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There are a few points of interest outside the historic core of Edirne, Turkey. Most are within a 15 or 20 minute walking distance.
St. George Bulgarian Orthodox Church
First, a short walk east of the Selimiye Mosque is St. George Bulgarian Orthodox Church (Sveti Georgi / Ayayorgi Kilisesi). It was built with the permission of Sultan Abdül Hamid II and was consecrated on May 9, 1880. The church was closed after the First Balkan War and reopened in the 1940s. Due to years of neglect, it fell into disrepair until it was renovated by the Turkish General Directorate of Foundations and Bulgaria. It reopened in 2004.
St. George Bulgarian Orthodox Church is open to worship and also serves as a museum. It’s typically open to visitors on Mondays and Tuesdays from 9am to 5pm, and there’s a museum on the upper floor. Unfortunately, it was closed on the day we walked by.
Fevzi Pasha Primary School
On the way to the church, we got a good look at a typical Edirne neighborhood and passed an attractive building.
The former Fevzi Pasha Primary School (Fevzi Paşa İlkokullu) was built in 1906 for a Greek association after a donation by a wealthy local Greek, Hacı Yorgi. The building was converted to a primary school in 1923, after the population exchange between Greece and Turkey. The Fevzi Pasha Primary School closed in 2019.
Defterdar Mustafa Pasha Mosque
Heading southeast along Talat Pasha Avenue are a few Ottoman landmarks. The first is the Defterdar Mustafa Pasha Mosque (Defterdar Mustafa Paşa Camii). It was built in 1576 by Mimar Sinan (1490-1588). The mosque was commissioned by a Mustafa Pasha, but it’s not known exactly who he was other than a treasurer. The original dome of the mosque was destroyed during an earthquake in 1752. The mosque was closed when I walked by.
Ayşe Kadın Mosque
Just a few steps away is the Ayşe Kadın Mosque (Ayşe Kadın Camii). It was built by Ayşe Hatun (b. 1414), the daughter of Sultan Mehmed I, between 1468 and 1469. The architect may have been Mimar Hayruddin, who was also responsible for the Bayezid II Complex. The mosque is only open during prayers. Ayşe Hatun is buried in the Green Tomb in Bursa along with her father.
Ekmekçizade Ahmed Pasha Caravanserai
Down the stairs from the Ayşe Kadın Mosque is the Ekmekçizade Ahmed Pasha Caravanserai (Ekmekçizade Ahmed Paşa Kervansarayı). It was built in 1609 by Ekmekçizade Ahmed Pasha, a treasurer under Sultan Ahmed I. The architect was Sedefkar Mehmed Ağa (1540-1617), who also designed the Blue Mosque. Local architect Hacı Şaban assisted on the project.
Ekmekçizade Ahmed Pasha Caravanserai stands on the site of an older caravanserai built by Ayşe Hatun. It had a huge courtyard with two fountains, four stables, and several guest rooms. It was undergoing restoration when I visited, and I look forward to seeing the results on my next trip to Edirne.
Edirne High School
Walking west from the caravanserai along Eski Istanbul Road is Edirne High School (Edirne Lisesi). It was founded in 1857 by Sultan Abdülmecid I and is one of the oldest high schools in Turkey. In fact, it’s regarded as the first Western high school in the Ottoman Empire.
Edirne High School closed during the First Balkan War and served as a hospital. The school colors, red and yellow, come from this period, and represent red blood smeared on the yellow walls. The school reopened after the foundation of the Turkish Republic.
Tomb of Koyun Baba
Across from the school is the tomb of Koyun Baba (Koyun Baba Türbesi). He was a Sufi of the Naqshbandi order and died in 1618.
SS Constantine and Helen Bulgarian Orthodox Church
Finally, about a kilometer south of the Ekmekçizade Ahmed Pasha Caravanserai is the SS Constantine and Helen Bulgarian Orthodox Church (Sveti Konstantin-Elena Kilisesi). It was built in 1869 in just seven months. The church was abandoned after the First Balkan War and fell into disrepair.
In 2008, the church was renovated with help from the Bulgarian government and reopened to worship. The iconostasis was built based on photographs from the 1930s. The church yard is typically open daily except Mondays from 9am to 5pm. You can ask a caretaker for permission to enter the church itself. Unfortunately, I visited too early in the day.
