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Samanpazarı is the neighborhood running downhill south of Ankara Castle in Ankara, Turkey. It’s home to a handful of museums, historic buildings, and shops selling crafts and antiques. Samanpazarı is a good place to explore after visiting the castle.
Çukurhan
Directly in front of the Finger Gate to Ankara Castle is Çukurhan. This beautiful caravanserai was originally built in the late 16th or early 17th century. It was used to sell a wide range of goods such as fruits, vegetables, grains, and mohair.
In 1950, the building was seriously damaged by fire. It was repaired but abandoned in the late 20th century. After being placed on the World Monuments Fund’s list of 100 most endangered sites, it was restored between October 2007 and May 2010. It now houses a luxury hotel, the Divan Çukurhan.
Çengelhan
To the left of Çukurhan is Çengelhan, which houses the Ankara branch of the Rahmi M. Koç Museum. It was built between 1522 and 1523 by Rüstem Pasha (c. 1505-1561), a Grand Vizier and son-in-law of Süleyman the Magnificent.
When it was built, Çengelhan was regarded as one of the finest caravanserais in the world. It was used well into the 20th century to sell textiles, rope, fruits and vegetables, mohair, rawhide, wool, hardware, grains, and other goods.
Pilavoğlu Han
Across the street from Çengelhan is Pilavoğlu Han, which is a caravanserai built in the late 16th or early 17th century. It was repaired many times over the years and has lost most of its original architectural features.
Pilavoğlu Han was a commercial center much like the first two buildings in this entry. In the final years of the Ottoman Empire and the early years of the Turkish Republic, it was used as a prison for women and juveniles. It was later used by homeless squatters until commercial activities returned near the end of the 20th century.
Today, it hosts the Pilavoğlu Han Bazaar (Pilavoğlu Han Çarşısı), which consists of handicraft shops, cafés, souvenir shops, and offices.
Koyunpazarı Street in Samanpazarı
From there, we walked down Koyunpazarı Street past several craft and souvenir shops. There were a few alleys off the street with antique shops as well as a scenic outdoor café.
Ahi Elvan Mosque
Near the end of Koyunpazarı Street is the Ahi Elvan Mosque (Ahi Elvan Camii). It doesn’t look like much from the outside, but it was actually built in the late 14th century. The mosque was rebuilt by Sultan Mehmed I from 1413 to 1414 and has one minaret.
The mosque was closed but I was able to peek into the prayer hall, which features a beautiful wooden minbar. The 12 wooden columns holding up the roof are crowned with Doric and Corinthian capitals recycled from earlier buildings.
Aslanhane Mosque
Finally, a block east of Koyunpazarı Street is the Aslanhane Mosque (Aslanhane Camii), also known as the Ahi Şerafeddin Mosque (Ahi Şerafeddin Camii). It was completed in 1290 and is one of the oldest mosques in Ankara. The Aslanhane Mosque is included in the UNESCO World Heritage listing for the Wooden Hypostyle Mosques of Medieval Anatolia.
The mosque was built by two Ahi leaders, Hüsamettin and Hasaneddin, and the architect was Ebubekir Mehmed. In 1330, it was repaired by Ahi Şerafeddin, whose tomb faces the mosque.
The Aslanhane Mosque, which is usually closed outside of prayer times, covers an area of 400 square meters (4,300 square feet). There’s one minaret made of brick with inlaid tiles.
There are three entrance portals, and it’s easy to spot recycled pieces of ancient Roman buildings used in its construction. Like the Ahi Elvan Mosque, the prayer hall has 24 wooden columns supporting the roof. The mihrab is decorated with Seljuk tiles.
