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Bethlehem is known as the birthplace of Jesus, attracting over a million Christian pilgrims annually from all around the world.
Introduction to Bethlehem
Bethlehem sits a short distance from Jerusalem in the West Bank. It’s a small city heavily dependent on tourism, especially during Christmas and from pilgrims visiting the Church of the Nativity. The city was historically populated by Arab Christians but now has a majority of Arab Muslims.
Both of my trips to Bethlehem have been short and incomplete, leaving me wanting to spend more time exploring the city and meeting the locals. Other than visiting the Church of the Nativity, most of what I saw was walking to and from the bus and wasting time in tourist shops.
On both trips, our bus parked in an underground tourist center a few blocks downhill from the Church of the Nativity. We walked to the church and had a good laugh at some of the creative businesses along the way. That’s pretty much the extent of my time in Bethlehem. I know there’s lots more to discover in this small city and hope to get the chance in the future.
Manger Square
Manger Square is a pedestrianized square in the heart of Bethlehem in front of the Church of the Nativity. It’s where all Christmas celebrations take place and where visitors get their first glance of the church.
Church of the Nativity
The Church of the Nativity is one of the most important Christian pilgrimage sites in the Holy Land. It’s the oldest place continuously used as a place of worship in Christianity, and was built atop the spot traditionally considered to be the birthplace of Jesus. The church was named a UNESCO World Heritage site in 2012.
The Church of the Nativity was originally commissioned by Constantine the Great and built between 330 and 333. It was destroyed around 529 and rebuilt by Justinian I. Over the years, it has been repaired and the complex has been expanded.
The complex covers an area of 12,000 square meters and includes monasteries belonging to the Greek Orthodox, Armenian Apostolic, and Roman Catholic churches. The Armenian monastery dominates the entrance to the church on Manger Square. The Greek Orthodox Patriarchate of Jerusalem is in charge of maintenance for the church itself.
Door of Humility
The entrance to the narthex is through a low door called the Door of Humility. It’s only four feet tall and two feet wide, and forces all who enter the church to bow and approach the birthplace of Christ in humility.
Armenian Door
In the narthex is the Armenian door, which was a gift to the church from Armenian King Hethum I in 1227. It’s made of walnut and is decorated with Armenian khachkar crosses.
Nave of the Church of the Nativity
The nave is topped by a roof consisting of wooden beams dating between the 12th through 19th centuries. There are 44 columns separating the nave from two aisles. 33 columns were painted in the 12th century with images of saints.
On the walls above the columns are the remains of golden Byzantine mosaics, completed between 1165 and 1169. They once covered over 2,000 square meters and decorated both sides of the nave. Many sections have been lost to different factors over the centuries, and only 125 square meters survive today.
Sections of the original floors are still intact. If you look down beneath a few sections of the floorboards that have been opened up, you’ll see the beautiful Roman mosaics dating back to Constantine’s church.
Chancel of the Church of the Nativity
During our visits, before entering the birthplace of Jesus, we were directed to wait in the chancel. We were able to see the Church of the Nativity from a unique perspective. We could also admire some of its treasures up close, such as the iconostasis, throne, and pulpit.
The iconostasis was under restoration and completely covered on our first visit, but I was able to see the beautiful woodwork on my second visit a few years later. The present iconostasis dates back to 1764.
Grotto of the Nativity
After waiting for sometimes several hours, pilgrims can enter the Grotto of the Nativity via a stairway in the south transept. The grotto is underneath the altar of the church. Typically, pilgrims only have a few seconds to visit. You aren’t allowed to take any photos, and if anyone takes too long, a priest will likely hurry them out.
The Grotto of the Nativity measures about 12 x 3 meters. At one end is the Altar of the Nativity. It’s controlled by the Greek Orthodox and Armenian Apostolic churches. Under the altar is a niche with a 14-pointed silver star indicating the exact birthplace of Jesus. It was installed by the Catholics in 1717, removed allegedly by the Greeks in 1847, and replaced by the Ottoman government in 1853. A hole in the middle of the star allows pilgrims to reach down and touch the stone the Virgin Mary laid on to give birth to Jesus.
The Roman Catholic church controls the Grotto of the Manger, which is where the Virgin Mary laid down the newborn baby Jesus. There’s an altar dedicated to the Adoration of the Magi.
After having a moment to experience the Grotto of the Nativity, pilgrims exit up the other stairway to the north transept of the church.
Prayer Service in the Grotto of the Nativity
On my first visit, I spent maybe 15 seconds inside the Grotto of the Nativity. On my second visit, I was much more fortunate. Because the church wasn’t full, we were able to spend several minutes inside for a special prayer service led by our guide, Archbishop Aristovoulos of Madaba.
Greek Orthodox Monastery
Next, we walked out from the doors of south transept to the Greek Orthodox Courtyard. This is where the Greek Orthodox monastery is located. It’s administered by the Greek Orthodox Patriarchate of Jerusalem.
Stairs lead down into the Greek Orthodox crypt underneath the church. The crypt contains a cave with the bones of infants killed by Herod on display.
Other sections of the crypt contain several tombs covered by stones as well as loose bones. There’s also the tomb of a saint but I don’t remember who. Finally, if you look closely, you’ll notice crosses carved into the walls by Crusaders and pilgrims over the centuries.
Church of St. Catherine
We walked back into the Church of the Nativity to exit the complex through the cloister of the Franciscan Courtyard. The cloister dates back to the Crusader period and was restored in 1948 by Italian architect Antonio Barluzzi (1884-1960). The center of the courtyard features a pillar topped by a statue of St. Hieronymus. The entrance to the Church of St. Catherine is behind it.
The Neo-Gothic Church of St. Catherine is where the Latin Patriarch of Jerusalem celebrates Midnight Mass on Christmas Eve. It was first mentioned in the 15th century but took its current form in the 19th century. Unfortunately, the church was closed but I was able to peek in through a gate.
Near the exit to the complex, there’s an impressive sculpture of St. George slaying the dragon.
Mosque of Omar
The Mosque of Omar, the only mosque in the Old City of Bethlehem, sits on Manger Square opposite the Church of the Nativity. It was built in 1860 on land donated by the Greek Orthodox Patriarchate of Jerusalem. We didn’t have a chance to get up close but we could see the minaret.
Rachel’s Tomb
On our way out of Bethlehem, we passed an ugly wall surrounding Rachel’s Tomb. The tomb is sacred to Jews, Christians, and Muslims, and considered the third holiest site in Judaism. Rachel is said to have died there during childbirth. The wall was built in 1996, effectively separating it from Bethlehem. Access for visitors is only available if coming from Jerusalem. It’s open daily except Saturdays.
Shopping in Bethlehem
If you’re on a pilgrimage or guided tour, there’s a 99.9% chance you’ll be taken to an overpriced souvenir shop.
Kings Souvenir
On our first trip, we had some time to kill because the Israelis closed the checkpoint to Jerusalem. Because of this, our guide decided to take us to Kings Souvenir, a huge souvenir shop with overpriced goods. There were some impressive pieces in the collection, including hand-carved nativity scenes made of olive wood. They ranged in price from the hundreds to up to US$40,000!
Good Shepherd’s Store
On my second visit, we stopped at Good Shepherd’s Store. It’s another souvenir shop with more of the same. Prices are still quite high but I was able to bargain for some discounts on a few trinkets.
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