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Patara (Πάταρα) was an important Lycian city on the Mediterranean coast of modern-day Turkey. It’s also home to one of the best beaches in the world.
History of Patara
Patara has been around since at least the 13th century BC, and was likely settled by Dorians from Crete. Its Lycian name was Pttara, and it contained a temple and oracle of Apollo second in importance to that of Delphi. The ancients believed the city was founded by Patarus, a son of Apollo.
Around 540 BC, Patara was conquered by Median general Harpagus on behalf of the Persians and absorbed into the Persian Empire. It joined the Delian League in 468 BC and became Hellenized. The city later surrendered to Alexander the Great in 334 or 333 BC.
Patara was one of the largest cities of the six members of the Lycian League, which was granted autonomy as a protectorate of Rome in 168 BC. It was also the primary seaport of Lycia. The city was officially annexed into the Roman Empire in 43 AD under Emperor Claudius and became the capital of the province of Lycia.
Patara grew prosperous as the provincial capital and became one of the wealthiest cities in the region. By the 4th century, it was an important link on the Aegean sea route to the new imperial capital, Constantinople. During this period, Patara made its mark on Christian history. Saints Leo and Paregorius were martyred there around 260, and St. Nicholas was born there on March 15, 270.
Decline of Patara
In 542, a plague swept through the city significantly affecting its population. Arab raids in the 7th and 8th century caused many of the inhabitants to resettle inland. By the 10th century, the city was an important Byzantine naval base but had been reduced to a small village.
Patara was taken by the Seljuks in 1211 and the locals were gradually Turkified and Islamized. The city was abandoned by 1340, and was last mentioned in official records in 1478.
Patara was first explored in 1836 by French archaeologist Charles Texier (1802-1871) and explored in 1838 by British archaeologist Charles Fellows (1799-1860). Modern excavations began in 1988 and are ongoing.
Visiting Patara
Patara is open daily and admission for foreigners is €15 (as of May 2024). Audio guides are available. Admission includes access to Patara Beach, which is the main attraction. At the visitor center you’ll find a gift shop, café, and scale model of the site.
Patara is an expansive site but it doesn’t take long to see the main sites. If you visit the developed section only, you can see it in about 30 or 45 minutes. I tried to explore as much as possible and spent about 90 minutes there.
That being said, most of the city has not been excavated, is overgrown with weeds, inaccessible, or a combination of the three. If you’re the more adventurous type, wear good shoes, long pants, and old clothes. The brush will tear up your legs and clothing. Also, take plenty of water if it’s a hot day. Finally, don’t expect all the interpretive panels to be in good condition. A few of them were faded from the sun or rain and impossible to read.
Structures Along the Main Road
On the way to the visitor center, you’ll notice a few structures along the main road through the site. Most of them were inaccessible during my visit and only viewable from outside a fence.
City Gate
The first structure you’ll notice is the City Gate. It was built around in the middle of the 1st century under Roman Emperor Claudius and completed during the reign of Nero or Vespasian. Around the turn of the 2nd century, the citizens of Patara rededicated the gate to honor Mettius Modestus, the Governor of Lycia. Statues of Emperor Trajan and his wife Plotina stood in niches on the façade.
The City Gate is 19 meters wide by 10 meters high with 4 piers and 3 arches. The top of the arch also functioned as an aqueduct, and there was an octagonal fountain in front. Nearby is a collection of sarcophagi as well as the foundations of a watchtower.
Harbor Bath
Nearby further west of the road is the Harbor Bath. It was built in the 2nd century and functioned until the 5th century. It was then converted to a workshop and used until the 7th century. The bath was closed to the public during my visit so I had to view it from the road.
The Harbor Bath measures 34 x 29 meters and featured a caldarium (hot room), tepidarium (warm room) and frigidarium (cold room) lined up side-by-side from west to east. A palaestra measuring 31 x 31 meters sat to the east of the building. A cold water pool was on the south side of the bath, which used a hypocaust (underground heating system).
Basilica
The Basilica, which was the only one in Patara, sits further south. It was built in the 6th century and is one of the earliest and largest examples of its kind in Lycia. The structure was closed to the public during my visit and only visible from outside the fence.
The Basilica is 61 meters long by 32 meters wide. It featured a three-aisled nave entered from the west through three gates in the narthex. The apse has a diameter of 8.75 meters and featured 3 windows. The bishop’s palace stood to the southwest and had a mosaic floor.
