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The Harbiye Military Museum (Harbiye Askeri Müzesi) in Istanbul is one of the finest of its kind in the world. It’s located in the Harbiye area of Şişli, about a 15 minute walk north of Taksim Square.
History of the Harbiye Military Museum
The Harbiye Military Museum was originally housed in the Byzantine church of Hagia Eirini, inside the First Courtyard of Topkapi Palace. In 1950, it moved to the First Army Headquarters building near Taksim Square. On February 10, 1993, the museum finally opened in its current location, the Mekteb-i Harbiye building, which was built in 1841 to educate Ottoman military officers and operated until 1936.
The museum boasts a collection of over 65,000 items, of which only 5,000 or so are on display at any one time. They cover Turkish history from its beginnings in Central Asia to the modern Turkish Republic. While it’s called a military museum, it also contains several important historical artifacts. It’s worth visiting even if you aren’t strictly interested in Ottoman and Turkish military history.
Visiting the Harbiye Military Museum
The museum is open daily except Mondays from 9am to 4:30pm. General admission for foreigners is 200₺ (as of June 2023). Almost all of the information is translated to English. Try to visit at 3pm or 4pm when you can see a concert by the Mehter Band, the world’s oldest military band. Give yourself at least a couple hours to fully enjoy your visit. It can be quite overwhelming at times but it’s well worth your time. Also, don’t expect all sections of the museum to be open.
Keep in Mind…
There’s a great deal of Turkish propaganda on controversial issues such as the Turkish Invasion of Cyprus and the Armenian Genocide. They obviously show the Turkish point of view on these issues. Keep in mind that many interpretations are heavily biased and don’t necessarily represent historical fact.
Organization of this Post
The collection of the Harbiye Military Museum is spread out over two floors. This post follows the suggested path through the museum. It’s in chronological order with the exception of the temporary exhibitions and the outdoor exhibition at the entrance.
Entrance to the Harbiye Military Museum
Once inside the entrance, there’s a large lobby with a gift shop. It contains a scale model of the Mekteb-i Harbiye complex, which houses the museum. It was built in 1841 to educate Ottoman military officers and operated until 1936.
At the far end of the hall is a taste of what’s to come at the Harbiye Military Museum. A mannequin of an armored Ottoman soldier as well as display case full of Ottoman weapons and armor sits next to the first exhibition halls.
Battle of Sakarya (Temporary Exhibition)
During my most recent visit to the Harbiye Military Museum in May 2022, the temporary exhibition hall commemorated the 100th anniversary of the Battle of Sakarya. The battle took place during the Greco-Turkish War from August 23 to September 13, 1921, near the city of Polatlı. It pitted the forces of Greece against the Turkish National Movement.
The Turkish forces, led by Mustafa Kemal (1881-1923) (the future Atatürk), halted the advance of the Greek army, led by General Anastasios Papoulas (1857-1935) and Prince Andrew (1882-1944), the father of Prince Philip, Duke of Edinburgh (1921-2021). The battle was a turning point in the Turkish War of Independence, rallying the Turkish cause and starting a Greek retreat that would see their withdrawal from Asia Minor a year later.
Several artifacts from the battle are on display, including field equipment, uniforms, and weapons, as well as many photos. All the information was in Turkish.
Foundation of the Turkish Army Hall
The permanent collection of the Harbiye Military Museum starts with the Foundation of the Turkish Army Hall (Türk Ordusu Kuruluş Salonu). It includes the origins of Turkic peoples along with a “Turkish Family Tree” and a map of important Turkish battles.
The hall continues with a profile of different Turkic cultures, including the Huns and Uyghurs. A bust of Attila the Hun (406-453) and a mannequin of a Hun soldier add to the profiles.
The exhibit contains a comparison of the Göktürk and the Uyghur alphabets, which are two ancient Turkic alphabets. It finishes with with a small display of swords and archery equipment, both of which were very important to Central Asian Turkish culture.
Seljuk Hall
After passing through the Foundation of the Turkish Army Hall, next is the Seljuk Hall (Selçuklu Salonu). It covers the rise of the Seljuks in Anatolia, including their military and cultural contributions. Portraits of Seljuk sultans line one of the walls.
