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Buga is an important religious destination in Colombia and one of the country’s Heritage Towns.
Overview of Buga
Buga, one of Colombia’s prestigious Heritage Towns (Pueblos Patrimonio), isn’t usually on the international tourist radar. This small city of nearly 100,000 people draws over three million Catholic pilgrims each year to the Basilica of the Lord of Miracles.
The exact date Buga was founded is unknown, but it was originally located in the mountains. In 1555, the settlement moved to what is now the village of La Marina in present-day Tuluá and was named Nueva Jerez de los Caballeros. Pedro Fernández del Busto ordered the move, which was carried out by Giraldo Gil de Estupiñán.
Between 1557 and 1559, Buga moved again, this time to the foot of Cerro Pan de Azúcar, east of the current city. Governor Luis de Guzmán ordered the relocation, which Rodrigo Díez de Fuenmayor (1528–1599) carried out. The settlement was named Guadalajara de Buga, after the governor’s hometown. The name “Buga” comes from the Caribbean village of Bugabá, which means “place of the spear”.
The official foundation date is accepted as March 4, 1570, when Governor Álvaro de Mendoza y Carvajal renamed it Guadalajara de Nuestra Señora de la Victoria de Buga. In 1573, Governor Jerónimo de Silva ordered another move to the city’s current location, which Beltrán de Unzueta executed. The name was later shortened back to Guadalajara de Buga. Early residents focused on agriculture, especially cattle grazing, and many wealthy Spanish families settled in the city.
Buga has been a religious destination since the late 16th century, and its significance grew in the 18th century. The city played an important role in Colombia’s struggle for independence. It officially became a municipality on February 9, 1884, and was designated a Heritage Town in 2013.
Parque Lineal
Parque Lineal is probably the first space you’ll notice in Buga. This long pedestrian area stretches about five blocks, running from near the bus terminal to the front of the city’s famous basilica. On both sides, you’ll find shops selling souvenirs and religious items, a few restaurants, and some basic hotels.
My first visit to Buga was on a Sunday morning to see the basilica during mass. The crowd spilled out of the building and into Plazoleta Lourdes in front, creating a lively, bustling atmosphere.
Basilica of the Lord of Miracles
The Basilica of the Lord of Miracles (Basílica del Señor de los Milagros) is the obvious place to start exploring Buga. To avoid crowds, I recommend visiting in the middle of the week, steering clear of weekends and religious holidays.
The basilica was designed by German-born Ecuadorian priest Juan Bautista Stiehle (1829–1899), who worked on it around the same time as the Cathedral of Cuenca in Ecuador. Construction, led by German engineer Joseph Binder, began in 1892 and the church was inaugurated on August 22, 1907. Pope Pius XI granted it the title of Minor Basilica on July 12, 1937. The clock on the left tower was made in France and installed on March 18, 1909. The Redemptorists have administered the basilica since 1884.
The basilica is 33 meters high and 80 meters long, but you don’t truly get a sense of its size until you step inside the nave. Huge pillars with semicircular arches separate the nave from the aisles. The main altar features a striking altarpiece.
Altars dedicated to various devotions line both aisles of the basilica — four on the right and three on the left. A chapel sits at the end of the right aisle. Below, I’ve added photos in order, starting from the entrance:
Our Lord of the Miracles of Buga
The huge basilica was built to house an image of a crucified Christ, Our Lord of the Miracles of Buga (Nuestro Señor de Los Milagros de Buga). According to tradition, it was found floating in the Río Guadalajara in September 1573 by an indigenous woman who worked as a laundress. She took it home and set up a small shrine.
Originally pocket-sized, the image is said to have grown in size overnight. Word spread throughout the region, and by 1590, pilgrims were already coming to see it.
Today, the image is displayed in the apse behind the main altar, where pilgrims file past it. It sits behind bulletproof glass under a canopy supported by pillars.
