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Jardín is considered by many to be the most beautiful town in Colombia. It’s just a few hours from Medellín yet a world away.
Introduction to Jardín
Jardín is a coffee town in the lush green mountains of southwest Antioquia founded on May 23, 1863. It wasn’t mentioned until recently in many tourist guidebooks like Lonely Planet, therefore it’s still relatively “undiscovered”. Many Colombians have known about it for a long time, and I’ve seen more and more foreigners each time I visit. If you have time to visit only one town in the Antioquia department, it should be Jardín.
Finely represented as one of Colombia’s prestigious Heritage Towns (Pueblos Patrimonio), Jardín is well worth the effort to get to. However, with the long travel time from Medellín it’s not worth doing on a simple day trip. Take the time to spend a night or two and enjoy this hidden gem that won’t be hidden for much longer. It’s more than just a traditional town, and there’s plenty to see and do in the beautiful natural surroundings.
On our very first visit, we had a few transportation issues along the way and arrived three hours later than expected after being misinformed about the bus schedules, but the moment we arrived we realized this was the perfect place to spend our weekend. The only thing that could’ve made it better was a little sun.
Is Jardín the Most Beautiful Town in Colombia?
Jardín is considered by many to be the most beautiful and best preserved town in Antioquia. Throughout my travels in Antioquia and all over Colombia, I have to agree. In many cases, the town plazas in Colombia have the best preserved and most colorful colonial buildings in the entire town. Once you’ve seen the plaza, you’ve pretty much seen the town.
That’s definitely not the case with Jardín. Its proud residents have made sure that just about every building in town is kept up-to-date without losing their cultural heritage. We found evidence of this walking down side streets several blocks from the plaza, and there are a handful of important historic buildings as well. (Note: But wait! Is there competition? Read about Jericó and Barichara!)
Getting to Jardín
Transportation to Jardín is easy to find from Medellín. It’s about 3 ½ hours from there by bus. Companies like Rápido Ochoa and Transportes Suroeste serve travelers to Jardín. Shared taxis with four people are also common and rates are usually reasonable.
If coming from the south, there are two daily buses from Riosucio, usually on a traditional chiva. They take roughly three hours down a gravel road that’s very dusty and dangerous at a few points. Those buses are run by Cootransrio and leave Riosucio at 8am and 3pm daily, but on Saturdays only at 12pm. From Jardín to Riosucio, they run on the same schedule except at 2pm in the afternoon. Ask at the bus offices in either town for the most up-to-date information.
You can also go from the south via La Pintada on any bus bound for Bolombolo. Get off at the crossroads at Peñalisa and grab one of the buses bound for Jardín. That route is much smoother.
Getting Around Jardín
While Jardín is easily walkable, renting a bike is a great way to see both the town and the surrounding areas. There are lots of unpaved paths leading out of town into the countryside that make for an enjoyable ride. I can highly recommend renting a bike from Ciclo Diego. They charge very reasonable rates by the hour or by the day, and have both mountain bikes and street bikes.
Where to Stay in Jardín
Jardín has a few decent places to stay, whether you’re looking for something simple and budget-friendly or more upscale and comfortable.
Casa Passiflora
By far the best place I’ve stayed is Casa Passiflora. This upscale boutique hotel has only a handful of rooms set on a beautiful property just over a block from Plaza El Libertador.
Rooms are extremely comfortable and spotless, and have great air conditioning. Bathrooms are spacious. A delicious breakfast is included in the rate, served at Óleo Bistro, which is connected to the hotel.
The garden behind the hotel has a lovely sitting area as well as a jacuzzi that’s great to relax in before turning in for the night. Overall, we were very satisfied and can’t wait to get back there for another relaxing stay.
Hostal Famihotel Fundadores
On our very first trip to Jardín, we stayed at a small hotel run out of a house. Hostal Famihotel Fundadores is located just a few blocks from the plaza. The owner was the sweetest lady you can imagine but we weren’t too happy with the room. It was much tinier than advertised and we couldn’t fit in the bathroom. The pictures on Booking.com were much different, bigger, and more traditional rooms. Breakfast was included but we felt everything was way overpriced.
Hotel Casa Grande
On our second trip with friends, they stayed at Hotel Casa Grande. It offered simple yet comfortable rooms with WiFi. It’s located just a half block from the bus companies and a block from the plaza.
Across the street there’s a small butcher shop and the owner rents out apartments above the shop. They have a full kitchen and private bathroom. You can probably bargain him down to a fair price like we did. Otherwise, the Hotel Casa Grande is a great option.
Kantarrana Casa de Campo
If you prefer to stay outside of town in a more natural setting, Kantarrana Casa de Campo is a great option. It’s about a 10 minute drive from Jardín.
The rooms are cozy with comfortable beds and large balconies complete with hammocks. There are mosquitoes and bugs that will occasionally get into the rooms, but they don’t take away from the quality of sleep that you’ll get. The sound of the river will help put you to sleep and you’ll wake up to the birds singing in the morning.
