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Halki (Χαλκείο) is a charming village in central Naxos, Greece. It’s a popular tourist destination and should be on your list when visiting the island.
Intro to Halki
Halki, also transliterated as Chalki or Chalkio, was once the capital of Naxos and an important commercial center. It’s named for the bronze smiths who were settled there by the Venetians.
The village is small and picturesque, with colorful alleys and some beautiful Neoclassical architecture, making it a great place to wander and take photos. You’ll also find plenty of good restaurants and lots of shops selling locally made handicrafts. There are a handful of Byzantine churches in the area as well.
We stopped by the village to visit the citron distillery (see below), have a snack, and take a quick walk around. All in all, it only takes about a half hour to explore the village, without adding time for visiting its attractions. I definitely want to spend more time there on a future visit, at least a half day. I would like to try some of the restaurants and see more of the Byzantine churches.
Getting to Halki
Getting to Halki is fairly easy. Obviously, the best way to get there is with a rental car. There’s a free parking lot on the north side of the village along the main road. It’s also frequently served by bus from Naxos Town.
Vallindras Distillery
A very popular stop in the village is the Vallindras Distillery. This family-owned distillery produces Naxos Kitron, which is the official liqueur of Naxos. It’s worth visiting to see the small museum about the history of the family’s kitron business and their original copper still. You can also get free samples of their products.
Kitron is made from the leaves of the citron tree, which has been cultivated in Naxos since the 17th century. In the 1870s, Gregorios VaIlindras opened a small distillery in Chalki to produce kitrorako, which is a traditional citron-flavored spirit that was already common in Naxos. His son Markos created a new liqueur, the kitron known today, and had the business officially licensed in 1896.
Naxos Kitron quickly became famous and was eventually exported to Greek communities all over the world, including the United States, the Ottoman Empire, Russia, and Egypt. It won international competitions in Bordeaux (1904, 1907), Marseille (1904), Liege (1905), Athens (1903, 1914), Syros (1936, 1997), Thessaloniki (1936), and others.
The Vallindras family still produces Naxos Kitron and the recipe has remained unchanged to this day. It’s one of three Greek aperitifs marked with a protected designation of origin (PDO).
Panagia Protothronos
Along the main road through the village is the Church of Panagia Protothronos. It’s one of the oldest churches on the entire island, dating back to the early Christian period. According to tradition, it was the first church ever built on Naxos.
The church was originally a three-aisled basilica. It was converted to a domed cruciform church in the 9th century with two aisles added later. It has been in uninterrupted service since 1052.
There are five layers of frescoes. The fresco in the alcove of the altar depicts the Virgin Mary with a spindle and is unique in the Balkans. Don’t miss the small chapel to the left of the entrance, which features even more frescoes.
When we visited, the friendly English-speaking priest greeted us and gave us a short detailed history of the church.
Barozzi-Gratsia Tower
Also along the main road it’s possible to spot the imposing Barozzi-Gratsia Tower. It was built at the beginning of the 17th century by the Venetian Barozzi family and is still inhabited. The three-story tower has thick walls, barred windows, heavy wooden doors, and the coats of arms of its respective owners. The current shape of the tower dates back to 1742.
Café Galani
Finally, no visit to Halki is complete without sampling the galaktoboureko at Café Galani, which sits along the main road. In August 1986, Antonis Galanis and his wife, Katerina Salteri, acquired the shop from Markos Lampadakis. Lampadakis’ galaktoboureko was the most popular item and it remains so today.
The galaktoboureko is hands down among the best I’ve ever had in Greece. We each ordered a portion and sat at a shaded table across the street. Service was friendly, and I know I’ll be back to try some of the other dishes they offer.
Panagia Drosiani
Although not part of the village, Panagia Drosiani isn’t too far away and well worth heading out to see. It’s the oldest church on the island, dating back to the end of the 6th century, and nearest to the village of Moni.
The church features stone walls topped by a dome. There are three domed chapels connected to the northern side. Some of the frescoes inside the church date back to that period, while others were painted between the 11th and 14th centuries.
The church is typically open from 11am to 5pm daily. Unfortunately, both times I passed by it was either too early or too late to visit.
