iron for your hair?” was the response. While we enjoyed our stay overall, especially cooling off in the pool after sightseeing in the heat, we wouldn’t recommend the hotel until they fix the issues I mentioned and train their staff on how to properly run a boutique hotel.
Hotel Riviera Plaza
On our first trip, we stayed at Hotel Riviera Plaza. The pictures look nice but it’s only so-so. There was no toilet seat and the bathroom door didn’t close. The swimming pool we looked forward to had murky water. The saving grace was the wonderful staff and great air conditioning. WiFi is also pretty good. There’s a restaurant on-site that serves a decent and reasonably priced breakfast.
Where to Eat in Honda
There are some great choices for food in Honda, from traditional Colombian to gourmet creations. We found a substantial improvement in the variety of restaurants and quality of food in the 10 years between our visits. Most of the best restaurants are in the old town while the Zona Rosa also has a few good options. Also, keep in mind that most of the best restaurants are only open Thursday through Sunday.
The Zona Rosa, which is the town’s entertainment zone, is located quite a hike from the old town and a taxi is recommended. Most of the choices are fast food, chicken or pizza.
40 Puentes
Our favorite restaurant by far is 40 Puentes, which is located on Parque José León Armero. It’s an upscale place with a creative menu and great service that’s typically open Wednesday through Sunday. We visited once for dinner and the next day for lunch.
Starters and Main Courses at 40 Puentes
The starters are a great indication of how delicious of a visit you’ll have. At both meals, we were given complimentary arepas with hogao. We’ve tried the vegetable spring rolls and empanadas made with plantain and filled with lechona, with are both excellent. The mini burgers on an arepa are decent, but the tomato soup is even better. You can get the soup with or without chicken.
The main courses are phenomenal, and the variety in the menu makes it difficult to choose. I’ve had the chateaubriand and filet mignon while Marisol has tried the ceviche and Peruvian steak. The chateaubriand comes with lemon butter while the filet is topped with a mushroom sauce and served with a strip of bacon. Our steaks were cooked to perfection each time, tender, juicy, and tasty.
Desserts and Drinks at 40 Puentes
You can’t leave without trying one of the delectable desserts. On both visits, we had the cheesecake, which is in a crumb form underneath a layer of mousse. You can get it with a dollop of nutella or lemon.
Finally, the cocktails and drinks are a great way to wash down your meal. The mulita apasionada is a cocktail with passionfruit and the mojitos are amazing. For lemonades, you can get them with basil, mint, cherry, coconut, and a couple other options. The tamarind soda is another great choice, served with lemon juice and either salt or sugar on the rim of the glass.
Efímero 40 Puentes
40 Puentes’ sister restaurant, Efímero, is in the Zona Rosa. It’s a huge outdoor space with an equally creative menu but a bit more on the casual side. They also have live entertainment on some nights.
We started with an order of mushroom and vegetable empanadas with lulo salsa, which was a great combination of flavors. I had a burger and Marisol had the mochila de cachaco, which is a crunchy edible basket filled with chicken and veggies. To finish off the meal, we tried the apple pie, which is deep fried and served with vanilla ice cream. Everything was delicious as expected.
In addition to great food, Efímero has a decent selection of cocktails, mocktails, and juices. Marisol had the caricia, which is peach-based, while I had the mito, which has strawberry and hibiscus.
Primer Muelle
Primer Muelle is on the northeast corner of the old town, across the street from the Casa de los Conquistadores. They serve Caribbean-style dishes and a few traditional Colombian plates.
We went in for lunch and started with the ceviche peruano, which was the best thing we ordered. I had the arroz con mariscos (seafood rice) while Marisol went with the cazuela de mariscos (seafood stew). We liked both meals but the octopus didn’t taste so fresh.
Vinos en Escena
We didn’t actually get to try it, but Vinos en Escena was near the top of our list while visiting Honda. Unfortunately, this place specializing in wine and Spanish tapas wasn’t open at the times posted on the door, and we passed by twice. I’m only adding it here as a reminder next time I pass through town. It’s around the corner from Primer Muelle.