Site of the Old Hermitage
Next door to the south, you’ll see the bell tower that remains from the old hermitage. Beside it, there’s a frame representing the church. After the image of Our Lord of the Miracles was found, a small adobe chapel with a thatched roof was built on the site. As the number of pilgrims grew over the years, the chapel was enlarged and repaired between 1718 and 1734, adding a nave with two aisles and a presbytery. The sacristy and a side chapel — where the image was kept until 1907 — were constructed in 1756.
The bell tower, which stands 18 meters high, was built between 1830 and 1834. It contains a bronze bell cast in Buga in 1885 as well as part of a cannon used during the Colombian War of Independence. Under the arch on the frame next to it is a sculpture depicting the woman discovering the image in the Río Guadalajara.
Lord of the Miracles Museum
Across from the basilica is the Lord of the Miracles Museum (Museo del Señor de los Milagros). It originally opened in 1978 inside the basilica to display objects related to the image of Our Lord of the Miracles. In 1990, the museum moved to its current locations, a Republican-style house with a central courtyard. It’s open daily and admission is free (as of January 2026).
The exhibit spans nine rooms, beginning with items from the old hermitage and a history of the Redemptorists. You’ll also see objects from early pilgrimages, from the 18th century to the present.
The next section features the knife that miraculously split into three pieces during an assassination attempt on Fr. Ernesto Uribe at the basilica’s main altar on March 4, 1956. In the following room, you’ll find a scale model of the basilica created by Elzer Javier Molina, donated to the museum in 2000.
A room of publications and posters related to the basilica and pilgrimages follows, along with items donated to the church in thanks for answered prayers. At the end of the museum is a full-scale model of Our Lord of the Miracles.
Returning to the courtyard at the end, you’ll see a display case with models of famous basilicas from around the world and two statues.
Carrera 14 in Buga
On the block north of the basilica, along Carrera 14, you’ll find a few points of interest.
Julián Mendoza Guerrero Institute
First is the Julián Mendoza Guerrero Institute (Instituto Julián Mendoza Guerrero), which belongs to the Diocese of Buga. Named for Monsignor Julián Mendoza Guerrero (1914–1984), the city’s first bishop, it was founded in 1987 to promote spiritual, human, and social development and provide theological education. The institute also offers psychological, social, and spiritual support to children and adolescents with special educational needs.
Episcopal See of the Diocese of Buga
At the end of the block is the Episcopal See of the Diocese of Buga (Casa Episcopál da la Diócesis de Buga). Donated to the Church by the Azcárate Rivera family on July 10, 1971, it houses the offices of the Diocese of Buga, which was established on June 29, 1966
Chapel of San Francisco
On the opposite corner is the Chapel of San Francisco (Capilla de San Francisco), the oldest surviving religious building in Buga. Completed in 1746 as the Chapel of Jesus of Nazareth (Capilla de Jesús Nazareno) thanks to a donation by Bernardo Fernández Rivera and Paula de Azcárate, it was originally administered by the Jesuits. The design is attributed to German Jesuit architect Simon Schenherr and includes an attached cloister.
The Jesuits were expelled from all Spanish territories by decree of King Carlos III in 1767, leaving the chapel empty for several years. The Franciscans took charge in 1807, restoring the building and giving it its current name. They administered it until their expulsion in 1863. In 1870, the tower was added, and the façade was redesigned. After the creation of the Diocese of Buga, the chapel was restored again between 1968 and 1971, and the diocese has administered it ever since.
Academic College Building
Attached to the rear of the church along Calle 5 is the former building of the Academic College (Colegio Académico). Its first occupant was the Jesuit College (Colegio de los Jesuitas), established on November 30, 1743, thanks to donations from Cristóbal Botín and María Lenis y Gamboa. Classes were taught there until 1767, when the Jesuits were expelled from all Spanish territories.
In 1859, the school reopened as the Academic College and was renamed Colegio Mayor de Buga in 1864. The school move to a new building in 1970, and the Buga branch of the University of Valle (Universidad del Valle) took over on October 6. 1986.