After the Basilica collapsed, a small chapel was built into the northwest corner of the ruins. It measures 5.8 x 4.5 meters with an apse 1.5 meters deep. The chapel opens onto the atrium of the Basilica.
Castellum
Finally, a short walk east of the road is the Castellum. It’s a water basin built in the 2nd century. It’s also the largest of 3 castella found at Patara, measuring 8.6 x 7.5 meters.
The water traveled 22.5 kilometers via an aqueduct to reach the Castellum, which in turn distributed water to the urban areas of the city. The Castellum consisted of a water reservoir with inlet, outlet, and discharge pipes. It was also used for pressure reduction.
The Castellum was topped with a brick vault five meters high. It was built directly on top of the bedrock and the interior walls and floor were plastered. Water entered the basin through terracotta pipes on the northeast side. It was discharged through two outlet channels on the west side.
Main Archaeological Site
A path from the parking lot at the visitor center leads to the main archaeological site at Patara. At the beginning of the path is information about the history of the city as well as a map.
Theatre of Patara
The first structure you’ll come to is the Theatre of Patara. It was built into the northern slope of what today is called Kurşunlutepe on the southern edge of the city.
The Theatre was first constructed in the 2nd century BC or the 1st century BC at the latest. An inscription by Polyperchon states that it was restored during the reign of Tiberius.
Seating Area
The seating area has a diameter of 80 meters and a capacity of 6,000 spectators. There are 38 rows or seats divided horizontally by a walkway. The lower tier has of 23 rows of seats while the upper tier has 15. A removable awning protected spectators from the sun and rain.
The lower tier is divided into eight wedges by nine narrow stairways, and the upper tier is similarly divided. Vaulted corridors provided access to the upper tier on the east and west sides.
There’s a temple at the top center of the upper tier. It was dedicated to a god or the imperial cult and built in the 2nd century by Tib. Claudius Flavianus Eudemus, a local benefactor. He also added an upper section to the seating area and built supporting towers.
Stage Building
The stage building measures 41.5 meters in length and 6.5 meters in width. It was two stories high and built independently of the rest of the Theatre. The façade was elaborately decorated and had a raised stage for theatrical performances.
A Greek inscription on the east wall of the stage building states that the construction of the stage building started under Q. Vilius Titianus in 126 and was finished by his daughter Vilia Procula in 147.
Orchestra
The entrance to the orchestra is via paradoi on both sides of the stage. There’s also a gate on the exterior façade of the stage building. During the Roman period, a wall was built between the seating area and the orchestra to stage gladiator and wild animal fights.
Kurşunlutepe
A path west of the Theatre leads up Kurşunlutepe. There are a couple structures at the top as well as a scenic overlook. The views from Kurşunlutepe are excellent. You get the best views of the Harbor and a good look at the lighthouse.
At the top of the hill is a monumental tomb and a cistern. I tried getting up the path but the vegetation was too thick. I was able to get close enough to the tomb to get a decent photo.
Bouleuterion
A few steps from the Theatre is the Bouleuterion, or Lycian League Assembly Hall. It was originally built in the 2nd or 1st century BC and acted as the seat of government for the Lycian League. A series of honorary inscriptions have been placed in front of the building.
The Bouleuterion was reconstructed by the Turkish Grand National Assembly between 2008 and 2012. This may not be considered best practices in archaeology, so I’ll let you form your own opinions.
The Bouleuterion is important in the history of government. The Lycian League’s system was regarded the perfect model of a republic and even influenced the Constitution of the United States. Each Lycian city had one vote, with the largest six cities receiving three votes each.
The Bouleuterion has a capacity of 1,400 and was also used as an odeon for small concerts. It measures 42.8 x 30.6 meters, covering an area of approximately 1,309 square meters. The height of the building is 17 meters. The seating area has 21 rows with a VIP section in the center.
Central Agora
The Central Agora was a large open space east of the Bouleuterion. It measured roughly 120 x 77 meters. Most of the blocks were plundered for building material. Only part of the western stoa, north gate, and a very short part of the eastern stoa have survived. A monumental base measuring 4.5 x 4.5 meters sits in the center.
The western stoa, which is 13.56 meters wide, has two rows of columns with main entrances to the north and south. The columns on the façade are granite and of the Ionic order while the interior columns are marble and of the Corinthian order.
The eastern stoa was seven meters wide and is believed to have been closed by a sloping roof. It opened directly to the Baths of Nero on the north side but was blocked by a wall built during the Byzantine period. The entrance to the latrine is nearby.