7 Cocos
Across from the Casa de los Conquistadores is 7 Cocos. They specialize in coconut-based ice cream in a variety of different flavors. I had the chocolate flavor and it was a great way to cool off from the unbearable heat.
Mis Antojitos
Mis Antojitos is a small café with pastries next to Casa Alfonso López Pumarejo. They serve good coffee and have a nice place to sit outside on the sidewalk.
Donde Katleya
On our first visit, we stumbled upon Donde Katleya, a small restaurant run out of a house in the old town. They served very good seafood and Caribbean-style dishes for reasonable prices.
Bridges in Honda
As I mentioned earlier, Honda is known as the “City of Bridges”. There are over 40 registered bridges, of which 18 are currently in use. I’ve written about the most important bridges below.
Puente Luis Ignacio Andrade
Puente Luis Ignacio Andrade, which is 260 meters long, crosses the Magdalena River allowing access between Honda and Bogotá. This bridge, also known as Puente del Carmen, opened in 1952. It’s named for government minister Dr. Luis Ignacio Andrade (1894-1966), who chose the location for its construction.
Across the bridge is the ramshackle town of Puerto Bogotá. It’s full of roadside restaurants serving traditional Colombian fare. I can’t speak for the quality of the food, but they cater to travelers passing between Bogotá and Medellín.
Puente López
Puente López crosses Río Gualí next to Plaza de Mercado. It was originally known as Puente San Francisco and dates back to the Spanish colonial period. The original bridge was destroyed by an earthquake in 1805 and replaced with a wooden bridge that collapsed in 1902. The current bridge was inaugurated on July 20, 1916, and is named for Pedro Aquilino López (the father of Alfonso López Pumarejo), who donated the metal structure. It was designed by Dr. Ismael Gallego.
Puente Agudelo
Puente Agudelo crosses Río Gualí further to the east. It was originally built in 1870 but damaged by rising waters on October 28, 1925. The current bridge was inaugurated on December 15, 1951. It’s named for local philanthropist Dr. Alejandro Agudelo. Other bridges, such as Puente Diamante and Puente Colorado, crossed the river at the same spot starting in the 18th century.
Puente Negro
Puente Negro (Black Bridge) opened in 1903 and crosses Río Gualí about 130 meters from its confluence with the Magdalena River. It’s 240 feet long and 36 feet high. It once served the La Dorada Railway Company and has been repurposed for vehicle traffic.
Puente Navarro
Puente Navarro, which crosses the Magdalena River south of the old town, is the oldest anchored steel bridge in the Western Hemisphere. It was built between 1894 and 1898 by the San Francisco Bridge Company of New York, the same company that built the Golden Gate Bridge. The bridge is named for its architect, Bernardo Navarro Bohórquez.
Puente Navarro is 167.6 meters long, 5.2 meters wide, and 18.3 meters high. It consists of 926 planks and 5,556 rivets. It opened on January 16, 1899, and the contract allowed Navarro to collect tolls for 99 years. While walking to the bridge, notice the mural on the wall along the road leading to it.
Puente de Quebrada Seca
To get to Puente Navarro, you have to cross Puente de Quebrada Seca. It crosses Quebrada Seca and was built by the La Dorada Railway Company in 1919. The bridge is about 300 meters from the confluence of Quebrada Seca and the Magdalena River.
Historic Streets in Honda
The most picturesque parts of Honda are the cobblestone streets in the old town. They’re lined with a mixture of restored and crumbling buildings of various colors, and some have fantastic views from the top. Wandering up and down most of these streets will take you to some of the important historic buildings I’ve listed later in this post.
Cuesta de San Francisco
Cuesta de San Francisco connects Parque José León Armero at the top and Plaza de Mercado at the bottom. It’s lined with a handful of colorful buildings and is one of the few open to vehicle traffic.
