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Vagharshapat (Վաղարշապատ), more commonly known as Etchmiadzin (Էջմիածին), is the spiritual capital of Armenia and the headquarters of the Armenian Apostolic Church. It’s also spelled Echmiadzin of Ejmiatsin.
Introduction to Etchmiadzin
Vagharshapat has been inhabited since the 3rd millennium BC and was first mentioned by Urartian King Rusa II as Kuarlini (Կուարլինի). It was later called Artimed (Արտիմէդ) and renamed Vardgesavan (Վարդգէսաւան) after it was rebuilt by Prince Vardges Manouk sometimes between 570 and 560 BC.
In the first half of the 2nd century, it was renamed Vagharshapat. It served as the capital of the Kingdom of Armenia from 120 to 336. After Christianity was adopted as the state religion, the name changed colloquially to Etchmiadzin after the Mother Cathedral.
In 428, Vagharshapat fell to the Persians and the Mother See transferred to Dvin in 452. The first manuscript library of Armenia was founded there in 480. The Romans took over most of Armenia in 587, and it was conquered by the Arabs in 658. The Bagratid Kingdom of Armenia controlled the city between the 9th and 11th centuries, followed by the Byzantines in 1045 and the Seljuks in 1064. It became part of the Ilkhanate of the Mongol Empire in the middle of the 13th century was ruled by the Aq Qoyunlu in the last quarter of the 14th century.
In 1441, the Mother See returned to Vagharshapat from Sis (in current-day Turkey). The Persians took over in 1502 and ruled until 1828, with short periods of Ottoman rule between 1578 and 1603 and again between 1722 and 1736. Russian rule began on February 21, 1828, and Armenia enjoyed a brief period of independence between 1918 and 1920 before becoming part of the Soviet Union.
Between 1945 and 1995, the town was officially called Etchmiadzin. In 2000, the cathedral and churches of Etchmiadzin, along with Zvartnots Cathedral, were declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
St. Hripsime Church
First of all, on the entrance to the city from Yerevan, is the St. Hripsime Church. It’s one of the oldest surviving churches in Armenia. It was built around 618 by Catholicos Komitas I Aghtsetsi (d. 628) over the mausoleum of St. Hripsime.
The church is on a cruciform tetraconch plan with four chambers. It measures 22.8 x 17.7 meters (75 x 58 feet). The portico was added in 1653 and the bell tower in 1790.
The 16-sided dome has a diameter of 9.4 meters (31 feet) and 12 windows. It’s about 23 meters (75 feet) from the floor to the underside of the dome.
Crypt at St. Hripsime Church
The tomb of St. Hripsime is in a simple underground barrel-vaulted chamber under the eastern apse. The entrance is through the chamber on the northeastern corner of the church. The current tombstone dates to 1986, and stones used during her torture are on display.
Hripsime belonged to a community of nuns in Rome led by abbess Gayane. According to 5th century Armenian historian Agathangelos, Hripsime was to be forcefully wed to Roman Emperor Diocletian. She fled to Armenia along with Gayane and roughly 38 nuns.
Armenian King Tiridates III, who was at that time a pagan, discovered where the nuns were hiding. He fell in love with Hripsime and later Gayane. After they refused his advances, Hripsime was tortured and martyred at the site of the church, while Gayane was tortured and martyred where the St. Gayane Church was built. The other nuns were martyred at the location of Shoghakat Church, except for St. Nino, who fled and spread Christianity in Georgia.
St. Gregory the Illuminator built a martyrium at the site immediately after Tiridates III converted to Christianity. It was destroyed by Sasanian King Shapur II around 363. Catholicos Sahak the Great (c. 350 – c. 438) replaced it in 395.
St. Gayane Church
The St. Gayane Church is immediately south of the Mother See of Holy Etchmiadzin. It’s named for St. Gayane, the aforementioned nun tortured and martyred on the site by King Tiridates III in 301. St. Gregory the Illuminator built a martyrium shortly after the conversion of Tiridates to Christianity.
The current church was built between 630 and 641 and underwent several architectural changes over the centuries. The current look has been unchanged since 1683. You’ll find a cemetery and fountain on the grounds of the church, which was an important religious and scientific center in the Middle Ages.
The triple-arched portico was built in 1683 as a burial place for prominent Armenian clergymen. A fresco features on the tympanum above the entrance to the church.
St. Gayane Church is a three-nave domed basilica. The semi-circular apse on the eastern side is flanked by rectangular chambers.
The tomb of St. Gayane is in the crypt underneath the apse. It features a fresco of St. Gayane standing next to Christ while the other martyred nuns are depicted below.
Mother See of Holy Etchmiadzin
The Mother See of Holy Etchmiadzin is the headquarters of the Armenian Apostolic Church. The large 41-acre complex in the heart of town consists of churches, monastic residences, schools, administrative buildings, museums, and memorials. I’ll cover several elements starting from the main gate and working my way throughout the complex.
