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The New Mosque (Yeni Cami) is one of the most beautiful mosques in Istanbul, Turkey. It’s located in Eminönü next to the Spice Bazaar.
History of the New Mosque
Construction on the New Mosque began in 1597 as the Valide Sultan Mosque (Valide Sultan Camii). It was commissioned by Safiye Sultan (c. 1550-1621), the wife of Sultan Murad III and mother of Mehmed III. The original architect was Davud Ağa (c. 1540-1599), an apprentice of Mimar Sinan (1490-1588), but he died in 1599 and was replaced by Dalgıç Ahmed Ağa (d. 1608).
The mosque was controversial from the start for displacing many Jewish residents in one of the most important commercial centers of Constantinople. Furthermore, the Janissaries believed it was an unnecessary expense and to make matters worse weren’t exactly fond of Safiye Sultan. When Mehmed III died in 1603, his successor, Ahmed I, had no interest in completing the mosque. Ahmed I went on to build the extravagant Blue Mosque while Safiye Sultan was forced to give up her project.
The construction project fell into ruins and was severely damaged in a fire that started on July 24, 1660. Since many neighborhoods were destroyed in the fire, Mustafa Ağa, the imperial architect, suggested to Turhan Hatice Sultan (c. 1627-1683), the chief consort of Sultan Ibrahim and mother of Mehmed IV, that the mosque be completed as a work of charity for the public.
The mosque project was renewed at the end of 1660 and it was finally completed in 1663. It was inaugurated in 1665 as the New Valide Sultan Mosque (Yeni Valide Sultan Camii) and eventually shortened to New Mosque. Stone blocks from the island of Rhodes were used in its construction.
Features of the New Mosque
The New Mosque has several interesting features, both architectural and aesthetic.
Courtyard of the New Mosque
The New Mosque contains a courtyard on the west side. It measures 39 metres (128 feet) on each side with a monumental entrance to the west.
In the center of the courtyard is an ornamental ablutions fountain (şadırvan). The actual ablutions fountain is on the exterior south wall.
The inner courtyard is bordered by a colonnaded peristyle on all four sides. A total of 24 domes top the peristyle. The underside of each dome is decorated with geometric patterns.
The wall under the east peristyle is decorated with fine Iznik tiles. The entrance to the prayer hall is under a muqarnas niche.
Prayer Hall of the New Mosque
The prayer hall is square in shape and measures 41 meters (135 feet) on each side. It’s decorated with blue, green, and white Iznik tiles.
On the rear and sides of the mosque is a marble colonnade connected by arches. The muezzin’s loge sits in front of the entrance. Notice the tile panel featuring Mecca attached to one of the pillars of the muezzin’s loge.
Domes of the New Mosque
The mosque has 66 domes and semi-domes. The central dome is 36 meters (118 feet) in height and 17.5 meters (57 feet) in diameter. It sits on four semi-domes supported by four pillars and is based on the Şehzade Mosque, which was built by Mimar Sinan.
Sultan’s Pavilion
The Sultan’s Pavilion (Hünkâr Kasrı) is attached to the northeast corner of the New Mosque. It was commissioned by Safiye Sultan as part of the New Mosque complex in 1597.
The Sultan’s Pavilion was completed by Turhan Hatice Sultan in 1663. It sits atop the remains of a Byzantine wall and is attached to the mosque via a long corridor.
The sultan and his family would spend time in the pavilion before or after prayer and during important holidays. It’s known that Turhan Hatice Sultan would often spend Ramadan there. The pavilion also provided access to the sultan’s loge, where members of the imperial court attended services behind a gilded screen.
The Sultan’s Pavilion was allocated to the Istanbul Chamber of Commerce (İstanbul Ticaret Odası) who restored it starting in 2004. They later opened it as a museum in 2010.
Visiting the Sultan’s Pavilion
The Sultan’s Pavilion is open during temporary exhibitions held in the long corridor leading up to the pavilion. At least 47 exhibitions take place annually and admission is free (as of January 2024). Once up at the pavilion entrance, visitors are asked to wear plastic galoshes over their shoes.
Features of the Sultan’s Pavilion
The Sultan’s Pavilion consists of three rooms and an L-shaped sofa leading to the mosque. The sofa is lit by 2 rows of windows and has sitting areas on each end.
The pavilion is decorated with over 10,000 Iznik tiles. Just inside the entrance, turn around and look above the door to see the original layers of unrestored tiles.
A corridor links three rooms attached to the L-shaped sofa. A stunning Iznik tile panel sits above the entrance to the corridor.
The most beautiful and luxurious room is the Main Room (Baş Oda), which features carved wooden ceilings and a row of Iznik tiles decorated with verses from the Quran.
The other two rooms along the corridor are a bathroom and a chamber with a fireplace.
Another striking element of the Sultan’s Pavilion are the beautifully painted door and window frames. They contain floral patterns and make good use of red and gold. Some doors and shutters have inlaid mother-of-pearl.
New Mosque Complex
The New Mosque was designed as part of a large complex. It once contained a hospital, primary school, fountain, timing room, and the tomb of Turhan Hatice Sultan. The Spice Bazaar, which is covered in a separate post, was also built to provide revenue for the complex. The hospital and primary school no longer exist. The timing room (muvakkithâne) is just south of the mosque.
New Mosque Square
The south side of the mosque opens onto New Mosque Square (Yeni Cami Meydanı). It’s bordered on the other three sides by the Spice Bazaar and the Tomb of Turhan Hatice Sultan.
The square is a pleasant area to sit and relax. There’s a fountain in the center, plenty of benches, and a city-run café. A Janissary statue greets visitors at the steps leading up to the Spice Bazaar on the south side.