Calle de las Trampas
Calle de las Trampas is the most famous street in Honda. It translates to Street of the Traps and takes its name from the zigzag pattern, as it doesn’t follow a straight path. It’s an attraction in itself and connects to a handful of other cobblestone alleys and hills. The street connects Cuesta de San Francisco with Calle del Retiro.
Cuesta de Mister Owen
Cuesta de Mister Owen, also known as Cuesta de los Monroy, is a hill connecting Calle 11 at the top with Calle de las Trampas at the bottom. With scenic views and a beautiful mansion at the bottom, it’s one of the most photographed spots in Honda.
Callejón de la Broma
This narrow alley connects Calle de las Trampas with Plaza de Las Américas. According to a commemorative plaque, “José Antonio Galán passed by like a meteor on July 23, 1781”. Galán (1741-1782) was a hero who was executed for leading an insurrection against the Spanish.
Cuesta Zaldúa
Continuing east down Calle de las Trampas is Cuesta Zaldúa, which connects at the top with Calle 11. It’s known for spectacular views from the top.
Callejón San José
Next is Callejón San José. It’s a short but picturesque alleyway connecting Calle de las Trampas with the Casa de los Conquistadores.
Cuesta de los Herreros
Connecting Calle 11 at the top with Calle del Retiro at the bottom is Cuesta de los Herreros. From the top you can get views of the hills across the Magdalena River.
Cuesta Larga
Cuesta Larga is the longest cobblestone hill in the old town of Honda. It connects Calle 10 at the top with Calle del Retiro at the bottom.
Callejón del Sello Real
Finally, next to the Magdalena River Museum is Callejón del Sello Real. This short but scenic alley narrows as it moves away from the museum and connects to Calle del Retiro.
Parque José León Armero
Parque José León Armero is a good place to start exploring the old town of Honda. It’s named for José León Armero Racines (1775-1816), a hero of Colombian independence who was killed by Spanish troops. A bust of Armero is on the west side of the park. It was erected on the 200th anniversary of his death. Another bust of David Robert Owen Hughes Williams, the mayor of Honda from 1988 to 1990, sits on the other side.
Cathedral of Our Lady of the Rosary
The Cathedral of Our Lady of the Rosary (Catedral Nuestra Señora del Rosario) is on the south side of the park. Construction began in 1652 to replace a church dedicated to St. Bartholomew (Iglesia de San Bartolomé). It was funded by tolls collected on the Magdalena River, and masonry and stonework were completed by Blas de Salas. The church, which is only open during services, features a central nave with two aisles. It was elevated to a cathedral on October 7, 1989. The parish house (curia) is attached to the left side.
Honda Social Club
A block behind the cathedral is the Honda Social Club (Club Social de Honda), where important social events took place during the city’s heyday. There was no information posted at the site.
Casa Galesa
At the top of Cuesta de Mister Owen on Calle 11 is Casa Galesa, which translates to Welsh House. This historic 18th century home was owned by David Hughes, whose ancestors were originally from Wales.
Birthplace of Alfonso Palacio Rudas
A block further east is the birthplace of Dr. Alfonso Palacio Rudas (1912-1996), who was born in this modest house on June 12, 1912. Rudas was a prominent lawyer and politician who served as Governor of Tolima and Mayor of Bogotá.
Birthplace of Antonio Herrán y Zaldúa
At the corner of Cuesta de San Francisco and Calle de las Trampas you’ll find the birthplace of Antonio Herrán y Zaldúa (1797-1868). He served as Archbishop of Bogotá during a tumultuous period in Colombian history, from 1854 until his death.
Plaza de Mercado
Plaza de Mercado (Market Square), was built between 1917 and 1935 by English engineer Harry Valsint. It occupies the former site of the Franciscan Convent of St. Bartholomew (Convento de San Bartolomé), which functioned for two centuries until it was destroyed by an earthquake in 1805.
The square building has 148 columns and 108 doors. Inside are four courtyards in each corner separated by a cross-shaped corridor in the center.