Battle of Manzikert
The main focus of the Seljuk hall is the Battle of Manzikert, which took place on August 26, 1071. Sultan Alp Arslan (1029-1072) defeated Byzantine forces led by Emperor Romanos IV Diogenes (1030-1072), paving the way for Turkish settlement in Anatolia. It was one of the most important battles in history and completely changed the fate of the region.
Other Battles
Another important battle highlighted in the Seljuk Hall is the Battle of Dandanaqan. On May 23, 1040, the Seljuks defeated the Ghaznavid Empire near Merv in modern-day Turkmenistan. This led to the establishment of the Great Seljuk Empire a short time later.
The Battle of Myriokephalon saw Byzantine Emperor Manuel I Komnenos (1118-1180) make an unsuccessful attempt to recover Anatolia from the Seljuks under Sultan Kılıç Arslan II (d. 1192) on September 17, 1176.
To learn about more battles and Seljuk expansion, there’s a wonderful interactive screen. It allows visitors to follow a timeline of the Seljuk Empire and their territory gains across the region.
Seljuk Contributions
The Seljuks made significant contributions in science, philosophy, and art. These are all highlighted in paintings as well as samples of beautiful 13th century tiles excavated from Kubadabad Palace in Beyşehir.
Turkish Language
Also covered is the decree by Karamanoğlu Mehmed Bey on May 13, 1277. He was a devotee of the Turkish language and declared that nobody in the palace or any member of the imperial council was allowed to speak any language other than Turkish.
Great Turkish States Introduction Area
After the Seljuk Hall is the Great Turkish States Introduction Area (Büyük Türk Devletleri Tanıtım Alanı). It’s an outdoor courtyard containing the busts of great leaders from different Turkish cultures. Mustafa Kemal Atatürk (1881-1938) is in the center.
Ottoman State Establishment Hall
The Harbiye Military Museum continues with the Ottoman State Establishment Hall (Osmanlı Devleti Kuruluş Salonu). It covers the origins of the Ottoman Empire. Portraits of the first six Ottoman sultans line the back wall with their tughras sitting above.
In the center of the room is the standard carried into the Battle of Kosovo on June 15, 1389, which saw the invading Ottomans fight against Serbian troops. Both leaders, Ottoman Sultan Murad I and Serbian Prince Lazar Hrebeljanović, died on the battlefield. Both armies were also wiped out.
The oldest Ottoman artifact in the museum is in the Ottoman State Establishment Hall. It’s a sword belonging to Köse Mihal (d. 1340). It dates back to the late 13th or early 14th century and was confirmed on December 5, 2020. Köse Mihal was a contemporary and close friend of Osman I, the founder of the Ottoman Empire. He was originally an ethnic Greek Byzantine governor who became the first significant Christian leader to become an Ottoman subject. He converted to Islam sometime between 1304 and 1313, played a significant role in the creation of the Ottoman state, and participated in the Siege of Bursa.
Previously, the oldest artifact in the Harbiye Military Museum was thought to be the helmet of Orhan, the son of Osman I and the second Ottoman sultan.
Other important artifacts on display include a 14th century chain mail shirt and a Koran dated March 25, 1289. Both items belonged to Ghazi Evrenos Bey (d. 1417). He was one of the most successful Ottoman military commanders in history and conquered several cities.
Sultan Mehmed II Corner
In a corridor before the next section is a corner dedicated to Sultan Mehmed the Conqueror. The Sultan Mehmed II Corner (Fatih Köşesi) depicts the Sultan flanked by janissaries and his advisor, Akşemseddin (1389-1459), as they enter Constantinople from Edirnekapı in 1453. The rest of the corridor contains portraits of successive Ottoman sultans.
Conquest of Istanbul Hall
The Conquest of Istanbul Hall (İstanbul’un Fethi Salonu) is the next section of the museum. It places a great emphasis on the Fall of Constantinople. The hall contains a huge diorama depicting the Ottoman army breaching the Theodosian Walls of Constantinople on May 29, 1453.
There are a number of maps and models describing how the Ottomans managed to take the city. They include a map of Byzantine Constantinople before the Ottoman conquest as well as a model of Rumeli Fortress, which Mehmed the Conqueror built on the Bosporus in 1452 to prepare for his attack on the city.
