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The small city of Cartago lies on the main road between Cali and Pereira. It’s not typically visited by foreigners.
Introduction to Cartago
Cartago is one of the oldest cities in Colombia, founded on August 9, 1540, by Spanish conquistador Jorge Robledo (1500-1546). It originally stood on the site now occupied by Pereira, but was transferred to its current location on April 21, 1691, because of threats from local indigenous groups.
The city contained a foundry for melting gold mined in the towns of Ansermanuevo, Toro, and Santiago de Arma. It was an important stop on the route between Cartagena and Popayán. After it moved to its current location, Cartago saw an increase in livestock farming. It was also a trading center for mining supplies and slaves.
After Colombian independence, Cartago was used as a military base. The city has been part of the department of Valle del Cauca since April 1, 1910.
There’s not much to detour travelers, but Cartago does have a few minor points of interest as well as some good restaurants. The biggest negative is that it’s uncomfortably hot.
Getting to Cartago
Any bus traveling between Cali and Pereira can make a stop in Cartago. From the Pereira bus terminal, 4 companies make the 30-minute direct trip every 10 to 15 minutes. They are Colectivos del Café, Coochoferes, Expreso Alcalá, and Tax Cartago. From Cali, the trip takes about two hours. There’s no bus terminal in Cartago. Each company has its own garage.
Getting Around Cartago
Cartago is a good sized city, but the main sights are within walking distance of each other. Nevertheless, getting around Cartago will involve a taxi at some point, especially if you need to get to restaurants further out from the city center. Also, if you need a bus to Cali or Pereira and aren’t sure where to get one, jump in a taxi and ask the driver to take you to one of the bus companies.
If you’re visiting Cartago on a Sunday, be aware that much of the city is shut down on that day. Most restaurants will be open, but many stores and the House of the Viceroy will be closed.
Where to Stay in Cartago
On all of our visits to the city, we’ve only stayed overnight once.
Hotel Boutique Colonial
Hotel Boutique Colonial is in the city center only a few blocks from Parque de Bolívar. It’s a cozy place with a friendly staff and a small pool, which is great for cooling off from the hot weather. Our room was small but comfortable. The bathroom was a little tight but it was fine for one night.
Where to Eat in Cartago
Cartago has some very good restaurants. We like to make the trip down once in a while to grab a bite to eat.
Brasas y Leños
Brasas y Leños is by far one of the best steak restaurants I’ve eaten at in Colombia. It’s located in a quiet residential area on the far west side of the city but is well worth the trek. On our first visit, we arrived a few minutes after it had opened and almost every table was already full. That was definitely a good sign!
The restaurant offers several different cuts of meat, including several premium American, Brazilian, and Argentinian cuts along with traditional Colombian steaks. I’ve had a t-bone and picanha while Marisol has had a ribeye and churrasco. All were juicy and cooked to perfection, and much bigger than expected. I can easily say it’s one of the best steakhouses I’ve been to in Colombia. Prices are more than reasonable for the quality and size of the steaks, and they’re a fraction of the price you would pay in the US.
Casa Vieja
A friend of Marisol’s recommended Casa Vieja, and we’ve eaten there twice since. It’s a long walk south of the main area of the city so a taxi may be necessary to get there.
Although it can be a bit expensive by Colombian standards, the food is excellent and worth the price. The menu is generally traditional Colombian food but with a creative twist. I’ve had a teriyaki Chilean salmon dish while Marisol has had the róbalo filet. We’ve both tried the cazuela de mariscos (seafood stew). All dishes came with arroz con coco (coconut rice) and were very tasty.
Mercado El Virrey
Just north of the House of the Viceroy is the Mercado El Virrey. It’s a food court with different restaurants serving a variety of different cuisines. There’s traditional Colombian, steak, seafood, Peruvian, and more, as well as a bar on the upper level and a café. The bar looks down on the pedestrianized Calle 13, where several historic buildings are located, including the House of the Viceroy.
We stopped into the café, Kumba, which is located right at the entrance. It’s definitely not the best coffee we’ve had, but service is friendly and it has a nice atmosphere.
Restaurante El Virrey
Across the street from the House of the Viceroy is the very simple Restaurante El Virrey. They serve traditional Colombian fare as well as lunch specials at reasonable prices. I had a chicken stew served with rice, beans, and a salad. The food isn’t that great.
Al Pacino Coffee Company
We stopped into Al Pacino Coffee Company for the name. The coffee wasn’t anything to write home about. It’s also located across from the House of the Viceroy.