In 1921, the city council regulated the market. Shopkeepers were forbidden to sell to people with contagious diseases or in a state of intoxication, and it was illegal to sleep on the premises. To enforce these rules, two police officers were stationed there during market hours from 5am to 7pm.
Today, locals visit Plaza de Mercado to shop for fruits, vegetables, clothing, household goods, and much more. It can be quite hectic during working hours but it’s a great insight into local life.
Plaza de Las Américas
A few steps east is Plaza de Las Américas. It’s a pleasant space with a couple monuments, benches under tall shady trees, and colonial buildings.
Honda City Hall
The Honda City Hall (Alcaldía Municipal de Honda) dominates the west side of Plaza de Las Américas. The space has always held a town hall but the current structure was built between 1894 and 1898. In the past, it also held courtrooms, the town treasury, and a police station. The building took its current appearance during a renovation in the 1970s in which the cover on the façade was removed to expose the stones.
Alfonso López Pumarejo House Museum
Near the plaza is the Alfonso López Pumarejo House Museum (Casa Museo Alfonso López Pumarejo), which is open daily with free admission (as of June 2025). The house was built in the 17th century by Captain Bernardo Botero and later used by Manuel José Bonilla as a hardware store and warehouse.
Pedro Aquilino López Medina and Rosario Pumarejo Cotes purchased the house in the 19th century. Their son, Alfonso López Pumarejo (1886-1959), was born there. He went on to serve two terms as President of Colombia. A bust of López sits just inside the entrance.
During my visit, there was an exhibition on the ecological, social, and cultural significance of the Magdalena River swamp system. It highlighted the connection of river to the riverside communities that rely on traditional fishing techniques as a source of livelihood.
On the courtyard of the house is the Tolima School (Escuela del Tolima). It’s an example of schoolroom, complete with desks, books, and other items that would have been used in the late 19th and early 20th centuries.
Plaza Benjamín Herrera
Across the street is Plaza Benjamín Herrera. It’s a small park with a bust of politician Benjamín Herrera (1853-1924) in the center. It was sculpted by J.M. Agudelo.
Casa de los Conquistadores
A block south is the Casa de los Conquistadores (House of the Conquerors). It was named for Spanish conquistadors Gonzalo Jiménez de Quesada, Nicolás de Federmán, and Sebastián de Belalcázar by Mayor David Hughes on May 14, 1989, to honor the 450th anniversary of the “discovery” of Honda. The colonial building contains a well-preserved courtyard with arched corridors. Today, it houses a few municipal offices and also holds cultural events.
Calle del Retiro
Calle del Retiro is on the east end of the old town. It’s a scenic cobblestone street lined with a few important buildings.
Casa de los Virreyes
The Casa de los Virreyes (House of the Viceroys) is at the corner with Calle de las Trampas. It was built in the 18th century to host distinguished guests. It consists of a large central courtyard surrounded by rooms. Members of the Royal Botanical Expedition, led by José Celestino Mutis (1732-1808), stayed there.
Edificio Fayad
At the corner of Cuesta de los Herreros is Edificio Fayad. It was built in the early 20th century and was the first four-story building in Honda. It burned down on March 23, 1979, taking the lives of three people. The building is still in ruins today.
Farmacia Nueva Arturo Cerón F.
A few steps south is Farmacia Nueva Arturo Cerón F., which is the oldest pharmacy in Colombia. It opened for business in 1906 under Arturo Cerón Ferreira. He passed it down to his son, Manuel Arturo Cerón Bernate, who ran it until 1996. In 2005, a Russian architect and his Danish wife decided to restore the pharmacy to its original appearance. On some days, the shutters are open allowing passers-by to peek inside and see antique bottles and items used to make homemade medicines.
Casa del Sello Real
Finally, at Calle del Sello Real is the Casa del Sello Real. It was built in the early 18th century and likely functioned as a toll and customs house for the Spanish kingdom. There’s not much more information about it.
