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Buenaventura is a seedy port city on Colombia’s Pacific coast. It’s not a touristic destination.
Introduction to Buenaventura
Buenaventura is not a place you want to stick around for too long. First of all, it’s loud, dirty, ugly, and can be dangerous. Secondly, there’s very little to see. Why would anyone want to go there? It’s the gateway to Uramba Bahía Málaga National Park and the beach town of Ladrilleros, which are only accessible by boat.
Buenaventura was originally inhabited by the indigenous Buscaja people. A settlement was founded on July 14, 1540, by Spanish explorer Juan Ladrillero (b. c. 1490-1574) but it was destroyed before the 17th century. The first port was set up around 1819 and Buenaventura officially became a city on July 26, 1827. Construction on the railroad connecting the city to Cali began on July 18, 1833, and the road in 1836. The port didn’t thrive until after the opening of the Panama Canal in 1914.
The city has since become an important international port, accounting for nearly 60% of all Colombian imports and exports by sea. Unfortunately, this has also attracted drug trafficking and the presence of gangs, paramilitary groups, and guerrillas.
Getting to Buenaventura
To get to Buenaventura, the easiest way is to go through Cali. Buses leave every 10 to 15 minutes and have three levels of service. Camionetas are the fastest and most comfortable, but also the most expensive.
The run-down bus terminal isn’t too far from the Touristic Wharf. We arrived from Cali at about 8pm to see the terminal completely shuttered. A sign indicated that it closes daily at 6pm. When going to your hotel or the Touristic Wharf, it’s best to take a taxi for your own safety.
To get back to Cali, a shared taxi is a great alternative to the bus. Taxi drivers will offer rides as you return from the boats at the Touristic Wharf. They’re definitely faster and more comfortable than the bus.
Where to Stay in Buenaventura
We spent the night in the city before our trip to Ladrilleros.
PlazaMar Pacifico Hotel
We chose to stay at the PlazaMar Pacifico Hotel (former Ofihotel Plazamar). It’s located right in front of the seaside park and next to the administration building, just a short walk from the Touristic Wharf. It’s a beacon of hope in an otherwise dreary city.
The rooms are spacious and bright with comfortable beds and big bathrooms. WiFi is excellent, staff is attentive, and there are plenty of restaurants a few steps from the door. It was a great deal for the price.
Where to Eat in Buenaventura
We had two meals during our short stay in the city.
Palo Alto
For dinner on the night we arrived, we ate across the street from the hotel at Palo Alto. This very informal and simple restaurant serves excellent smoked meats at reasonable prices. We shared a picada of chorizo, lamb, and ribs with two beers and a bottle of water for a very fair price.
El Faro
For breakfast the next morning, we ate at El Faro a block from our hotel. They have a nice variety of egg dishes and combos including coffee or hot chocolate. Service is fast and friendly. We both had a combo with huevos llaneros, which is two fried eggs and two chorizos.
Malecón Bahía de la Cruz
On our short overnight stay, we were hoping to visit the Malecón Bahía de la Cruz, which is considered the most scenic part of the city. It was completely gutted in preparation for a major renovation.
City Administration Building
In front of the park is the city administration building, which has a huge mural on the side. The streets we walked on around it are nothing special.
Touristic Wharf
The place in Buenaventura that sees the most visitors is the Touristic Wharf (Muelle Turístico), which handles all the boat traffic to towns and villages on the Pacific coast. Again, it’s nothing special. At the beginning of the pier are offices for many companies offering boat service. In the mornings, especially on weekends, it’s quite hectic.
Further along there’s a row of ramshackle restaurants sitting on wooden piles and a partially collapsed concrete pier. I can’t speak for the quality of the food, but if this is touristic, I’m definitely missing something.
The pier ends where all of the boats are waiting to take passengers to their destinations on the Pacific. Boats typically leave for Juanchaco every few hours throughout the day, but there are more departures on weekends and holidays when Caleños escape to the coast.
