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Zvartnots Cathedral, just outside Etchmiadzin (Vagharshapat), is an important archaeological site in Armenia.
Visiting Zvartnots Cathedral
The archaeological site is located on the road between Yerevan and Etchmiadzin. It’s open daily except Mondays. Admission is ֏1,500 per person (as of October 2024) and includes entry to the small on-site museum.
History of Zvartnots Cathedral
Zvartnots Cathedral, dedicated to St. Gregory the Illuminator, was built during the reign of the Armenian Catholicos Nerses III the Builder. It sat on the site of a meeting between the St. Gregory and King Tiridates III. Construction began in 643 and it was consecrated in 652. Work continued until 659 under Anastas Akoratsi.
Nerses III was convinced that Zvartnots Cathedral would stand for 1,000 years, which was, at the time, the predicted date for the Second Coming of Christ. Unfortunately, the cathedral only survived for another 300 years before it collapsed in the 10th century.
While an earthquake is generally understood to have caused the collapse, there’s another theory about what contributed to its demise. Some historians believe that during invasions by the Arabs, they removed some of the weight-bearing cornerstones. Over time, this caused the structure to gradually lose strength, thus accelerating its fate.
Post-Collapse
Since the collapse, the closest attempt to replicate Zvartnots Cathedral was Gagikashen. It was built in the city of Ani (now in Turkey) in the early 11th century and was designed by Trdat the Architect. It too later collapsed. More recently, the Holy Trinity Church in Yerevan, designed by architect Baghdasar Arzoumanian (1916-2001), was completed in 2003.
The cathedral complex fell into obscurity until excavations took place under Khachik Dadian between 1901 and 1907. He uncovered the foundations of the cathedral as well as the Patriarchal Palace and a winery. He also found the remains of structures dated to the 7th century BC during reign of Urartian King Rusa II. Reconstructions have taken place gradually since the 1940s.
Zvartnots Cathedral was named a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 2000 along with the cathedral and churches of Etchmiadzin.
Features of Zvartnots Cathedral
Zvartnots Cathedral was designed with a circular tetraconch layout. It sits on a 2-meter high platform. The structure is believed to have had three levels that appeared circular from a distance. The exterior of the lowest level had 32 sides, the second level had 16, and the third level had 8.
The cathedral was roughly 35.75 meters in diameter and 49 meters high. The walls were about 1 meter thick and there were 5 entrances. A circular aisle 3.8 meters wide separated the outer wall from the tetraconch. The heart of the structure was supported by 4 pylons set 10.5 meters apart, and the second level rested on a base formed by 8 arches from the first level.
The lower level was decorated with reliefs of grape vines, rocks, and pomegranates. The upper part of the façade featured reliefs of 32 individuals, both spiritual and secular. Only nine have survived, and just one has a name inscribed – Hovhan. It can be seen at the museum.
As for the interior, frescoes decorated the eastern altar, inner chancels, and lintels. There were also several sculptures throughout.
Patriarchal Palace
In addition to the cathedral, you can also wander through the remains of the Patriarchal Palace. It was situated on the southeast corner of the cathedral. Nerses III, who lived and worked there, had it relocated to Zvartnots after the Arab occupation of Dvin.
The palace has two rectangular wings. The west wing contained the Hall of Columns, which was a banquet hall. It also had a summer hall as well as an arched winter hall. The east wing consisted of living quarters, a bathhouse, a 4th or 5th century church, and a pillared hall with a view to the cathedral.
Bathhouse
The bathhouse was at the east end of the palace. It consisted of public and private rooms. The public rooms were most likely used by laypeople and lower-level clergy while private rooms were reserved for high-ranking officials. The bathhouse used a hypocaust system to heat the rooms. Water was brought in from springs in the nearby hills using a network of clay pipes, some of which can be seen today.
Zvartnots Museum
The small Zvartnots Museum, behind the Patriarchal Palace, helps add context to your visit. It’s also air-conditioned and a great way to get out of the heat for a bit.
The first gallery of the museum presents the history of Zvartnots Cathedral, complete with a scale model and renderings of the building.
The second gallery delves into the details of the cathedral’s construction. It displays valuable fragments of the building, such as a sundial, mosaic tiles, and the only surviving relief panel with a named figure. There are also artifacts unearthed during excavations.
Cuneiform Inscription of Rusa II
Outside the museum, don’t miss the 7th century BC cuneiform inscription of Urartian King Rusa II. It was found at the southern entrance to the cathedral during the first excavation of the site between 1901 and 1907. It contains valuable information about the area in the 7th century BC.
The inscription reads:
The stone statue of God Khaldi, the owner, was constructed by Rusa, the son of Argishti. With the power of Khaldi, Rusa, the son of Argishti, says: ‘The land of Quarlin Valley was uncultivated, and there was nothing there. I planted this vine as Khaldi had ordered. I created a brand new, fruit-bearing garden. I resettled the city with new people. I constructed a canal from the river named Umeshini. As soon as the valley would start to irrigate, we shall sacrifice a goat in the name of Khaldi; we shall sacrifice a sheep in the name of Teisheba and another one for Shivini and Aniku!’
Rusa, the son of Argishti, is an almighty king. He is the king of the space, the king of the land of Biaini (Urartu). He is the king of kings, the owner of the city of Tushpa. Rusa, the son of Argishti, says: ‘Whoever destroys this cemetery, whoever breaks, whoever tries to evict it or tries to cover it with sand or throw it into water. Whoever tries to say “I have constructed all of this,” whoever tires of erasing my name by putting his name here, be it a Biainian (Urartian) or an enemy, shall be punished by Khaldi, Teisheba, Shivini and all other Gods who shall erase his name, his family, and his descendants from the Earth.
