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Mustafapaşa is located in the Cappadocia region of Turkey. This town with Greek origins has transformed itself into a touristic destination.
History of Mustafapaşa
Mustafapaşa was originally known by its Greek name, Sinasos (Σινασός). Its residents were predominantly Greeks and Karamanlides (Turkish-speaking Greek Orthodox Christians). The earliest reference to the town can be traced back to Ottoman records in 1476.
Sinasos thrived and became prosperous during the 19th century. Many residents were merchants who became rich shipping goods between Constantinople (now Istanbul), Russia, and Europe. Most schoolteachers were from Athens. Patriarch Gregory V (1746-1821) founded a seminary there a few weeks before his hanging in 1821. By the early 20th century, the population was roughly 3,000 Greeks and 500 Turks.
In 1924, the population exchange between Greece and Turkey was enforced on Sinasos. The original Greek inhabitants moved to Nea Sinasos on the island of Evia (Euboia). They were replaced by Turks from Kastoria and Macedonian Muslims. Although the Turkish government officially changed the name of the town to Mustafapaşa, many modern residents still refer to it as Sinasos.
Saints Constantine and Helen Church
The Saints Constantine and Helen Church once served the Greek Orthodox community of Sinasos. It’s located in the center of Mustafapaşa.
The church was built in 1729 replacing an older smaller church that needed to be renovated. At that time, the Ottomans only allowed Christians 80 days to build their churches, and the entrances needed to be below street level. The community mobilized, demolished the old church, and built the new one in less than 80 days.
The church was repaired in 1850 by the local community. It was used not only for religious services, but also for school events, welcome ceremonies, and prayers for the health of the Sultan and success of the Ottoman military.
Visiting the Church
The Saints Constantine and Helen Church functions today as a historical museum. It’s also used at least once annually for church services led by the Ecumenical Patriarch of Constantinople. Admission is 25₺ (as of June 2023).
Façade
The upper part of the façade above the entrance has three windows. The middle window is decorated with reliefs of two dragons facing each other. Their heads are pointed towards the sky. To the left is a six-winged Seraph and to the right is the Byzantine eagle. Other bricks contain inscriptions in Greek.
Under the façade is a space with a low ceiling. It functions as a narthex and contains the door to the church. The narthex is supported by four columns and three arches.
The columns and arches are decorated with paint that has faded over the years. To the left of the main door is another smaller door. Reliefs of two angels and a cross sit above. They’re all painted blue.
Door
The door of the church is one of the most stunning doors in Mustafapaşa. It features yellow and dark blue plant and fruit motifs around it.
An inscription in Greek above the door translates to:
I am a church of the most august royal couple Constantine and Helen. In the times of Sultan Ahmed I was entirely built. In the times of Abdülmecid I was adorned as befits me. And in the era when the renowned Paisios was bishop through efforts and expenses by the public of Sinasos. Erected from its foundations in 1829. Repaired in 1850.
Nave
Saints Constantine and Helen Church consists of a central nave with two aisles. Sadly, it’s not in the best condition, but it’s easy to see it was once brilliantly decorated.
Some of the columns contain remnants of blue and red paint. One of them has a sketch of an angel, but I’m not sure if it was traced over an original drawing.
In the apse where the altar once stood is an icon of the Holy Trinity. It hangs from a nail attached to the rear wall.
Near the entrance to the church is an icon of Saints Constantine and Helen as well as a small area displaying artifacts and a few tombstones. There’s also a space for visitors to light candles and a bit of information about the history of the church.
Caves
Outside to the left of the church is what looks to be cave dwellings. There’s faded paint on part of it. The cave may have been used by the church somehow.
Houses in Mustafapaşa
One of the best things about walking around Mustafapaşa are all the historic 19th century mansions built by the former Greek inhabitants. There are about 30 prominent mansions still standing in town. Some have been converted into public buildings, museums, or hotels. Others are privately owned.
Old Greek House
The Old Greek House is a mansion in Mustafapaşa that doubles as one of the most well-known restaurants in Cappadocia.
The Old Greek House is a two-story mansion made of stone, with wood and iron materials used in some parts. It has an arched entrance door made of double-winged wood.