Magdalena River Museum
On the other side of Calle del Sello Real you’ll find the excellent Magdalena River Museum (Museo del Río Magdalena). It chronicles the history of riverboat excursions on the Magdalena River as well as the culture of the people who inhabit its shores. It’s open daily except Mondays. Admission is COP$12,000 for foreign adults, COP$5,000 for seniors and students, and free for kids under 10 (as of June 2025). Keep in mind all information is presented in Spanish.
The museum is housed in an 18th century warehouse, La Bodega El Retiro, that provided services to merchants shipping their goods on steamboats, canoes, and other riverboats. At the end of the 19th century, it became the headquarters of the Gendarmerie Barracks, followed by a library and municipal archive.
Exhibits at the Magdalena River Museum
The first section of the museum is a corridor with a mural of the entire path of the river. It lists all the towns and villages along the shores, images of important landmarks and people, and other rivers and tributaries that flow into it.
On the other side is an introduction to some of the animal species that call the river home as well as a few cultural artifacts.
The next room features sketches of objects and tools made by people living in rural communities along the river. They include items such as bowls, chairs, tables, and beds.
The largest room in the museum covers all aspects of the riverboat trips that took place during the 19th and 20th centuries, focusing on both passengers and cargo. There were 40 passenger steamboats operating at the beginning of the 20th century. The trips came to an end on January 17, 1961, when the David Arango caught fire in the port of Magangué.
Artifacts on display include items and luggage used by passengers taking riverboat trips, the types of goods exported via the Magdalena River, and the people who worked diligently behind the scenes to make these trips a reality.
The final room displays fossils and a few archaeological artifacts, such as pottery made by indigenous people living along the river.
Parque José Eusebio Suárez
Parque José Eusebio Suárez is on the east side of Honda along the Magdalena River. There are a few structures otherwise it’s a bit neglected.
Malecón
On the north side of the park is the Malecón, which is a promenade along the Magdalena River. It too was neglected during our last visit.
Bank of the Republic Cultural Center
Let’s leave the old town and cross Puente Agudelo to the north side of Río Gualí. At the end of the block you’ll find the Honda branch of the Bank of the Republic Cultural Center (Centro Cultural Banco de la República). It contains a library and space for periodic art and cultural exhibitions. It’s open Monday through Friday and admission is free (as of June 2025).
Edificio Nacional
Across the street is Edificio Nacional. It was built starting in 1926 and opened in January 1933. The reinforced concrete building has three floors. The first floor was intended to hold a post office and telegraph office while the second and third floors were for courtrooms, tax collection, a notary, and registry.
The iron doors, windows, and railings were imported from Barcelona and the tiles from Sevilla, reaching Honda by steamship. When it was first built, there was no sewage in this section of the city, so all drains from sinks and toilets were emptied directly into the Río Gualí.
Teatro Honda
A few steps north is Teatro Honda. It was built starting in 1939 and was one of five theatres in the city. The theatre featured dressing rooms for men and women, an orchestra pit, an entrance hall with a lobby, and two terraces overlooking the street. It had a capacity of 300 people for film screenings and live performances.
Plaza de la Independencia
On the next block north is Plaza de la Independencia, which took its name in 1907 to honor the independence of Colombia. It contains fountain as well as an obelisk dedicated on July 20, 1910. On the west side are street vendors selling drinks, snacks, and more.
Church of Our Lady of Mount Carmel
The Church of Our Lady of Mount Carmel (Iglesia de Nuestra Señora del Carmen) is on the south side of the plaza. It was built starting around 1936.
The church occupies the site of the first chapel in Honda, built in 1565 by the Franciscans and dedicated to St. Bartholomew. The chapel was replaced with the city’s first church, built by the Jesuits in 1620 and ruined during an earthquake in 1894.
Honda Railway Station
Finally, a couple blocks west of Plaza de la Independencia is the former Honda Railway Station (Estación de Ferrocarril de Honda). It was built in 1907 by the La Dorada Railway Company, which ran trains between La Dorada and Ambalema from December 15, 1881, to 1985.
The station was restored between 2023 and 2024 and converted into a cultural and educational center. Notice the impressive murals on the building across the street.