Personally, the most interesting artifact in this section is the chain the Byzantines placed at the entrance of the Golden Horn to keep ships from entering. It was presented quite differently on my two visits to the museum in 2012 and 2022. There’s also a model showing how the Ottomans transported their ships over land behind the Genoese colony of Galata to place them in the Golden Horn.
Finally, another artifact of note is a flag labeled as Byzantine from the 15th century. I’m obviously no expert but I have serious doubts it’s Byzantine. It looks more like a 19th century Greek flag because it contains a blue cross with an image of St. George on a white horse slaying a dragon.
Ottoman Rising Period Hall
The final Ottoman section is the Ottoman Rising Period Hall (Osmanlı Devleti Yükselme Dönemi Salonu). It covers the rise of the Ottoman Empire in the 16th century.
One of the most important battles in Ottoman history, the Battle of Mohács, takes center stage in this section. It occurred on August 29, 1526, between the Kingdom of Hungary, led by King Lajos II, and the Ottoman Empire, led by Süleyman the Magnificent. The Hungarian king died in battle and it led to end of Hungarian independence until after World War I.
Artifacts on display include weapons and defensive equipment as well as swords and sheaths belonging to Ottoman sultans during this successful period in Ottoman history.
Weapons Collection at the Harbiye Military Museum
Countless weapons belonging to both the Ottomans and several other nations make up the weapons collection of the Harbiye Military Museum.
Ground Floor Corridor Exhibition Area
The collection begins in the Ground Floor Corridor Exhibition Area. It runs along a long corridor opening onto the main rooms of the weapons collection. Along with portraits of Ottoman sultans, it contains cutting weapons, standard finals, axes, Circassian daggers, European helmets, gold plated objects, firearms equipment, artillery equipment, and more.
One item that caught my eye was a silver-plated rifle with an interesting story. Sultan Mahmud II was inspecting a military barracks while under disguise. The guard failed to recognize the Sultan and attempted to hit him with the butt of the rifle. The Sultan rewarded the guard for his attention to duty by having the rifle plated with silver.
Cutting Weapons
The rooms of the weapons collection start with the Cutting Weapons Hall (Kesici Silahlar Salonu). It’s made up of two rooms displaying daggers, swords, and other cutting weapons from both Islamic and European nations. The oldest Islamic weapon on display dates back to the 12th century.
Defense Weapons Hall
The Defense Weapons Hall (Savunma Silahları Salonu) is housed in two rooms. The first room contains a rich collection of European helmets. The oldest helmets date back to the 14th century. It’s easy to see the evolution of helmets throughout the years, from closed helmets being replaced by open-faced helmets.
The Islamic defense weapons in the second room cover a period from the 14th century to the late 18th century. They include helmets, chain mail, shields, knee plates, and more.
Some of the pieces that caught my eye include two chain mail shirts belonging to Islamic rulers. One belonged to Shirvanshah Khalilullah I (r. 1418-1464) while the other was owned by Aq Qoyunlu Sultan Ya’qub (r. 1479-1490). There are also a few African shields made out of animals, including crocodile skins and tortoise shells.
Firearms Hall
The Firearms Hall (Ateşli Silahlar Salonu) takes up two rooms. They display firearms with matchlock, flintlock, caplock and pin mechanisms. The first room includes guns made in Europe and the United States. They range from the 16th to 20th centuries.
The second room contains several beautiful Ottoman rifles, many with ornate decorations adorning the butts and barrels. Among some of the more interesting pieces are cane rifles.
There’s also a pistol set belonging to Ottoman General Nuri Killigil (1889-1949), who served in Caucasia, Iran, and Libya during World War I. Some of the pistol parts were completed in Istanbul while the rest were completed in Poland.
Cannon Models Hall
At the end of the hallway is the Cannon Models Hall (Top Maketleri Salonu). It includes model cannons made of wood, bronze, iron, and brass.
Across from the models is Memento of Bravery Cannon (Hatıra-i Celadet Topu). It was displayed at Beyazıt Square to raise money for the families of the soldiers killed during the Gallipoli Campaign in 1915. Enver Pasha (1881-1922) was at the unveiling ceremony.