On top of that, the staff is friendly and helpful and the breakfast is nice. If there’s a negative, there are electric showers but no hot water.
Where to Eat in Jardín
Jardín isn’t exactly a culinary paradise, but there are a few places in town worth checking out. You’ll find mostly traditional Colombian dishes.
Óleo Bistro
The best meal I’ve had in Jardín is at Óleo Bistro. It’s attached to Casa Passiflora, a small boutique hotel. Óleo has a decent selection of international and Colombian dishes, including pastas, risottos, salads, soups, fish, chicken, and meat. It’s expensive for Jardín but definitely a great meal.
I started the Genoese soup (soap genovesa), which is a tomato and roasted pepper soup drizzled with cream and garnished with basil leaves. For my main dish, I had a mushroom risotto. I washed down my meal with a coconut lemonade.
I finished off with a peach cake topped with vanilla ice cream. I didn’t care too much for the pie, but everything else was delicious.
Realismo Mágico (Permanently Closed)
Just east of Plaza El Libertador is Realismo Mágico. It’s a small place specializing in arepa and patacón dishes as well as offering vegetarian options. Prices are reasonable and service is friendly.
We started off with a chorizo plate, which was served with patacón, tomato, and fresh lemon. It was a little greasy but tasty.
For my main dish, I had a patacón topped with shrimp, avocado, and melted cheese, while my friends had an arepa with tuna and corn. The dishes were bigger than we expected and very delicious.
Las Margaritas
For traditional Colombian food, I can recommend Las Margaritas. It’s located on the plaza and also has a fixed lunch menu. I had the pollo margarita, which was chicken breast baked in parmesan cheese. Marisol had a bandeja paisa which wasn’t very traditional and was lacking a few essential items. Our meals were reasonably priced.
Giardino
If you’re craving pizza, head a block west of the plaza to Giardino. I had a decent pizza for a very nice price.
Dulces del Jardín
On the east side of town on Calle 13 is Dulces del Jardín. This sweet shop has a café and sells delicious jams, caramels, cookies, and other sweets. Many are made from exotic fruits. It’s a great place to stock up on gifts (or to satisfy your own sweet tooth).
Café Europa (Permanently Closed)
Another good little place is Café Europa, just a short walk from the plaza. They have a small menu with delicious pasta and pizza dishes at excellent prices.
Pastelatte (Permanently Closed)
Finally, there’s Pastelatte. They serve a nice selection of international dishes. They might not be perfect or exactly how you’d expect them to be, but they taste good. I had fajitas and enjoyed them.
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Plaza El Libertador
Jardín has one of the most beautiful plazas in Colombia. Plaza El Libertador is a pleasant open space and one the most well cared for plazas I’ve seen in Antioquia. It’s filled with perfectly manicured shrubs and has a fountain in the center.
Many brightly colored colonial buildings with balconies line the streets around the plaza. They’re mostly bars, restaurants, cafés, and hotels. Some booths off to the corners sell crafts and souvenirs while others sell fruit or street food.
At night, Plaza El Libertador comes alive. The many bars and cafés around the plaza put colorful chairs and tables in the center for people to sit and have drinks. Men and women on horseback ride through the streets and “park” their horses at the bars. Street vendors sell fast food while music blasts from every direction. It’s quite a scene.
Basilica of the Immaculate Conception
The Basilica of the Immaculate Conception (Basílica de la Inmaculada Concepción) dominates the plaza. It’s considered among the most impressive churches in Colombia. The first church on this spot was built with a dirt floor and straw roof in 1873. A more stable building replaced it in 1884.
Construction on the current church began in 1918 under local priest Juan Nepomuceno Barrera. It was built by Ángel José Botero, who followed blueprints drawn up by Italian-Colombian architect and priest Giovanni Buscaglione (1874-1941). The local community pitched in with workmanship and helped transport volcanic rock from the Las Peñas quarry using carts drawn by oxen.
Although unfinished, the church was consecrated in 1932 without towers and only part of the façade. It was finally completed in 1940 and was given the title of Minor Basilica on June 3, 2003.
Architecture of the Basilica of the Immaculate Conception
The Basilica of the Immaculate Conception was built in the Neo-Gothic style entirely of hand-carved stone. It takes up an area of 1,680 square meters and can be seen from the neighboring town of Andes.
The church has 128 windows and skylights and 2 bells cast in Hamburg, Germany. 32 capitals and arches are covered in 18-carat gold. The holy water font, a statue of Saint John the Baptist, 12 statues of guardian angels, the tabernacle, and pulpit are all carved out of Carrara marble. The interior is painted in turquoise, and the crosses and two towers are made of aluminum.
Priest’s House
Behind the Basilica of the Immaculate Conception is the Priest’s House (Casa Cural). It contains a finely carved wooden door and window frames.