Parque José María Cabal
Continuing north down Carrera 14, yo’ll reach Parque José María Cabal, Buga’s main plaza since 1576. It received its current name on July 20, 1908, and was redesigned as a French-style park by architect by Enrique Figueroa Fernández, opening on August 6, 1924. The park features some very tall trees, a couple of monuments, and vendors selling juices and snacks. Apparently, iguanas sometimes hang out in the trees, though we didn’t see any during our visit.
Monument to José María Cabal
In the center of the park is a monument to Colombian independence hero José María Cabal (1769–1816). It features a bronze statue of Cabal, created by Italian sculptor Fernando Rubini. The statue stand on a marble pedestal. It was unveiled in 1926 and funded by public donations.
Cathedral of St. Peter the Apostle
The Cathedral of St. Peter the Apostle (Catedral de San Pedro Apóstol), also known as the Buga Cathedral (Catedral de Buga), stands on the south side of Parque José María Cabal.
The site was first occupied by a Jesuit church built between 1574 and 1616. Originally constructed of mud with a straw roof, it was strengthened and expanded over the years. That church was destroyed by an earthquake on July 9, 1766, and the Jesuits were expelled the following year.
The lot remained empty until October 13, 1769, when work on the current church began with financial backing from King Charles III of Spain. The church opened on December 30, 1775.
An important moment in Colombian history took place here on November 11, 1830, when a meeting was held to decide whether Cauca Grande would join Gran Colombia or Ecuador. The church was elevated to a cathedral with the creation of the Diocese of Buga on June 29, 1966.
The beautiful altarpiece, covered in gold and silver leaf, was made in 1786 by Sebastián Usiña of Popayán. Other niches and side altars were added between 1793 and 1801, and the sacristy was built in 1796.
Parish House
The building attached to the east of the cathedral is the Parish House (Casa Parroquial). This colonial building originally belonged to María Luisa Sánchez de la Espada, who passed it on to her daughters. It was later purchased by the Martínez family and eventually acquired by Fr. Jorge Salcedo to annex it to the parish.
Simón Bolívar (1783–1830) stayed in the house on January 11, 1822. Although the façade was rebuilt in 1928, the building still retains its original structure. Hanging from the walls in one room is a large iron ring that once held the ropes used to tie slaves during floggings.
Los Portales
Continuing counterclockwise around the park, on the east side is Los Portales. It was built on the site of the house of Spanish conquistador Rodrigo Díez de Fuenmayor (1528–1599), one Buga’s founders. The house was demolished at the end of the 19th century and replaced with the current structure, constructed between 1897 and 1909 by German engineer Joseph Binder. The building features an arcade facing the park, with shops and offices along the ground floor.
Palace of Justice
The Palace of Justice (Palacio de Justicia) stands on the north side of the park. The site originally housed the Cabildo (town council) and jail built in 1573, which was later replaced with a military headquarters in the late 18th century.
The military headquarters and three houses were demolished in August 1908 to make way for the current structure, built in the Neoclassical style by engineers Franklin White and Joseph Binder the following year. It initially served as Palace of Government (Palacio del Gobierno).
The building was restored around 1990 by architect Diego Salcedo Salcedo, and a modern expansion was added on an adjacent lot between 2017 and 2024. It currently houses the Buga Judicial District Supreme Court (Tribunal Superior del Distrito Judicial de Buga), the oldest in the country, founded on March 14, 1848, by Tomás Cipriano de Mosquera (1798–1878). The court is officially named after Buga native Manuel Antonio Sanclemente (1814–1902), the fifth President of Colombia.
House of Captain Luis Velásquez Rengifo
To the left is the House of Captain Luis Velásquez Rengifo (Casa del Capitán Luis Velásquez Rengifo). Also known as Casa Velásquez or Casa Zabala, it was one of the first houses built after Buga moved to its current location in 1573.
Constructed by the first mayor of Buga, Luis Velásquez Rengifo (1535–1612), the colonial structure was the only brick house in town and the finest two-story residence in the region for almost 200 years. Later owned by the Zabala family, the house was restored to its original appearance in projects carried out in 1986 and 1990. It currently houses the regional headquarters of the Attorney General of Colombia (Fiscalía General de la Nación).