Gate of St. Gregory the Illuminator
The Gate of St. Gregory the Illuminator, the main entrance to the Mother See, sits at the eastern end of the complex. It was built in 2001 to commemorate the 1700th anniversary of the declaration of Christianity as the state religion of Armenia. It was designed by architects Jim Torosyan and Romeo Julhakyan and sponsored by Louise Manoogian Simon.
The eastern façade features reliefs of Gregory the Illuminator and King Tiridates III. A 3-meter-high cross sits on the arch between them. On the western façade are reliefs of Apostles Thaddeus and Bartholomew, who spread Christianity in Armenia.
Open Altar of King Tiridates III
The Open Altar of King Tiridates III was built along with the gate. The blessing of the Holy Muron, the blessing of the grapes, the blessing of the pomegranates, and other ceremonies are performed there.
Gevorkian Theological Seminary
Immediately north of the gate is the Gevorkian Theological Seminary, which was built starting on May 18, 1869, and opened on September 28, 1874. It closed in December 1917 and reopened in the Old Library on the courtyard in 1945. On September 18, 1997, the seminary returned to its original building. While the seminary was away, the building was used as the Etchmiadzin Art Gallery, which was established in 1970.
Replica Khachkars of Aparan Monastery in Derjan
Nearby are replica khachkars from the Aparan Monastery in Derjan (near modern-day Tercan, Turkey). They were erected in 2015 and created by sculptor Ludvig Ghazaryan. They stand 6 meters high and weigh 14 tons. The originals were built in 1191 and 1194.
Yeremyan Building
The khachkars sit in front of the Yeremyan Building. It was built between 1892 and 1893 as a monastic residence and served as such until 1920 when the Soviets converted it to a hostel. It became a monastic residence once again in the 1950s and was replaced by the adjacent New Residence of the Seminary in 2000. The Yeremyan Building was renovated between 2013 and 2015 and now holds a temporary residence for visiting guests and faculty as well as administrative offices. The New Residence can house about 120 students.
Holy Archangels Church
Holy Archangels Church is in the courtyard of the Gevorkian Theological Seminary. Construction started on September 9, 2007, and it was consecrated on November 5, 2011. It was designed by Jim Torosyan and the benefactor was Gagik Galstyan.
Printing House
Immediately south of the Yeremyan Building is the Printing House. Construction started on April 6, 1888, and it was completed the following year. The architect was Mikael Salabekyants. It was renovated between 1959 and 1962 and given to the Academy of Sciences of the Armenian Soviet Socialist Republic. The building was returned to the Mother See in June 1991, when it was renovated and equipped with modern printing equipment.
Agape Refectory
Continuing south is the Agape Refectory, which was built in 1766. During the Soviet period, it was used as a souvenir shop and foreign exchange house. It has been used as a restaurant since 2012. We stopped in for some cold drinks.
Vatche and Tamar Manookian Library
Opposite is the Vatche and Tamar Manookian Library. It opened on October 18, 2012, after several years of construction. It also serves as a manuscript repository, research center, and conference center. The architect was Artak Ghulyan, who combined traditional and modern Armenian architectural styles. The collection includes the first bible printed in Armenian, printed in Amsterdam in 1666. The library is open to the public Monday through Friday, and guests must register with a passport.
Brotherhood Cemetery
The Brotherhood Cemetery is on the southeast side of the complex. It dates back to the 16th century, and there are around 650 tombstones.
Katnaghbyur
It’s finally time to enter the courtyard of the Mother See, taking the path between the Yeremyan Building and Printing House. On the lefthand side, you’ll see Katnaghbyur, or Milk Spring, which was unveiled in 1967 and designed by R. Israelian. The monument was donated by Armenian-American Stepan Ter-Grigoryan in memory of Rev. Fr. Grigor Parsyan; his grandfather, Avag; and his parents, Manuk and Aziz Ter-Grigoryan.
Mother Cathedral of Holy Etchmiadzin
Directly in the center of the garden is the Mother Cathedral of Holy Etchmiadzin, which is considered the oldest cathedral in the world. The original church was built between 301 and 303 by Gregory the Illuminator near the palace of King Tiridates III. It was a rectangular three-nave vaulted basilica with a four-sided dome.
The Mother Cathedral was completely rebuilt in 483/4 by Vahan Mamikonian (c. 440/445 – 503/510) after it was damaged by a Persian invasion. The reconstruction gave it its current form of a cruciform church with four chambers and central dome. This design revolutionized Christian architecture and spread through Europe in the 9th through 11th centuries.
The cathedral was damaged during raids by the Arabs, Mongols, and Seljuks. The name Etchmiadzin was first used in the 13th century by Metropolitan Archbishop Stepanos Orbelian (c. 1250-1260 – 1303).
Features of the Mother Cathedral
The cathedral measures 33 x 30 meters (108 x 98 feet). It was built with gray stone with 17th century additions of red stone. There are reliefs on the northern wall as well as Greek inscriptions. The current dome, which dates back to the 17th century, is roughly 34 meters (112 feet) high. The 12-sided drum contains medallions with reliefs of the Twelve Apostles. Outside the entrance are several graves.