Archery and Cavalry Hall
The final section of the weapons collection at the Harbiye Military Museum I was able to visit was the Archery and Cavalry Hall (Atıcılık ve Binicilik Salonu). The archery section includes Ottoman bows, arrows, cases, targets, and wrist protectors dating from the 16th to 19th centuries.
The cavalry section contains saddles, blankets, whips, spurs, stirrups, horseshoes, and other items related to riding. There’s also a model of the Selimiye Barracks, located in the Selimiye neighborhood on the Asian side.
Atatürk’s Classroom
A room in the middle of the weapons collection displays a replica military academy classroom from the early 20th century. The focus is on Mustafa Kemal Atatürk, who studied in the building between 1899 and 1905. He graduated from the War Academy as a lieutenant in 1902 and from the War College as a staff captain in 1905. The room depicts Atatürk in a class sometime between 1903 and 1905.
Each student has a nameplate representing a classmate of Atatürk. The display cases in the room contain photos as well as learning materials such as books, maps, and supplies.
Ground Floor Galleries Closed to the Public
Further sections on the ground floor of the Harbiye Military Museum include the Artillery Hall (Top Teşhir Salonu); Mehter Band Instruments Hall (Mehter Enstrümanları Salonu); Uniforms Hall (Askerî Kıyafetler Salonu); and the Flags and Standards Hall (Sancaklar ve Bayraklar Salonu). For some reason, all of those sections were closed to the public on both of my visits to the museum 10 years apart.
Constitutional Period
After visiting the weapons collection, the Harbiye Military Museum shifts upstairs to the first floor. The First Floor Corridor Exhibition Area opens to several rooms, starting with the Constitutional Period of the Ottoman Empire and continuing in chronological order to World War I and the Turkish War of Independence.
Mahmud Şevket Pasha Hall
First is the Mahmud Şevket Pasha Hall (Mahmut Şevket Paşa Salonu). It focuses on the assassination of Grand Vizier Mahmud Şevket Pasha (1856-1913) on June 11, 1913.
Sitting in the center of the room is the car in which Mahmud Şevket Pasha was assassinated. He was riding along the Divan Yolu on his way to the Sublime Porte. The windows still show the bullet holes.
Mahmud Şevket Pasha was the last independent personality in the Ottoman Empire. The power of the Sultan had diminished greatly before he was killed, and the government soon after shifted to a Turkish nationalist dictatorship which lasted until the end of World War I.
The uniform of Captain Hilmi Bey, who was killed chasing after the assassins, is on display along with the other artifacts related to the murder.
Constitutional Period Hall
The next room is the Constitutional Period Hall (Meşrutiyet Dönemi Salonu). It contains items related to the Ottoman Empire before World War I.
Some of the most interesting items on display include desks used by Sultan Abdülhamid II and Enver Pasha (1881-1922). There’s also a marshal coat belonging to Ahmed Tevfik Pasha (1845-1936), who served three terms as Grand Vizier. In fact, he was the last Grand Vizier of the Ottoman Empire.
Further along in another room are gifts from Emperor Franz Josef I of Austria. They were presented to Abdülhamid II on the occasion of his 25th anniversary on the throne. 19th century officer’s caps from Romania as well as Austrian and Prussian headgear are displayed in the same room.
The Ottoman Empire and World War I
The next section on the first floor focuses on the role of the Ottoman Empire during World War I.
World War I Hall
The first rooms belong to the World War I Hall (Birinci Dünya Savaşı Salonu). It has a wealth of artifacts including uniforms, medals, weapons, flags, and other items.
Items cover all fronts of the war in which the Ottoman Empire fought. There are items left over from the battlefield as well as items captured from opposing forces.
One display case is dedicated to Enver Pasha (1881-1922), the Ottoman Minister of War during World War I. It hold a few of his uniforms, rifles, and personal items.
Battle of Dardanelles Hall
Special attention is given to the Gallipoli Campaign in the Battle of Dardanelles Hall (Çanakkale Savaşları Salonu). The campaign was a defining moment in Turkish history and the accomplishments and bravery of the Ottoman forces will be etched in the country’s collective memory for ages to come.
The First Floor Corridor Exhibition Area and one room contains several materials picked up from the battlefield. Tools, barbed wire, buttons, canteens, unexploded grenades, and even jawbones of fallen soldiers are on display.