College of St. Vincent de Paul
On the northwest corner of the park is the College of St. Vincent de Paul (Colegio San Vicente de Paul). Founded in 1889 by the Daughters of Charity of St. Vincent de Paul, it began as a school for girls. In its first year, 60 students learned grammar, arithmetic, cooking, and embroidery. Over time, it evolved into a basic high school and today offers technical training in health and nutrition, culture and tourism, and art.
Calle 6 in Buga
Walking east along Calle 6 from Parque José María Cabal takes you past several important buildings.
Church of Santo Domingo de Guzmán
The Church of Santo Domingo de Guzmán (Iglesia de Santo Domingo de Guzmán) is located a block east of the park at Carrera 3. One of Buga’s first churches, construction on the original building began in 1573 under the Dominicans and it was remodeled between 1592 and 1616.
The church collapsed during an earthquake in 1766 and was rebuilt in 1797. Enrique Figueroa Fernández carried out restoration work between 1928 and 1930, covering the original walls, ceilings, and pillars to give it a more Republican appearance.
Buga City Hall
Buga City Hall (Alcaldía de Guadalajara de Buga) sits next door to the Church of Santo Domingo de Guzmán. It was built around 1930 on the site of a 16th‑century Dominican convent that was demolished in 1919. The building was designed in the Republican style by Enrique Figueroa Fernández.
Casa de la Cultura
Continuing a couple of blocks east on Calle 6 is the very interesting Casa de la Cultura, which was founded on November 11, 1962, as a space for art exhibitions, performances, conferences, and study. It’s typically open daily and admission is free (as of July 2025).
The building was constructed in 1889 and was originally the home of Manuel Francisco Cabal Sinisterra and María Ignacia Cabal Concha. It now hosts five thematic exhibition rooms and features a pleasant patio with a fountain in the center.
We were given a tour of the exhibits currently on display, including Catholic vestments and models of the colorful windows and balconies of different towns in Colombia.
Leonardo Tascón Academy of History
On the next block east is the Leonardo Tascón Academy of History (Academia de Historia Leonardo Tascón). Founded on November 11, 1962, its mission is to recover, conserve, and share historical information about the city and region. Housed in a beautiful colonial building, it includes a museum, historical archive, and library. It’s typically open Monday through Friday and admission is free (as of December 2025).
Teatro Municipal Ernesto Salcedo Ospina
On the next block is the Teatro Municipal Ernesto Salcedo Ospina (Ernesto Salcedo Ospina Municipal Theatre). It’s named in honor of Ernesto Salcedo Ospina, a tenor from Buga who achieved success on the international stage.
Empresa del Teatro, created in 1896, needed a space to stage their performances. They commissioned architect Julio Sanclemente Soto to design the building, with construction beginning in 1918. It was inaugurated on March 1, 1922, and completed by Enrique Figueroa Fernández in 1925, blending Neoclassical and Republican styles.
Over time, the building was used as a movie theatre and eventually fell into disrepair. In 1960, the city acquired the structure to preserve it. Between 1986 to 1997, various activities caused further deterioration, resulting in its closure. Restoration began in 2007 and it reopened to the public on December 21, 2011, although some work was still unfinished at the time.
The theatre has a capacity of about 1,000 spectators and is fully equipped for artistic, theatrical, and musical performances. Four pairs of Tuscan columns support a large balcony. Figueroa, who remodeled it in 1929, added busts of Mozart, Beethoven, and Liszt to the façade.
Calle 1 in Buga
Calle 1 runs along the south end of Buga’s historic center, roughly following the path of the Río Guadalajara. From Carrera 12, we’ll walk west.
El Castillo
Cristina River Feudal Castle (Castillo Feudal Cristina Rivera), known simply as El Castillo, sits at the corner of Calle 1 and Carrera 12. It was built between 1910 and 1915 by Cristina Rivera Escobar, who wanted to create a replica of a European castle in her hometown.
The main tower rises 20 meters, and the inner courtyard features a patio with a fountain. Inside, period furniture complements a collection of medieval weapons and armor, along with a library and music room. The castle is also a popular setting for movies and television shows.