The bell tower was added in the 17th century and was painted by Stepanos Lehatsi (Stephen of Poland) in 1664. It once housed a bell with Tibetan Buddhist inscriptions, but it disappeared without a trace in the 1930s during the Soviet period.
The interior, which I was unable to visit because of extensive renovations, is covered in frescoes of Old Testament scenes and Armenian saints. Many were painted by Naghash Hovnatan (1661-1722) between 1712 and 1721. Others are the work of Hakob, Harutyun, and Hovnatan Hovnatanyan in the 18th century, followed by their descendants Mkrtum and Hakob in the 19th century. The wooden doors were carved in Tbilisi, Georgia, in 1889.
Deacon’s Residence
The south side of the courtyard contains the Deacon’s Residence. It was built in 1750 and rebuilt and renovated several times over the next few centuries. The Ruben Sevak Museum, which opened on September 10, 2013, operates on the first floor. Admission is ֏500 for foreigners (as of February 2025) and it’s open Tuesday through Sunday.
Monuments in the Courtyard
In the middle of the courtyard, north of the Mother Cathedral, are two monuments. The one to the left is Martyred. It was created by R. Israelian to honor the memory of the victims of the Armenian Genocide. It was unveiled in 1965 and includes relics of Genocide victims from Deir ez- Zor underneath.
The monument to the right is Khrimyan Sherep, which was donated by Iranian-Armenian Mihran Bukhanyan in memory of Catholicos Mkrtich I Khrimyan (1820-1907). It was created by Areg Israelyan and inaugurated on October 12, 1982. The fountain monument is an obelisk topped by a sculpture of an eagle.
St. Vardan and St. John the Baptist Chapel-baptistry
St. Vardan and St. John the Baptist Chapel-baptistry is on the north side of the courtyard just past the monuments. It was donated by Armen Sarkissian and his wife Dr. Karine Sarkissian, and the architect was Jim Torosyan.
The chapel serves as the baptistry for the Mother See and was consecrated on September 26, 2008. It’s built of pink and gray tuff.
Old Library
The Old Library, which was built between 1908 and 1911, is on the northeast side of the courtyard. It was designed by architect P. Zohrabyan and was originally supposed to serve as storage for manuscripts of the Armenian Church. The collection was moved to Matenadaran in Yerevan during the Soviet period. From 1945 to 1997, classes of the Gevorkian Theological Seminary were held there. The building was expanded in 1983 under architect A. Galikyan, who added two floors on the north side, a new entrance, and a bathroom on the west side.
Gate of King Tiridates III
The Gate of King Tiridates III is on the west side of the courtyard. It was built between 1629 and 1632 and restored in 1962 by architect A. Galikyan.
Pontifical Residence
Behind the gate are the grounds of the Pontifical Residence, which was built between 1910 and 1914. Unfortunately, due to the Armenian Genocide, it instead functioned as a military hospital and sheltered refugees and orphans.
During the First Republic of Armenia from 1918 to 1920, it was converted to a barracks, and in 1920, it was confiscated by the Soviets. They returned the building to the Mother See in 1957 and it was renovated between 1958 and 1962. Finally, on September 30, 1962, it officially became the Pontifical Residence.
Old Residence
The Old Residence is on the southwest side of the courtyard. It was built between 1738 and 1741 as the Pontifical Residence. It was converted to a museum in 1968.
Treasury Museum
The Treasury Museum houses the most important relics and works of art belonging to the Mother See as well as church accessories, vestments, and items of Armenian cultural and national heritage. Admission is ֏2000 for foreign adults (as of February 2025) and it’s open Tuesday through Sunday.
During my visit, the museum was located in a temporary space due to renovations, with limited items on display. I’m not exactly sure how the museum is set up during normal operations, but a guide led us to the Khrimyan Museum building in the courtyard of the Pontifical Residence. She gave us a short introduction to the most important items and gave us some free time to admire them for ourselves.
Treasury Museum Collection
The most important relics in the museum are pieces of the True Cross, the Holy Lance that was once kept at Geghard Monastery, and a piece of wood purportedly from Noah’s Ark.
The cultural items, such as carpets, are impressive, as are the handwritten gospels and other ecclesiastical items from the Armenian diaspora.
Khrimyan Museum
The treasury was on display in the Khrimyan Museum. It was built in 1896 and served a short time as a museum until it was confiscated by the Soviets. The building was returned to the Mother See in 1957 and it was used as a warehouse. It was renovated in 2007 and is once again a museum.
Khoren Der Harootian Museum
The Khoren Der Harootian Museum, housed in the former Etchmiadzin Cinema, is opposite the Gate of St. Gregory the Illuminator. It’s a branch of the National Gallery of Armenia that displays works by artist Khoren Der Harootian (1909-1991). Admission is free (as of February 2024). We didn’t have a chance to visit.
