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The Church of Panagia Kapnikarea (Καπνικαρέα) is one of the oldest churches in Athens, Greece. It sits in the middle of Ermou Street a few blocks from Monastiraki Square.
History of Kapnikarea
Kapnikarea was constructed by the Byzantines, most likely in the 3rd quarter of the 11th century, and may have been part of a monastery. It was built on the site of an older church commissioned by Aelia Eudocia (c. 401 – 460), the Athenian wife of Roman Emperor Theodosius II. The first church was built atop the ruins of an ancient Greek temple dedicated to either Athena or Demeter. Columns and fragments from the temple were used in the construction of Kapnikarea.
Kapnikarea was badly damaged in 1826 and 1827 during the Greek Revolution and was restored shortly after by Ioannis Prentzas. The church was slated for demolition in 1834, after King Otto commissioned German architect Leo von Klenze (1784-1864) to draw a new city plan for Athens. It was saved when King Ludwig I of Bavaria, Otto’s father, objected to the decision and intervened.
Another plan to demolish Kapnikarea was approved by the government of Benizelos Roufos (1795-1868) in August 1863, but the opposition of Metropolitan Theophilos (1790-1873) saved it that time. Since 1931, the church has belonged to the National and Kapodistrian University of Athens. The university oversaw numerous restoration projects from the 1930s through 1986.
Alternative Names
The name of the church originates from its benefactor, who apparently was a collector of the chimney tax during the Byzantine period. Another name was Kamoucharea, which refers to the gold woven fabrics that were likely produced in the area. During the Ottoman occupation, it was called the Church of the Princess, and after the restoration by Ioannis Prentzas, locals called it the Church of Prentzas.
Exonarthex and Narthex
The original structure had a single narthex and an open portico was added in the early 12th century. The portico was later enclosed and turned into an exonarthex. It features brick arches and windows as well as steeply pitched gabled roofs.
The southwest corner of the church features a porch supported by two 6th century columns. It contains a mosaic of the Virgin and Child with an inscription “The Joy of the Sorrowful”. It was created in 1936 by Elli Voila (1908-1989).
Nave of Kapnikarea
The oldest and largest part of the structure is the main church dedicated to the Presentation of the Virgin Mary to the Temple. It was built on a cross-in-square plan using four ancient columns with Corinthian capitals. One column is Roman, the second is early Christian, the third is Middle Byzantine, and the date of the fourth is unknown.
Greek painter Fotis Kontoglou (1895-1965) and his students painted the frescoes in Kapnikarea starting in 1942. Kontoglou was responsible for the frescoes in the apse and dome while the students did most of the rest.
Chapel of Saint Barbara
The Chapel of Saint Barbara was constructed on the north side of the church sometime during the Frankish or Ottoman periods. It has a dome similar to the main church but at a lower height. The chapel was almost completely destroyed during the Greek Revolution.