Flags belonging to ANZAC forces as well as a hat used by an ANZAC soldier are also showcased. One of the cases includes an Ottoman flag returned to Turkey by the government of New Zealand in 1954.
A model of the battlefields shows how rugged the terrain was during the war. There are also personal items belonging to Ahmet Ragıp Akyavaş (1890-1969), a Turkish veteran of the Gallipoli Campaign.
Another room dedicated to the Dardanelles includes a diorama of a battlefield as well as items used by Ottoman soldiers.
There are also several items captured from foreign forces. Many items belonging to British and French soldiers are among them. One British soldier’s hat even contains the signature of Mustafa Kemal Atatürk (1881-1938).
Armenian Question with Documents Hall
The final section dealing with the World War I period in the Harbiye Military Museum is the Armenian Question with Documents Hall (Belgelerle Ermeni Sorunu Salonu). It covers the Turkish perspective of the Armenian genocide, a dark and shameful event in human history.
Obviously, the documents and photos presented in the exhibit try to persuade visitors that the Armenian genocide wasn’t an Ottoman government policy, but was in self-defense and perpetrated by murderous Armenians themselves. They include documents such as a list of Armenians appointed as translators in the Ottoman Army and photos showing purported atrocities committed against Turks, including massacres of women and children.
Of great historic value is the blood-stained shirt worn by Talat Pasha (1874-1921) when he was assassinated by Soghomon Tehlirian (1896-1960) in Berlin on March 15, 1921. Talat Pasha was a former Grand Vizier and one of the perpetrators of the Armenian genocide and other atrocities. As Minister of the Interior, he issued the orders for mass deportations of Armenians, Assyrians, and Greeks, as well as the Turkification and deportation of Kurds. A few items he owned are displayed next to his shirt.
Turkish War of Independence
The final sections of the first floor of the Harbiye Military Museum focus on the military during the Turkish War of Independence and the foundation of the Turkish Republic.
War of Independence Hall
Exhibits begin with the War of Independence Hall (Kurtuluş Savaşı Salonu). First, in the First Floor Corridor Exhibition Area is a display case featuring items captured from the headquarters of the Greek Army commander General Nikolaos Trikoupis (1868-1956). One of the items includes the flag that flew over Smyrna (now Izmir) when it was occupied by the Greek Army.
A special section dedicated to Marshall Fevzi Çakmak (1876-1950) makes up an important part of the War of Independence Hall. It includes a mannequin of Çakmak at his desk. His personal items are exhibited as well.
The uniform of Demirci Mehmet Efe (1883-1961), a village hero who fought against Greek forces during the Turkish War of Independence, is included in another display.
Other items include Greek flags, swords, and more items captured from the Greek army throughout the war.
Great Offensive
A scene depicting Mustafa Kemal Atatürk (1881-1938), the founder of the Turkish Republic, meeting with his men to plan the Great Offensive, is one of the highlights of the War of Independence Hall. The offensive resulted in the expulsion of Greek troops from Anatolia. Atatürk, the Commander in Chief, is sitting on the left front side. The other men are Western Front Chief of Staff Brigadier General Asım Gündüz (1880-1970) (left rear); Staff Captain Ali Ögel (1886-1973) (right rear); and Commander of the Western Front Major General İsmet İnönü (1884-1973) (right front).
Items belonging to Asım Gündüz are on display in an earlier section. They include two Walther pistols given to him by the German government in 1939 to mark the 50th birthday of Adolf Hitler.
The Military of the Turkish Republic
The next galleries at the Harbiye Military Museum move on to the military of the Turkish Republic, from its foundation to the present.
Gifts from Foreign Dignitaries
After walking down a long corridor lined with paintings, there’s a room filled with gifts presented by foreign dignitaries. They include many rare weapons, such as cane rifles, revolvers, and jewel encrusted swords.
Chiefs of the General Staff
The Harbiye Military Museum continues with the Chiefs of the General Staff Hall (Genelkurmay Başkanları Salonu). It honors each and every Chief of the General Staff, or commander-in-chief, of the Turkish Armed Forces.
Uniforms, awards, photos, weapons, and gifts presented to the generals are on display. In addition, there’s a short biography of each chief.