Parque Simón Bolívar
On the south side of town, you’ll find Parque Simón Bolívar, full of tall, leafy trees with paths and benches where you can sit and enjoy the surroundings. During the Colonial period, it was known as Paso de las Ánimas (Pass of the Souls) because slave women collecting water from the Río Guadalajara wore long white tunics. At night, their silhouettes made them look like lost souls wandering the area.
In 1910, for the 100th anniversary of Colombian independence, the park was officially named Alameda del Centenario (Centennial Grove). The layout we see today was designed in 1924 by Enrique Figueroa Fernández.
The park was renamed in 1930 to commemorate the 100th anniversary Simón Bolívar‘s death (1783–1830). A replica of the Bolívar monument at Bogotá‘s Plaza de Bolívar, by Italian sculptor Pietro Tenerani (1789–1869), was installed on the west end, and a bust of local author Luciano Rivera y Garrido (1846–1899) was added. The park was modernized in 2015.
Puente de la Libertad
Parque Simón Bolívar is the best place to view Puente de la Libertad (Liberty Bridge). The 200-meter-long (656-foot) bridge was designed by German architect Joseph Binder and built between 1897 and 1898. Made entirely of brick, it features seven stone arches crossing the Río Guadalajara.
Hostal del Regidor
Across the street, north of Parque Simón Bolívar, is the Hostal del Regidor, built between 1910 and 1915 by Joseph Binder. Originally conceived as a school, it was used as a convent by the Sisters of Charity in 1953. The ground floor became commercial space in 1965, and the upper floor was converted into living space. After restoration by local architects Diego Salcedo, Álvaro Márquez Saavedra, and Rodrigo Varela Ayora, it reopened as Hotel El Regidor.
Hotel Guadalajara
On the west side of the park is Hotel Guadalajara, built to meet Buga’s growing tourism needs. The Tourist Hotel Construction Company (Compañía Constructora del Hotel de Turismo S.A.) was formed on November 15, 1945, to launch the project.
The hotel was designed by Jorge E. Valbuena, who incorporated Republican features into the Colonial California–style architecture. Engineer Carlos Rentería Cabal supervised construction, and it opened on November 12, 1954.
If you’re not staying at the hotel, you can still enjoy the pool area with a day pass, which costs COP$39,000 per adult and COP$23,000 for kids ages 4–10 (as of December 2025), not including towels.
El Faro
A couple of blocks west of Hotel Guadalajara is El Faro. Designed by architect Jesús María Molina Vega, it was built between 1964 and 1969 and inaugurated as the Alejandro Cabal Pombo Monument (Monumento Alejandro Cabal Pombo). It honors Dr. Alejandro Cabal Pombo (1897–1950), a local lawyer and politician who championed the construction of a highway linking Buga to Buenaventura.
The monument fell into disrepair after being used for storage, and it was restored in 2001. The viewing platform reopened to the public, and landscaping, lighting, and benches were added to the small park surrounding it.
The monument stands 42 meters high. A spiral staircase of 132 steps leads up to the viewing platform, where you can enjoy spectacular views of the town and its surroundings. It costs COP$3,000 to climb (as of June 2025). The park sits along the Río Guadalajara.
West Side of Buga
If you head to the west edge of town, you’ll find a few additional points of interest.
Parque Ricaurte
Parque Ricaurte, named for Colombian independence hero Antonio Ricaurte (1786–1814), is a green space occupying the block between Carrera 17 and 18 and Calle 8 and 9.
Buga Cemetery
Across the street to the west is the Buga Cemetery (Cementerio de Buga), the town’s main burial ground, managed by the local Catholic diocese. High exterior walls surround the cemetery on all four sides, with towers at each corner. Inside, the grounds are divided into four sections containing graves and above-ground vaults, and vaults also line the interior of the walls.