Valide Sultan Fountain
About a block east of New Mosque Square, just past the İşbank Museum, is the Valide Sultan Fountain (Valide Sultan Sebili). This public fountain was built in 1663 by Turhan Hatice Sultan and was restored in 2002.
The fountain part consists of three windows separated by four columns. There are pointed arches made of colored stone above the windows. The interior tiles, a tile inscription, and other elements were lost in a fire that broke out in 1902 at the adjacent Mehpâre Store (Mehpâre Mağazası).
Tomb of Turhan Hatice Sultan
The Tomb of Turhan Hatice Sultan (Turhan Hatice Sultan Türbesi) was originally built in 1663 for Turhan Hatice Sultan. The architect was Mustafa Ağa. Two more tombs, the Havâtîn and Cedîd Havâtîn, were added to the back of the tomb in the 19th century.
The tomb contains a square porch measuring 15 x 15 meters at the entrance. The porch and interior are both decorated with Iznik tiles. Sultan Ahmed III added a library to the right side of the porch in 1724.
The tomb is built with limestone. It’s on a square plan and topped by a dome. Windows around the entire building, except the porch, allow natural light to enter.
A total of 82 members of the Ottoman dynasty are buried in the three tombs. 44 people, including five Ottoman sultans are buried in the main tomb. The Havâtîn tomb contains 17 burials, while the Cedîd Havâtîn tomb contains 21 burials including a sixth Ottoman sultan.
Biography of Turhan Hatice Sultan
Turhan Hatice Sultan (1627-1683) was the only woman in the history of the Ottoman Empire to legally share power with the sultan. She was originally named Nadia and was of either Russian, Ukranian, or Belorussian origin. She was captured as a child and sold into slavery. At the age of 12, she was sent as a gift from the Khan of Crimea to the Imperial Harem at Topkapi Palace. It’s believed that Turhan was responsible for the assassination of her mother-in-law and rival, Kösem Sultan.
Biography of Mehmed IV
Among the sultans buried in the tomb are Mehmed IV (b. 1642, Constantinople – d. 1693, Edirne). He was the 19th Sultan of the Ottoman Empire (r. 1648-1687) and was nicknamed Mehmed the Hunter (Avcı Mehmed). He took the throne at the age of 6 and was the second longest reigning sultan in Ottoman history after Süleyman the Magnificent. He signed over executive power to the Grand Vizier and oversaw a return of stability to the empire.
Near the end of his reign, Mehmed IV lost large amounts of territory to the Holy League in the Great Turkish War. After defeat at the Battle of Mohács, there was a mutiny among the Ottoman army. He was then deposed on November 8, 1687, in favor of his half-brother, Süleyman II, and imprisoned in Topkapi Palace. He died 6 years later in Edirne at the age of 51.
Biography of Mustafa II
Next is Mustafa II (b. 1664, Edirne – d. 1703, Constantinople), the 22nd Sultan of the Ottoman Empire (r. 1695-1703). He was interested in hunting, archery, and literature, and wrote several poems under a pseudonym.
Mustafa II was determined to win back the territory lost to the Holy League under Mehmed IV and personally commanded the army but failed. The loss of Hungary in the Treaty of Karlowitz on January 26, 1699, triggered the decline of the Ottoman Empire. Mustafa II was deposed on August 22, 1703, in favor of his brother, Ahmed III, and died the same year.
Biography of Ahmed III
Also buried in the tomb is Ahmed III (b. 1673, Dobrich, Bulgaria – 1736, Constantinople), the 23rd Sultan of the Ottoman Empire (r. 1703-1730). He introduced the printing press to the empire and left its finances in great condition. Ahmed III cultivated a strong relationship with France but was pressed into a long war with Russia. He would have easily defeated Russia had he not been forced to turn his attention to the Safavids, who invaded the Ottoman Empire from the east. Thanks to his lavish lifestyle, Ahmed III became unpopular and was deposed by a group of Janissaries led by Patrona Halil in favor of his nephew, Mahmud I, on October 1, 1730. He was imprisoned and died six years later at Topkapi Palace.
Biography of Mahmud I
The fourth sultan buried in the tomb is Mahmud I (b. 1696, Edirne – 1754, Constantinople), the 24th Sultan of the Ottoman Empire (r. 1730 – 1754). He spent 27 of the first 34 years of his life locked up at Topkapi Palace. After his enthronement, Mahmud I spent most of his time writing poetry while his Grand Viziers took care of the government and wars.
Biography of Osman III
Next is Osman III (b. 1699, Edirne – d. 1757, Constantinople), the 25th Sultan of the Ottoman Empire (r. 1754-1757). He lived most of his life like a prisoner in Topkapi Palace. He hated music and had all musicians banished from the palace. Osman III was intolerant of non-Muslims, forcing ethnic minorities to wear certain clothes or badges. However, he signed a firman in 1757 preserving the Status Quo of Holy Land sites for Christians, Muslims, and Jews.
Biography of Murad V
Buried in the Cedîd Havâtîn tomb is Murad V (b. 1840, Constantinople – d. 1904, Constantinople), the 33rd Sultan of the Ottoman Empire (r. 1876). He replaced his deposed uncle, Abdülaziz, on May 30, 1876, and only reigned for 93 days. Murad V was deposed in favor of his brother, Abdülhamid II, on August 31, 1876, because he was supposedly mentally ill. However, it’s believed he was actually deposed because he was in favor of implementing democratic reforms. Murad V was imprisoned for the rest of his life at Çırağan Palace.