Korea and Cyprus Hall
The final gallery covering the Turkish Republic is the Korea and Cyprus Hall (Kore-Kıbrıs Salonu). It’s dedicated to Turkey’s participation in the Korean War as well as the Turkish invasion of Cyprus in 1974. Several flags, weapons, helmets, and uniforms from both wars are exhibited.
Turkish Invasion of Cyprus
Visitors should take note that the section focusing on Cyprus is heavy on Turkish propaganda. It notes the invasion as a “peace operation”, and the island continues to be divided to this day. In fact, there are many parallels between Russia’s invasion of Ukraine in 2022 and Turkey’s invasion of Cyprus in 1974.
Turkey has colonized the northern ⅓ of Cyprus and set up a puppet state, the Turkish Republic of Northern Cyprus, that is not recognized by any country on earth other than Turkey. Nicosia, the largest city and capital, is also divided.
Among the items from Turkish invasion of Cyprus are Greek flags, and photos as well as uniforms and weapons from captured soldiers. There’s also a uniform belonging to an American soldier of Greek descent who was in Cyprus in 1974.
Bloody Christmas
One section does highlight Bloody Christmas, a barbaric event that occurred mostly at the hands of Greek Cypriots. Inter-communal violence between Greek Cypriots and Turkish Cypriots broke out on December 20, 1963. On December 24, The wife and three children of Dr. Nihat İlhan (1924-2016), the chief medical officer of the Turkish Cypriot forces, were brutally murdered by nationalist Cypriots while hiding in the bathroom of their home.
In the end, around 25,000 Turkish Cypriots and 500 Greek Cypriots were displaced along with 1,200 Armenian Cypriots. 174 Greek Cypriots and 364 Turkish Cypriots were killed.
Atatürk Hall
The final two galleries I visited at the Harbiye Military Museum started on the first floor with the Atatürk Hall (Atatürk Salonu). It’s a huge room with several cases containing items and clothing belonging to Mustafa Kemal Atatürk (1881-1938), the founder of the Turkish Republic.
Items used by Atatürk other than clothing include cigarette accessories, stationary, and cutlery, among others.
A standard presented to Atatürk by the people of Izmir as well as a model of his final resting place, Anıtkabir, located in Ankara, are also displayed.
Gallery of Martyrs
Heading back down to the ground floor, visitors pass through the Gallery of Martyrs (Şehitler Galerisi) before exiting the Harbiye Military Museum. It’s a large room dedicated to all of the soldiers who lost their lives in battle from the beginning of Turkish history through the Turkish Republic.
One of the features of the gallery is the Memory Wall, which includes the names of major battles involving Turkish armies. The famous quote by Atatürk, “Peace at home, peace in the world” (“Yurtta sulh, cihanda sulh”) is written on the left side of the wall in several languages.
Finally, near the exit there are a pair of marble slabs etched with Ottoman Turkish script. The slabs list the names of Ottoman military academy graduates who were killed in action during the Gallipoli Campaign from February 17, 1915, to January 9, 1916. They were originally located at the entrance of the building when it functioned as a military academy.
Outdoor Exhibition
The outdoor exhibition of the Harbiye Military Museum has some interesting pieces. They’re displayed in the garden just inside the entrance to the complex.
Modern Weapons and War Machines
Two of the largest items include a heavy artillery gun sitting in the center of the garden as well as a Turkish fighter jet.
There’s also a Soviet-made T-26B light tank dating back to 1932. The tank was purchased in 1934 and used from 1935 to 1943.
Ottoman Cannons
Two historic weapons include a pair of 15th century bronze cannons from the Ottoman era. They were built during the reign of Mehmed the Conqueror. One of the cannons could very well have taken part in the Fall of Constantinople. The craftsmanship on the other cannon was so fine it was probably meant as a gift to the Sultan.
Archery Stone
Mixed in with the weapons is an archery stone commemorating a 654 meter record shot by Hüsameddin Ağa, the chief coffee maker for Sultan Selim III. The stone was erected in 1789 at Okmeydanı and found in two pieces. It’s kept at the Harbiye Military Museum to honor Ottoman archery.
Dining Hall of the Ottoman Military Academy
Finally, the dining hall for the former Ottoman military academy sits near the exhibition. It was erected in the beginning of the 20th century by Sultan Abdülhamid II.