Notable burials include local politician Dr. Alejandro Cabal Pombo (1897–1950), who’s buried just inside the entrance to the right. Behind his grave is a vault reserved for the community of the College of St. Vincent de Paul, while the Drivers’ Guild (Gremio de Motoristas) has its own vault across the path. Near the center of the cemetery is a vault for Artillery Battalion No. 3 (Batallón de Artillería No. 3).
Buga Railway Station
The Buga Railway Station (Estación del Ferrocarril de Buga) sits on Carrera 19, four blocks west of Parque José María Cabal. Construction began on April 23, 1920, and it opened on August 7, 1921. Owned by the Pacific Railway Company (Compañía del Ferrocarril del Pacífico), it included ticket offices and waiting rooms for first- and second- class passengers.
Regular passenger service between Buga and Cali was suspended in May 1990 after the collapse of the railway company. Service briefly resumed in 1996 but didn’t last. Tourist trains operated in the early 2000s until 2012, when financial difficulties forced their cessation. Local reports suggest a tourist line between Palmira and Buga may open in late 2026 (as of November 2025).
Planning Your Trip to Buga
Here’s some practical info to help you plan your trip to Buga:
How to Get to Buga
You can get to Buga by bus from several nearby cities: Cali (about 1 hour), Pereira’s bus terminal (about 2½ hours), or the town of Darién on Lago Calima (about 1 hour) via TransCalima. If you’re doing a day trip, especially on a Sunday or a religious holiday, I recommend booking return tickets as soon as you arrive. Both times we used public transportation, we had to wait about two hours for a bus that wasn’t full.
The bus terminal in Buga is a few blocks from Parque Lineal, which is a straight shot to the basilica. To avoid walking in the heat, you can also take a taxi into town.
Where to Stay in Buga
On our three visits to town, we’ve only stayed overnight once.
Hotel Guadalajara
The historic Hotel Guadalajara is one of the best in town. It’s a beautiful property with a wonderful staff, and we really enjoyed our stay.
Although the rooms are simple, they’re spacious, comfortable, and quiet. Our room was very clean and had good air conditioning — a must in Buga. It came equipped with a flat-screen TV and mini fridge.
The pool is a great space to unwind, and you’ll find jacuzzis at the back of the property. You can order drinks poolside. Breakfast is served in the veranda off the pool.
You’ll find a restaurant next to the lobby. They offer a good variety of dishes — we ordered the Mexican soup for room service. The conference room often holds special events and meetings.
Where to Eat in Buga
We’ve only had one meal on our visits to town.
Don Karlos del Río
I’ve had lunch twice at Don Karlos del Río at their branch along the Río Guadalajara — they also have another location on Carrera 7. It’s a popular spot and the line can be long, but it moves quickly. Prices are very reasonable, service is great, and the food is delicious.
There are only a few items on the menu — ribs, chicken, pork, and steak — and the platters are enormous. On one visit with a group of eight, we ordered the picada, which comes with chuleta de cerdo (breaded pork cutlets), chuleta de pollo (breaded chicken cutlets), costillas (ribs), fries, arepa, and salad. The server said it was good enough for six but it fed our entire group of eight — and there were even leftovers!
On another visit, we ordered a personal platter of ribs and chuleta de pollo. I say personal, but it’s enough for four. Both came with a small salad and plenty of fries and rice — enough to feed an army. Either come with a big group or a ridiculous appetite — it’s overkill.
Holy Water Ale Café
Holy Water Café is about a block from the basilica. The first craft brewery in Valle del Cauca, it was opened in 2011 by German traveler Stefan Schnur and his partners, Clinton Johnson and Isaac Ashlind.
We stopped in for dinner, starting with the baba ganoush, which wasn’t authentic at all. The pizza, on the other hand, was alright. I had the funghi pizza, topped with mushrooms, tomatoes, and mozzarella. The best part of the meal was the German apple pie. I didn’t care too much for the beer.
Santuario Pub
On the opposite corner is Santuario Pub. It’s a rock bar and café with friendly service and a good atmosphere, and they often have live music. The coffee is very good.
Piantato Café
Piantato has a few locations in Buga — we visited the Regidor branch twice. They have excellent coffee and great service.
