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The Spice Bazaar, also known as the Egyptian Bazaar (Mısır Çarşısı) is one of the biggest bazaars in Istanbul. It’s located in the Eminönü area.
History
The Spice Bazaar was built as part of the New Mosque complex between 1660 and 1664. It’s an L-shaped structure designed by Koca Kasım Ağa (1579-1659), the Ottoman imperial architect. Construction was carried out under architect Mustafa Ağa and it was built with revenues from Egypt, which was an Ottoman province at the time. The building was severely damaged by fires in 1691 and 1940. It takes its current shape from a renovation project from 1940 to 1943.
Ever since it opened, the Spice Bazaar has been the center of the spice trade in the city, although several souvenir and jewelry shops have replaced traditional spice shops in recent years.
Visiting
The Spice Bazaar has four entrances and there are a total of about 85 shops. They’re open until about 7pm daily. It can get extremely crowded. It’s best to go earlier in the day and avoid weekends, but there’s no guarantee it’ll be less crowded. The easiest way to get there is to take the T1 tram line to the Eminönü stop.
Inside
The interior of the building is of most interest to tourists. This is where you’ll find more souvenir and jewelry shops, but there are still plenty of shops displaying spices in perfectly formed pyramids.
Historically, locals came to the Spice Bazaar not only to spruce up their cooking but also to purchase medicinal remedies. Many of the tea shops will suggest or mix together different types of teas for this purpose.
At the Spice Bazaar, you can also find sweets, teas, Turkish delight (lokum), and more. If purchasing spices, teas, or Turkish delight, thanks to the touristy nature of the place, be aware that prices may be higher than other spice shops in the city. Haggling is expected. Also, the fresh Turkish delight is much better than what you’ll find in the pre-packaged boxes. The best part – shopkeepers are always giving out free samples!
Ezan Kiosk
At the intersection of the two wings of the Spice Bazaar is a wooden balcony accessed by a spiral staircase. This is the Ezan Kiosk (Ezan Köşkü). When the bazaar opened every morning, the officer in charge would call a prayer for the shopkeepers wishing them a profitable day.
Outside
While inside is a great place to shop as a tourist, the real action is on the outside of the building. This is where the locals come to shop, and the stores are much different than what you find inside. The sights, sounds, and smells are enough to satisfy the senses.
On the side nearest the New Mosque, there are stores selling mostly plants, tools, and gardening supplies. On the side facing Eminönü Square, the stores sell nuts, cheese, meats, olives, fish, and more. Behind the building are shops selling household goods and supplies.
I really enjoy the side facing Eminönü Square. As chaotic as it is, it’s one of my favorite scenes in Istanbul. Walking through the market, shopkeepers try to get your attention with samples and the deals of the day, while locals shout over each other to purchase goods from workers who never lose their cool. I imagine this scene hasn’t changed much since the Spice Bazaar opened in the 17th century. Maybe that’s why the “organized chaos” works well.
My Picks
My favorite store is Şükrü Efendi, which is on the side facing Eminönü Square. Besides the excellent service I always receive, I feel like the quality of their Turkish delight is much better than other stores. They also have a wide variety of nuts and dried fruits. I always buy pistachios, hazelnuts, and almonds. The dried figs and apricots are delicious as well. If you plan to take these goods home with you, you can ask to have your packages vacuum-packed for freshness.
Another great store is Kurukahveci Mehmet Efendi, which sells some of the best Turkish coffee in Istanbul. It’s not technically part of the Spice Bazaar but it sits opposite the Hasırcılar Gate (Hasırcılar Kapısı). Although they can buy packaged coffee from Mehmet Efendi in just about any supermarket in Istanbul, locals head there to purchase freshly ground coffee. The amount of coffee with the corresponding price is listed clearly on the window. Just tell the attendant how much coffee you want and have your money ready. If there’s a long queue, don’t worry, it moves quickly.
Nearby…
If you keep walking past Kurukahveci Mehmet Efendi, you’ll head into Tahtakale. This is another authentic local market area and where you can find the Rüstem Pasha Mosque.