Abora IV
The Abora IV is a replica ancient ship built by German archaeologist Dominique Görlitz. It’s permanently exhibited along the western stoa of the Central Agora in Patara. The 14-meter ship was built in Varna, Bulgaria, in 2019, using reed from Bolivia. It successfully sailed to Kaş over a period of 34 days, arriving on September 19 of that year. The ship was then transported to Patara by road. Görlitz’s aim was to prove that ancient sailors could travel from the Black Sea to the Mediterranean using ships made of reed.
Baths of Nero
Just north of the Central Agora are the Baths of Nero. It’s the largest of the 4 baths in Patara, measuring 38 x 27 meters. It consists of a frigidarium (cold room), tepidarium (warm room), and caldarium (hot room) lined up from east to west.
The Baths of Nero were built during the reign of Nero around 60 AD. They were originally identified as the Vespasian Baths according to an inscription found there, but this has since been corrected. Nero’s name had been erased and replaced with Vespasian. The baths were closed to the public during my visit.
Harbor Street
Harbor Street was one of the main roads through Patara. It was originally built in the 2nd or 1st century BC during the Hellenistic period. The road was rebuilt as a Cardo during the Roman period, intersecting with the Decumanus north of the Prostyle Temple.
Harbor Street, which was likely used by pedestrians only, runs south to north connecting the Central Agora to the Inner Harbor. The south end featured a propylon functioning as the north gate of the Central Agora. A defensive wall constructed during the Byzantine period incorporated the gate. A sewer ran underneath the length of the street.
Harbor street was used until the 7th century and was eventually completely flooded due to earthquakes over several centuries. Only about 100 meters have been excavated so far.
Harbor Street is 12.6 meters wide and both sides of the street are colonnaded. The colonnades are up to 6 meters wide. Granite columns were used on the east colonnade while marble columns were used on the west. The west colonnade, which contained several different types of shops, was decorated with a mosaic floor that has not survived.
Central Bath
The Central Bath lies just east of Harbor Street. It measures 12.5 × 25 meters and is named for its central position. The construction date is unknown because it has not yet been excavated, but it dates to the Roman period.
The Central Bath consists of three side-by-side sections in an east-west direction. The eastern room is the frigidarium, the middle room is the tepidarium, and the western room is the caldarium. A long narrow room added later had an unknown function. The entrance is on the southern wall of the frigidarium.
Prostyle Temple
If you’re feeling adventurous, you should definitely seek out the Prostyle Temple. It’s along the unexcavated part of Harbor Street and there’s no real path to get there. I had to walk along a muddy stream and find a place to cross once I came to the temple.
Eventually, I was able to hop across and stay dry, but then came the tricky part. The vegetation was so thick, I had to push through some sharp weeds and crawl under a few branches. I tore up my legs and my camera got banged up a bit but it was worth the effort. Once I made it through, to my surprise I found an interpretive panel about the temple.
The Prostyle Temple is one of the best preserved of its kind in Lycia. It’s dated to the 3rd quarter of the 2nd century but the dedication is unknown. The temple was later incorporated into a 12th century Byzantine wall as a bastion.
The Prostyle Temple measures 12.8 x 9.7 meters. It sits on a podium 1.5 meters high overlooking the Inner Harbor to the north. The pronaos is 2.25 meters deep and opens to a cella measuring 8.9 x 7.8 meters. The columns are topped by Corinthian capitals and flank a gate 6.6 meters high and 2.9 meters wide. The interior has not been excavated and is full of broken blocks. There’s even a tree growing inside.
Seljuk Bath
Adjacent to the Prostyle Temple are the remains of a bath dated to the Seljuk period, based on ceramic fragments and coins found there. The rear wall leans against a 12th century Byzantine wall and the west side opens to a medieval settlement.
The bath contains 3 main chambers composed of a frigidarium/apodyterium (cold room/dressing room) measuring 3 x 2.75 meters, a tepidarium (warm room) measuring 3 x 4 meters, and a caldarium (hot room) measuring 4.25 x 4.25 meters. Holes on the western and eastern walls of the frigidarium may have been designed for a girder used for hanging clothes. There’s also a hot water pool in the south and a water tank measuring 2 x 2 meters.
Small Bath
Back to Harbor Street, a path leading west passes the aptly named Small Bath, which is the smallest bath in Patara. It was built in the Early Roman Imperial period and sits on a small hill south of the path. The structure has not yet been excavated.