Town Hall of Jardín
The town hall (Alcaldía) of Jardín is located at the northeast corner of the plaza. It’s a two-story colonial-style building with a central courtyard and a bust of Simón Bolívar (1783-1830).
Clara Rojas Museum
The Clara Rojas Museum (Museo Clara Rojas), located on the south side of the plaza, is worth a quick visit. It’s an original colonial house that was built by the granddaughter of one of the founders of Jardín. Admission is free, but it’s currently closed for restoration (as of July 2024).
An enthusiastic guide will take you through the rooms and explain the history of the town in about a half hour. Some of the rooms have period furniture and original ethnographic and archaeological artifacts. Another room has a huge mural depicting important people and events in the town’s history. It was painted by artist Bernardo Sánchez.
The garden and courtyard showcase the architecture of the time while another locked room displays several photos and original items and photos from the past two centuries.
Municipal Theatre
A block north of the plaza is the Municipal Theatre (Teatro Municipal). It was originally built in 1912, and rebuilt after a fire in 1945. It has been used mainly for theatrical performances, concerts, civic events, and literary events. At one time, it was also used for film screenings.
Jardín Music School Corporation
Across the street is the Jardín Music School Corporation (Corporación Escuela de Música de Jardín). It was formed in 1986 to teach music to both children and adults, and has an average of 290 students a year. There’s a youth band, youth choir, a marching band, and an orchestra.
Conceptionist Sisters Convent
A couple blocks west of the music school is the Conceptionist Sisters Cloistered Convent and Chapel (Capilla y Convento de Clausura de las Hermanas Concepcionistas). The Conceptionists arrived in Jardín from Bogotá on March 7, 1918.
The land for the convent was donated in 1920 by Misael Velásquez, whose two daughters joined the sisterhood the day the convent officially opened. The convent contains a church, pantheon, garden, and priest’s house, as well as a statue of the Virgin of Carmel brought from Spain.
The convent survives on donations as well as sales from pastries, handicrafts, and floral arrangements. It’s usually open to the public daily from 9am to 11am and 3pm to 4pm, with mass celebrated at 5pm.
Providence Chapel
A block to the south is the Providence Chapel (Capilla de la Providencia). It sits on the site of the home of Juan Bautista Velásquez (1909-1936).
Velásquez was a friar born in Jardín and a member of the Brothers Hospitallers of Saint John of God (Orden Hospitalaria de San Juan de Dios). He traveled to Spain in 1934 and joined the hospitaller communities of Córdoba, Granada, and Ciempozuelos.
Velásquez was executed in 1936 by Republican forces for his religious persuasion. He was beatified by Pope John Paul II in 1992.
Cultural Center
A block south of the plaza, connected to the garden of the Clara Rojas Museum, is the César Moisés Rojas Peláez Cultural Center (Casa de la Cultura César Moisés Rojas Peláez). It was donated to the town by Clara Rojas and her brother, César.
The building contains the Gabriel Peléaz Montoya Municipal Library (Biblioteca Municipal Gabriel Peléaz Montoya); the Antonio Roldán Betancur Auditorium (Auditorio Antonio Roldán Betancur); and the Marco A. Jaramillo History Center (Centro de Historia Marco A. Jaramillo). Dance groups, literary workshops, and handicraft workshops also use the space.
Lady Blacksmith’s Path
On the corner of Carrera 6 and Calle 13 is the Lady Blacksmith’s Path (Camino de La Herrera). It’s a scenic stone path enclosed by a natural tunnel made of greenery and dotted by cottages. At the end of the path is a trail leading to a waterfall and swimming hole.
Cable Cars in Jardín
Jardín has two cable cars on opposite ends of town. One is electric and the other is operated by hand.
Jardín Cable Car (Temporarily Closed)
A short walk north of Plaza El Libertador is a cable car that takes passengers up to a viewpoint and a statue of Christ on a hill across the way. Unfortunately, the cable car stopped running in 2017 but there are plans to repair it (as of July 2024).
If you want to get to the statue, you can follow a path leading out of town. It’s obviously not as exciting as the cable car, but it’s worth heading up for the views of town. As for the cable car and its station, it has become unsafe and attracting unsavory people. It’s been vandalized with graffiti and there’s broken glass everywhere. Locals are asking for it to be disassembled.
La Garrucha
On the other side of town is another cable car, La Garrucha, which crosses a deep ravine. La Garrucha, which used to transport coffee and plantains, now lifts people to a high viewpoint across the way complete with a café. Round-trip rides cost COP$10,000 (as of January 2024).
The café serves empanadas and drinks, sometimes until after midnight. The cable car runs until the café closes for the night. It’s a very romantic setting with incredible views of the town and surrounding countryside.
Other Activities in Jardín
For visitors with extra time to spend, there are several opportunities to explore the natural areas around Jardín, including ecological tours and trails, nature preserves, waterfalls, ravines, caves, and traditional fincas (plantations). Just like the rest of the region, the scenery is spectacular.