History of the Old Greek House
The Old Greek House was built in 1879 by a Greek artist, Yorha Vasil. In 1924, during the population exchange between Turkey and Greece, it was given to a Turkish family from Thessaloniki.
The Öztürk family, who came to Mustafapaşa as teachers, purchased it in 1938. They named it the Temel Öztürk Mansion and lived there until 1992. Since then, the descendants of the Öztürks have operated a restaurant and hotel out of the mansion. It has 15 rooms and 32 beds along with 2 terraces.
The Old Greek House also featured on the Turkish series Asmalı Konak from March 2002 to June 2003. This boosted its fame and attracted more visitors.
Balcony
The balcony above the entrance is supported by eight columns. Rosette, star, and clover motifs decorate the space between the columns. The ceiling of the balcony is colorfully painted. On my first visit in October 2010, the gutter heads were in the shape of a dragon.
Ground Floor
The ground floor of the mansion functions as the restaurant. It features arches painted with different bands of colors, a fireplace, and a wooden ceiling.
Upper Floor
The rooms on the upper floor of the mansion are decorated in a late 19th to early 20th century style. The central hall is the most brilliant, containing a wall painting and a brightly colored ceiling.
The wall painting, by Georgios Iordanidis, is dated 1887. It features a male and female figure sitting on a swing hanging from a tree.
In the room to the left of the hall is another wall painting above the window dated 1879. It depicts two human figures with a medallion between them. Inside the medallion is the phrase “Everything is empty, it’s possible to be happy, fate offers people things in common.” On the opposite wall is a niche with a painting of two soldiers riding horses and carrying a flag.
The room to the right of the hall has bare walls with seating around the perimeter of the room. There’s a central niche flanked by two niches covered with wooden doors.
Restaurant
As far as the restaurant, they serve excellent Turkish cuisine at reasonable prices. I’ve visited three times. On my second visit in June 2022, I had the mantı and shared several meze dishes with a group I was leading through Turkey. All the food is prepared by the owner’s wife.
Seraphim Mansion
Next to the Old Greek House is the gate to the Seraphim Mansion. It was built in 1853 by Nikolaki Rizos. He was the grandfather of Seraphim Rizos (1882-1969), who photographed the town after the population exchange decision and published the photos in a book.
The gate contains yellow lion and star reliefs on either side of the door. An inscription in Greek sits above the arch on a marble slab. It roughly translates to:
Man! If you are a friend, leave in happiness. If you are an enemy who threatens, keep away from this gate. 1853.
Cave House
My guide on my first trip, Fatih, pointed out a cave dwelling with black soot stains above a chimney carved between two windows. He told me the story of an old Greek lady who used to live there. A teenager at the time of the population exchange, she was able to hide her true identity and avoid being transferred to Greece. She died around 2007 at almost 100 years old.
Hill above Mustafapaşa
After lunch at the Old Greek House, I walked up a hill overlooking Mustafapaşa. There are wonderful views of the town and countryside from the top. The path is just across the street from the restaurant. There are also a few cave dwellings at the bottom of the hill.
Where to Stay in Mustafapaşa
I’ve only stayed at one hotel within the town, in October 2023. I’ll write about that as soon as I have a chance. Other than that, I’ve stayed about 10 minutes away in a small village.
Gamirasu Cave Hotel
On my first visit to Cappacodia in October 2010, I spent the night at Gamirasu Cave Hotel. It’s about 10 minutes south of Mustafapaşa in the village of Ayvalı. It’s not far out of the way at all and is actually centrally located in relation to other lesser-known attractions worth visiting. It was a great experience overall.
Rooms
Gamirasu Cave Hotel has several rooms situated inside a rock-cut Byzantine period monastery. My room was a standard room. It was very comfortable and had all the modern amenities. The bathroom was a little outdated at the time of my stay but that wasn’t a problem at all.
Services
The hotel has a wonderful staff that go out of their way to make you feel at home. There’s a restaurant with a great buffet breakfast included in the morning. Lunch and dinner service is a la carte.
The property has a small garden and it’s possible to see cave houses across the street. There’s a decent WiFi connection throughout the hotel, bike rental, and 24-hour reception and room service. If you need to get to Ürgüp, there’s a shuttle running from 9am to 10pm.