Shopping in Cartago
We found a surprisingly nice mall.
Nuestro Cartago Mall
Nuestro Cartago Mall (Centro Comercial Nuestro Cartago) is west of the city center. It’s full of some very good stores for clothing, electronics, gifts, and much more. There’s also has a decent food court as well as some good full-service restaurants.
Parque de Guadalupe
Parque de Guadalupe is a good place to start exploring Cartago. It’s on the east end of the historic city center and has changed dramatically since my first visit to the city in 2015. At that time, there were trees and paths within the park.
By March 2021, the trees had been removed and the entire park was empty expect for a fountain in the back.
Chapel of Our Lady of Guadalupe
The wonderful little Chapel of Our Lady of Guadalupe (Capilla de Nuestra Señora de Guadalupe) is on the north end of the park. It has a classic colonial whitewashed exterior and is a Colombian national heritage site. The interior has a simple elegance to it that complements the exterior very nicely.
Casa Artesanal
The Casa Artesanal is on Parque de Guadalupe. It contains a café and craft workshops where you can purchase locally made goods. (Note: the pictures below are from the former location a block west.)
Parque La Isleta
Detouring north for a moment behind Our Lady of Guadalupe is Parque La Isleta. This large public park has basketball courts, a small skate park, benches, a playground, and different activities for children.
Parque Santander
Two blocks west of Parque de Guadalupe is Parque Santander. This small but pleasant park has a fountain in the center and a hotel on one end. There’s a nice historic building on the southeast corner.
Church Our Lady of Poverty
The Church of Our Lady of Poverty (Nuestra Señora de la Pobreza) is on the east side of the park. It was completed in 1786 and is also known as the Church of San Francisco (Iglesia de San Francisco). There’s a nice historic building across the street as well.
Parque de Bolívar
Another block west is the very large Parque de Bolívar. It’s the main square in Cartago and is filled with tall trees and benches. Street vendors sell their goods while children play with squirrels and visitors try to spot giant iguanas on the trees. In the center is a statue of Simón Bolívar (1783-1830), the liberator of several countries from Spain.
Church of San Jorge
On the south side of the Parque de Bolívar is the Church of San Jorge (Iglesia de San Jorge), which was completed in 1808. It isn’t as tall or grand as the other churches but has a nice façade with a bell tower.
House of the Viceroy
A block away down a pedestrianized street is the historic House of the Viceroy (Casa del Virrey). This colonial building is the only one of its kind in Cartago and is very important from an architectural standpoint.
It was constructed by Sebastián de Marisancena at the end of the 18th century to receive the Spanish viceroy of New Granada, José Manuel de Ezpeleta (1739-1823). To date, no document has been found to confirm the viceroy’s visit ever took place. The building was inspired by traditional Andalusian architecture, with Mudéjar influences. It’s made of mud brick and quarry stone.
Today, the building hosts a museum highlighting the history and cultural heritage of Cartago dating back to 1612. It’s typically open daily. General admission is COP$3,000 and free for kids under 7 and seniors over 70 (as of March 2025). There are four guided tours scheduled throughout the day.
Walking through the building, you’ll encounter a large courtyard, patios, and a garden. The rooms display paintings, documents, historic photographs, and other items. One part of the wall is cut away for you to see the original building materials.
Museum of Embroidery
On the next block west, the Museum of Embroidery (Museo del Bordado Calle Real) highlights one of the most important crafts in the city and offers different programs throughout the week. A small admission is charged and the museum is open daily. (Note: the museum moved to a new location on March 31, 2024. The photo below is of the former location.)
Cathedral of Our Lady of Mount Carmel
Finally, a block south is the Cathedral of Our Lady of Mount Carmel (Catedral de Nuestra Señora del Carmen). It was completed in 1944 in the Neoclassical style and is a replica of the Shrine of the Virgin of the Rosary in Pompei, Italy.
The cathedral is on a Greek cross plan with three naves and a high altar. There’s also a cemetery and a crypt. The tall bell tower is detached from the church.
The cathedral was originally a small chapel built in the middle of the 16th century to honor Our Lady of Mount Carmel. It houses a statue of the Virgin believed to have been brought from Spain in the 17th century. On January 22, 2012, a vial of blood of Pope John Paul II was displayed inside the cathedral.
Cartago City Hall
Not far away is the City Hall (Alcaldía). It is a beautiful building that we’ve driven past a few times. I haven’t been able to get a shot.