The entrance to the Small Bath was on the eastern wall of the frigidarium (cold room), which is 1.7 meters wide. It opens to the tepidarium (warm room) via a one meter wide gate on the northern wall.
The caldarium (hot room) is on the northwest corner. It’s accessed through a 1.05 meter wide gate on the western wall of the tepidarium. The caldarium, which is the largest room, features an apse 2.75 meters deep on the north end.
Medieval Town Church
Continuing west along the path, you’ll notice the 12th century Byzantine walls that once surrounded a medieval settlement. These are from the same system of walls that passed by the Prostyle Temple and Seljuk bath, and formed the boundaries of Patara during the Late Byzantine period.
A break on the west side of the walls opens to the Medieval Town Church. It was built in the 12th century where an older late 10th century church once stood. A small walled cemetery sits to the south.
The church measures 16.2 x 10.5 meters. It has three aisles each ending with an apse on the east side. The entrance is via an atrium on the west side, and there are also gates on both sides. Four columns taken from older buildings once supported a dome and divided the nave. The floor was paved with limestone and marble slabs.
The apse has a diameter of 3.5 meters and features a synthronon. Frescoes once decorated the walls, with one partially surviving on the western side of the north wall. The church was in ruins by the early 13th century and a small chapel was built in the southwest corner.
Harbor of Patara
West of the Byzantine walls is the Harbor of Patara. It was once one of the largest in the Mediterranean, but had started to silt up by the 4th century. Today, it’s a giant marsh attracting migrating birds. There are a few structures on the other side of the Harbor, but unfortunately the path was closed. I could only view them from afar.
Lighthouse
The lighthouse, on the southwest corner of what was the Harbor, is understood to be the oldest surviving lighthouse of the ancient world. It was constructed under Nero in 64/65 AD and was destroyed in the 15th century. Excavations took place between August 2004 and December 31, 2005, clearing away the sand dune that once covered it.
The lighthouse, which was being reconstructed at the time of my visit, consists of a cylindrical tower resting on a base with two steps. The bottom of the base measures 18.8 x 19.6 meters and the top is 16.4 x 15.6 meters. The lighthouse was 6 meters in diameter and the walls were 1.2 meters thick. A staircase led to the top, where there was a dome with arched windows. It once sat right on the shoreline but is now 500 meters from the sea due to the silting of the Harbor. If the path is closed, the best views of the lighthouse are from Kurşunlutepe.
Granary
Across the Harbor are the remains of a granary built to commemorate the visit of Emperor Hadrian in 131. It was a huge building measuring 75 x 25 meters and was divided into eight different chambers. In addition to storing grain, it held goods such as wine and olive oil waiting to be shipped to Rome.
Pseudoperipteral Temple Tomb
Just north of the granary is the Pseudoperipteral Temple Tomb. It was a cult temple and tomb but its occupant is unknown. The tomb remains unexcavated. Nearby is the stadium, which is also unexcavated.
Inner Harbor
Following the 12th century Byzantine walls around to the north side, there’s a marshy, muddy area with lots of reeds and vegetation growing. If you can get close to the Prostyle Temple, it’s possible to peek through the reeds to see the remains of the Inner Harbor. It has been reduced to a small pond, but it’s one of the only sections of the Harbor to still have standing water. I tried to make my way back to Harbor Street from there but the vegetation was so thick it was impossible.
Patara Beach
Now that you’ve worked up a sweat exploring the ruins of Patara, it’s time to cool off at spectacular Patara Beach (Patara Plajı). This 18 kilometer long beach is one of the finest in the world and reaches 200-300 meters wide in some parts. The beach has fine powdery sand and there’s a constant breeze, making it a popular place for windsurfing.
Patara Beach is also a protected area due to the nesting of loggerhead turtles. Small cages on the beach mark the nests, warning visitors not to dig or place umbrellas nearby.
As you can imagine, Patara Beach is quite popular. Most visitors skip the archaeological site altogether and head straight for the sand. I visited on a major holiday and it was quite crowded. In fact, the entire parking lot was completely full. I had to park at the visitor center because there was literally no space. The good thing is, most people congregate near the entrance. If you walk further north, you should be able to find some peace and quiet.
The beach has plenty of facilities. There are restaurants, toilets, and changing rooms on the beach itself as well as a café selling drinks and fast food. You’ll find food carts and souvenir sellers lining the path from the entrance to the beach.
